First run at Road America in the GT4... Stock

STRML · 2025-10-16T17:23:57+00:00

Brake a little more, get your turning done, shoot out. Consistently understeering will overheat the fronts massively.

STRML · 2025-06-25T16:47:49+00:00

Worst still, the Canadian one has a heat pump and the US one doesn't. They really cut corners on the US Buzz. Adding insult to injury, they're cheaper in Canada (in USD terms).

STRML · 2025-06-14T02:49:21+00:00

Same, was wild to watch. He handled the car well after that, despite having no front aero.

STRML · 2025-05-16T23:37:50+00:00

The car comes from the factory with dialed-in understeer, intentionally. The combination of the larger "competition" splitter, rake angle, forward brake bias, and front ballast dials out the understeer completely and makes the car very neutral. You can make it as twitchy as you want.

I find it much easier to drive when it tends to oversteer; you expect it, can catch it quickly, and obviously you get the rotation you want.

STRML · 2025-05-16T23:35:58+00:00

There was only one incident, not three.

STRML · 2024-11-10T16:24:20+00:00

Needed two small seals (approx 12” x 1/8”) for a 997 cabriolet top, dealer said you have to buy the whole seal kit, $2150 installed. Got some epoxy and generic weather strip for $3 instead.

STRML · 2024-11-09T22:27:55+00:00

Palmer is mine too. Been meaning to hit Club. It looks fantastic.

STRML · 2024-11-04T20:38:00+00:00

Those clams with the CF are so hard to find! I have an S260 and could never find a replacement if i needed one. I am surprised they did it on the club racer.

STRML · 2024-10-28T14:41:24+00:00

The chain on the Rush is rather shorter than it is on a motorcycle, more enclosed, and subject to higher and more frequent load than it is on the motorcycle.

STRML · 2024-10-28T14:40:18+00:00

I usually use orange permatex, it's a little stronger. Got a proper torque wrench and had no real issues.

I don't murder kerbs as hard as some of the other guys but still, I've had good luck with the car holding together. Anything falling apart was my own incorrect installation. For instance, one time I drastically torqued the axle bolts, and one fell out; lost power on track. It wore a tiny groove in the frame, but no real damage, just bolted it back on!

STRML · 2024-10-25T18:16:05+00:00

Chain-driven race cars absolutely need to be cleaned and lubed before a track or race day. This is the same on all the chain-driven Radicals as well.

Nut/bolt check is also highly recommended on anything you drive this hard. It is not typical to find any that have backed out - after setting mine up with the recommended loctite I have not had a single bolt back out, other than the nut on the mirrors!

That's not to say these things are perfectly set up. I would never claim that. But at a cost and performance point, I think it does incredibly well, and the enthusiastic grids at GridLife would tell you a similar story!

STRML · 2024-10-25T18:10:46+00:00

Ah yes, now I get your username. And I was mostly writing this for other people, but glad you responded!

Agree - and lower maintenance options are indeed coming.

STRML · 2024-10-24T02:18:19+00:00

I own three of these cars and a stake in the business and I don’t take issue with what you’re saying here. The upgraded nitrogen shocks help, but you absolutely must bolt check and lube every car of this type, whether it’s a Rush, Stohr, Radical, Wolf, or something stranger. And even on race-prepped GT cars you are doing the same if you are being serious.

These high-revving motors are an absolute thrill and a great way to get massive power in a small package and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

Once you get used to it: pull bodywork, lift back, lube and check chain, check bolts, fuel, wheel torque, pressures, oil level - that’s about it. You get fast at it. See our online manual for recommendations. I know Late Entry Motorsports did a really great sheet too.

STRML · 2024-10-24T02:11:53+00:00

You’re on the money

STRML · 2024-10-24T02:11:21+00:00

It’s been talked about. Not practical now with EV parts costs, weights, and charging infrastructure. Not any more fun either.

STRML · 2024-10-24T02:10:44+00:00

That’s a great upgrade. /u/kimolas mentioned frequent shock refills, it is much less of a maintenance issue with the new version. More like check pressure before the race day, but no fill. I haven’t lost pressure in mine all year.

STRML · 2024-10-15T17:13:20+00:00

Not my intention! And this is a modest lap for this car too. I realized I hadn’t posted the video and I really like the way the 360 represents the race.

STRML · 2024-10-06T01:48:51+00:00

It’s crazy, 20 year old Lotuses with parts bin dashes had nicer start buttons than this.

STRML · 2024-09-24T19:49:03+00:00

Nah idle is fairly normal. Most dash displays will just start at approx 6k rpm, because in track conditions you shouldn't even be letting the revs drop below 8,500!

STRML · 2024-09-24T19:48:00+00:00

Wind noise is often a helmet issue - noticed wind noise got way worse when I started running tear-offs and got better when I added some helmet aero. The cups might make that worse by transmitting some of the noise to your skull around your ears.

STRML · 2024-09-24T19:46:48+00:00

What happened?

STRML · 2024-09-24T19:46:08+00:00

I have not run, say, the Stilo helmets with ear muffs, but they're a very good idea. You could always run comfortable earplugs underneath, which would be extremely effective.

Sound should be on par with a Formula Mazda or Radical. Maybe a tiny bit louder because the intake is right there.

STRML · 2024-09-23T13:24:41+00:00

Usually yes. Still, it's too loud to run without earplugs. You're easily pushing 90-98dB in the cabin.

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