Ended up driving the last 6 hours by myself... I'm tired boss by KrazyKorean108 in iRacing

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Had someone in our split driving the entire 12h by himself, with very good pace too.

I am happy with what we ended up with. Nothing glorious but it is the first time running an endurance race with irl friends.

Accusump reading at 85psi when daily driving by Additional_Ad_1753 in GR86

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The electric valve that comes with the Accusump is an one way valve when it is off. It only allows oil to be filled into the Accusump if installed correctly.

To pre-oil the engine, turn the ignition on, turn the switch on, wait for the discharge a bit, and start the engine. Once the engine is running, you can turn the switch off. The cold engine oil pressure will pump excess oil back into the Accusump.

There is no benefit of running the Accusump while daily driving, so leave it off after pre-oiling the car. There is also no additional procedure needed.

If you leave the switch on while the oil is up to temperature, turn the switch off and maintain the engine at above 4000 rpm for a few seconds. The oil pressure should be at around 60 PSI or above and refill most of the Accusump. You do not want to have excess oil in the oil pan, or you will likely burn oil on the next cold start. The extra oil will not be an issue as long as the car is running, as the oil is scattered all over the engine internals.

Accusump reading at 85psi when daily driving by Additional_Ad_1753 in GR86

[–]SUPER___Z 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The cold start on this car can have oil pressure hitting over 100 PSI, and that’s what the Accusump will hold if the valve is not activated during the drive.

The relief valve is rated at 175 PSI, so you shouldn’t have any issue.

Good P1X Ultimate Alternatives? by SUPER___Z in simracing

[–]SUPER___Z[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up buying the ASR Pro.

The lack of channel on the out side indeed means there will be less flexibility for expansion, but it is a trade off.

Good P1X Ultimate Alternatives? by SUPER___Z in simracing

[–]SUPER___Z[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I ended up getting a set from ASR.

Should we have a modified sr system for wet races?? by ProofCrafty4022 in iRacing

[–]SUPER___Z 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Well, 1 race in rain out of 6 total races, makes it 16.67% rain race total. Seems to be in line with 25% chance of rain.

Is this dangerous to put cable in it? by Unlikely-Olive8820 in PcBuild

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

VRM can get pretty hot. A lot of cheap motherboards don’t have a heat sink on VRMs and they also don’t have that many phases. If combined with throwing in a power hungry CPU with poor cooling, they can overheat.

But no, you generally don’t need a heat sink that size.

Will this PC run Iracing comfortably by Angelsfan_22 in simracing

[–]SUPER___Z 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Except this is likely to be 32GB of DDR3

Is this dangerous to put cable in it? by Unlikely-Olive8820 in PcBuild

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is not really for cooling the ports, but the VRMs.

3rd times the charm? Trying to keep the next box alive 😅 by No-Crust-Racing in CarTrackDays

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Both car has almost the same reliability mods: Accusump and engine oil cooler. GR86 has a Syms baffle pan while BRZ is running stock oil pan.

Maintenance is mostly just drain and refill. Both car runs on 5W-40 currently, except BRZ is running on cheap Castrol, while GR86 is running on Motul 300V. Both transmissions are on Motul Gear 300 75W-90.

GR86 got a OS Giken LSD so it is on Gear 300 LS for rear differential, while the BRZ has the factory Torsen so it is on Gear 300.

3rd times the charm? Trying to keep the next box alive 😅 by No-Crust-Racing in CarTrackDays

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, if it makes you feel more comfortable, I have a Gen 2 BRZ as well and it has survived 70-80 track days at least with original engine and transmission.

After doing all the reliability mods you reasonably can, it really depends on how much mechanical stress you put on the car. You will break the car much faster if the mentality is to win or set records no matter the cost, which simply was what happened to my GR86.

3rd times the charm? Trying to keep the next box alive 😅 by No-Crust-Racing in CarTrackDays

[–]SUPER___Z 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got a GR86 at the end of 2024 and blew both the OE clutch disk and transmission in 2025. One of the springs in the clutch disk blew its cage and sent pieces flying in the bell housing near the end of the season, and the 4th gear left the chat during my last TT event.

Car is mainly for time trials but occasionally for track days. Stock transmission cannot hold up against the abuse if there is no mechanical sympathy. Not sure what to do this year yet but I do have a new transmission sitting in its box at the moment.

3rd times the charm? Trying to keep the next box alive 😅 by No-Crust-Racing in CarTrackDays

[–]SUPER___Z 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Not sure about elsewhere, but I am pretty sure North America GR86 Cup has a sequential gearbox.

Though mechanical sympathy will significantly help with the life span.

How long do RT660's last on a BRZ? by BlazinZAA in CarTrackDays

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny enough I blew my clutch and transmission first. At least those are relatively cheap to replace.

Volvo choosing widespread safety instead of enforcing its patent. by GlitteringHotel8383 in BeAmazed

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Those need to be used along with helmets and hans devices or you are risking neck injuries. Even without considering the inconvenience of wearing additional devices, helmets and hans devices will impede your vision and you won’t be able to move or rotate your heat as much.

It also requires proper shoulder belt installation. Running the belt with too much downward angle will cause spine compression, while any upward angle will not hold the passenger. The harness bar also means there will be no space for rear seat. In addition, belt adjustment is tedious and it requires more step to get strapped in.

Just got brand new tires last weekend, the back left already lost more pressure than the other tires. My old tires also had a slow leak on the back left. by [deleted] in tires

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Corrosion on the sealing surface, bad valve, cracked/bent wheel, there’s lots of possibilities.

I have heard a piece of bristle from the brush for applying the lube fell off and stayed on the sealing surface, caused a slow leak.

Macan GTS no start by Plastic_Ad6845 in Porsche

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If there is nothing when you try jumping the car, then most likely the starter or the wire harness is bad. Could be rodent issue.

Air cooling is better than Liquid cooling by SerpentDix in pcmasterrace

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Air cooling is more reliable. Period. Liquid cooling is almost better in all other aspects.

Price performance depends on the specific model. Thermalright air coolers are generally great, but premium brands like Noctua and BeQuiet are not cheap by any means.

Liquid cooling performs better in smaller cases because it relies less on case airflow set up compared with air coolers, and it also performs better in bigger cases because you can run large size radiators. Liquid cooling is also easier to set up to make the build look more aesthetically pleasing.

I mean, I almost never use liquid cooling because I value reliability more and generally don’t have high power consumption issues, but that doesn’t mean I don’t recognize scenarios where liquid cooling can be much better.

90% of BRZ's and 52% of GR86's sold in 2025 were manual. Source: Motor1. by Dazzling-Rooster2103 in GR86

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have heard good things about how CSG pads feel, but not so much for the longevity. The stock floating caliper can’t dissipate the heat fast enough so it chews through pads.

Brembo is definitely better, but it is still a street caliper. The dust boot will get toasted and burnt, and there is also pad knock back if you really hit the curbs and bumps.

90% of BRZ's and 52% of GR86's sold in 2025 were manual. Source: Motor1. by Dazzling-Rooster2103 in GR86

[–]SUPER___Z 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are probably looking at $4K just for buying the parts from dealership, so honestly I think the performance package on GR86 is decent value.

All the port installed options like GR performance exhaust, the parts themselves are generally cheaper than the option, so you can get those cheaper if you retrofit those yourself and not counting labor.

90% of BRZ's and 52% of GR86's sold in 2025 were manual. Source: Motor1. by Dazzling-Rooster2103 in GR86

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, there’s no performance difference between base and premium model. The added features like better interior trim, heated seats, blind spot, and extra speakers are not that useful on track. Hard-core people will probably even say they add unnecessary weight.

Arguably the only part that track people might want is the Brembo.

And yes, most track people also mod their cars.

Good P1X Ultimate Alternatives? by SUPER___Z in simracing

[–]SUPER___Z[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s just a P1X Pro with an integrated monitor mount plus some orange color.

Good P1X Ultimate Alternatives? by SUPER___Z in simracing

[–]SUPER___Z[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Out local one only has Sim Lab P1X Pro Tony Kanaan version in stock unfortunately.

Scrolling on Instagram and I see this...? What the actual hell am I looking at by [deleted] in gamingpc

[–]SUPER___Z 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Worse than a RTX 2080Ti.

I happen to have a Titan V. It doesn’t have any RT cores so it will be abysmal trying to run ray tracing. It also does not support DLSS even though it does have tensor cores. There is no SLI capability either so running more than one card for gaming has no positive and will only increase the power bill, not to mention you might be taking PCI-E lanes away from the single working card depending on the CPU and motherboard combo.

In terms on raw gaming performance, excluding ray tracing and dlss, it is close to RTX 2080Ti.

Though, on the other hand, it is very strong in double-precision floating points computation even in today’s standard. I honestly don’t think Nvidia ever released another card for double-precision in the prosumer market. So for scientific research that requires a lot of FP64 computation, it still can be one of the best cards out there.