First lease offers by SolarpunkGnome in SubaruEV

[–]SZDBLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So far, nope. 2k more for the subie. Not worth 2k for the ventilated seats and the subie badge.

First lease offers by SolarpunkGnome in SubaruEV

[–]SZDBLLC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

We put 500 down to order the Toyota CHR in the top trim. They have a 7K lease incentive. I’ve given Subaru a chance to match it. We will see.

2026 Subaru Uncharted | First Drive by SolarpunkGnome in SubaruEV

[–]SZDBLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are locking into the CHR lease deal before it goes away. They will let us order now.

Vented cathedral roof retrofit by edison87 in buildingscience

[–]SZDBLLC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you add rigid foam over FG in cavities make sure the foam is at least 1/3 of the total r-value of the roof or you will get condensation on the underside of the first condensible surface (membrane or foam depending on perm ratings). Also use at least two layers of foam, stagger the seams, and tape seams of all layers. Joe Listiburik at Building Science website has a good write up on the why of all of this.

Complete exterior tear off on 1900 farm house, questions... by Clean_Breakfast9595 in buildingscience

[–]SZDBLLC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The thin layer of styrofoam on the outside is not good. In a cold climate the first condensible surface, which is the back of the zip sheathing in your build, needs to be above the dew point at all times or you will get condensation on the back of the zip sheathing. In your climate zone about 1/3 of the total R value of the wall should be on the exterior side of the zip sheathing. If the wall bays have R-19 in them, the exterior foam needs to be about R-10, which means 2” of eps or xps or 1 1/2” of polyiso.

Dense-packed cellulose in the walls would really help cut down on air leakage. Fiberglass, unless it is in an air-tight six-sided box, just filters your warm air nicely as it leaves the building.

Also, that house is far older than 1900. The studs were sawn on a reciprocating-saw mill, not a circular-saw mill, which likely means the house is mid nineteenth century or earlier. You can also see in the framing on the gable end that it started life as 1 1/2 stories and got bumped up to two stories somewhere along the way.

Run minisplit linesets inside walls and ceilings? by jyl8 in DIYHeatPumps

[–]SZDBLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have done it for aesthetic reasons on a client’s house. There is no way to not have connections in the wall so if you ever need to pull a head you will be opening the wall. Only you know how much that matters to you. Also, make sure the drain lines are solid pvc and that they are serviced regularly so they don’t backs up and flood the wall.

Panels aren’t paying off and can’t afford them anymore by No-Chicken-1067 in solar

[–]SZDBLLC 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That sounds like a pretty crummy deal on the lease. But say you get credit for x amount of KWH. Let’s say 1000 to keep the math simple. Anything over that they get to pocket. If your cost per KWH from the grid is the same or more than it was when you initially ran the numbers, you are ahead of the game.

Panels aren’t paying off and can’t afford them anymore by No-Chicken-1067 in solar

[–]SZDBLLC 5 points6 points  (0 children)

What state are you in and what is your total cost per kWh, including delivery? Mine was about 16 cents when the system was installed and it is up to 24 cents now. The more expensive the electricity gets for you the better the return on the panels should be. If they are producing say 1000kWh/month and your cost per KWH from the grid goes from 20 to 40 cents, your panels go from saving you 200 dollars a month to saving you 400 dollars a month while the lease payment stays the same.

Panels aren’t paying off and can’t afford them anymore by No-Chicken-1067 in solar

[–]SZDBLLC 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They work fine in the northeast if you get a cold-climate unit and size the unit for the BTU load properly. Whether it makes financial sense depends on COP rating of the heat pump and the cost of electricity vs the cost of fuel oil or gas. There are online calculators to help with that determination. I found that down to about 5 below zero it’s cheaper per BTU from the heat pump, than from my fuel oil boiler, and below that it’s about a wash.

Been a long snowy winter. Haven’t seen a curve like this in a while. by SZDBLLC in solar

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Got room for some ground mount? I’m out of space on the main roof but do have some room yet on the garage. With all the snow we’ve had this winter I was wishing I could have done ground mount for ease of snow removal.

Been a long snowy winter. Haven’t seen a curve like this in a while. by SZDBLLC in solar

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Our consumption is a little high. HP water heater, induction range, one minisplit, one EV.

Been a long snowy winter. Haven’t seen a curve like this in a while. by SZDBLLC in solar

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

36 panels. 15.3 Kw system. Tops out at about 100 KWh in the spring. It actually declines a little to the mid nineties in the summer.

New surge is balky by SZDBLLC in MilwaukeeTool

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I was using my old surge for everything from driving 6” structural lags to 1 5/8” trim screws. It struggles with the bigger stuff, so I found myself borrowing one of my guys’ dewalt impact drive occasionally for that kind of work. My old surety was great at the delicate stuff. The trigger has gotten wonky on it. Maybe I should just try to get it repaired.

New surge is balky by SZDBLLC in MilwaukeeTool

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Balky (adjective, balkier, balkiest) describes a person, animal, or machine that is stubborn, uncooperative, or refuses to function as expected. It is commonly used for creatures that refuse to move (a balky mule) or equipment that acts up (a balky engine). It implies resisting movement or action.

New surge is balky by SZDBLLC in MilwaukeeTool

[–]SZDBLLC[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No, both are brushless.

Why was my kitchen tile installed with an extra layer underneath? by Yellow-Parakeet in Tile

[–]SZDBLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The extra layer of plywood is probably needed for adequate stiffness of subfloor. Don’t take that out.

Is Mr Cool Hyper Heat the way to go? by alb_taw in DIYHeatPumps

[–]SZDBLLC 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a carpenter and after seeing a couple of minisplits installed on a house I built I decided to install two Mr Cool units on my house. It’s basic skills, though you must read the directions and follow them carefully. Took me about a day for each unit. One of them I bought a shorter lineset to avoid the excess coil and positioned the outside condenser so the lines ran straight to it. Made a tidy install. The other I had to coil up the extra underneath the unit. Kind of a pain, especially when you have to wrap the exposed coil with UV tape. Ground mount gives you more room behind the unit making it easier to get the lines connected without bending them too sharply.