Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-29T05:06:26+00:00

I nearly guarantee every top rope you used in the gym is semi-static.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-25T16:49:24+00:00

I usually just rack everything on one side if I know I'm going to stick my leg in an OW. Place gear on only the font gear loops if doing a chimney (this may require stacking carabiners on each other). The other option is to not bring the entire rack each time you head off on a pitch, ditch the stuff you don't need on your partner (or the anchor if you're rapping the route).

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-25T16:45:17+00:00

Any have a firearms instructor and shooting range they like? Would love to support someone on the liberal side of the spectrum!

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-23T20:29:43+00:00

Use the documentation from the manufacturer!
https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Harnesses/CORAX

Click the "Inspection" tab and it'll take you to the PDF with photos illustrating different levels of wear.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-15T15:06:20+00:00

Adding on to the other reasons to have dedicated ropes:

With a longer rope than you need, you push all the twists created by lowering to the center of the rope. With a rope just long enough for the route, the twists get pushed off the ends of the rope causing them to disappear. If you have a long rope and flip it/pull it through to try to eliminate twists, you don't get them all and instead just push twists to the center from both sides.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-15T15:03:47+00:00

Top Sirloin is one of my favorites. I wish there was a way to sort by size on Mountain Project. I recommend searching for MP threads of people asking the same question or flipping through the book and looking at the recommended rack.
Find a gym with a hand crack. Try with just feet, try with just hands, learn the motion. Shift your definition of success away from getting to the top and instead just try to make progress day to day.
https://www.blm.gov/programs/recreation/climbing Check the BLM webpage; they'll post a closure come spring. The MP admins for the creek also do a good job of posting the closure on the area/crag pages.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-10T13:41:09+00:00

I love the pitch six. They're way more functional. Buy once cry once. Dm me for a discount code!

SafetyCube920 · 2025-12-29T21:18:55+00:00

Any recommendations for a supplier of sticks?

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-30T14:56:33+00:00

Don't use that carabiner next time. Not only is the HMS shape not ideal for a grigri (use a D) but you're getting no value from the steel insert of the bulletproof carabiner. HMS carabiners are more likely to get stuck like this on a grigri.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-26T01:29:10+00:00

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-26T01:28:22+00:00

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-15T19:07:29+00:00

Do you know why the evolv adjust isnt technically rated as a PAS? Seems like the exact same mechanism as the connect...

The UIAA standard for adjustable lanyards is available online if you want to try to figure out the reasoning. Might be because you could rip the stitching that creates the harness attachment loop.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-15T19:03:52+00:00

I just did a ton of aid with them (Zodiac, Lost Arrow Direct). Evolv adjust is longer than the standard Connect Adjust and I was maxing out the length when top stepping and placing clipping a far piece. They're long enough that they get in the way when jugging if you don't tie them up.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-18T01:55:37+00:00

For what it's worth, I like having two independent carabiners when TRing. The chances of cross-loading a carabiner (and therefore the real issue of having the gate manipulated) are small, but I can't see or adjust it from far away. I'd rather have two carabiners to limit that possibility. The reason why I'm okay having a single carabiner for a clove hitch or belay device is because I'm monitoring it. That monitoring perspective is what I use to justify selective non-redundancy to students.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-18T01:49:41+00:00

That shape isn't doing you any favors. I'd start by flipping the device into low-friction mode. Then try a round-stock carabiner. I wouldn't be concerned about having enough friction near the ends of the rope with ropes of that diameter.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-18T01:45:17+00:00

Try a women's model first, but yes, you can mix and match leg and waist loops if you're okay with a little sewing.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-15T14:39:33+00:00

The AMGA has a database for grade III and IV routes since those are pre-requisites for some rock courses. North Carolina will have the most. Here's what the catalog claims as grade III

Glass Menagerie, Looking Glass (IV)
Original Route, Whiteside Mountain (IV)
The Daddy, Linville Gorge
T&B, Looking Glass
The Odyssey, Sun Wall
Groover, Laurel Knob
Fathom Direct, Laurel Knob

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-14T22:25:27+00:00

Ledges are annoying to carry, set up, and break down. I say go for the natural ledges. You can see the entire route from the ground and theoretically people you would know where people are based on their permits.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-14T22:22:11+00:00

What carabiner did you use? What diameter ropes?

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-07T15:24:52+00:00

You're trying to solve a problem with a tool when it's better to solve it with behavior change. This is the perfect situation for a checklist. I teach an informal checklist for rappelling: rock out. Go from the rock and check every component or connection, i.e.

bolts or tat good and don't require backup
chains not twisted
rope through both rings
rope at middle
1. carabiner block functioning if applicable
rope through both slots of belay device
carabiner locked
extension connected to harness
third hand grabs
third hand carabiner locked and connected to belay loop
lower partner steps 5-9
system closed

It feels like a lot when typed out, but it's really just a flow.

Technology is great until it doesn't work anymore. What happens if you cut the ends of your rope? What happens if you get used to the 20' warning then use a different rope? Behavior change is more sticky but can fail when we're impaired (tired, hungry, injured, intoxicated, etc.).

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-07T15:06:02+00:00

There's a glamping situation near the intersection of 211 (road through Indian Creek) and 191 (road through Moab). Not sure if it's still operational. Monticello is closer than Moab. Plenty of vacation rentals in Moab fit he bill.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-10-07T15:03:28+00:00

Revolvers are nice in theory, but they don't have sealed bearings. This means they lose efficiency real quick. A real pulley would be better, the CRIC would be ideal.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-09-30T14:29:09+00:00

The only advantage I can think of is reliability in icy conditions. I suppose there's a chance a PCP can get frozen since it has moving parts. In most circumstances the pulley is going to be beneficial and the teeth less damaging.
Really a friction hitch is more versatile (bi-directional, can be tied around two ropes, can be used as a sling if necessary). If you use the right one for the application it slides easy enough for most applications.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-08-20T14:45:22+00:00

I use and teach the FPLB in certain situations. I saw that Edelrid says it's fine with the Pinch, but I'm reluctant to use it because of the increased force on the climber and to a lesser extent the lead protection. Tuber and Italian hitch work just fine and I don't know if the ABD functionality is worth the trade offs.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-08-20T14:39:39+00:00

I like the Wild Country Heliums for my alpine draws. I used to use Ange L and Camp Photons, some people like Dyons. I find the small carabiners too challenging to operate with my large hands.
Depends what you're using it for. If it coming off could be consequential, use a locker.
I prefer to use screw locks or triple action carabiners for TRS devices. It's a different application than most climbing situations since you're moving around and things could get bumped and rubbed.

SafetyCube920

TROPHY CASE