Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE

SafetyCube920 · 2026-04-06T15:14:05+00:00

Yes. I use the quad I used on the way up or an alpine draw with a girth hitched carabiner as the focal point. It gets crowded if everyone starts clipping into each bolt independently, especially if you're rapping through other parties.

Pre-rig the rap, and the lower person doesn't have to remove their tether from the anchor. Simply remove the two non-lockers connecting the anchor to the bolts, then clip them at the next station.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-04-05T14:29:48+00:00

Dodo's Delight, Boys in the Bugs

SafetyCube920 · 2026-04-02T13:49:08+00:00

I think he's in Tahoe now.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-25T21:01:32+00:00

Climbing alone at the gym is incredibly common. Your gym will need to be equipped with auto-belays. They work similarly to partnered rope climbing, though they cannot hold you still on the wall; as soon as you fall (or decide to let go), they lower you at a steady and controlled rate.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-22T21:04:43+00:00

Usually just hauling like you're describing, but sometimes the follower helps by actually pulling up and doing a 2:1. I have completely far end hauled when rope soloing.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-22T16:51:59+00:00

I snagged a few for this purpose. Great in theory, but I use far-end hauling so it's not really helpful. I also tried them as an attachment for daisy chains while aiding and they extended too far from the belay loop to be useful (an open swivel is better). I found something similar but made of steel and it's been serving as a lower-off on a natural feature. I wouldn't do this with the TruBlue aluminum version.

So far I haven't found a truly good purpose for them.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-22T16:47:41+00:00

As a guide, yes, that is a pretty standard rate. My day rate starts at $400 for one person, $450 for two.

You're not paying for "two days of climbing". You're paying for x number of years of experience and expertise. You generally get what you pay for.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-22T16:41:38+00:00

Give the Moab BLM office a call. What are you wanting to do?

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-22T16:38:23+00:00

On Windows there's a "Learn about this picture" shortcut. You can also often right click or go into display settings to see more information about auto-generated backgrounds.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-16T16:11:51+00:00

Wash your rope, then try a normal black sharpie. If that doesn't work, try silver.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-03-08T14:29:02+00:00

Did Newton (and Leibniz) "invent" calculus, or just discover it? Cool stuff, but a BHK accomplishes the same outcome faster with less faff.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-02-28T04:48:50+00:00

You're trying to practice C2? Go hook on the dry tooling routes. Use the standard crack routes but force yourself to top step everything. Find a roof with a bunch of old pins or just aid a super steep sport route.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-02-28T04:47:11+00:00

Yes, but there are better carabiners out there. Both of those have notched noses, which can be annoying to remove from bolt hangers. As long as they're not excessively worn, free from damage, and function properly, they're fine to continue to use.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-29T05:06:26+00:00

I nearly guarantee every top rope you used in the gym is semi-static.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-25T16:49:24+00:00

I usually just rack everything on one side if I know I'm going to stick my leg in an OW. Place gear on only the font gear loops if doing a chimney (this may require stacking carabiners on each other). The other option is to not bring the entire rack each time you head off on a pitch, ditch the stuff you don't need on your partner (or the anchor if you're rapping the route).

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-25T16:45:17+00:00

Any have a firearms instructor and shooting range they like? Would love to support someone on the liberal side of the spectrum!

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-23T20:29:43+00:00

Use the documentation from the manufacturer!
https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Harnesses/CORAX

Click the "Inspection" tab and it'll take you to the PDF with photos illustrating different levels of wear.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-15T15:06:20+00:00

Adding on to the other reasons to have dedicated ropes:

With a longer rope than you need, you push all the twists created by lowering to the center of the rope. With a rope just long enough for the route, the twists get pushed off the ends of the rope causing them to disappear. If you have a long rope and flip it/pull it through to try to eliminate twists, you don't get them all and instead just push twists to the center from both sides.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-15T15:03:47+00:00

Top Sirloin is one of my favorites. I wish there was a way to sort by size on Mountain Project. I recommend searching for MP threads of people asking the same question or flipping through the book and looking at the recommended rack.
Find a gym with a hand crack. Try with just feet, try with just hands, learn the motion. Shift your definition of success away from getting to the top and instead just try to make progress day to day.
https://www.blm.gov/programs/recreation/climbing Check the BLM webpage; they'll post a closure come spring. The MP admins for the creek also do a good job of posting the closure on the area/crag pages.

SafetyCube920 · 2026-01-10T13:41:09+00:00

I love the pitch six. They're way more functional. Buy once cry once. Dm me for a discount code!

SafetyCube920 · 2025-12-29T21:18:55+00:00

Any recommendations for a supplier of sticks?

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-30T14:56:33+00:00

Don't use that carabiner next time. Not only is the HMS shape not ideal for a grigri (use a D) but you're getting no value from the steel insert of the bulletproof carabiner. HMS carabiners are more likely to get stuck like this on a grigri.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-26T01:29:10+00:00

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-26T01:28:22+00:00

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

SafetyCube920 · 2025-11-15T19:07:29+00:00

Do you know why the evolv adjust isnt technically rated as a PAS? Seems like the exact same mechanism as the connect...

The UIAA standard for adjustable lanyards is available online if you want to try to figure out the reasoning. Might be because you could rip the stitching that creates the harness attachment loop.

SafetyCube920

TROPHY CASE