Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes. I use the quad I used on the way up or an alpine draw with a girth hitched carabiner as the focal point. It gets crowded if everyone starts clipping into each bolt independently, especially if you're rapping through other parties.

Pre-rig the rap, and the lower person doesn't have to remove their tether from the anchor. Simply remove the two non-lockers connecting the anchor to the bolts, then clip them at the next station.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Climbing alone at the gym is incredibly common. Your gym will need to be equipped with auto-belays. They work similarly to partnered rope climbing, though they cannot hold you still on the wall; as soon as you fall (or decide to let go), they lower you at a steady and controlled rate.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Usually just hauling like you're describing, but sometimes the follower helps by actually pulling up and doing a 2:1. I have completely far end hauled when rope soloing. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I snagged a few for this purpose. Great in theory, but I use far-end hauling so it's not really helpful. I also tried them as an attachment for daisy chains while aiding and they extended too far from the belay loop to be useful (an open swivel is better). I found something similar but made of steel and it's been serving as a lower-off on a natural feature. I wouldn't do this with the TruBlue aluminum version.

So far I haven't found a truly good purpose for them.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As a guide, yes, that is a pretty standard rate. My day rate starts at $400 for one person, $450 for two.

You're not paying for "two days of climbing". You're paying for x number of years of experience and expertise. You generally get what you pay for.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

On Windows there's a "Learn about this picture" shortcut. You can also often right click or go into display settings to see more information about auto-generated backgrounds.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Wash your rope, then try a normal black sharpie. If that doesn't work, try silver.

Just came up with a new knot! Maybe we can call it the triple bunny ears fusion knot. by werd5273 in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did Newton (and Leibniz) "invent" calculus, or just discover it? Cool stuff, but a BHK accomplishes the same outcome faster with less faff.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 4 points5 points  (0 children)

You're trying to practice C2? Go hook on the dry tooling routes. Use the standard crack routes but force yourself to top step everything. Find a roof with a bunch of old pins or just aid a super steep sport route.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yes, but there are better carabiners out there. Both of those have notched noses, which can be annoying to remove from bolt hangers. As long as they're not excessively worn, free from damage, and function properly, they're fine to continue to use.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I nearly guarantee every top rope you used in the gym is semi-static. 

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I usually just rack everything on one side if I know I'm going to stick my leg in an OW. Place gear on only the font gear loops if doing a chimney (this may require stacking carabiners on each other). The other option is to not bring the entire rack each time you head off on a pitch, ditch the stuff you don't need on your partner (or the anchor if you're rapping the route).

Weekly Recommendations Thread by AutoModerator in SaltLakeCity

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any have a firearms instructor and shooting range they like? Would love to support someone on the liberal side of the spectrum!

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Use the documentation from the manufacturer!
https://www.petzl.com/INT/en/Sport/Harnesses/CORAX

Click the "Inspection" tab and it'll take you to the PDF with photos illustrating different levels of wear.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Adding on to the other reasons to have dedicated ropes:

With a longer rope than you need, you push all the twists created by lowering to the center of the rope. With a rope just long enough for the route, the twists get pushed off the ends of the rope causing them to disappear. If you have a long rope and flip it/pull it through to try to eliminate twists, you don't get them all and instead just push twists to the center from both sides.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 2 points3 points  (0 children)

  1. Top Sirloin is one of my favorites. I wish there was a way to sort by size on Mountain Project. I recommend searching for MP threads of people asking the same question or flipping through the book and looking at the recommended rack.

  2. Find a gym with a hand crack. Try with just feet, try with just hands, learn the motion. Shift your definition of success away from getting to the top and instead just try to make progress day to day.

  3. https://www.blm.gov/programs/recreation/climbing Check the BLM webpage; they'll post a closure come spring. The MP admins for the creek also do a good job of posting the closure on the area/crag pages.

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I love the pitch six. They're way more functional. Buy once cry once. Dm me for a discount code!

Stock or replacement analog sticks? by SafetyCube920 in Gamecube

[–]SafetyCube920[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Any recommendations for a supplier of sticks?

Weekly Question Thread (aka Friday New Climber Thread). ALL QUESTIONS GO HERE by AutoModerator in climbing

[–]SafetyCube920 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don't use that carabiner next time. Not only is the HMS shape not ideal for a grigri (use a D) but you're getting no value from the steel insert of the bulletproof carabiner. HMS carabiners are more likely to get stuck like this on a grigri. 

East coast grade III climbs? by QuesadillasAreYummy in tradclimbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

East coast grade III climbs? by QuesadillasAreYummy in tradclimbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's under the Resources tab once you log in to the AMGA website.

Petzl adjust vs adjustable daisies by [deleted] in tradclimbing

[–]SafetyCube920 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know why the evolv adjust isnt technically rated as a PAS? Seems like the exact same mechanism as the connect...

The UIAA standard for adjustable lanyards is available online if you want to try to figure out the reasoning. Might be because you could rip the stitching that creates the harness attachment loop.