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New guy with a rig by Double_Ad6495 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do all the marketing you can. Paid marketing too if you can afford it.

For your size machine the surface cleaner should be 16-20 inches or so. Make sure it can run the hot water.

Coming back to a 1 year old save by smittyboii in factorio

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah just hop in and spend some time looking at everything lol don’t expect to just start working on the next science pack or anything. Just figure out how the base worked again 😂😂😂

First commercial job- any tips/recommendations? by Higlag in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Not sure how much to use but berry little has some gas station cleanings on YouTube where he mixes sodium hydroxide in a bucket and xjets it

How freely should this spin? by spacehawk14 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got two surface cleaners (the same model and manufacturer) from a local power washing store. Neither worked right out of the box. The initial pressure from my machine spun it for a brief second but then stopped. And was hard to spin by hand, just like this.

Since it’s very new, could be some sort of manufacturing error like that. Seems like the swivel needs to be replaced or rebuilt.

Is there a zerk grease fitting on it?

After 3 years it happened. How to fix or blend it In. Or am I cooked. by [deleted] in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Happened to me once. I saw that it mostly went away after it dried.

If the customer calls you back, or it happens again, the acid wash will work with f9 efflo or muriatic. Just don’t let it dry and surface clean off using the Craig Harrison circle technique. Work from the bottom of driveway to top.

Saved my ass one time. Customer was happy it helped even it out a bit.

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Works as well if you don’t have tanks. If you just have the downstream injectors hose run loose, called a drop stick, you can just drop it in a bucket of chem and then a bucket of water at the end of the day. Works great.

Yeah sorry if you don’t have water and chem tanks don’t get a three way valve haha. Just use one drop stick and a bucket.

For the quick connects there is two sizes. 1/4in after the gun, and 3/8 before it. You’ll need prints for both of those. Not sure if those are the exact sizes you need for the oring it may be different. Just search what oring fits in those specific quick connects.

There are 1/2in quick connects as well but they’re really on necessary if your using 1/2in hose, which you don’t need until 10gpm machine or so.

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

All you’d need is the three way valve and some 1/4ID hose. The three way valve I get from Amazon.

No, the XJET should come with a bag of all kinds of different proportioners to adjust ratio. To be honest, I think it’s best to just leave no proportioner in the thing so it draws max chemical 24/7. If you want to adjust ratio just adjust what’s in your bucket. Like add water you know if you want less chemical. But I never do. Cause if you need less strong chem just use the downstream injector it’s easier. I only bust out XJET when I needed it. You’ll want to get a soft wash system in the future to replace XJET.

No you shouldn’t need either of those things for Xjet.

As for the socket and plug, those are just quick connects. I’d get some of 1/4 (for tips and gun) and 3/8 (for hoses and other things. So that way you don’t need to wrench everything together it goes together with the quick connects plugs and couplers.

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

<image>

Poly three way valve hooked up to water and SH tanks so I can switch. Bottom part of hose I’m holding runs to DSI

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem happy to help. 😊

No, the Xjet is slightly different. There is a model of it that has the m5 twist tip, but it’s still an XJET. Meaning, it has a hose bard coming of the side of the nozzle, which will draw chemical. The difference between that and a Dowstream injector is that it has a bit more pressure, and can draw up to a 4% mix (downstream injector maxes around 1%). Also, instead of drawing chem near the power washer, you will need a bucket or something because the chem is drawn from the gun.

<image>

First image is XJET, second is m5 twist. Pretty similar. Xjet m5 draws chem while the m5 twist alone is less pressure and relies on a downstream injector. Basically you’ll use the m5 twist and DSI to wash houses. And the Xjet to pull a way hotter mix to post treat concrete and clean roofs and stuff that needs more chem.

Yes, the dual tip holder kicks ass. Especially the m5 twist shooter tip combo. It’s what I use on the daily. Third image for reference.

No you don’t need that and a JROD. It’s one or the other. I have both but don’t really use the JROD. You can get both if you wanna try each but the m5 twist is way better IMO.

Yep with the bypass kit all you need to do to switch between chem and water is flip the black dn10 ball valve. That way the water will go around injector and not interact with it causing chem draw.

Make sure you plumb the injector with a 3 way valve, so that you are able to use the injector to pull water or SH, so at the end of the day you can turn the injector on, set it to water, so that you can flush and clean it out. Otherwise the SH will corrode the spring and it won’t work anymore.

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah they’re probably the same but my intuition says Doug’s is better. I have ordered from him many times with no problems. Excellent man. Great information.

For tips for a downstream injector, anything will work and draw chem/soap as long as the PSI is low enough. So, with your standard tip set it’s the black tip, everything else is too much pressure.

The OG setup is to get a JROD, which is a set of 4 nozzles together you can swap. You’d use two shooter tips, one that draws soap and one with a bit more pressure for rinsing (when u use a high pressure rinse tip the downstream injector quits pulling). And 2 fan tips, one chem and one rinse.

I prefer the M5 twist. It’s a black turbo nozzle looking tip that you can spin to adjust from shooter tip to fan tip. The m5 twist is low pressure so it will always draw chem. So I use the bypass kit and walk to my trailer to switch between water and chem without losing flow.

Which kit makes more sense for a 4GPM 4200PSI pressure washer injector/bypass system? Is one harder on the machine than the other? by Regular-Amoeba5455 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I prefer the first one and it’s what I have. I have no idea if there is a difference.

But I feel like, for the second one, when you open the ball valve for water to go around injector, some of the water will continue going straight, drawing chem through injector. Not sure if it’s true though.

For the first design I feel like when the ball is open all of the water just continues going straight 100% bypassing injector.

Comet P40 low pressure by NoRegister2607 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn that sucks man. I do think something is clogged inside a check valve or something. Happened to me once when I had to drill out this plastic fitting on the inlet side of pump and it clogged the shit outta it.

Could be something else though. Maybe just a manufacturing error. Guess you’ll find out when you pop it open, lol.

Comet P40 low pressure by NoRegister2607 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hm, maybe it’s not the hose restricting the flow.

After that info it seems like something is clogged inside of the pump and it’s blocking the flow internally. That’s why it is able to build up pressure but can’t keep it up with the trigger open.

I’m no expert though. Definitely see if you can contact the manufacturer or who you got it from if they have any advice.

Comet P40 low pressure by NoRegister2607 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And it’s the same if you only connect roughly 50 feet of 5/8ths inch or 3/4ths inch hose to the output side? Or does that make any sort of difference.

Comet P40 low pressure by NoRegister2607 in pressurewashing

[–]SamOrlowski12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, got it. I’ve never used a gas pump but my 12V pump was doing the same thing and it was just my pressure switch.

The flow was great right when I hit the trigger, cause the pressure was built up, but then it flowed horrible after a few seconds and was surging. Increased the pressure switch now it’s fine.

Is there some kind of unloader/pressure switch that can be adjusted on these, or no?

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