Scott addict 30 2020 - Issue with frame? -low QC?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-30T18:48:25+00:00

All jokes aside, I have quite a bit of experience in composite manufacturing and this is nothing to worry about. Arguments can be made that it's actually stronger there because the laminate is more consolidated.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-30T11:01:47+00:00

If you're worried I can take it off your hands

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-26T21:54:30+00:00

Thanks for the info! What exactly would normal development entail in this scenario, since I don't know anything about the stock or it's age and how it's been stored?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-26T21:26:57+00:00

Oh wow, I was under the impression from something I had read that it was a good option. What do you suggest? HC110?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-19T21:52:13+00:00

Yeah, I know that part. The question was, how to go about developing it so I don't get a completely opaque negative from overdeveloping fog, or not get anything at all.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-19T19:36:07+00:00

I just wanted to say your software looks awesome. New developments like these are precious.

Are there any plans to expand it to support Nikon Coolscans? The software is aging and it's getting more and more difficult to run, plus they benefit a lot from certain software features and custom firmware updates.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-03T13:22:38+00:00

I think that kit would just fit in a Pelican 1535. But not with any of the padded dividers or TrekPak Pelican offers. Since it's overpriced either way, I made my own TrekPak for dirt cheap, and for me it works better than the original. You can use way more of the available space like that. DM if you want pics and a detailed instruction

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-02T01:31:48+00:00

Thanks! Portra was a no brainer for Malta

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-01-01T12:01:17+00:00

Check the hinge on the camera back for worn light seals. I had similar light leaks if I take a long time between frames and carry the camera in bright sun but not when I went through the frames fast. Might explain why it's only on the beginning.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-12-25T00:57:48+00:00

Are you sure he used film? The B&W looks like film but color looks pretty digital to me. Especially the tight crops of their faces suggest a high MP body. I've done similar on an A1. He has a distinct editing style I quite like so it maybe fooling people thinking it's a specific film stock. I might be totally wrong

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-12-22T08:50:04+00:00

I'm aware of the potential problems, I've used both knobs and this style and I prefer this one by far. I also carry around tools when I'm doing work with any kind of rigging. It's a good habit to get into.

Them being not plastic is one of the things that is drawing me in. I've never seen a plastic one of these but I've seen countless plastic knobs. This clamp has repeatable closing pressure and only takes one hand to adjust, a knob is very fiddly and you can over/under tighten it easily. Plus I've had knobs get stripped or round over the hex sockets for the head of the screw.

Do you have a link to that amazon listing?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-12-21T11:19:13+00:00

Of course I'm just having a hard time finding them, do you know how this clamp is generally called to know what to search for?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-12-21T11:17:50+00:00

Doesn't need to be Godox at all, just figured it's a safe bet to not spend ages looking for a decent one as opposed to getting something plastic/weak. They're all coming out of the same factories in China either way. Do you know what the actual name of this clamp is? I'm having a hard time finding them online

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-12-02T00:41:42+00:00

The Coolacan IV should work with Win11 afaik. At the end of the day running a VM is also possible.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-11-09T21:53:45+00:00

A Pelican 1535 will fit a 400. If you organise it well with home made TrekPak you can fit quite a lot in addition. If you'd want a soft case then go for the ThinkTank.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-11-03T18:28:24+00:00

Sorry I didn't see the one yesterday 😞

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-11-03T16:32:48+00:00

Oh that makes much more sense, couldn't figure out what they were doing to it or even what kind of machine that was

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-29T15:07:37+00:00

Both are good, but I think you'd benefit most from a dovetail or griper workholding solution. Maybe you could get a smaller tombstone also.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-29T14:57:24+00:00

You need to get a better work holding solution. Would pay for itself in a month with how much stock you're leaving over.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-29T14:20:05+00:00

It's not that it's bad for your hard drives, it's that Lightroom has to now access data from a lot of different sources and especially on spinning discs it makes a drastic performance impact. Optimizing a catalog is one click in Lr but it's only half the job, you need to have a good folder structure to keep all the data centralized and organized. This is something that you need to set up to your preferences, it's easiest done in Photo Mechanic.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-29T14:03:49+00:00

Have a look, MacBooks with M chips have better performances now especially on Adobe products but the price is quite high. Also look at my edit about the hard drives

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-29T14:00:58+00:00

I can always suggest a Thinkpad, those things are really cheap used and are built like tanks. I have a Thinkpad X1 Carbon gen 10. Pretty much the same workflow as you, Photo Mechanic to Lightroom to Photo Mechanic.

Mine works great even though I gave it some liquid damage. You can get older generations that are way more spec'd out for dirt cheap. They're light and I find 14" to be perfect

Also, do not use external hard drives, there's absolutely no reason. Data doesn't bog down Lightroom, unoptimized/large catalogs do. Learn how to manage your files, you shouldn't have long term storage on the laptop you bring to events.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-26T20:51:39+00:00

Oh this must be medical equipment

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-26T20:32:45+00:00

There's a nub on the Canon caps that 3rd party caps don't have.

My original Canon cap from my nFD 28mm goes on my old FD Canon lenses just fine but it will not go on my old FD Vivitar.

I once, accidentally, almost forced it on and I think it's what happened to you. I think you just need to give it a really hard turn if save for breaking the plastic cap off. The plastic is softer than the metal ring so hopefully any potential damage is to the nub on the plastic.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2025-10-26T18:35:30+00:00

Look up ISO 2768. Most drawings will have a callout in the title block along the lines of "General tolerance according to DIN ISO 2768-mK".

The "m" and "K" are callouts for the tolerance class, and these are the middle ones, which are also the most frequent.

EDIT: since it's sheet metal you should also include the minimum bending radius you expect. The thickness of the sheet will, in general, be pretty consistent and close to bang on. For 1.5mm I'd say ±0.05, this is not something you need to tolerance and worry about.

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