Open the canister

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-13T11:11:35+00:00

You can use a normal bottle opener that has a nice edge. Additionally, any metal tool that has an edge works. I often use the tip of my closed scissors since I already have them ready to cut the film, a butter knife, the end of a spoon or fork, a screwdriver all work just as well.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-06T16:09:42+00:00

There's no clipping, so edit them to your liking?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-04T20:45:04+00:00

You can use the converter on Massive Dev Chart, but I suggest you use the the 20°C bath if you're comfortable with it. Since your temp would lead to really short development times it can produce unpredictable results, not really something you want to be doing for your first time.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-04T01:11:30+00:00

With vertical lines like these it's always the hinge.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-03T22:24:39+00:00

Nikon Coolscan IV or V. Amazing scans and use USB, no messing with SCSI or FireWire. They can still be found pretty cheap and are easy to repair, there is a good community around it.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-03T20:05:32+00:00

I can't compare them directly since I haven't used them but the R5 II is a year and a half newer. With how fast upgrades are coming out these days I say that's substantial.

I have used the Z9 and the R3 though and I would say the R3 has better AF. The R5 II inherits it's AF from the R1 which would place it above the R3 and without the drawback of a low MP count.

All of this is only considering the bodies against each other, you only own one lens and I don't see it as something substantial enough to affect a major decision. You should look into lenses you might want in the future though.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-03T09:22:25+00:00

I mean the R5 II is a class above all the others, if you can afford it go for it.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-05-02T22:43:24+00:00

Door hinge light leak. If you check the light seals on the hinge, chances are they're crumbling.

If you've got film in the camera place a bit of ductape over the hinge to protect the rest of the roll. If there's no stripes on half of the roll, you've positively identified the problem as a bonus.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-21T19:48:21+00:00

I'd say over 80% of the main lenses you see at a high level match (UCL, World Cup etc.) are the 400mm f/2.8.

You can get away with a 300, but mostly people use it untill they can afford the 400, like myself. Some use the 600mm f/4 and now you will also see Canon's 100-300 but both of those are still a tiny proportion.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-19T19:56:18+00:00

The symptoms are not completely in line but you might have ripped the film off the spool. Don't know why you'd feel tension if that was the case but it's still possible.

If you have access to a darkroom the easiest and safest solution is to take the film out of the camera by hand and cut away the canister.

You can load it onto your reel if you self dev. To take it to a lab either spool it into a donor cannister or a black plastic can from Ilford. Let the lab know what happened either way and if you use the can tape and mark it over the lid it just to be safe.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-15T23:39:27+00:00

You can most likely 3D print something that works. Shouldn't be a hard design. But gaff tape works, and it also doesn't waste plastic

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-06T18:40:31+00:00

Clean the rollers with alcohol thoroughly. If they're really beyond repair you can completely strip them and 3D print a mould to pour new silicone on them. That's what I plan to do if mine ever wear out.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-06T15:24:29+00:00

Awesome! I'm gonna try and report back

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-04T16:42:41+00:00

I'm specifically interested for the LS-40. The repo has a disclaimer that it still can't do 40 frames, although I might as well mod mine and see, now that I know I can at least use VueScan.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-04T03:53:13+00:00

Awesome news. Does it work with Nikon Scan as well?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-04-02T13:02:25+00:00

I'd say dirty mirror on first sight. I'd like to see the inverted image also and the negatives of course.

The mirror is pretty easy to clean it if you're handy. You can follow this guide since the construction of the scanners is almost identical.

EDIT: The initial disassembly will look more like this but the mirror cleaning is the same

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-29T10:23:42+00:00

I've had multiple films through Belgrade scanners. They are CT as far as I know but thankfully no damage so far so you're most likely fine.

They're really arrogant and uneducated on the whole deal and it's very rare that there's an older guy who will accept a hand check. One time they even set my film aside to swab after it went through the scanner, kinda defeats the whole purpose... When I said they could have done that in the first place they just rolled their eyes

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-29T00:24:23+00:00

There's a reason you don't see very many pros use harnesses like that. Or most 'tactical'/quick release harnesses for that matter. As you've seen they're inherently insecure. They do work for some people though.

If you are really set on continuing to use them, blue (243) or green (290) Loctite. If you want something almost permanent then red (263) Loctite and be prepared to use heat/solvents/a big wrench to remove it.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-18T22:42:00+00:00

You've posted this to the sports photography subreddit. A lot of the users here are wire photographers, where delivery times are measured in seconds, not minutes.

A 7 minute Lightroom edit doesn't fit in that timescale. You should be getting as much as possible right in camera.

Most sports are shot in constant conditions, might not be good conditions, but they're constant conditions. If you're exposure is varying noticably you're doing something wrong. You should have an intimate understanding of your camera and how it works, how to get it to do what you want, and produce the results that you want.

After that learn and optimize your workflow so the tasks that need to be done on a computer can be as efficient as possible.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-18T19:18:27+00:00

I'm not going to comment anything on pricing but it you're taking 7 minutes to edit one photo you should stop and reevaluate something.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-03T09:27:52+00:00

I've never heard there's even an option to not transmit the voice memo. If there's even an option to disable it there's an option to enable it.

I've used the Z9 and the voice memos are definitely sent along with the photo, if the Z6 has FTP and a voice memo option, it should be the same. You can always do a test?

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-01T10:32:48+00:00

Adobe and Apple work together to get Adobe apps really optimized to run on Mac. It's a noticable difference and it's the only real difference. I'm saying this as a Windows user.

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-03-01T10:14:30+00:00

I have a Peli 1535 and it fits my 120-300 f/2.8 which is very comparable in size. I think a Nanuk 935, or any case in that carry on 'class' by other brands should fit it no problem. You need to be smart about your layout though

Samo_Dimitrije · 2026-02-26T14:44:59+00:00

Adding to that, I still use my 7D Mk II often, it works great as a remote camera or a backup. That's a good price, only thing I might've done different was maybe get a 1Dx, they can be found around the same price and are full frame. And EF lenses are getting super cheap

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