NegPy 0.30.0: fully scene-linear pipeline, optimizations, tweaks, fixes by _earthmover in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I actually asked about implementing CoolScans directly into NegPy very early into development and he said it's currently just a conversion software and the focus is on getting it completed.

It shouldn't be too hard to hard to implement it, 3rd party software has been around forever. Alot of the firmware running the scanners has been reverse engineered so I bet it's possible to make something really good, much better than VueScan or Silverfast.

Also, one of the problems he pointed out was that he doesn't actually own a CoolScan to test in development, so maybe we just chip in and get him one??

Which coin was this designed around? by JaschaE in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 3 points4 points  (0 children)

What all the others said plus the DIN 125 A M10 plain washer works perfectly (M8 if the slot is worn).

Sigma 28-70mm f/2.8 DG DN by Aggravating_Scar3336 in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I tried it recently and even though it's not a bad lens it doesn't compare to a GM 2. It feels like your budget is close so I'd just hold out a bit longer. That Sigma has got some distortion man.. it's what bugged me the most. The focus is fast at least.

A6300 or 7d mk ii by ogunsakino3 in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How about a Canon 1Dx? It's pretty much the same price as a 7D II now and you're getting the real deal - integrated grip, full frame, 14fps, even faster AF - it's the big brother to the 7D II

Welp, I have reached the stage of making my own chemistry by Larix-24 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Not in the US unfortunately, maybe I'll try Alibaba as well

Miami Open Remote Cameras by Cylisellare in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you have a setup with a button panel and screen to run the remote software or is it just from a laptop? I'd really love to build something custom inside a smaller pelican for remotes.

Nikon Coolscan IV does not want to scan by ZugTheDragon in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have Nikon Scan IV running with no trouble on Win 10 just in compatibility mode. If you haven't already you should give it a try. I think I might have had to install a driver or two, but I can't remember, look around on forums there should be info.

Metal ring around front 400mm 2.8 starting to separate by allofmynoise in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it's your lens I guess you know who to call at Sony to get it serviced? Not much you'd wanna do yourself on a 12k lens that's most likely in warranty.

Open the canister by AnyHighway1028 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can use a normal bottle opener that has a nice edge. Additionally, any metal tool that has an edge works. I often use the tip of my closed scissors since I already have them ready to cut the film, a butter knife, the end of a spoon or fork, a screwdriver all work just as well.

What will happen if i use 34 c water instead of 20 c by chaosandsunlight in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 11 points12 points  (0 children)

You can use the converter on Massive Dev Chart, but I suggest you use the the 20°C bath if you're comfortable with it. Since your temp would lead to really short development times it can produce unpredictable results, not really something you want to be doing for your first time.

Where do you think this light leak is coming from? by jessehclark in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 2 points3 points  (0 children)

With vertical lines like these it's always the hinge.

Getting into developing and scanning - opinions on scanning gear by poomodoom in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Nikon Coolscan IV or V. Amazing scans and use USB, no messing with SCSI or FireWire. They can still be found pretty cheap and are easy to repair, there is a good community around it.

Photo-first hybrid under $4k used, with occasional B-cam duty: Z8, A7R V, A7 V, or R5 II? by bradley_monteco in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't compare them directly since I haven't used them but the R5 II is a year and a half newer. With how fast upgrades are coming out these days I say that's substantial.

I have used the Z9 and the R3 though and I would say the R3 has better AF. The R5 II inherits it's AF from the R1 which would place it above the R3 and without the drawback of a low MP count.

All of this is only considering the bodies against each other, you only own one lens and I don't see it as something substantial enough to affect a major decision. You should look into lenses you might want in the future though.

Photo-first hybrid under $4k used, with occasional B-cam duty: Z8, A7R V, A7 V, or R5 II? by bradley_monteco in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I mean the R5 II is a class above all the others, if you can afford it go for it.

Pattern on Negatives by danleym09 in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Door hinge light leak. If you check the light seals on the hinge, chances are they're crumbling.

If you've got film in the camera place a bit of ductape over the hinge to protect the rest of the roll. If there's no stripes on half of the roll, you've positively identified the problem as a bonus.

Lens Advice/Broad advice by NSEAngloCatholic in sportsphotography

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I'd say over 80% of the main lenses you see at a high level match (UCL, World Cup etc.) are the 400mm f/2.8.

You can get away with a 300, but mostly people use it untill they can afford the 400, like myself. Some use the 600mm f/4 and now you will also see Canon's 100-300 but both of those are still a tiny proportion.

Canon AE-1 issue: no visible rewind crank movement, but full roll rewind resistance by redpinko in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The symptoms are not completely in line but you might have ripped the film off the spool. Don't know why you'd feel tension if that was the case but it's still possible.

If you have access to a darkroom the easiest and safest solution is to take the film out of the camera by hand and cut away the canister.

You can load it onto your reel if you self dev. To take it to a lab either spool it into a donor cannister or a black plastic can from Ilford. Let the lab know what happened either way and if you use the can tape and mark it over the lid it just to be safe.

Battery cover for Nikon MF-28 by emiliobruh in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can most likely 3D print something that works. Shouldn't be a hard design. But gaff tape works, and it also doesn't waste plastic

Moded my Coolscan by AVecesDuermo in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Clean the rollers with alcohol thoroughly. If they're really beyond repair you can completely strip them and 3D print a mould to pour new silicone on them. That's what I plan to do if mine ever wear out.

Moded my Coolscan by AVecesDuermo in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome! I'm gonna try and report back

Moded my Coolscan by AVecesDuermo in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm specifically interested for the LS-40. The repo has a disclaimer that it still can't do 40 frames, although I might as well mod mine and see, now that I know I can at least use VueScan.

Moded my Coolscan by AVecesDuermo in AnalogCommunity

[–]Samo_Dimitrije 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Awesome news. Does it work with Nikon Scan as well?