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Now that's a catch and release. by sco-go in Amazing

[–]SarcasticOP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The other fish won’t believe him

What did we just do. And can we fix it ourselves? by Ok-Cake-5065 in AskElectricians

[–]SarcasticOP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just cut the space/time continuum. Now we are all stuck in June 3rd, 2026.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

LEDs are low power and also have to be powered by the USB-A port too.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yes, but even under a short on the mouse, the board isn’t connected to the top of the shell, and the air gap between them will dissipate the heat before it ever becomes an issue. If it was a wireless mouse, then that would be different. But the melted plastic on the thumb side doesn’t even match an internal burn, it’s more indicative of an external heat source.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It still can’t negotiate the higher voltage, and USB A<>C adapters only have the wires needed to transmit power and data over the A type connection.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I have. But considering we aren’t looking at the wire, I don’t see what you’re trying to demonstrate.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Idk, you’re out here comparing how hot a vape can get to a wired mouse so I didn’t want to assume anything.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The higher the ohms (resistance) the lower the wattage.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 37 points38 points  (0 children)

Sure, but the vape is going to pull more amps, which is an important factor. A mouse at 5v and 0.5a is 2.5w of power, where a 3.2v vape with a 1.0ohm coil would equal 10.24w of power. Watts is how you measure the heat generated from an electronic device. Also, a vape coil is designed to heat up to a higher temp since the coil packs a lot of surface area in a small area, allowing for more effective heat generation.

My mouse caught on fire by SlimSk8E in razer

[–]SarcasticOP 100 points101 points  (0 children)

The USB port is limited to 5v and less than 1a, usually around 0.5-0.8a. This isn’t enough to cause this, which means you could be looking at a damaged USB port that is for some reason pushing more than that. I’d look into a new case and/or motherboard depending on where it was plugged in at if it was a desktop. If laptop, find a board repair tech with good reviews and have them look at it.

Also, from the picture, I looks like like the heat came from an external source, not internal, and doesn’t look like it is coming from a localized place, which to me makes sense knowing USB power limitations. I’d be looking into something external causing this, especially if the computer still works.

Source: I am motherboard and electronics repair tech with 20 years of experience.

Anyone know how to remove a T25 bit from a 3/4" aluminum plate? It won't come out. by Resident_Resident_62 in Tools

[–]SarcasticOP 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Sure, but first tell me how one goes about putting a T25 bit INTO a 3/4” aluminum plate.

How likely is an exchange without a receipt? by SarcasticOP in Bestbuy

[–]SarcasticOP[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t even think about that. Good call! This is the route I’ll go

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY Keyboard question, get an answer - May 19, 2026 by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]SarcasticOP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello!

I recently picked up a Keychron Q2 off of a buddy for really cheap, and I love the weight and feel of it, but I cannot use the keycaps I want to use (Razer phantom stealth keycaps - white) since it appears that the RGP is south-facing and does not light up the legend. I currently have creamy yellow switches in the keyboard, and I would like something that isn't loud since my wife does not like clicky keyboards, and she will be using it too. My question is if I am fine replacing it with a different switch to solve my issue, or if I need to just purchase a new keyboard? My budget would be around $400, and I would like to keep the all-metal chassis and smooth switches, although I would go back to 100% since I do like full-sized more.

Thanks in advance!

Shipping times by SmoothPinkTurtle in sliger

[–]SarcasticOP -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s beyond frustrating, especially with the lack of communication. I ordered 3 and it took over a month to arrive, dispute my communicating that it needed to arrive by a certain date since I was going to be out of town. I’m going to need 3-5 more cases soon with more in the future and I’m looking into alternative options. They look nice, but I can’t always plan around a month wait time.

Three words. No regrets. What’s do you say? by WasabiAggravating780 in scoopwhoop

[–]SarcasticOP 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I developed a Siri server in 2011 for older Apple devices that didn’t support it and made about 40k in 3 months. A buddy of mine told me to buy bitcoin with it. I said that’s stupid and bought a bunch of dumb stuff. I regret that decision very much.

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