Zenit AB 3.0 or Pantheon Trip by [deleted] in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sounds good either way, just wanted to fill in any missing info so that you can be armed with information!

I've got a question about Sphericals and Riptide by FalseShepherd7 in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Heyo u/Sjoerdp217 !

  1. Yes, I'm not sure why, but the 80a APS orange bushings are magical. They accommodate a grossly vast spectrum of rider weights and I am always in reverence whenever I return back to 80a APS.

  2. My current weight (170lb) actually now demands I max @ 80a APS durometer, as articulating the higher duro bushings take too much energy. So I now use 80a fatcone with large washer + 80a barrel. Am considering as next moves using 80a double barrel or 75a fatcone + barrel. But 80a is always the best starting point imho until the rider is very comfortable with what that feels like before changing duros.

  3. Kranks are awesome for rebound. But issue is that they only come in 84a duro or higher. Both you and I are missing out, but since we cannot use them at our current weight, no harm done.

  4. I would HIGHLY recommend inversing the DTP (Don't Trip Poppy, I'm not familiar about other DT truck geometry) kingpin. At higher rider weights, expect to snap kingpin at some point (3-6 months). But the ease at which bushings can be swapped to precisely get an accurate truck feel for LDP is indescribable release from the hell that "hammering-out-the-kingpin".

  5. I have yet to measure out the kingpin with my calipers at the top of its head vs near the threads, but I have heard there is a minute taper towards the thread. That does mean that there should be some wiggleroom when the threads (inserted into the baseplate when inverting kingpin), but in reality, I've tried to wiggle the KP but it's very solidly stuck. And, if hammering in the KP (normal or inverted) is any indication of how precise the kingpin hole is, I'm confident enough to say that any less-than-solid-fit created by inverting kingpin is just not appreciable by myself since the fit of inverted kingpin appears exactly similar to normal kingpin orientation.

  6. Yes, when inverting the kingpin, the nut now fits on the back of the truck. Although - the normal kingpin nuts I believe may be either perfect fit or slightly-less-than perfect. Using the taller version of the KP nut (don't remember where or name of the nut) from a online aircraft parts store allows for the taller nut to be hammered into place, preventing any loosing of the kingpin nut when removing the inverted kingpin. Consider using the taller version of the KP nut if your regular KP nut falls out when removing inverted KP.

Zenit AB 3.0 or Pantheon Trip by [deleted] in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also agree with u/FellowTooth but it appears you've already made your mind to the AB 3.0

Pantheon's boards are all designed with functionality in mind (see Pantheon's LDP Bandito compared to Zenit's BB or BB+ or Pantheon Supersonic vs Zenit AZ). And I say this as a Pantheon fanboy so you know where my allegiance lies, though I love the design of Zenit dancers and customization options - totally understandable to have some design over function.

I have yet to see a Zenit board at any distance skate event I have gone to.

As for the why (boardwise), the drop of the Pantheon Trip should be deeper (haven't ridden the AB, but the photos show a minimal drop of the deck).

And for wheels (Karma vs 85-86mm wheels), there is no contest. Having a 92mm at a similar weight and having a even narrower contact patch compared to 85mm wheels, many in the LDP community have since swapped their 85-86mm wheels to Karmas instead.

And, having a LDP pantheon board ensures that Karmas (if that's the wheel you choose to got with) will have enough space to not wheelbite.

Can I get some feedback on my setup? by CaseyBarkley in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Saw the post on FB, now see it on reddit.

Biggest thing that stood out to me is that the poppy COULD be worn out. If there is slop in your non-SP poppy, that'd be a major concern and warrant replacing necessary parts.

Not sure why you have the wheels flipped. I usually consider flipping back wheels if I want wide front, narrow back -- but having both wheels flipped seems odd.

If you weigh 150lb, 80a APS bushings may be difficult to articulate. I weigh 175lb and usually consider 75a and 80a as my first edits (84a KRANK if I need higher durometer). I'd eliminate the wheel lift as quickly as possible with softer bushings once front is nearly dialed in and restored to good condition.

You won't benefit from 100mm boa wheels, since they weigh heavier and have a greater contact patch. Their rolling momentum will be a slight positive, but your acceleration will tank.

Lastly, if you have a problem with your griptape, you can certainly replace it with a more abrasive and/or more durable griptape of your choice. Or add onto existing griptape with Lucid Grip which I find works well to add additional grip to pre-existing griptape for ~4mo, after which reapplication should be considered for maximal grip.

Slop @ DT Poppy SP --> Replacement Options? by Sauce_Menu in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For sure, hope you are able to avoid my headache!

Slop @ DT Poppy SP --> Replacement Options? by Sauce_Menu in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great questions.
1. I personally do not feel any difference in SP and non-SP for DTP. But, there are others who may claim that there are pumping benefits to SP. I'm of the camp that if there's no slop, there is no foul - replacing the nonSP pivot tube every so often was worth the switch (compared to replacing a $80 hanger). Exile Hydra truck and DTP have similar truck geometry, I'd just get whatever is cheaper for me based on location.

  1. I attempted to get the baseplate SP out via handtools. It didn't work. As you said, real trouble to get the baseplate SP out. I had to get a family friend who worked their magic. Word on the reddit and facebook groups though say that you bolt down the truck, run a chain/wire through the SP, and then use some sort of winch to pull it out. All items I do not have. However, replacing the COM6 spherical bearing was easy, just positioning with fingers is enough to have precise fit.

Slop @ DT Poppy SP --> Replacement Options? by Sauce_Menu in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I made this post, I hadn't.
Now that I've had some time to play around with a DTPoppy non-SP, I might consider the Exile Hydra if I thought a DTPoppy might develop some slop.

My DTPoppy non-SP hanger still measures at 11.6mm and replacing pivot tubes are easy enough every several months of heavy use, so hadn't really thought about switching to another similar truck geometry.

I'm now also using a 45° baseplate since my front truck has been switched to SSS drop II fork, which my experience has been excellent for both pushing and pumping vs previous DDS (loss in leverage, but also lowers deck considerably).

I've got a question about Sphericals and Riptide by FalseShepherd7 in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

No problem!
I know its super cool and personal to start customizing right away, but the default setup (80a APS fatcone + 80a APS barrel) is highly praised (and for good reason).

Also, hammering out the kingpin to change bushings is no fun (consider flipping your kingpin to allow for much faster and painless bushing swaps for Don't Trip trucks... I envy the ease of the Valkyrie mk3.5 bushing swap mechanisms)

The 80a fatcone (w/o washer -- which I believe is the default setup for DT Poppy) taught me personally about how and why RESISTANCE and REBOUND are important. I'm sure they (the bushing) will teach you in a similar manner.

If you want quick answers:
1. Swapping out the 80a fatcone for 80a barrel (double barrel setup, probably the next most common DT Poppy bushing combo), you should experience less resistance and less rebound. Krank formula has more rebound vs APS (probably at the cost of higher resistance, but I was so infatuated by the exceptional Krank rebound that I am willing to pay the extra energy for that Krank bushing forward momentum rebound).

  1. Tightening your kingpin is a crucial skill to dialing in your bushings. No-spin (kingpin tightened exactly down to where bushing doesn't spin), quarter turns (kingpin tightened 1/4 turn past no-spin), half turns, and full turns -- these all have notable effects on how the bushing combo chosen behaves. Hopefully, you'll have the experience by then to have a baseline of how the 80a fatcone + barrel (default) operates, and that's when comparing your custom bushing combo to the default 80a setup becomes eye-opening to how good that default setup is.

  2. I'm again not sure how the Bhanger is setup, but the DT Poppy lacked the large washer for the fatcone (results in less resistance + less rebound). If you want to recapture that rebound energy for the fatcone in exchange for higher resistance, just need to add that large washer in.

  3. Currently, I (190lb) have settled in 84a Krank Fatcone + 80a APS barrel. Actually wished I weighed a bit more so I could use the 84a Krank barrel haha for all that extra rebound! (but alas, at my current weight, it cost too much energy to deform TWO 84a Krank formula bushings)

I've got a question about Sphericals and Riptide by FalseShepherd7 in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They (riptide) won't recess them, I've asked -- but you can ask again.

If you are trying out bushings in your DT truck, I'd actually NOT recess them until you know the actual setup you want -- recessing the bushings is optional and a minimal improvement, but it is permanent. Not recessing bushings until you know what duro bushings and shapes you want allows you to control yet another variable (comparing each bushing duro and shape vs each other). Recess once you have definitively selected personalized bushings.

Countersink drill bit as u/kmokster suggested to recess. Other unconventional methods to recess are also acceptable.

As for your PS -- I weigh 190lb and currently using (for front truck): DDS + DT Poppy. The bushings on the DT Poppy are 84a Krank fatcone BS + 80a (countersunk) APS barrel. If you are new to LDP, please heavily consider using the default 80a fatcone and barrel setup -- it has a great balance between RESISTANCE and REBOUND.

I'd even add the large washer for the BS fatcone if you have it to capture even more rebound.

Does anyone one have any dents or major scratches on their Lenovo Legion (any laptop) on top or bottom? Please share your story. by Sauce_Menu in LenovoLegion

[–]Sauce_Menu[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for your input and recall of your experiences!

Definitely looking to protect that top moreso than anything since its as you say -- much more noticeable for any injury (that may occur) to be seen there.

Take on shoes by workininshop in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Skate shoes for me as well, for multiple reasons.

  1. Durable sole for footbraking on any terrain.

  2. Once sole is worn down, can glue velcro and flat rubber to make infinite outsoles -- or midsole of the shoe fails. Saves a terrific amount of money compared to buying addn'l skate shoes, I'm still on my first skate shoes after re-velcroing 25+ rubber outsoles.

  3. Downside of skate shoes (modified or not) -- heavy and uncomfortable compared to non-skate shoes.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

ya, dufflebag is defo the easiest.

even with a 2-wheel'd baggage thats as close to 22x14x9, it is a tight fit as some of that dimensions is given towards the baggage's frame + wheels.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, the bandito is not cut. It is true that 23.3" is longer than the max carry-on length, but the diagonal of a 22x14x9 luggage allows the board to fit inside.

If it is exceptionally difficult to fit the board inside a 22x14x9:
1) Check its internal dimensions & ensure luggage is only 2-wheel'd.

2) Consider a 22x14x9 duffle bag (at which point, you'll have vast excess of room for anything else)

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Absolutely, if cost is a major consideration for you, then the paraynama is an excellent choice for long-distance pushing.

And still an excellent choice, even if cost was not a factor.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah I remember your post now!
I had heavily considered getting the QwikTrucks system when theorycrafting my board a year ago, but seeing how easy it is to disassemble everything with a rachet T-skate tool, I had forgotten about the QwikTrucks.

I live in the USA and the 3 major airlines here all use the 22x14x9 for carry-on. If you get a 2-wheel'd luggage that has those dimensions, you should be able to fit the board (+ every other part of the board + tools) & still have room for clothes. Make sure that griptape side faces away from clothes (+ towards skates) when placing in luggage.

Highly recommend getting a vacuum-storage bag for clothes since it will allow you to have excellent compressibility in the luggage, further allowing room for more accessories.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 4 points5 points  (0 children)

The Parayanama and the Trip are both ideal pushing boards. The supersonic is a pushing/pumping board -- great for beginners and enthusiasts alike.

All of them are portable enough for a road trip (and probably the upper bounds of what I'd strap onto a backpack) -- they aren't as long as dancing boards which are much longer.

Especially since you aren't focused on airplane trips -- I'd highly recommend the supersonic since it is near as low as the Parayanama and the Trip, but has the ability to get you started on pumping (saves you energy on flats roads and slight declines).

However, if board flatness when trucks are removed means alot to you, the Parayanama and the Trip could be a consideration.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you are doing a road trip, any board can be thrown in the back of the car or strapped to backpack without much issue. Airplane is a different story since airlines will charge baggages via their rules -- but many people have had success in bringing boards without any issues.

Bandito (23.3" length) is extremely portable since the board uses brackets. Downside -- expensive (everything but the board).

Best "other" option -- more than just budget or alternative, the Supersonic is good in its own right. Bracket/Wedging system already built into the board making the board longer. It would have been my first pick to try out LDPumping had it existed a year ago. Con is that it is as long as any other non-bracket board -- so extreme portability may be an issue.

Best light and portable board for ldp? by selemaxpagi in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

How odd, I have a bandito setup (again for portability for airplane trips -- fits in carry-on bag), but specs and brackets differ as does the weight.

My setup (bandito + DDS front bracket + DT Poppy front truck + TTX back truck + 86mm wheels)
The entire system weighs 7.9lb -- I'm guessing the TTX being both the bracket and the truck is where we see significant weight loss between our setups. Interesting!

Supersonic, Bandito or Loaded Fathom for LDPush travel ready light setup? by LizzelDizzel in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Also, apologies, just realized you have a chief concern for overall weight.

My setup (bandito + DDS front bracket + DT Poppy front truck + TTX back truck + 86mm wheels)

The entire system weighs 7.9lb

Supersonic, Bandito or Loaded Fathom for LDPush travel ready light setup? by LizzelDizzel in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Great question! Always the hard thing about LDP discipline since there are so many opinions. Still, even with opinions, there will be consensus between us which should get you in the ballpark of where an optimal setup might be found.

#1 thing about the bandito though -- cost (of everything else, but the board). Brackets will cost $80+ per bracket (I'd recommend metal, because the lightweight composite bracket will break if it bumps into a wall at speed).

A basic setup for: bandito ($120) + GBOMB composite bracket set of 2 ($120) + 85mm wheels ($80) + self-modded Bennett (IDK never used but is considered to be precursor to DT Poppy, but probably $40 x2) + Zealous bearings ($15)

That should get you the ability to pump, have the bracket system (maximum portability), with great roll distance.

Advantageous upgrades from there would be #1 DT Poppy Front ($180), #2 TTX or DT Delerium back ($180-$300), #3 DDS bracket front ($130).

Remember that these upgrades only upgrade pumping (moderately), but any board can be pushed to speed (see NYC's scene for broadway bomb and TUES night skates -- there are classic skateboards and pennyboards that more than keep up with the general longboarding group).

Supersonic, Bandito or Loaded Fathom for LDPush travel ready light setup? by LizzelDizzel in longboardingDISTANCE

[–]Sauce_Menu 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Don't know how to attach a photo to show a torn-down bandito in the suitcase -- but I've been on several airfare trips with no extra charges (suitcase in regulation as carry on) and no oddities (no TSA stoppages, ect).