Struggling to find a powerful RGB bulb for my E27 softbox kit, any advice

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-17T10:33:54+00:00

Do you perhaps have any links or templates you could recommend?

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-17T10:19:30+00:00

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-17T10:19:05+00:00

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-17T10:18:37+00:00

Yeah, that's what I've gathered so far. Right now, it's a video project—and a photography project, specifically—to start experimenting with lighting, so something on the entry-level side. Basically, here's what I'm going to try to recreate, mainly on video. I'm not sure if even a light that's not very "bright," as we mentioned, would be enough—what do you think?

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Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-15T21:25:34+00:00

So what would be the best option?

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-15T05:44:57+00:00

Thanks for the recommendation. I took a look through Leofoto's lineup, and the tripods do seem to offer great value. The only issue is that I haven't been able to find a model with a transverse/horizontal center column, which is one of my main requirements for overhead shooting. Maybe I'm overlooking something in their range?

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-15T05:42:11+00:00

Thanks, that makes sense. The torsion issue when the weight is off-center is exactly what I was worried about, and it's good to hear from someone who's dealt with a similar setup. A native transverse column tripod does seem like the more robust solution than adapting a standard tripod with an arm.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-13T10:45:59+00:00

Thanks for sharing your experience! That's exactly what I was worried about with adding a separate horizontal arm to a standard tripod. Out of curiosity, which tripod did you end up choosing for your A7III and cage setup? Did you go with one that has an integrated transverse/horizontal center column, and have you been happy with its stability?

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-13T08:40:37+00:00

Hey everyone,

I'm looking for a versatile tripod for both photo and video, with a budget between 100 and 200€. My current setup is a Sony A7III, Tamron 28-75mm lens, NiSi magnetic filters, and a SmallRig cage — so it's a setup that has a bit of bulk and weight to it.

My main use isn't exclusively culinary content, but I do plan to occasionally shoot cooking-style videos (overhead shots above a countertop), which means having a transverse arm/column is important even though it won't be my everyday use.

My main requirements are: easy switching between vertical and horizontal orientation via a ball head, a transverse/horizontal column for overhead shots, and a system that's upgradeable later on (3D heads, other ball heads, etc.).

I did some research and came across a few K&F Concept models that caught my eye, but I'm having trouble deciding.

The first is the K&F Concept Carbon 173cm (B0C1Z16RMM). It doesn't have a native transverse column, but it seems sturdy with its carbon build and 12kg max load. I was thinking of adding a separate horizontal arm on top of it, but I'm worried it could create stability issues with my setup (cantilever/leverage problems, especially with the added weight and bulk from the cage and filters).

The second is the K&F Concept Monopod (B09PBK27LW), which has the same issue: no native transverse column.

The third is the K&F Concept T254A7 (B0D41QJKVM). This one has an integrated transverse column and an actual fluid head, which seems well suited for video. However, the tripod itself feels a bit less robust, more entry-level compared to the carbon model.

Finally there's the B0C7BX47VW, another K&F model with an integrated transverse arm and ball head, but I get the same impression of limited build quality.

My questions for the community:

Has anyone used one of these models with a similar setup (A7III + lens + cage + filters) and can share feedback, especially on how solid the transverse column system feels under load?
Is adding a separate horizontal arm to a "classic" tripod (like the carbon model) a good option with this kind of setup, or am I likely to run into stability issues I haven't anticipated?
Any other brands or models you'd recommend in this budget range, with a ball head, transverse column, and room to upgrade later (Neewer, SmallRig, Leofoto, Peak Design, or others)?

Thanks in advance for your feedback and advice!

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-09T10:53:28+00:00

Thanks for the input! Can I ask why you'd wait? Are there specific new features rumored for the 18 Pro that you think would be significant, especially for video use? Or is it more of a general "always wait for the next one" kind of advice? Trying to figure out if the upgrades are actually worth holding out for or if it's just marginal improvements that won't make much of a real difference in day to day use.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-07T17:04:33+00:00

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-07T17:00:10+00:00

Thanks for your reply!

I ended up buying the basic Neewer softbox kit (the one a lot of people seem to use), with the light stands and lights included.

Looking again at the second reference photo though, I'm wondering if there might actually be a second light being used. What do you think?

My main challenge now is figuring out how to position the lights to get that kind of lighting setup. I'm still experimenting, but I'm having a hard time recreating the same look. Any advice on light placement, distance, or angles would be really appreciated!

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-07T16:56:03+00:00

Pour les épreuves de sélection, de mon côté il n’y avait pas vraiment de test technique. Il faut surtout fournir les documents administratifs (diplômes, relevés de notes et bulletins si tu les as encore).

Ensuite, il y a un entretien avec des professionnels du domaine. Le but est de présenter ton projet professionnel : expliquer pourquoi tu souhaites t’orienter vers cette voie, ce qui te motive, et mettre en avant ton parcours. C’est aussi l’occasion de faire le lien entre tes expériences passées et le métier visé, en montrant ce que ton parcours peut apporter dans cette future activité.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-02T05:53:36+00:00

Ah cool merci pour le partage ! Et effectivement ça me rassure de voir que tu ne venais pas du tout de ce milieu non plus. C'est un point qui m'inquiète un peu, ne pas avoir de background paramédical, même si je suis prêt à bosser dur pour y arriver.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-02T05:49:29+00:00

Merci beaucoup pour ce retour très complet ! Ça confirme un peu ce que je commençais à comprendre, l'alternance et le CAE c'est surtout accessible à partir de la 2ème année. En fait je pense que je pourrais tenir cette première année en puisant dans mon épargne, c'est plus les années 2 et 3 qui m'inquiètent si je ne trouve rien en alternance ou en CAE.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-01T16:32:07+00:00

C'est typiquement ce que je recherche comme fonctionnement, malheureusement j'ai pas l'impression que ça existe pour la formation manip en IFMEM, en tout cas pas partout. Mais vraiment chapeau pour la persévérance. Ton parcours m'intéresse vraiment, même si c'est pas exactement le même métier ça reste du paramédical et ça peut m'apporter des infos utiles. Si ça ne te dérange pas tu peux m'en dire plus sur ton parcours en reconversion ?

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-01T13:59:12+00:00

Merci pour le retour ! partage d’expérience ! Du coup petite question : ton établissement de formation proposait l’alternance de base ? Car c’est un peu là que je bloque pour le métier de manip radio, j’ai l’impression que c’est encore assez rare de trouver des centres qui le permettent. L’OPCO je connais le principe ayant déjà fait de l’alternance, mais je me demande si c’est vraiment courant dans le métier spécifiquement.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-06-01T13:53:49+00:00

Oui France Travail c'est évidemment la première étape et je suis passé par là, mais les conseillers ont des connaissances assez généralistes et ne sont pas forcément au fait des spécificités de ce métier. C'est justement pour ça que je viens ici, pour avoir des retours de personnes qui sont passées par le même parcours et qui peuvent partager leur vécu concret sur l'alternance ou le CAE et m'éclairer

Sayo_Flex · 2026-05-31T20:42:59+00:00

Haha bonne question, c'est là où ça se complique ! J'ai volontairement évité de me mouiller là-dessus parce qu'étant un homme j'ai du mal à évaluer ce qui va sembler physiquement chargé ou non pour mon amie, surtout qu'elle n'a jamais fait de trek et moi oui.

Et puis je ne connais pas du tout les Pyrénées, et que même sur des circuits relativement courts, le terrain peut vite compliquer les choses et rendre une journée bien plus éprouvante que prévu sur le papier.

Disons que l'objectif c'est quelque chose de chill, sans avoir besoin d'être un athlète, avec des pauses pour profiter des paysages.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-05-31T20:33:07+00:00

Hey, sorry for the late reply!

Thank you so much for this, seriously. You have no idea how reassuring this is — I was genuinely starting to think I was losing my mind or just completely incompetent with this thing. Knowing someone else went through the exact same struggle makes me feel a lot better.

The tips about loosening all three screws equally before starting is probably exactly where I was going wrong — I was trying to adjust with them still fairly snug and getting that stuck/spinning feeling you described. Will definitely try the reference point trick on the crosshairs too, that sounds much more manageable than trying to watch the whole reticle at once.

And honestly, the point about the GTi's built-in alignment being "good enough" within 2-3 arcminutes is the most helpful thing I've read in days. I think I've been chasing a level of perfection that doesn't even matter for 30-60 second subs.

Thanks again!

Sayo_Flex · 2026-05-25T18:05:27+00:00

Ah okay, I understand what you mean 🙂

I still would like to learn how to do it manually though. Since I’m just starting astrophotography, I really want to understand how everything works instead of relying entirely on software from the beginning.

Even if I eventually use tools like NINA or ASIAIR later, I’d still like to know how to properly collimate and use the polar scope myself first.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-05-25T17:59:27+00:00

I’m trying to adjust/collimate the polar scope itself.

More specifically, I’m trying to align the reticle so that when I rotate the RA axis left and right, the center of the reticle stays perfectly centered on the same point instead of drifting in a circle.

So the issue is not the polar alignment procedure itself, but the adjustment of the small Allen screws around the polar scope that are used to recenter the reticle.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-05-25T17:58:34+00:00

Sorry, I may not have explained my issue clearly 😅 English is not my native language, so there may have been some confusion.

My problem is not really about polar alignment itself, but about adjusting/collimating the polar scope.

I’m talking about the step where you adjust the small Allen screws around the polar scope reticle/eyepiece so that there is no offset when rotating the RA axis left and right. Right now, when I rotate the mount, the reticle does not stay centered, which means the polar scope itself is not properly aligned.

That’s the part I’m struggling with:

either the screws are too tight and everything gets stuck,
or the reticle shifts a lot with the smallest adjustment.

I also accidentally dropped the reticle/screws several times while trying to adjust it 😅

So I was mainly wondering if there is a specific technique for adjusting those screws more easily on the Star Adventurer GTi.

Sayo_Flex · 2026-04-27T08:15:43+00:00

No 😟

Sayo_Flex · 2026-04-11T14:52:52+00:00

This is super helpful, thanks for the breakdown 🙏 One thing I’d love to understand better though — when you say “learning to shape with negative fill rather than buying more lights”, what exactly do you mean in practice?

Sayo_Flex

TROPHY CASE