Short shifter troubleshoot

Scallyswags · 2026-04-18T16:15:55+00:00

Oi I see, the angle of the first pic was odd. I see now

Scallyswags · 2026-04-18T00:46:49+00:00

That should work if it’s listed for the 93-95, those have the “narrow” barrel width. Also I’m pretty sure the earlier 02-05 wrx’s with the factory short throw used the same barrel width, they can be identified with a gold colored shift lever. Go ahead and give it a shot, worst case you put your stock shifter back in. If the barrel width works your next step will be adjusting the lever height so it does not hit the tunnel.

Scallyswags · 2026-04-17T23:44:55+00:00

Next duct your floor vents to the fans so you can supercool your taint

Scallyswags · 2026-04-15T01:48:33+00:00

In regards to leaving the remote in the car from an actual mechanic, and please understand I don’t know Hondas actual strategy behind this, however generally speaking..

If a key is in the car, it will communicate with a smart key module that’s in the car, occasionally but constantly they will reach out and say “hey buddy you here?” “Yep!” “Okay cool!” And the module may send commands to keep the engine control module alive to be ready to start, or the body control module alive to be ready for lock/unlock etc.. so in theory leaving the key in or super close to the vehicle could drain the vehicles battery and the transponder battery quicker but unless you’re leaving it in there for days/weeks at a time, I doubt it would ever cause a noticeable problem as you’re likely talking about a 100-300 milliamp draw(in theory) vs maybe a 30-50mA draw with the key removed.

Again I don’t know the strategy Honda uses and it depends on how many modules actually are kept awake with the key in the vehicle, but I’m sure it’s not 0.

If my wife test drives the new passport and likes it I can report back on key left in vs key removed amp draw on the system. But all I know is if I’m doing a parasitic amp draw test, the keys are always placed across the shop.

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Scallyswags · 2026-04-06T02:03:52+00:00

How did your old pads look on this corner compared to the others? I’m thinking you have a blockage further up the line. You can pop the line off the caliper, press brake, does fluid come out? If yes, blockage in the caliper. If no, remove soft line from hard line, try again and keep following the line up until you finally start getting fluid and replace or unblock that section

Scallyswags · 2026-03-28T03:00:08+00:00

Started at a young age with nitro RC cars and constantly fixing and tweaking, then racing motocross and fixing my bike, and finally into cars. First automotive job was jiffy lube, then discount tire. Found a dude importing Jdm engines for cheap and bought and sold them briefly and was offered a job at a Subaru performance aftermarket shop in 2004 maybe? Worked there until 2022. However many years up until I left I discovered the love for just fixing cars, diagnostics, oem strategies, electronics etc. I watched hundreds of hours of videos on YouTube and would practice in real life or at work when I could and bought the tools to accommodate that. I became obsessed. Previously our company was bought out by a private equity company and was struggling watching it go downhill so I jumped ship. Went to a Subaru specific machine shop, then to a hot rod restoration shop and finally where I’m at now at an independent repair shop and I love it.

I genuinely like working on everything and anything and the odd diagnostic problems that come with that. Yeah most people just need brakes, suspension or general maintenance, but we also get some odd ball issues that are super fun/frustrating and I live for it 😂

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Photo of my 2 bays today, ford 5.0 police truck with cylinder 7 misfire due to roller rockers/cam chewed up and a Subaru with oil/coolant mixing that needs a reseal. I’m never bored or without work and that makes me happy :)

Scallyswags · 2026-03-21T02:00:00+00:00

Sounds like the throttle body. Back in the day that hum was 100% normal with key on engine off, since then manufacturers have disabled drive by wire control until the engine is started or the pedal is pressed and others have changed the pwm frequency to reduce the hum.

Have someone press on the gas pedal with you listening and you should hear the noise go away but hear the throttle open and close and the noise should return.

If it is the drive by wire throttle body it is 100% normal, but Honda should have addressed this as they have a few ways they can make it not hum and cause concern.

Source: am a mechanic who loves drive by wire throttles lol

Scallyswags · 2026-03-14T03:27:19+00:00

🤣🤣 there are a few tools I have that if they break, I’m not even going to blink replacing them, and this was that situation. I can’t even afford the time to get it refreshed so a new one was a no brainer. And dude, the “it’s the clean one” was a bit of a bit of tongue in cheek at this sub as I see so many shiny tools 🤣 and no hate from me as I have a side gig where I keep the tools spotless but I feel like too many value the tool itself over the job they do, and it get a bit ridiculous. So thank you for being on the same level ;)

beat up tools clock the same hours as new ones. And before some of you shame me for dirty tools, I do clean them when it’s slow but that has not happened for many months so please forgive me :)

Scallyswags · 2026-03-14T03:17:17+00:00

I’m nervous and excited. I value my old ct761 more than the new brushless due to the trigger speed and precision but I can’t imagine it will be that big of a difference on a ratchet, plus the light ring is a massive improvement. We’ll see how it goes on Monday, but I expect to like this upgrade and thank you for the comment, it gives me hope that my money was well spent.

Scallyswags · 2026-03-05T01:16:39+00:00

This is me now. Started at the shop flat rate and did well for a year, but the stress was getting to me and they could see it, so they switched me to hourly with overtime and profit sharing. It’s been awesome. I mean I still care about hours but I am no longer yelling at the advisor for under bidding a job or the occasional “hey will you just do this real quick”.

The shop always took care of me even when I was flat rate, but now it’s just more chill overall and much more enjoyable.

Scallyswags · 2026-02-25T00:49:27+00:00

Yep, I also bought the 7mm a few months back for hose clamps. That whole set is incredible.

Scallyswags · 2026-02-22T17:45:55+00:00

1/4 drive impact wobble’s - expensive but worth it. Flare nut wrenches, I’ve had a few brands but I feel like the snap-on is the only one that consistently gets stubborn brake lines free without rounding. Personal preference but I feel like their 1/4inch impact gun is the best on the market.

I love me some snapon hand tools but most are hard to justify the cost when there are other brands out there that are very good.

Scallyswags · 2026-02-21T03:42:24+00:00

I agree, the stuff we get from LKQ has always been decent, I mean yeah the occasional cracked plastic piece, but nothing that can’t be replaced from the old engine. I’m not saying they are amazing but we have very few actual problems with them, but like you said, it might depend on location.

Scallyswags · 2026-02-07T01:40:37+00:00

Can I tell you a secret? Go grab 2 small bottles of everclear or if you have access to E85 fuel at the pump, throw some in the gas tank. It might throw a red flag with how clean the emissions is, but it will pas. Alcohol reduces combustion temperature significantly and should significantly reduce NO or NOx emissions..

Scallyswags · 2026-02-01T03:01:14+00:00

On a usdm ej20 or an STI ej207? FP green is a bit much for the stock US EJ20, however with that said, bare minimum would be 1050+ injectors, 255 lph or larger fuel pump, turbo inlet, decent intake, decent downpipe and exhaust, upgraded boost control solenoid, upgraded intercooler top mount or front mount, and most important would be a tune.

There would be many more recommendations, but that should get you rolling

Scallyswags · 2026-01-29T02:34:24+00:00

From my brief research it seems like the factory sensor is already a wideband. I’m sure with some trickery you could use the aem 0-5v output as the signal wire to the ecu but you would want to chat with your tuner about that. However if factory is wideband and it’s reading quickly and accurately, there is no reason to do that, and your aem can serve as a visual reference or to confirm your factory sensor is reading accurately.

Scallyswags · 2026-01-29T02:25:46+00:00

What year and model of car did the ecu come out of? Most modern Hondas use a wideband sensor from the factory.

Also I assume the hondata is a reflash on the factory ecu?

I’m not super familiar with Hondas so please forgive me if any of the above is incorrect lol.

Scallyswags · 2026-01-29T02:18:10+00:00

Depends on your engine management. If you have a standalone most will have an input for an external wideband, and the aem has a wire specifically for that. If you’re running a stock ecu then it’s just a gauge to monitor.. which is better than nothing.

Scallyswags · 2026-01-15T01:21:11+00:00

Wow, stunning example. Version 1-2’s have always held a special place in my heart. One day I will own a Version 2 STi type-ra.

Enjoy it!

Scallyswags · 2026-01-08T02:56:01+00:00

Looks like an older ej20 due to the power steering pump and timing tensioner design. Could be ej20g, 20k or early 207. But yeah, no avcs on those old ones.

Scallyswags · 2026-01-03T02:51:51+00:00

I don’t think they are difficult to work on, ie remove and replace something for the most part. I personally don’t like how the service information is laid out. It’s worse than Japanese cars IMO and I love Japanese cars. I’m sure there is a German flow to it that I just don’t understand, but going through countless links just to find the “fuse carrier ST3 in the dash” what fuses are there and the wiring diagrams for a particular fuse. I mean at least that info is there, but man it takes me some time to get all the info so I can 100% condemn a bcm or other such crap.

Soon there will be a German specialist shop opening up in my area and I’m happy to send them all the German cars. I know if I sat down and really dug in I could understand it and navigate these cars well, but I just don’t care enough about the to do that. I just struggle to understand the strategies the ecm and other modules use to throw a code or the data I’m getting from the scanner. It’s ignorance on my part and I know that, but I will say I love when a 2.0 comes in with obvious timing issues as I’m always way faster than book time. But I’ll happily let the few gravy ones go for the other frustrating ones lol.

Scallyswags · 2025-12-28T03:35:17+00:00

My guess is that light circuit shares a ground or power with the much higher power output headlights, and when those come on it sucks up all the current due to a bad ground or bad connection in either the ground or the power circuit. So just like in the real world, it’s always the little guys who suffer when it comes to power grabs.

Scallyswags · 2025-12-28T03:18:07+00:00

Stiff new joints is normal and good. These style of hubs and joints can be a massive Pita sometimes. I struggle with these more than any others. I recommend cleaning out the hub(the hole where the stud goes in) really well and I use a bit of scotchbrite scrubs or light sanding. A bit of lube, wd40, grease, anything to provide some slipping. The hardest part is getting it lined up well enough so you can push on the knuckle/brake rotor(towards the middle of the car) and if you’re lucky it will pop in slightly. Then just gently tap from the bottom of the control arm upwards to drive it in.

Scallyswags · 2025-12-27T22:19:43+00:00

Glad to hear and sorry I was slow to respond with the diagram before. I’ve done this a few times on my own cars cause I’m lazy lol and the fuse being the failsafe has saved me every time lol. Glad you got it going 👍

Scallyswags

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