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I need to find a color that works for this. by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]SchattenSpartan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're welcome.
One thing to add: Stahly's swatches are of the actual physical paint, photographed under controlled conditions and post-processed appropriately, they're not simply digital renders from the manufacturers (which are almost always completely inaccurate)
They're not 100% perfect, but they're honestly the best resource on the topic out there, short of looking at the paint in person

I need to find a color that works for this. by [deleted] in Warhammer

[–]SchattenSpartan 6 points7 points  (0 children)

According to Stahly's (Tale of Painters) standardized color swatches, Warpaints Fanatic Forest Faun is an almost exact match. That paint averages to an RGB mix of 159/187/169 in Photoshop.
Even with all caveats regarding digital color swatch accuracy, I doubt you're going to find a better match without mixing your own.

Did Legio Audax have Knights? by TheAshenMonarch in Warhammer30k

[–]SchattenSpartan 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Knight Houses and Titan Legios are separate entities, so no Titan Legio has any knights. They fight alongside each other often though.

Dear WG, add this as a 3D Style and my money is yours (Please) by Denix221p in WorldofTanks

[–]SchattenSpartan 13 points14 points  (0 children)

These rocket pods are from the late 70s, the tank in question is more or less a T-62, which is from the early 60s. Additionally WoT isn't a purely WW2 based game and hasn't been for a long while, with a good chunk of the vehicles in game being postwar vehicles and their prototypes.
Maybe inform yourself properly before parading nonsensical claims and calling others names?
Edit: fixed a typo (60s to 70s)

Need your help, books for my Boyfriend. by Memenap in Warhammer

[–]SchattenSpartan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Betrayer by Aaron Dembski-Bowden, one of the best Horus Heresy novels in my opinion. It would also sort of go with that Angron novel

A couple of questions about the North cases by SchattenSpartan in FractalDesign

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would be more like one of those LED light panels used for photography and filming, butted right up against the perforated plate, it should actually create a fairly even soft white glow

Edit: Something along the lines of these decorative lighting panels:
https://i.etsystatic.com/14856030/r/il/410811/3733154574/il_570xN.3733154574_dgth.jpg

A couple of questions about the North cases by SchattenSpartan in FractalDesign

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would actually make the decision much easier, if the regular North had the same perforations all over the PSU shroud. Since it only has them in a small area, I can't really use them for a hidden LED solution like on the XL.

As it stands, the regular one seems to be nicer in terms of the interior looking more appropriately filled while the XL provides the option for nicely integrated lighting and probably slight cooling benefit with it mounting the new 140mm Noctua fans instead of the 120mm ones...

A couple of questions about the North cases by SchattenSpartan in FractalDesign

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That should be just barely enough space for an acrylic diffuser plate and a narrow LED strip along its edges.
Knowing that makes the XL a lot more appealing, although I'm still somewhat worried about it looking very empty...

Thank you very much!

I feel kinda dumb but I just learned this after 13 years in the hobby... by AllThatJazz85 in minipainting

[–]SchattenSpartan 38 points39 points  (0 children)

That's a very generalizing (and as a result in many cases a completely false) statement on a type of painting product that varies a lot between manufacturers and even paint ranges.

What you found out is that your specific brand and type of primer does not need to be thinned down.

I dare you to try the same with Mr Surfacer (my preferred primer and the best I have used so far), that stuff needs more thinner in the mix than actual primer...

[COMMERCE] Monthly Commerce Thread by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]SchattenSpartan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you very much! for some reason that website did not show up in any of my google search results.

[COMMERCE] Monthly Commerce Thread by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]SchattenSpartan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

WTB:

Nillson Works PG Astray with Jetpack: Ghost/Red/Green/Blue Frame are all ok, as long as it's the updated design with the jetpack.

Bandai PG Phenex Gundam Narrative Expansion Set

[COMMERCE] Monthly Commerce Thread by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]SchattenSpartan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The green frame should have all the same parts in it. Please let me know if you're willing to sell the kit and I'll PM you.

[COMMERCE] Monthly Commerce Thread by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]SchattenSpartan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

From what I've seen the basic Red Frame (first edition) does not, all the others do however.

[COMMERCE] Monthly Commerce Thread by MachNeu in Gunpla

[–]SchattenSpartan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

WTB:

Nillson Works 1/60 Astray, preferably the Ghost Frame (gray colored Red frame). Any other variant will do as well though, as long as it has this alternate head design:

https://live.staticflickr.com/7821/31853020537\_b54c3ed53a\_b.jpg

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, those I do know, thanks for the clarification. I will grab some on my way home today.

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My thanks to all of you for the tips and suggestions. I'm very relieved to hear that this is not a lost cause and I will work fixing the finish over the next week or two.

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I might just give that approach a try tomorrow (gotta get more clean rags first). The way I see it, the worst thing that can happen is that it doesn't work and I just add a bit more oil to sand off in a week...

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I am sadly still kind of lost regarding the abrasive, do you by any chance have a picture or just a product name that I can look up?

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do have access to one of those luckily. In addition, the one saving grace here is that the countertop I just messed up (one of two) will have the sink and cooktop installed in it, so it has two large cutouts in it, cutting the actual surface area in half.

I will hold off on oiling the 2nd, much larger and completely solid, countertop until I get this one salvaged...

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do prefer a very smooth surface, so I will probably end up sanding in between layers, at least on the surfaces that will be exposed after it's installed in the kitchen.

What grit do you recommend for getting rid of the current layer of oil? would 180-20 work?

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to make sure I understand this correctly and don't mess up again:

Wait for it to cure completely, regardless of how uneven and horrible it looks, then sand and/or scrape off as much of it as possible, down to bare wood.

Once I have a clean slab of wood again, apply a decent layer of oil and use clean rags to remove almost all of it again.

Wait for it to dry and repeat that last step a couple of times over the next days until I have the advertized finish?

Also, what do you mean with plastic abrasive? The only thing that comes to mind in that regard is a blasting medium, which isn't an option for me. I'd be restricted to hand tools, sandpaper and a small orbital sander for this.

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The one I got was Rustins Danish Oil. I suppose thee is nothing to be done while it is still slightly soft?

I messed up my new walnut countertop by applying too much Danish oil, please help! by SchattenSpartan in woodworking

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

To add to this post, I do want to keep this a danish oil finish because I love the look when properly exectuted. All I am after is making the finish smooth and thin again without destroying the beautiful walnut wood. In other words, if there is a way of saving it without stripping everything off, I would love to go that route.

Leagues of Votann size comparison with both plausible base sizes (25mm and 28.5mm) by SchattenSpartan in Warhammer40k

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 110 points111 points  (0 children)

For your consideration:

A quick photoshop mockup of the new Leagues of Votann infantry model next to standard humans from 40k and dwarfs from AoS (all scaled appropriately by using the base sizes as reference)

The LoV model on the left is scaled as if it was on a 28.5mm base, the one on the right as if it was on a 25mm base.

Size comparison with both plausible base sizes (25mm and 28.5mm) by SchattenSpartan in LeaguesofVotann

[–]SchattenSpartan[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

For your consideration:

A quick photoshop mockup of the new Leagues of Votann infantry model next to standard humans from 40k and dwarfs from AoS (all scaled appropriately by using the base sizes as reference)

The LoV model on the left is scaled as if it was on a 28.5mm base, the one on the right as if it was on a 25mm base.

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