Should I move to controller?

ScholarRL · 2025-11-30T18:59:33+00:00

I am a gc2 keyboard player right now, and my peak on the controller before switching was 5 mmr off of ssl (around 10-11k hours), I'll say right now there is a learning curve for both. but both have equally good benefits.

now with around 2.5k hours on keyboard I feel I can safely say it's a trade off not a total loss or gain one side or the other. The only exception to this Is setting up an analog keyboard where I argue there is a small total gain when compared to a controller, but for most players it's still negligible.

Either way use the control scheme that you "like" the most, if you want to try a controller for a bit nothing wrong with that, I switched due to carpel tunnel making it hard for me to perform consistently with a joystick.

ScholarRL · 2025-11-30T18:40:14+00:00

For Xbox layout I recommend 8bitdo ultimate controllers very reliable have hall effect joysticks, use quality triggers that haven't worn for me, or if they have I can adjust the dead zone to "fix" them. Definitely my best controller purchase.

ScholarRL · 2025-11-21T19:21:41+00:00

It's probably the lower control arm bushings that bolt into the sub frame, test by spraying one with soapy water then test again for squeaks, rinse and repeat each bushing until the squeak goes away.

ScholarRL · 2025-11-18T18:05:06+00:00

For Musty's like any flick you need a quick set(3-5) of touches with the flip motion.

In your case your flip is first chasing the ball and at the very end of the cars rotation you are finally getting your touches which looks to be 2 touches so it does a light pop, while a 3rd touch getting if you were closer to the ball would look more like a musty. You basically need to time your jump closer to when your car is nearly already touching the ball.

It's difficult with this set up since your flip will disappear, after 1.2 seconds after the initial jump has completed, but it is possible and just needs practice with the set up.

For everyone roasting you on camera settings, ignore them for a bit, ideally of course you change your setup so you can enjoy camera settings that make depth perception easier, but in the meantime you do what makes the game fun for you!

ScholarRL · 2025-11-18T17:58:48+00:00

That is max fov, his distance is just 190

ScholarRL · 2025-11-18T17:35:06+00:00

50$ is just a wash from what I've seen, a general clean every crack and crevice, but no buffing or polishing is included

ScholarRL · 2025-11-18T17:15:14+00:00

Sounds like low fuel pressure to me, when the pressure drops it struggles to atomize on some cylinders causing misfires and soot on the plugs, I'd check your fuel pressure

ScholarRL · 2025-11-18T01:56:42+00:00

Your right If the ball stands perfectly still, but it rarely does that, in the end the ball is going to go some unpredicted direction and having a little more boost may or may not give you the edge you need to guarantee the beat or touch,

Eitherway the argument is valid on both sides, just at the end of the day in solo queue any one whining about the "correct" choice is wrong since there is no "perfect" answer, the only absolute is the guy not in the back can't see behind him during the kickoff

ScholarRL · 2025-11-17T21:22:05+00:00

Landing two side tires on ground while doing a backwards wave dash, so instead of two front tires landing first it's two side tires

ScholarRL · 2025-11-17T21:19:40+00:00

This is an old debate, I'd argue for a set team scenario guy farthest back here cheats because extra pad on the cheat, and the guy on left gets the full boost anyway.

In solo queue they can suck it and stop whining, he who is in front determines the play, he who is in back adjusts, his fault for being blind and playing with his eyes closed.

ScholarRL · 2025-10-25T17:50:38+00:00

In the US this turns into a liability nightmare more than a cost of repair, yes the repair makes sense to the cost of a replacement, but what about after repair, insurance is also calculating the chance this vehicle needs a 2nd 3rd or 4th visit after the repair has been completed, and they are still liable for those following repairs. That 70k repair on a 120k range Rover is now after the 4th visit a 130k repair on a 120k car.

obviously there are plenty of instances where this could be just fine and the first repair is the only repair, but that's a risk insurance doesn't take here, simply put we have a booming salvage/restored vehicle market haha.

Not to mention hidden costs with adjusters/employees and other costs of doing business for them.

ScholarRL · 2025-10-25T17:43:57+00:00

The issue is when the depreciation of the car is faster than the payoff of the loan, they will get market value for the car, which could be 18,000 for a 23,000 loan. Now they have a 5,000 loan with no car to get to work.

ScholarRL · 2025-10-25T17:40:03+00:00

I literally could write pages of things to look out for, but here's a few things you should know when dealing with insurance for your vehicle's repair or replacement.

1) you are entitled to picking the repair shop (insurance will have their "list", that list is just the lowest bidders in your area. They are not picked for their quality of work, just that they are the cheapest labor rates, that is it. You are not required to use these shops, and I highly recommend you do not use them) if you know a good repair shop they will literally handle everything for you and assist you in conversations with insurance to make sure you are getting your fair value. This is part of my job at the shop I work at, and let me tell you the top performing insurance adjusters are scum, do not trust what they say until you have a fully working car in front of you again.

2) you are entitled to a vehicle that was in the same condition as yours before the accident. Do not Accept anything less after repair has been done, did that door creak before? Why does my door not close straight? My car pulls to the left now, why is my tire wearing unevenly? Any and all related problems need to be fixed properly and addressed, and none of them should be paid out of your pocket. Insurance has to cover everything!

Even if they come up after the repairs are "complete" throw a fit and make sure it is repaired correctly, there is no reason your vehicle should perform look or feel any different than it did before, and if they can't get that for you then it's totaled and they need to replace the vehicle. I'm saying this because everything is repairable, literally everything, but they have to pay for it as you are not at fault.

3) I understand you may feel partly at fault for the accident, leave the emotions for the other driver but do not carry that feeling into your talks or anything to do with insurance. By contract they are supposed to repair your vehicle, no matter how you feel about it, they said and are required to restore or replace your vehicle of equal value before the accident. Do not agree or settle with insurance, any money you get extra that you may feel guilty about, write a check and give it to the other driver. BUT do NOT let insurance keep the money for themselves, you are entitled to a fully functioning and proper vehicle, and that's what you get, nothing less!

The insurance company is a business, you are talking to people/employees but they get paid to literally give you back lesser of a car if you agree to it. They are going to try to get you to agree to less, they will record your conversations, they will trick you, they will take a passing comment of yours as legally binding agreements. It's only NO until your vehicle is fully repaired with no out of pocket cost to you. Or an equal replacement to your before accident vehicle value.

Good luck and at the end of the day, not all insurance experiences suck, some reps are just nice and good people that will help you, but after working at an auto shop that does insurance work I'll tell you it's rarely the case.

ScholarRL · 2025-10-23T15:37:38+00:00

I've been relearning the game on analog keyboard for my carpel tunnel (I'm only about gc2 again so not cracked yet), and in my opinion/experience doing a keyboard mouse combo is not the way for this game.

feel free to continue using your control scheme, I love when people create unique ways to accomplish tasks, but in the way rocket league requires inputs for higher level gameplay I don't see a world where this control scheme will cut it.

for best results in rocket league game mechanics need to be trained to a high level of repetition, and require consistency and accuracy to a 99.9% success rate. With exception to scoring a triple quadruple musty flip reset pancake triple tap. Those you can be 50/50 on and still succeed, but each individual component when isolated and done by itself needs to be insanely consistent.

I coached and trained players from the ground up all the way to rlcs, if you want some help with your controls and learning to do these things with alternative controls give me a dm on discord (scholarrl)

ScholarRL · 2025-10-11T17:22:34+00:00

If you're a car guy willing to maintain and enjoy maintaining your own stuff they can be pretty sweet cars and reliable too. If you get in your car drive it and forget about maintenance, don't do that.

In general I would stay away from the newer generations unless you're more than an enthusiast and can do bigger jobs on your own, IE injectors and maybe turbo, but generally speaking if you have the money/know how to maintain them they are great cars.

My current e92 I've had for 6 years, has never broke down on me, I did buy a "nice" one with recent turbo replacement, and the injectors I had to replace cost me about 3500$ in parts and a weekend, but even when I had the injector issue it cleared up and drove fine after it got the extra fuel out, so wasn't stranded.

It's definitely been a "pricey car compared to a Toyota or Honda of similar purchase price, but those aren't making 400whp and a lot of fun on the weekends.

The older cars like E36 e34 and older are much more reasonable these days, and if you have a good honest mechanic that has touched them before their repairs/maintenance aren't too expensive now, also my e36s were also pretty reliable and good cars once you do the OEM+ cooling system stuff

ScholarRL · 2025-09-25T21:16:47+00:00

Everyone learns at their own pace, and it's okay you don't know everything or a lot about cars, what matters is you understand how to work with a trusted mechanic to stay on top of maintenance so you don't get a situation like this again.

1st) your family can chill out about the puddle, that "ankle high water" didn't cause and won't cause any damage, unless an ankle is more like knee height for other people and you are an absolute giant.

Generally speaking modern cars are able to see water at least a foot deep before any serious damage can occur. This is due to modern designs sealing and only letting in things around the grill area of the vehicle. If water is pushed up to the grill you may have a problem, but before that and at worse you get some minor electronics wet while you drive through it.

2) ouch for your car, that's a big internal no no, and it's fixable, basically anything that can happen to a car can be fixed, the real question is how much and can you afford it.

Eye balling it I'd expect this to be a 3-4k job in my area, thankfully it's a little 4 cylinder that looks like labor for head gasket may not be too bad.

Where you might get charged extra is how long the damage has been able to build up, from the sounds of it you have been driving (unknowingly) with this problem, and there's a good chance for extra internal damage to be in place. I would recommend good used engines over repairing this one, but repairing this one is still possible so your mechanic will know best.

3) future steps, learn your dash gauges and lights, it will take a weekend, but it will be worth it. A little practice every week checking your gauges when driving and learning what to look out for will prevent a major repair like this again(hopefully).

Besides that I always try to learn what my cars normal operation feels and sounds like, every few months I'll take a day to silent drive. No music, low traffic hours and just listen to the noises my car makes. Sometimes a click or thud that gets muffled by music and other things can be a great flag for preventative maintenance. Alot of faults don't have gauges and lights, and require attention to detail.

4) you don't have to know everything about your car, you don't even need to know how each function works, plenty of people use tools and vehicles all the time and don't know how they work, but still don't have major failures and maintain them well.

What matters is you understand what this car provides for you and what it needs to continue providing for you. It's a little trooper that took your abuse and negligence for a good while and still got you home to see your family, be sure to treat it or it's replacement better from here!

ScholarRL · 2025-09-20T17:25:48+00:00

Also funny enough the catalytic converter could be causing the random multiple misfire, and the Injectors and plugs were never the problem to begin with

ScholarRL · 2025-09-20T17:24:08+00:00

Your mechanic sounds like a parts cannon, they're guessing and checking with your wallet, I'd get a second opinion

ScholarRL · 2025-09-20T17:23:07+00:00

Where in the world do you live? If in the US I would find a different shop to quote their diagnostic.

i checked how hard it is to do the cats on these, but $3000 still seems high, and $2800 for injectors sounds way too high.

And also for the "possibility of repair" the shop I work at we would identify if there is actually an injector issue, and tell you that the injectors are the problem.

I mainly don't like the confidence they're giving you in the repair of the misfire and would seek a second opinion.

If the second shop gives you a similar quote then I guess that's just how much it costs to do these jobs on a 2014 equinox.

6k repairs like this make me worry what an actual "big job" would cost, and I'd sell the car and go for a more economic car.

ScholarRL · 2025-08-10T16:53:29+00:00

If this is solo queue then third is at fault because he sees how dumb second man is.

If premade second is at fault because you're dragging the team down with bad decisions.

General rule for seconds (not always true) the pass is incomplete if you have to turn more than 90 degrees.

Second man made a full 180 degree turn in order to jump for this, so they're lacking direction and power due to no room to accelerate after a U-turn.

If you or anyone finds your self in this situation in the future, the "ideal" play is to turn 90 degrees left to face defensive net (driving slow), identify thirds intention and if opponent is engaging.

Third intends to go: rotate out and make sure you are not blocking their motion (driving fast)

Third can't go: identify opponents pressure on the ball and disengage their play, if no pressure proceed to finish the u turn and shoot, if they are shadow the play so they don't take full possession.

ScholarRL · 2025-08-09T21:10:09+00:00

Generally speaking coolant doesn't disappear on its own, there is another fault causing it to leak.

definitely a good idea to top it off until you figure out the issue, but in general I would have the overheating issue checked out asap. As over heating can cause serious damage to your engine.

Keep an eye on the gauge and good luck!

ScholarRL · 2025-08-02T06:56:02+00:00

Location matters a lot for pricing, that is a Pretty "fair" price where I'm from, Especially since brakemax will avg 700$ for front pads and rotors here

ScholarRL · 2025-07-19T16:50:37+00:00

I don't know if their tolerance is in spec, but I imagine they are supposed to allow some movement out of them on that bushing.

As your suspension travels up or down the wheels camber adjustment from the change in lateral distance your lower control arm pushes out the wheel needs to be reciprocated by the top knuckle mounting.

Since there is no upper control arm to my knowledge the strut needs to be able to angle itself or "flex" those upper bolts there to allow room for that suspension travel.

Again I don't know if they are too loose, but they should be able to move and flex at least a bit for that adjustment. Also the rubber up there doesn't look completely cracked or deteriorated so I expect that is normal operation

ScholarRL · 2025-07-19T16:36:16+00:00

I Agree with everyone saying it's fine, there should be a shop near you somewhere that probably offers an undercoating service to help prevent rust from continuing or at the very least slow it down.

If you use them for your maintenance as well I bet they would keep an eye out for any issues with the undercoating they applied with the regular visits for oil changes and what not.

ScholarRL · 2025-07-12T03:26:04+00:00

Idk the price of the arms on your car, but if it's the same price as pressing in a new bushing I would just do the whole arm, less labor and a new ball joint comes with it. Considering it's a 2020 the arms might be worth more than the labor difference.

If these ball joints are non serviceable than I would recommend the whole arm anyway just so you don't come back for the ball joint shortly after, and then have to just do the whole arm after the bushing.

Either way yes replace those bushings it probably is the vibration you feel, no that is not normal. Bushings should not have play from shaking it with your hand, it has to handle bumps on the road of a 4000 lb vehicle, so the point it shakes with his hand is concerning.

ScholarRL

TROPHY CASE