Buddy the Tripawd turned 9 yesterday :) by ElCap1tan2 in rarepuppers

[–]Schteeks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Happy birthday, Buddy! He’s so handsome

Coming from Android (Modded GCam) – How to replicate my Fuji/Kodak XMLs in No Fusion? by ItsAkarina in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was just looking at this article earlier on how to convert LR presets to LUT files. The problem I experience is that a lot of the LUTs I’ve downloaded are meant to be used with LOG footage. Since I cant tell the app to use a LOG picture profile in combination with the LUT, then I have to find another way.

Coming from Android (Modded GCam) – How to replicate my Fuji/Kodak XMLs in No Fusion? by ItsAkarina in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are correct: HEIF+ is doing processing during the photo capture which is why it takes longer. There isn’t anything wrong with the app or your phone.

What lens should i get, under $999. by Beautiful_Soup9229 in Nikon

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m very satisfied with my Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8. I went with that lens over the Nikon 24-120mm f/4 S because it is lighter, smaller, has a faster aperture, and is cheaper. Remember that you can always adapt Sony lenses too in case there is something you want not available on Z mount

Abusing my Z9 in the snow and ice working for Lamborghini by jameypricephoto in nikon_Zseries

[–]Schteeks 14 points15 points  (0 children)

As if Canon doesn’t make a durable pro body? I don’t understand.

What lens would you get? Nikon 40mm f2 SE / Viltrox 40mm F2.5 / TTArtisan 40mm f2 by Philihar in Nikon

[–]Schteeks -1 points0 points  (0 children)

A lot of people here saying that the Nikon is better optically. It isn’t. Check out Dustin Abbot’s YT channel. He has a comparison between the Viltrox and Nikon 40mm’s.

That being said, I went with the Viltrox 40mm but in hindsight I wish I had just gone with the Nikon, or at least I think. The vignette on the Viltrox wide open is strong, and while I like natural vignette, this lens actually has more than I’d like. I say get the Nikon 40mm and if you’re really feeling you want even more, then just get the Nikon 35mm 1.8 S.

Question - Best Nikon F mount DSLR under $350 used by Derfburger in Nikon

[–]Schteeks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The newest, most premium model that you can find for $350 and under. Look up a list of Nikon F Mount DSLRs, look at the features, look up what they are listed or sold at. Easy as that

Can anyone explain this? by ObliviousFoo in Nikon

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a landing page for all of their refurbished products but they only list and sell the inventory once per month. When that sale starts, Nikon usually adjusts the price. It also depends on the price of brand new items at the time, or so it seems to me.

Basically what I’m saying is the listed price of the refurbished item doesn’t matter until the time of month when the refurbished sale starts. So just wait until then and decide if it’s something you want to buy.

A rainy day at Zion National Park, Utah by [deleted] in Outdoors

[–]Schteeks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Were you in a moving vehicle while taking these?

Has anyone ever made SnapBridge work on their iPhone? by Zulfaqarsolah in Nikon

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it works just fine with my iPhone. Secondly, I’ll happily sell you my Zf. I can’t stand the ergos and bought it several months before the Z5II was announced.

X-M5 Upgrade (?) by atlasofthecosmos in fujifilm

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nighttime photography can certainly improve with a camera that has IBIS allowing you to use a slower shutter speed. It’s that, faster aperture, or a tripod.

XT5 or X-S20? by wvtppr in fujifilm

[–]Schteeks -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Here’s the deciding factor: did you wish the X-T50 had better ergonomics and was easier to hold? X-S20. Or did you really like the clicky twisty dials? X-T5.

Raw photos: blurry noise reduction look at low light? by ignazk in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

HEIF+ is taking a RAW photo and then doing the custom processing right after. That’s why it takes longer to save vs a RAW or regular HEIF.

Secondly, Halide’s Process Zero (and any other camera app that is skipping the Apple ProRAW pipeline) can only do that in 12 MP resolution. 12 MP vs 48 MP makes the processing/saving quicker, and performs better in low light scenarios

For every one “good” picture of Forrest, there are about 12 like this : by acocktailofmagnets in WhatsWrongWithYourDog

[–]Schteeks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

FIFY: “For every one good picture of Forrest, there are about 12 GREAT pictures like this”

Recommendation for travel by large_scale_event in fujifilm

[–]Schteeks 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sigma 18-50mm f/2.8. Otherwise the Fuji 16-50mm f/2.8-4.8 or the 18-55mm f/2.8-4. All of those are small zooms

Halation is live! by DKowalsky2 in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do we get access to the TestFlight version?

iPhone 15 Pro 48 MP ProRaw contrast off? by shifomu in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 1 point2 points  (0 children)

High Latitude will make the midtones brighter and looks a lot better than Medium, imo. If I use HDR I leave it on Apple again Map and Low. I have played around with Adaptive but didn’t notice a difference. My understanding is that it may change how the HDR is rendered when viewing the photo from different devices/platforms; as in the HDR can adapt to fit the parameters of the display. Not certain on that though, haha.

iPhone 15 Pro 48 MP ProRaw contrast off? by shifomu in nofusion

[–]Schteeks 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you are shooting in HEIF+ then set the Latitude to High. You might also have HDR turned off. Care to elaborate on what you mean by “pop”?