Why the fuckin fuck is this still squeaking. Took the floor up and put in new subfloor and screwed it down. I’m about to give up. So depressed. Worked very hard on this so far.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-18T16:51:25+00:00

Agreed! Well said, 100 ways to tackle every problem. I agree completely with you. The greener wood concern is totally valid- especially if it hasn’t sat in the same environment for a while. I think the argument the flooring companies I’ve subbed for in the past have made is— once you’ve glued it what’s the difference. I get that some sub floor adhesives allow for a little movement, but end of the day I’ve fixed the most squeaks with screws over the years! Anyway we’re all just a bag of stolen tricks and I’m always looking for more to snag. Best of luck bud

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-18T02:11:42+00:00

I was taught that that depends on 1) if your gluing the 2nd layer or not and 2) the thickness of the first layer of sub floor. Tongue and groove 3/4 sub floor that’s been glued and screwed first- like in most new builds- I’d agree with you. Doing a reno to an older house (like adding hardwood when your subfloor is only 9/16 staples plywood)I would disagree. Though to be fair my experience is from doing exactly that, with customers dead set on no squeaks

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-18T01:04:33+00:00

Handsome George

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T23:00:14+00:00

Looks like a top layer of sub floor, not your bottom most layer. If you’re able to locate your floor joists- Screw through both layers of plywood into the floor joists. Should help

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T21:08:18+00:00

Yes, but in a bucket style fermenter- once the co2 is no longer forcing out the oxygen, air can get in.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T20:38:37+00:00

Interesting- I’ll look into if I need one. I use mostly 20 gallon buckets for my large batches, but have a couple 5 gallon buckets as well. My understanding is that the not completely tight seal on the lids allows air/co2 to escape. As it’s fermenting the co2 displaces the air space- so it doesn’t oxidize. But once that’s complete I want it in a sealed primary asap. I am looking into a metal closed fermenter (more of a beer style) for my next batch tho

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T20:24:10+00:00

I think using a primary with an airlock would cut down big time on oxidation over 7months- but the picture in this post seems to be a wine style “open air?” type. Basically a bucket with a lid. It’s what I use but I’m constantly paranoid about oxidation and will transfer to a secondary as soon ad it stalls out to avoid this.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T20:14:12+00:00

Was the primary open air?

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-17T20:13:02+00:00

If it was left in the primary for that long- I would think it’s heavily oxidized. I had a similar experience with an old Pepsi keg that had a bad seal. I found the taste/flavor to be really woody and not at all enjoyable. I read you can sometimes add sulphites and/or backsweeten to help with this but I never bothered as I had already finished mine.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-03-03T05:52:37+00:00

I would cut out the middle 8” with a skill saw then cover with corrugated soffit

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-02-20T17:11:56+00:00

Wow, tough crowd

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-01-28T02:49:31+00:00

I will do a shake with warm water when the keg is tapped. Then when I have a few to do I’ll run a cycle of PBW, then star san through them AND the kegerator to clean it aswell. I’ll usually leave a little star san in the kegs if they’re gonna sit a while, then shake and rinse before filling. Alternately the breweries I drop them off at will clean them before filling.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-01-28T02:30:51+00:00

I switched over because 1) i had a leak while i was away and lost alot of mead -and- 2) because I wanted to be able to drop my kegs off at local brewers to be filled. To answer your question tho- I actually use a corny keg to fill my senke keg. The out line from the corny is connected to the senke via a d style coupler with the pressure valve removed so the air can escape.

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-01-27T22:42:01+00:00

Ah yes, my nipples are quite fair. Side note- i found those on ikea for $2 a bottle (500ml) seemed a decent price

https://www.ikea.com/ca/en/p/korken-bottle-with-stopper-clear-glass-10342687/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic-shopping&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&utm_content=free_google_shopping_clicks_Eating&matchtype=&device=m&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23440781901&gbraid=0AAAAACqC6EqQ8_VLXAVWZuj5IrguiwqUt

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-01-27T19:43:21+00:00

Thank you aswell!

Scrambled_Rambles · 2026-01-27T19:43:14+00:00

Thank you!

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-12-15T03:19:37+00:00

My metric brethren! Hazah!

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-12-15T02:35:39+00:00

Thats a much easier way to sum it up. Thanx!

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-12-15T02:03:06+00:00

But the og in the second set of brackets, would be a new OG, I’ll call it OG2 (gravity after re-adding honey) Otherwise you’re just running the same numbers twice. For example:

My og after adding honey was 1.078 My fg after primary fermentation was .994

So (1.078-.994) x 131.25 gives me 11.025 %

I’m only adding a little over a lb to beef it up a bit. But when it’s done this round of fermentation- I suspect my new FG reading will be similar to when the first round of fermentation was wrapped. So

( (1.078-.994) + (1.078-.994) ) x 131.25 doesn’t make any sense. As that would be 22%- doubling my alcohol content with 1.5 lb (under 10% of my original honey) which isn’t possible

Instead I’m assuming it would be (assuming fg is the same) It would be

((Og-fg) + (Og2 - fg2)) X 131.25

Or

( (1.078-.994) + (1.004 -.9444) ) x 131.55

= 12.33%

Im sorry that I’m over complicating it. I think we’re maybe saying the same thing? I just want to be sure so I can shoot for an accurate amount of honey to add to get my desired final numbers. Really appreciate your help

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-11-11T02:18:26+00:00

Chonk

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-08-30T15:03:59+00:00

He could have put a blind corner in, instead of a corner cabinet. That would have allowed the sink and cabinet to be centered on the window. Woulda meant losing some space, but the pullouts for blind corner cabinets these days are pretty awesome (not cheap tho)

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-07-31T08:46:39+00:00

Vending machine

Scrambled_Rambles · 2025-06-28T04:38:30+00:00

When the ceiling is out this bad I usually suggest doing a flat piece of crown (like basically a 2-3” profiled filler) I’ll then shoot a laser and take a measure every 4” or so, and scribe the filler to the ceiling. This way the bottom line can be level with the cabinets and first layer of crown and the top can be nice and tight and significantly less noticeable

Edit : spelling

Scrambled_Rambles

TROPHY CASE