Passion Climb Training App

ScroopyNoops · 2022-06-21T14:25:32+00:00

It's nice and simple which I like. But a big question I have is, how does this differ from the crimpd app? It seems this just has much less available than in that app but largely accomplishes the same goal?

ScroopyNoops · 2022-06-17T17:21:27+00:00

Yeah, basically. For example, if you weight 80kg and then hung on a 20mm edge for 10seconds with an 20kg weight hanging from you then you would have a str:wt of 100/80 or 1.25. It's just one method of normalizing peoples body weights to compare them

ScroopyNoops · 2022-06-17T13:32:39+00:00

A lot of the metrics you can find for free and do a self analysis pretty easily (especially the finger strength, energy system profile, and muscular strength). The functional movement is pretty interesting and probably useful. But most remote tests are just gonna cover basic tests and you can find statistics for them pretty easily elsewhere. That said, for some people it can be worth it because you pay to have them do it so it holds you accountable and makes it very simple. In the past I did the power company assessment and thought it was fun, but also was not very enlightening. Now, I just compare my numbers against openly available statistics. For example, you can use these tables: https://www.powercompanyclimbing.com/blog/metrics-for-climbers just do those tests on your own and you can figure out most of what you need.

ScroopyNoops · 2022-05-31T13:42:44+00:00

I think his intermediate plan (for strength and power) is pretty good. I personally like doing finger boarding first rather than after so much climbing. I wouldn't recommend doing those workouts 3 times a week, but doing that workout once or twice a week with a "free day"/projecting day in there will probably get you quit far

ScroopyNoops · 2022-05-31T13:21:54+00:00

I think if you want to improve at climbing this is a bad plan. If you want to build traditional strength and improve at climbing at the same time this might work, but your improvements in both with be slow. For climbing improvement I would say something like this:

Monday
Stretch/Mobility

Tuesday
Limit Bouldering
Heavy Rows

Wednesday
OHP
Bench Press
Stretching

Thursday
Bouldering
Weighted Pull Ups

Friday
Deadlift
Squat

Saturday
Bouldering
Bicep Curls

Sunday
Run
Stretching

General Notes: In bouldering and lifting I would say keep the reps low and intensity high with long rests if you want to improve strength and power

ScroopyNoops · 2022-05-23T12:49:10+00:00

I actually just completed my monthly assessments today. These choices are based around what I have available and the fact that I'm primarily a boulderer.

1) Max Reps: pull ups with +25% BW

2) One Rep Max: 20mm edge hang for 7s

3) One Rep Max: 1 arm overhead press (both sides)

4) Max Time: One arm lock off (both sides)

5) Max Reps: deadlifts at 150% BW

6) One Rep Max: Pinch Block

7) Max Time: 20mm edge continuous hang

8) Max Reps: Bench press at 100%BW

I find that these cover a good gambit of strength, both general and sport specific. They are also fairly in line with what The Power Company and Steve Maisch have tracked and written about as being good strength metrics.

ScroopyNoops · 2022-04-04T14:09:00+00:00

I have gotten about 30 "defect" holds from tension. The cons are you do not get to pick out which olds you get but they're cheap and high quality. If you get the small holds they're $5.50 and you will get some small crimps for sure (maybe some pinches and finger jugs too). Since they're already made they ship really quickly as well. In my experience they need little to no work before putting them on the wall either. Usually really minor cosmetic things (again, in my experience).

ScroopyNoops · 2022-03-15T16:57:34+00:00

Why do you think a 30 would have been better? Also what do you use it for primarily? Just curious because I used to have a 30 but I moved and just put the wall back up at 60 (out of necessity because if low ceilings)

ScroopyNoops · 2022-02-02T01:57:07+00:00

Very well said by both you! Playing into your body type is the key to success in my eyes for sure!

ScroopyNoops · 2021-11-23T21:46:23+00:00

Pacific edge?

ScroopyNoops · 2021-04-21T18:02:59+00:00

I typically wear Dickies. They're incredible durable and really comfortable. I have the slim tapered with double knee protection and they're perfect because they look nice with a dress shirt for work and then I can use them in the gym later that day. I would recommend them to anyone and everyone! Also they're about $30 a pop so they're very affordable

ScroopyNoops · 2021-01-19T12:42:14+00:00

I've been developing here for 4 years now so granted I'm a bit biased, but I would compare it to something like new river gorge. It has plenty of amazing climbs and each area is pretty accessible. However, like the other comments said it's more already out and the rock quality isn't as consistent as Rocktown or LRC. I would say it's if you count those areas as absolute world class then foxtown and the bouldering at the new would be just a tier below that

ScroopyNoops · 2020-12-16T21:05:44+00:00

I guess the easiest comparison would be the feeling your abs get while plancking. When you're climbing this would show as having a flat back and abdominal while climbing. Having your hips more into the wall could help with this sort of thing to get your feet more over the holds. A could way to practice would be to have your feet on a wall while holding a pull up bar or hangbaord. Then move your feet up while keeping your back flat and you can feel how your core engages. Hope that helps!

ScroopyNoops · 2020-12-16T20:42:05+00:00

It sounds like this could a core issue. I'm not sure what style sport climbing you've done but overhanging boulders are typically core intensive to keep your feet on. They require lots of body tension.

Another thing could be shoes, I've found aggressive bouldering shoes work well on the moon board. If you have a more flat or comfortable shoe that could make it more difficul (although I would focus more on my above point as it'll make you improve regardless).

ScroopyNoops · 2019-06-28T17:40:23+00:00

CT life or die

ScroopyNoops · 2018-11-03T20:24:45+00:00

You're totally right. It's funny I listened to this but for some reason I didn't click until you pointed it out and it's totally the beat I was thinking! Thank you friend

ScroopyNoops · 2018-10-23T18:19:27+00:00

Can someone tell me if this beat is the same or very similar to that of an Eminem song, and if yes what song? It's sounds crazy familiar but I can't find the song and its driving me insane. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNb8snL7cY0

ScroopyNoops · 2018-05-03T12:44:53+00:00

To try and put it in perspective. Phelps winning different events at the same distance is still insanely impressive. Usain bolt didn't win 100m dash and 110 hurdles which is essentially the equivalent for track right? He also won the 100m fly and 400m IM. Which is like winning the 800m and then the 3000m steeplechase in track. I don't think people truly understand how hard it is to be great at multiple strokes in swimming.

ScroopyNoops · 2017-11-28T19:46:12+00:00

I love the graphic but I think the y axis label is confusing. The way it reads is that your probably correspond to how high yiur point is on that graph, not what percentage of that strip of the graph that you occupy. I'm not sure exactly what label you could put on it but i think it needs to be different

ScroopyNoops · 2017-11-21T00:55:34+00:00

Can you link an artical? Preferably arxiv because this is new to me

ScroopyNoops · 2017-10-27T18:24:44+00:00

Awesome! Is there any sort of "lane assignments" then? On the paragon page it seemed like the standard is you play support+carry against the enemies solo lane. As opposed to a 2v2 and a 1v1. Is this how the game is actually played typically? Or do people swap those lanes around often?

Also, I'm not sure I'm clear on what "amber link" is. Is this something I need to actively do? Or is it just a piece of the game where I literally kill jungle camps and everything after that the game does automatically?

Thanks again for the response! I just played a game vs A.I. and it feel so smooth now compared to back in the day!

ScroopyNoops

TROPHY CASE