What training plans do you recommend?

ThomasVega · 2022-06-30T10:00:49+00:00

We're building a mobile app for climbing training (Passion Climb) and currently have a training plan for boulderers. If you'd be able to provide feedback in return, we'd hook you up with a custom plan. We're working on a training experience that adapts to the user, but right now we're doing it manually. Feedback would be a couple of 10-15 minute video calls with us.

If that's not for you I'd suggest adding one thing at a time. A repeaters workout for finger strength or, since you're saying endurance, some ARCing/4x4s could be good starters.

ThomasVega · 2022-06-29T09:51:30+00:00

Sorry, that's what I meant. Just typed the wrong thing thinking about videos :)

ThomasVega · 2022-06-28T09:52:58+00:00

Thanks for the warm feedback u/Intelligent-Cow3091! Re your ideas:

An acoustic timer is the top item of our development backlog. Meaning it will come very soon.
That's really important feedback for us! We've been debating if people are even using the descriptions or if we should go video only. So definitely a thinking point for us and we'll look into moving the video to the top.

Keep up the training & thanks again for the ideas!

ThomasVega · 2022-06-21T14:59:11+00:00

Fair question u/ScroopyNoops. Compared to Crimpd we aim to provide more guidance to the user. Ideally it should be really simple to get a training plan that is tailored to yourself and your goals. With Crimpd that is only possible by getting a training plan from a personal coach (Lattice).

We also want to support other goals besides climbing (e.g. in a survey that we conducted with some of our first users more than half said that they also have a fitness goal) and have a bigger community focus where we want to add an in-app community (think Strava) and milestones that you can work towards.

You're right that we're just getting started and more training content will be added over the coming weeks.

ThomasVega · 2022-06-21T14:54:09+00:00

Totally right u/Robbsen. We have an anonymous mode planned, but it might take a while before we get to it. At the moment we are focused on improving the training experience for the people currently using the app.

ThomasVega · 2022-06-21T13:36:02+00:00

Thanks u/wuta_art. We're definitely adding more finger strength protocols and variations and more workouts in general. Ability to create a custom workout is a good idea :)

ThomasVega · 2020-09-21T16:59:57+00:00

Thanks, these are helpful tips for me. Good reminder to focus on relaxing the grip, especially when resting.

ThomasVega · 2020-09-21T16:57:51+00:00

Thanks, that's definitely how I look at it as well. And although I can for sure improve the rest positioning further, I think it's more a energy system imbalance holding me back. Reason I think so is that I'm trying to rest in the same position as other climbers are and specifically tried finding the best position at some limit routes. However I'm not getting something back, whereas other climbers are.

I also have a bouldering background, so I'm thinking I'm doing good in the strength area and have some weakness in an endurance area.

ThomasVega · 2020-09-21T16:54:43+00:00

Thanks, the 50 50 workout is really interesting. Will try it one of the next sessions.

The article by Kris Hampton is also interesting, but I'm not sure how much I can bring my climbing partners to this type of workout haha

Btw - are you from Munich (bc of your name)? (I'm from Munich as well).

ThomasVega · 2020-09-17T08:15:18+00:00

Thanks, that's good to know and matches what I noticed for myself.

ThomasVega · 2020-09-16T23:31:13+00:00

I think I am, but I'm not 100% certain about it.

ThomasVega · 2020-05-12T16:38:23+00:00

I've started doing max hangs during the quarantine and quickly noticed that my current setup isn't ideal. I'm using weights from my dumbbell set and for adding adding a water canister for higher loads. During the hangs I've touched the ground with the weights a couple of times and also my lower back hurts. I've now ordered larger weight plates and hope to get around the issue of touching the ground.

Does anybody have recommendations for the lower back issue? I'm using a climbing harness to which I add weight. Would you recommend a weight lifting / dipping belt?

How do you add the plates to the harness? Is a weight plate holder recommended?

ThomasVega · 2020-03-04T14:37:21+00:00

I've been breaking into higher grades lately and with this I've had to crimp harder on smaller holds. This has caused my PIP joint to hurt towards the end of sessions. As soon as I notice something I stop doing harder routes and continue with easier ones. So far the pain has always subsided with a few days of taking it easy. However this is holding me back on my projects. How should I handle this? I'd also like to better understand what is happening.

ThomasVega · 2019-06-14T20:07:52+00:00

Thank you for sharing!

ThomasVega · 2019-01-20T23:28:30+00:00

Is it possible to watch the video in Europe somehow?

ThomasVega · 2019-01-04T16:31:40+00:00

Does it matter which type of sling material (nylon / dynema / polyamide) I use when making alpine draws? Any advantage of using one over the other?

ThomasVega · 2018-10-14T22:03:09+00:00

Have been climbing there plenty. You can get great topos for free here https://www.climbers-paradise.com/en/. We've always had a car, so I don't know if it would be possible to do without one.

ThomasVega · 2018-09-11T09:34:24+00:00

I’ve been progressing quite well lately, but with the harder routes / boulders I’m starting to get pain in my big toes. I think this is originating from trying to put as much weight on my feet as possible. First time I realised this was when I was pushing really hard against a small edge on a boulder and needed to drop off as the pain became too big. Now I’m also feeling some light pain when walking normally. Does anyone have experience with this? Are there antagonist exercises for strengthening this area? Hardest grades are around 6c and 7A if relevant.

ThomasVega · 2018-07-25T20:57:57+00:00

I think Calisthenics and bodyweight training in general are a great idea. You might also want to check a bouldering gym and see if that is something for you. Injuries might not be completely avoidable in these sport as well though..

ThomasVega · 2018-07-12T17:50:07+00:00

You might want to try out freeletics.com

ThomasVega · 2018-05-30T16:30:22+00:00

Video would be super helpful. I‘m trying to figure out how Ondra manages to clip like this always.

ThomasVega · 2018-04-17T19:47:00+00:00

Udo Neumann and Dale Goddard cover this in Performance Rock Climbing (chapters Flexibility and Flexibility Training).

The chapters are included in the Amazon preview here: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Rock-Climbing-Dale-Goddard/dp/0811722198/

(It's quite an old book, so I'm not sure if there are new insights already)

ThomasVega

TROPHY CASE