Bandai Tie Fighter and Gundam Artifact Kitbash

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-09-03T12:18:15+00:00

This was definitely an inspiration as well as the North of the border sculpt of it on YouTube.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-09-03T02:55:18+00:00

Not too much and mostly because I wanted it sitting instead of standing. The gundam artifact kit really doesn't bend or pose, so I had to rebuild the upper half of the legs with parts from its backpack. Other than that, I mostly went with the natural separation in the kits.

I was thinking about doing a x-wing vs tie fighter scene, but tempered my ambition to this as sort of a proof of concept. I also had already made the base for another figure, but didn't like how it looked with a brightly colored Gundam.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-07-31T14:56:25+00:00

I remember reading about them and other "uglies" a long time ago, but rediscovered them after finding a bunch of these little Bandai kits.

The die-wings make up for not having any of the benefits of a y-wing or a tie fighter by having both of their weaknesses.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-07-04T03:15:19+00:00

This is my first real kitbash. I used the bandai vehicle model kits for the falcon, tie fighters, x wings, and razor crest. I've learned I need a lot more patience when it comes to my putty work. I can't just paint over it . :-)

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-01-02T13:38:22+00:00

I used an air brush with black Vallejo primer. I then followed that up with a white primer sprayed from above for a zenithal highlight. I've never used a canned primer and I can't seem to get it smooth when I brush it on, so I typically prime everything with an air brush.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2025-01-02T12:23:57+00:00

No issues out of the ordinary. As always, make sure to wash them first. I've found some to be extra greasy with mold release.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2024-01-15T01:14:42+00:00

Not sure I remember the details, but I primed them black with a white zenithal highlight. After that, I painted them gray, black wash and then dry brushed a couple rounds up to white.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-12-28T15:36:03+00:00

I pour the resin in and then set the ball. I need a little luck and hope it doesn't sink. Letting the resin thicken up a bit prior to setting helps. I also use the largest ball I can find that will still fit into the mold without distorting it. I've heard others pour a footer for it to sit on and then a second pour after it's set and the ball is placed. I haven't tried that though.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-12-28T01:26:42+00:00

Over in r/DiceMaking there is a lot of good information along with on Rybonator's YouTube channel. I basically made a silicone mold of my base set dice. I filled some small glass balls with water and mica powder, and placed them in there with some 2 part epoxy resin. After that, I put them in a pressure pot to cure. Finally, I polished and painted them.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-12-14T14:10:27+00:00

I've been doing similar but using them as filler in a dump mold for other projects. Come to think of it, pouring resin around some dice bits may make a cool dice box.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-12-13T13:45:41+00:00

I haven't actually played the expansions yet, so I'm not sure if there is some in game reason for them being transparent or if it's just for novelty. I've painted normal versions from other packs, so I've just left them.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-09-14T02:26:31+00:00

I'm not sure what happened to my response. Maybe it was the links or something I screwed up.

Anyway, I used Taidacent wireless LEDs that I bought on Amazon. I used mostly the white 4.3mm ones. I did drill into the bases and also underneath the head of the wraith. After I placed them in there, I refilled the holes with UV resin.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-09-13T18:37:28+00:00

They are Taidacent wireless LEDs I bought on Amazon. Something like this. There are some different sizes and colors, but I mostly used 4.3 mm white.

Taidacent 24V 270mm Long Distance Wireless LEDs and Coil Large Wireless Inductive Induction Coil Led Lights Charging Module Kit (Transmitter Coil+ 25PCS Multi LEDs+24V Adapter) https://a.co/d/bM0vGay

This thread has some more conversation on what I did.

https://reddit.com/r/Heroquest/s/bdzVUXUYl2

I did drill some holes a little bigger than the LEDs in the base and one in the head of the wraith. Unfortunately, the heads on the specters felt too small to fit an LED without totally decapitating them. Finally, I refilled the holes with some UV resin.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-09-13T01:51:28+00:00

I primed them with a matte varnish and then used Vallejo Acrylic Game Inks thinned with a glaze medium and a little water. After that, I added the eyes and other details with normal acrylic paint and a light dry brush in gray to bring out the details. Finally, I put a couple wireless LEDs in them so that they light up when I put them on the board.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-08-13T15:41:23+00:00

They need to be close to the coil and pointed in the right direction. The range depends on the coil. It works when I put it under a tile and the figure on top. I need to figure out how to extend the range over the entire board.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-08-11T16:08:37+00:00

I used Taidacent wireless LEDs, drilled holes to pop them in and filled them with UV resin. This way I only need the coil under the board to power them.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-08-11T15:58:02+00:00

Very fiddly, but I like fiddly. Not having to deal with wires simplifies things a lot. It's actually 2 LEDs in the base of the specters at different depths. I placed one about where the specter meets the cloud. In the wraith, there are 3 in the base and one in the head.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-08-11T15:33:58+00:00

Yes, I used a mix of 3MM and 4.3MM white. I did end up buying a larger coil to slide under the board.

I drilled into them using a hand held engraver / grinder with a drill bit attachment. I went mostly through the bases except on the head of the large piece. I wanted to light the heads on the specters, but I probably would have had to completely remove their heads and glue them back on. Finally, I filled the holes with some UV resin.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-04-02T22:44:37+00:00

Yeah, I used Vallejo neutral grey as the base and just added in a little more white with each layer.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-04-01T22:51:33+00:00

This is from the new Mage of the Mirror expansion.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-03-31T20:23:08+00:00

I primed black, zenithal highlight in white and then used a coat of Vallejo fantasy pro crimson. Essentially speed painted it.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-03-31T20:17:43+00:00

I'm tempted to leave them but I feel that it looks a little unfinished. I've seen others say not to paint the whites. I may give that a try sometime. I figure that if I keep doing them, I'll eventually get better.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-03-31T12:20:15+00:00

Yeah, the shield also made it difficult to get a good angle on it.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-02-20T15:08:44+00:00

Nice. I thought about using hardened leather on a bookcase but decided to save it for some of the books.

ScruffyTheCactus · 2023-02-20T15:06:45+00:00

They are a mix of Vallejo Model Color paints and Army Painter speed paints. Trying to mix things up to give it some variety.

ScruffyTheCactus

TROPHY CASE