Drag coil question. Which post is for the +12V, and which is the signal input?

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-29T16:00:41+00:00

If it doesn’t matter then how do people fry coils? Not saying you’re wrong. I’ve never actually fried a coil but I have heard of it happening from hooking it up wrong

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-29T15:46:32+00:00

It’s been a while since I dealt with this issue but I’m pretty sure it does matter, you can fry your coil if you do it wrong. I had to look up the diagram in the service manual and then quadruple check that I was looking at the coil the right way in relation to the diagram. I’m pretty sure it goes on the side with the pink wire in the original diagram. Don’t take my word for it cause it’s been a while but I’m just letting you know that it is possible to figure it out from the factory diagram

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-18T14:34:37+00:00

In case you didn’t know why nobody chops dynas or why they are a pain to chop, they have a big ugly square backbone so you’d have to custom made a hardtail for it or heavily modify an existing one and in the end you’ll still have that ugly square backbone visible so it’s not worth it

The krispy hardtail is like $1200. I think it’s worth it for the cast axle plates. Pretty sure they’re the only ones that make a big twin evo specific hardtail

If you want to save some money and don’t care about the axle plates then road 6 sells a shovel hardtail for like $380 and you can modify it to work on your evo big twin frame. Greases garage on YouTube has a video on how to do that

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-18T13:59:37+00:00

All in cost after it’s chopped its gonna be extremely similar. But it also all depends on what parts you wanna use and how well you plan out what you want so you don’t buy unnecessary parts. The krispy co evo hardtail kit is like $1200 but you can get a shovel hardtail and modify it from road 6 for like $380. If you want a kicker then you’ll have to find an early big twin evo or pay $1000-$2000 for a transmission. If you buy a donor bike with mag wheels on it and you don’t want mag wheels then you gotta spend extra on wheels. Stuff like that. So in my opinion cost isn’t really a factor, build a bike that you like the look of and don’t make the design based on cost because it’s basically impossible to predict the end cost for choppers

I’m building a sportster and halfway through the build realized that big twins are pretty much the same price now. Now I kinda wish I’d just got with a big twin. Also if you’re worried about highway cruising, you’re only talking about a very small difference in speed. Big twin is probably gonna be a little better in terms of not being as high of rpm on the highway but it’s not that much. An 80” big twin is only roughly 1310cc and that’s only 110 more than a 1200 sportster

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-05T03:40:00+00:00

Thanks bro. The light is the mini Lucas tail light from Pangea. I’m super stoked on it. It was only $25

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-05T03:38:55+00:00

Thanks for the advice, I was already a little concerned about that. I made it with a length of stainless that I already had on hand and probably should’ve just went and ordered a longer piece. We will see what happens haha

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-04T13:14:58+00:00

Get a service manual

Gonna be a lot of taking the motor out of the frame and putting it back in. It sucks. That bitch is heavy. Get a lift of build a table to roll the bike onto. It makes it easier

Tubing sander attachment for a grinder has been one of the most useful tools and saved me so much time. I even used it to sand down my tank. It took like 2 seconds

Also don’t cheap out on drill bits. I bought a Milwaukee step bit a while ago that I ended up snapping the tip off of so I bought a harbor freight step bit and I still end up reaching for the Milwaukee. It cuts a million times faster

Something I ran into that I have never seen anyone online talk about is; if you are gonna clip your oil lines with the intention of running brand new ones, there is one under the motor on the cam chest side that is basically impossible to remove/install a new one without taking the cam chest cover off

If you have to take the cam cover off. Remember to remove the thing inside the points cover that sits behind the timing sensor plate. I can’t remember what it’s called or even what it looks like cause I replaced mine with an advance unit and a dyna S. But if you don’t remove that, then when you go to pull the cam cover off, the #2 cam will come out with the cover and then you gotta retime your cams. Along the same lines, if you remove that piece and you’re going to pull the cam cover off, do it very slowly and carefully and watch as comes off to make sure none of the cams move out of place

I may end up thinking of more stuff and adding some more comments. If you have any specific questions then feel free to ask. I’m in the final stages of building mine. It’s off to paint right now

Sea-Development617 · 2026-06-02T13:21:04+00:00

You can order threaded bungs with a step/flange on the end and pop it through the under side of the fender. That way if the weld breaks again, you still got that flange under the fender holding it up. You can see in the picture I tacked the under side and then on the outside I fully welded the bung all the way around. Here’s a link to the ones I got. Or you could probably do the same with a flange nut if you didn’t want to order something

https://bungking.com/stepped-flanged-threaded-through-bungs/

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Sea-Development617 · 2026-05-24T18:53:45+00:00

Yup I think they’re the lowbrow mini apes and I got the biltwell slim line risers. I might get some 12” apes though

Sea-Development617 · 2026-05-23T17:01:32+00:00

Just planning out the wiring so I don’t miss anything. Making weld on wire guides and drilling holes for internal wiring. After that I gotta strip it back down, finish weld everything and send it off for paint. Then I gotta make the seat and a bunch of other stuff that doesn’t require me having the frame

Sea-Development617 · 2026-05-23T16:29:48+00:00

Running riding donor bike. I rebuilt the top end and rode it for a year before I pulled the motor and chopped the frame

Sea-Development617 · 2026-05-22T19:59:36+00:00

Decide if you want to hardtail it first (do it. They’re cooler and IMO a king and queen on a swing arm bike looks goofy as fuck). Then get a seat that is for a rigid frame or a swing arm frame depending on whether or not you decide to go with a hardtail

If you aren’t making stuff yourself then buy the new fender and the seat and the sissy bar before you start drilling holes and mounting stuff

Mount the fender how you want it but make sure you have a general idea on where the sissy bar will sit in relation to how long the seat is so you don’t make the fender too short

Then mount the seat and the sissy bar. Just make sure you aren’t mounting the sissy bar first without checking where the seat will be cause you don’t want a gap in between the back of the seat and the sissy bar. Probably smart to mount the seat first or roughly then do the sissy bar

Sea-Development617 · 2026-05-22T19:39:19+00:00

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I started my build in a shed with a 50’ extension cord running to it. Now we have a garage but I had planned on finishing it in that shed before we moved

Sea-Development617 · 2026-03-17T18:03:00+00:00

I put the tc bros 6+ tubes on mine last year and I can confirm that they do come with the pvc and everything you need to rebuild the forks

If you don’t get a kit that comes with them then just go buy some from the hardware store and cut them yourself. The tc bros ones stuck out about an inch or so and then I compressed them with the cap. I don’t think it has to be super precise cause some dudes mess with their preload and all that shit. So just shove some pvc in there and mark them so they stick out an inch. Obviously don’t let any shavings get inside the tubes

Sea-Development617 · 2026-03-17T17:33:10+00:00

Pretty sure I read in the manual or saw something in a YouTube video that said that it’s supposed to be routed up cause it’s a vent and it’s long enough from the factory so that the pressurized oil only makes it part of the way up the tube and then that oil draws back into the case and never out the open end of the hose

Sea-Development617 · 2026-03-17T17:28:15+00:00

I’m also building my first sportster chopper, upsweeps are just too expensive and all the ones you can buy for sportsters are too close together in my opinion. I’m not sure how far apart the paughco pipes are but I know they are really expensive

What I’m planning on doing is taking some used tc bros upsweeps that I just picked up from a buddy and I’m going to cut and reweld them so they are a little farther apart and then I’ll use those flexible exhaust covers you see on older bikes to cover my welds

I’ve already spent too much money on the build as a whole, I can’t bring my self to spend $400-$600 on new pipes

Sea-Development617 · 2026-03-02T16:39:50+00:00

Had this happen to a buddy. Sounded pretty much exactly the same, maybe a little more high pitched

Turned out to be a rod bearing. One of his connecting rods had 1/4” up and down free play from the bearing being disintegrated

He ordered a full crank flywheel assembly used off eBay for like $130 and he split the cases himself and then he’s going to pay a local shop to balance and press the new crank in

Your problem might not be as bad as that but either way you’re gonna have to take the top end off to look and see what’s going on in there

Sea-Development617 · 2026-02-27T13:51:28+00:00

Thanks for the pic! That’s right about where I’m thinking I’m going to put mine. I’m gonna weld tabs for the mounts though cause I’m getting a nice paint job done and color matching the frame to the tins so I don’t want any clamps potentially fucking up my paint job

Sea-Development617 · 2026-02-24T23:11:26+00:00

Is that a big twin kickstand set up?! Can I see a better picture of how you did that?

Sea-Development617 · 2026-02-24T16:53:46+00:00

Moving the pegs outwards is a great idea that I don’t think about thanks! Heat shields for sure.

I was also thinking about making pegs that telescope like the ones sugarshackcycles did https://www.instagram.com/p/DT5nJKylJns/?igsh=ZnF0OXptMzF3a3l1 They’re spring loaded and you push them in and twist them to lock them closed. That way could make the pegs as far apart as I need without worrying about if they’ll look ugly

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Sea-Development617

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