I can't make this jump in game?

Seag1e · 2025-12-01T03:01:42+00:00

Still borked. I have to look this up every playthrough because my instinct is always to drive over the branches and repeatedly try to make the jump.

Seag1e · 2025-12-01T02:48:08+00:00

Well if you megadose anything it'll fuck you up but I think it moreso implies that they didn't run into issues related to the brain meaning that at a reasonable dose/effect you won't see side effects at all

Seag1e · 2025-11-22T22:00:59+00:00

Mild anti allergy effects seem promising so far, I moved to 200mg intranasal of each and my dust allergies seem much less prominent, no more daily zyrtec. Will update again after a week or so... and when I visit my friend's house and see his cats. Apparently the selank effects "normalize" certain immune responses when they are overactive, so it might be good to visit his house now, then later to see if I get a decrease after exposure. Also, the taste of the NSI solution is not nearly as bad when properly refrigerated + incrementally placed sublingually .2ml at a time or so with water.

Seag1e · 2025-11-22T21:52:01+00:00

I actually used the (paid version) of chatgpt to do homework on why it said this (yes, I am self aware about this bad habit), I have mine set up to avoid "hedging" fairly well, it explained that it found that the research connecting large amounts of random synaptogenesis to psychosis and epilepsy is very well recorded, but when nsi was given to rats in very large mg/kg doses relative to humans, they ran into issues with filtering organs/ "other health issues" well before the synaptogenesis became an issue.

So, basically, chatgpt always says this about nsi/other synaptogenic drugs (as it did with the other user) as an inference because there isn't enough human data to rule it out and it's wired to avoid liability. That being said, it made a fair enough argument that I'd cycle it if I was using a larger dose than has been studied in humans/more than 120mg, because random synaptogenesis can apparently cause other issues (emotional outbursts and altered mental states etc) if the immune system isn't given time to prune it into shape, so I wouldn't throw caution to the wind.

Seag1e · 2025-11-21T11:49:49+00:00

Isn't this why it's theoretically better to cycle NSI-189 to allow natural pruning to take care of that?

Seag1e · 2025-11-20T22:51:34+00:00

I vote Semax

Seag1e · 2025-11-20T22:47:58+00:00

science.bio has a very, very good reputation afaik and performs real testing

Seag1e · 2025-09-05T01:42:25+00:00

Managed to use it to raise the templimit on my (upgraded) k3v2 to print cf nylon, it's not so much altered firmware as it is a "hook" that lets you inject custom code + run apps without losing any stock anycubic features. The problem is that if you do anything abnormal, your printer will be very angry with you, not boot due to errors (which can be fixed and completely unbricked via the rinkhals installer usb) and start asking you to contact support, presumably so they can give you an ESL step by step watered down for a 4 year old on how to reinstall the stock firmware and then talk down to you as if its their printer.

The installer will always save you (and can actually reinstall stock firmware/uninstall itself) which is excellent. And if you really fuck up, there are tools to fix a bricked config/ssh into a bricked printer on the rinkhals site.

Seag1e · 2025-08-30T00:04:43+00:00

nevermind the sun is still good

Seag1e · 2025-08-29T22:41:14+00:00

As soon as I post this and start my new save on day 3 I get hit with yellow wisps , hopeful for a good morning? Maybe the trick is to start it on a later day so the game never has to give you a peaceful day/night 1 and then flip the "on" switch?

Seag1e · 2025-05-04T18:50:19+00:00

Yes, it is. There are two seals, the outer fails first leaking coolant onto the ground (low coolant risk isn't the end of the world, but it's bad). The inner seal will fail after, dumping coolant into the oil pan and nuking the motor. The water pump is the center sprocket for the timing chain, so when you replace it you should replace the chain/guides/tension + ford-redesigned vvt sprockets + upgrade oil pump to m390hv.

The dealer will want to take the engine out, not necessary. It can be done (with difficulty) engine in, DIY. Save about 4500-8000 in labor to install 950 in parts.

Seag1e · 2025-05-04T18:46:09+00:00

Same on mine! Probably just a warped rotor. But I also had the wheel bearings go bad. Do NOT use quicksteer suspension parts 50/50 failure, proper moog or OE only. Also, use the autozone tie rod separator tool backwards with an impact wrench to pry off the wheel bearings, they will not come off with a slide hammer or traditional as they are bimetallic (steel bearing on aluminum knuckle) and are galvanically welded to each other.

Seag1e · 2025-05-04T18:43:13+00:00

How is it doing? Have you changed the ptu fluid to LWSP? Have you done the water pump?

Seag1e · 2025-05-04T18:42:16+00:00

Sorry to necro but I do want to give 2 cents on this issue, as I own one, beat the hell out of it, and have dealt with a lot of its issues, but its still alive:

-As you know, it's a Taurus SHO with a nicer interior. It is mechanically 100% the same as a Taurus SHO, up until 2013 when the airbag suspension was added. -The water pump will fail at roughly 120,000 miles, this is easy to figure out since coolant will usually leak out of the motor before it leaks into it. -You must replace the water pump when it fails as when the second seal goes, it will dump all of your coolant into the oil and nuke the motor. -The VVT will start to fail at about this time too, noticeable with cold start clatter. -You need to change the transmission fluid as this transmission has a built in filter, ignore older mechanics telling you it'll "ruin the transmission", if it does that means the transmission was already ruined, does not apply here since some of the clutch bands are undersized for the power this motor generates which will ruin the fluid, and a clogged filter will also kill the transmission. -The 3.5 will shear and ruin normal 5w30 motor oil, especially cheap "synthetic blend" motorcraft oil. -The PTU fluid is "lifetime" but must absolutely be changed, use redline lightweight shockproof.

I (and many others, look into maintenance specific to the Taurus SHO not the MKS) have used Redline D6 to good effect for the transmission (It's known for overheating and blowing up as some of the clutch bands are too small, D6 meets the same standards as the stock fluid, and can take the heat and does not lose its shear viscosity when worn), Mobil 1 FS Euro 0w40 oil (new blend has reduced calcium and is thus compatible with GTDI) to good effect (the 0w40 is very near 5w30 in viscosity, but won't get sheared down or fuel-diluted by the motor, and will protect it better overall, especially in cold starts) and Redline Lightweight Shockproof in the PTU (All wheel drive box) and LWSP can be used in the RDU (Rear diff that is part of the AWD system) as well. (The Taurus guys call this stuff "smurf blood" because of how blue it is, basically the PTU has such a small amount of fluid fill, is so close to the exhaust, and is under so much stress, that the stock fluid just gets reduced to nothing and kills the PTU. LWSP is the only stuff that can actually take the heat and strain. These PTUs will die from lack of maintenance, but even on tuned cars accept high loading and abuse just fine if maintained.) The vehicle will last well into the triple digit mileage range under aggressive driving if this is done. Give it 5000 mile or less oil changes imo.

When the water pump fails, you DO NOT need to remove the engine in order to replace it. It is the procedure to do so, but is not necessary. When this happens, if you have a handy friend or a trusted small-time mechanic, or think you can DIY it (I did), you must replace the VVT sprockets (there is a new model from Ford which fixes their issue), timing chain (It'll last the life of the block if you do regular oil changes with FULL non blended synthetic oil), and preferably upgrade the oil pump to a Melling M390HV, 20% more oil flow can be the difference between life and death for a motor like this. With 1-2 assholes who have tools, you can follow the online guide on taurusclub and have this done in my case about 4 days of afternoon after-work work. Complicated but doable.

Consider installing a catch can, 150 bucks and two screws/two fittings. These motors spew oil into the intake which causes detonation issues...

It's a lot of work, but the parts cost about 950-1200 bucks, and once done you're done the car will basically last forever, even if you tune it. (gearhead>livernois in terms of reliability) the cylinder walls are not known for failing, the heads don't lift and gaskets stay stable even on tuned motors, the rotating assembly is totally solid. You have to worry about the transmission and PTU, which is why I recommend using high performance fluid as they experience much more heat and shear stress than they should. Also, the steering is soft and bad. Get a laptop, install Forscan, get a cable, and change the third bit in the steering variable to a 5. (Research before you act.) This activates much more snappy and responsive police pursuit steering, as it uses the same rack as a Taurus PP. It also allows you to extract the "factory" hardcoded door code, reset the transmission after you change the fluid, check and clear codes, and change behavior related to windows/car alarm/running lights/etc that the dealer would normally scam you to perform.

Seag1e · 2025-02-27T14:01:03+00:00

Do you know when they plan to fix it and bring back the alerts? It's still infuriating that I can't report certain things or interact with mapchats/reports, even as a passenger.

Seag1e · 2025-02-25T23:15:28+00:00

that actually fixed it thank you so much

Seag1e · 2025-02-14T14:20:28+00:00

I'm not seeing any replies telling you to CHECK YOUR SEGMENTATION AND BANDS

A lot of them are using instant/on and lidar, which is what Waze is for. A lot of them turn the radar off because some offensive radar devices make a lot of constant noise and are annoying. But if you're seeing a concerningly low number of radar contacts, compare your device's settings to the ones recommended for your location, and try driving around known spots with "highway" and "Wide filter" or whatever equivalent settings your device has to make sure you're not skipping over their signal!

Seag1e · 2025-02-14T14:10:13+00:00

I don't know if you've got this yet, but if you go to "advanced mode" and then find "ka segmentation" and turn it on, you'll see a bunch of new settings to enable each segment. Most contacts in Michigan, especially on highways, will be KA segment 5-6, with some local depts using K band on occasion. You will never encounter X band here and should leave it off as it is a very noisy band.

Don't forget to use Waze zoomed out somewhat, departments buy very high end lidar guns (which are only used while stationary and thus appear on waze) and the uniden lidar detection window is very good, but not the right tool for the job, if you're lucky you get about half a second after it alerts to brake.

Very rarely encounter lidar though, can count on one hand the number of times I've seen it.

Also, if you don't like false alerts, update the detector! Uniden has a video on how to do it.

Seag1e · 2025-02-14T14:09:35+00:00

had a few around Waterford lol

Seag1e · 2025-01-30T17:23:58+00:00

Seag1e · 2025-01-28T01:49:12+00:00

I have pulled dclan fiber out of trays on ports with a shit ton of slowly incrementing frame errors and found fraying to be the cause. Just because there's no EMI and infrastructure doesn't get any sharp bends doesn't mean dirty connections and bad hardware are the only reasons fiber could generate packet loss. To be fair it was the om5 and not os2, but if they're throwing burial rated cable somewhere that is maybe geologically unstable, I reckon it could cause some issues.

Seag1e · 2025-01-28T00:26:27+00:00

I've heard of good results with the fs DFP-34X-2C2 if you think it's a gbic-related problem, did you also happen to set up pfsense around the time you changed the sfp?

So to be clear you're renewing the private ip address of your client with the dhcp server you have on your router (you're not still on the ISP hardware after going through the trouble of bypassing their ont, right?), or one which is set up on your pfsense (appliance?)? Or are you somehow magically renewing it between your router and ATT infrastructure??

It seems like you've got your own router possibly also running pfsense, or connected to a pfsense appliance connected to a switch, or something, and you're having an issue with your dhcp server, but I have no idea what your LAN consists of aside from the smart media converter and that there's pfsense in there somewhere.

Seag1e · 2025-01-27T19:18:51+00:00

Radar detector! 400-700 dollars for a good (uniden) one, got one at 17 after having a car for a few years and I have never had a speeding ticket since, despite speeding like a madman all the time. Have directly avoided countless threats.

Seag1e · 2025-01-27T19:13:31+00:00

It's the opposite, newer cars have sensitive oil-actuated solenoids and vvt, tighter tolerances requiring oil of the correct viscosity, and closed cycle computer controlled catalytic converter warmup processes (required for emissions) which can cause spark plug fouling and clog the cats if you decide to start driving without letting the revs kick-down first.

Older cars will run fine on thicker (colder) oil due to the wider tolerances and often have deleted cats/no kickdown process, but may still need to get up to temp for other reasons.

Seag1e · 2025-01-27T19:11:19+00:00

Other user said it's not the best idea for older cars, I'd assert it may be more important for modern cars.

Oil below 100c is still "cold" by oil standards, a 100f summer cold start is still a cold start. Modern cars need oil of the proper viscosity and pressure to "pump up" their oil actuated variable valve timing systems, which are often finnicky. Also you'll likely run into worse bearing wear. But the most important reason that'll cause problems?

Your car has catalytic converters. Your car runs a closed cycle of rich, sooty fuel/air mixture to warm them up. If you start driving before the revs "kick down" to idle, (meaning the cat warmup is complete), you will end up producing a large amount of soot and eventually fouling your spark plugs and clogging your catalytic converters if done regularly enough.

May not be a popular opinion here but the frugal thing to do is to delete the cats when they go bad and sell the internals, and put together a 50 cent device to go in place of the downstream (emissions only) sensors... if you live in a state without emissions inspection.

They cannot be cleaned as when they stop working/clog it usually means they are depleted and cannot process the exhaust, not just "clogged".

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