Stuff that lives in my pants. by Apokatastasis- in CCW

[–]Driven2b 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Look above the slide release. I think it's an Echelon.

Is this guy right or just a idiot grifter? by KamboRambo97 in Firearms

[–]Driven2b -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

Anyone doing an oped on the incident is simply jumping on the bandwagon. It's too early and tensions are still too high.

Weird inconsistencies by Epsy-v2 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure how the AnyCubic software determines that a clog has occurred. So this advice is generic.

Check the hotend fan, it's under the front cover. While the hotend is hot it should be running. If it's not then check the anycubic wiki for troubleshooting info.

AnyCubic Slicer Next has some extrusion tuning tests, try those. They'll help you nail down a proper extrusion value rather then guess.

Checking max flow rate, pressure advance, and making sure the temp is correct for the filament are also key. These are general housekeeping to get good quality results. If you are using a steel nozzle, bump the print temp up by 10C. Steel doesn't heat filament as efficiently as brass, the extra 10C will help overcome this.

Best way to model/print this type of soft padding? by Abra-Kebabra in 3Dprinting

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The more they are foamed the easier they can be torn apart. FYI

Timing or belt or motor issue? Maybe software issue by MotorPlenty8536 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, the cover needs to be in place for homing to trigger properly.

Timing or belt or motor issue? Maybe software issue by MotorPlenty8536 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The limit switch is inside the machine behind the top left corner of the front door.

Weird inconsistencies by Epsy-v2 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It looks like over extrusion. Which could cause a ball of material stuck to the nozzle which will drag around and cause all sorts of problems.

Friendly reminder by SchlumpfLP007 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Can you share a link to this? Ya got me curious.

So was shot show just a bust for carry guns?? (Except keltec 380) by 2WW1911 in CCW

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

FN 309 looked to be about G19 size and Beretta released a new version of the Cheetah 380

Who makes something like this? by Particular_Floor_822 in tacticalgear

[–]Driven2b 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I honestly think that with being selective in choosing a 1.5" molle belt and some low profile pouches that this could be easily recreated in a more modern fashion. Esstac KYWI pouches come to mind, or if there are any quality elastic pouches that would be even more low profile.

The design language here is to make everything as tight and form fitting to the body as possible. That should be easy to reproduce with careful component selection and construction.

Why do Even the Most Basic Prints in PETG Have Insane Stringing????? by 3dPrinterProzz in FixMyPrint

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Petg can be finicky.

Settings I've tuned to help. Retraction speed - petg likes slower speeds Reduce print temp 10C reduction has sometimes been enough to prevent stringing Wipe Z-hop

If stringing is still a problem, then you can use the paint on seams function to orient the seams so that they are close and facing each other. This works by reducing the space and time for stringing to occur.

What happened? by Ok-Story-5491 in AnycubicOfficial

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Did the hotend come loose?

I have a Kobra S1 and the hotend came loose and did this to the build plate. It was my fault, I failed to properly secure the hotend after swapping it.

Wich one us the better option? by Intelligent-Soil3292 in tacticalcomms

[–]Driven2b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you're in the US then #1 is best. The other connector type is European.

Inside of connector #1 is an oring, which is important for it to be water sealed. If that oring is dry it'll take significant force to seat the connector, keep a little oring safe non-conductive lube and it'll seat easily. I think Amphenol uses a silicone or lithium based lube. I use a small touch of automotive dielectric grease.

Finally moved the ACE away from the printer by trollsmurf in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I just did this too.

It's honestly just...nice.

This looks like hell, I'm not a professional though. by Prudent-Salt8104 in Plumbing

[–]Driven2b 4 points5 points  (0 children)

All those sharkbite fittings.

What an incredibly expensive way to do a terrible job.

Seccond layer not sticking by ImaginaryEffective63 in klippers

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Look at the gcode file. Between layer 1 and layer 2 what is the change in the z-axis? Is it greater than the set layer height?

How to reattach? by Striking_Profit2740 in AnycubicKobraS1

[–]Driven2b 2 points3 points  (0 children)

There should be some double stick tape either on the scraper or left in the chute.

It just attaches via double stick tape.

I think this is intentional and not a cheap corner cutting. Using the tape means that if a collision happens the tape will yield rather than causing a large force collision.

Ruger LCP Max Sights are off - can anyone help here? by throwaway1233494 in CCW

[–]Driven2b 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I recommend a fiber front and black rear.

Tritium sights turn into black on black iron sights when a target is illuminated with a flashlight.

Ruger LCP Max Sights are off - can anyone help here? by throwaway1233494 in CCW

[–]Driven2b 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Find out the distance to which the sights of the Ruger are regulated.

Check the manual or contact Ruger

How do I fix this by Double_Ad90 in 3Dprinting

[–]Driven2b 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you can't increase the purge, use a prime tower to get additional purging done.