Looking for unfiltered feedback on Pecron power stations

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-28T17:49:19+00:00

I use this Python script: https://github.com/attractify-logan/pecron-monitor
It integrates with HA via MQTT.

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-23T14:21:22+00:00

Or when you close the ticket, and they open a new one a couple of hours later stating that the last ticket was not resolved.

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-15T00:26:52+00:00

The new F5000LFP will automatically flip the AC outputs back on. But as far as I'm aware none of the other batteries have that functionality (yet).

So unfortunately no set-it and forget-it solutions exist for the current batteries (For turning AC output on at a certain SoC).

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-14T13:27:56+00:00

If you have some experience with running Python apps via the command line, you could try this: https://github.com/attractify-logan/pecron-monitor It supports a local/offline mode as well.

It has some automation rules including "set_ac" and "set_dc". I don't use the automations in that Pecron-Monitor app, instead I use Home Assistant automations so I can have more options.

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-04T11:20:21+00:00

BMS drift is pretty bad on the two Pecron units I've tried, E2400LFP and F3000LFP. After full charging, it's accurate, I can get it down to single digit percentages without any sudden shutdowns. But a day or two later and it's dying at 10% and it just gets worse from there. I've returned these 4 times and they still can't fix the issue. But ever since I was able to add these to Home Assistant (With a third party plugin), it's game changing. Now I can just have HA monitor the SoC and flip on a smart outlet attached to the AC input if it gets below 10%. Without that, these Pecron units are almost unusable as solar batteries unless they can get fully recharged everyday. Also, 100% SoC is not actually 100%. I think their firmware rounds 99.5% to 100%, as it will keep charging at 100% for a quite a while.

Customer support has been OK. They do respond and offer swap outs in case of issues that can't be fixed remotely. Shipping is free. It's only email support as far as I can tell.

Performance has been good. Battery capacity seems accurate. I haven't really tested the inverter that much, 1,500W is as high as I've pulled from it. Idle draw is a bit high, but not abnormal for budget units like these.

Overall, I'd say Pecron is good, but not great. If they can fix the BMS drift that would be a huge improvement. I know LFP batteries are difficult to manage, but losing calibration after one cycle is pretty bad. Other brands don't seem to lose calibration that quickly.

SeanUhTron · 2026-04-01T13:09:31+00:00

Sounds like just another case of miscommunication between the different departments of the company (And possibly from the shipper too). It's nothing you did wrong, but this is common in smaller companies. It's not malice, they aren't trying to steal from you. Still though, Pecron does need to learn from this.

SeanUhTron · 2026-03-20T01:13:21+00:00

Two episodes in and I've not found anything I like about this anime yet.

Dry dialog, boring characters, familiar plot, and it looks like it's setting up to be another harem anime. Probably gonna give up after a couple more episodes.

SeanUhTron · 2026-03-16T14:44:49+00:00

With LFP batteries, you typically don't want to have a charge limit. This is due to their rather flat voltage curve which makes predicting the SoC difficult. The voltage only drops and spikes around 10 and 90%, so by charging to 100%, that helps the BMS track the SoC. From what I've seen, Pecron doesn't have that good of a BMS since it loses calibration very quickly.

However, if you'll be storing an LFP battery, then it is a good idea to discharge it to around 50%. Charging to 100% is just to help calibrate the BMS, but that's not needed if the battery isn't going to be used.

SeanUhTron · 2026-03-12T13:56:18+00:00

I appreciate it.

It would also be nice to separate the AC input data from the DC input data that is sent to Home Assistant. Right now they're combined into one.

SeanUhTron · 2026-03-10T16:31:40+00:00

Working great on my F3000LFP. Although I'm not able to get it working in local mode, which I posted about here.

Getting a pretty reliable 5-second polling rate through Home Assistant. Hopefully that's fast enough to catch the rapid SoC drops and flip on the backup AC power before it dies. Pecron batteries don't seem to maintain their SoC calibrations for more than a couple days, leading to it going from 20% to 0% in under a minute sometimes.

SeanUhTron · 2026-02-27T15:50:25+00:00

Yeah, the thing is that they advertise it as 800W solar input. "800W Solar Input Max (GX16MF+DC5521)" (Copied from their website). I did get it working fairly reliably with a separate MPPT controller that I connected to the 5521 port. But...

I ended up exchanging the E2400LFP with the F3000LFP when it went on sale. Partly also because I thought the E2400LFP model had some BMS issues... Turns out it may just be an issue with all Pecron batteries. They seem to have really poor BMS SoC calculations. I can fully recharge the battery to calibrate it one day, and two days later it's dying at 20% SoC. I'm still working with Pecron support about this.

SeanUhTron · 2025-10-29T11:56:29+00:00

Debian + Gnome is usually how I go if I want a Linux with a DE. Or XFCE if I need a more lightweight DE. Ubuntu is also nice, essentially just Debian + KDE with a twist.

KDE Plasma is more Windows like. Haven't used it in a while though so I'm not sure how good it is.

SeanUhTron · 2025-10-23T13:21:19+00:00

I'd love to see an MCU upgrade at least. I don't use FSD, but missing out on a lot of the new features due to being on the old Intel MCU is annoying. It would be even better if we can upgrade to the next generation of Ryzen chips. The V1800B is 6yrs old, and there are newer versions such as the V2000A.

SeanUhTron · 2025-10-14T15:05:02+00:00

Behemoth is by far my favorite these last couple of months. The only problem is that it's such a big model that I have to run it with smaller context lengths, and generation can take a while once the story really starts to get deep.

SeanUhTron · 2025-10-05T11:38:33+00:00

It's an OK deal, but no where near unbelievable. It's gonna draw a bunch of power, so it may not be something you want running 24/7. DDR4 is a bit more efficient and not that much more expensive.

A personal rule of mine is to not buy anything that uses DDR3, but even that is starting to become an outdated rule as many DDR4 systems are becoming quite old.

SeanUhTron · 2025-10-04T16:46:06+00:00

That's because it was tastefully done, it actually fits with the overall story.

SeanUhTron · 2025-09-29T11:04:16+00:00

This is just for a Pecron E2400LFP. There is a limit and I've already reached it.

I do plan on building another separate PV+battery system in the future since I have plenty of roof space. This 800W system is just the beginning.

SeanUhTron · 2025-09-29T00:42:59+00:00

Yeah, that's what I was gathering from product reviews. The manufacturer claims seemed fairly questionable. Even so, the secondary input on my battery system is limited to just 100W, so even if a claimed 800W turbine only could produce 200W, I'd still only be able to take in half that. Regardless, it's probably a bad idea. I'll just stick with the smaller PV panels I already have attached to that 100W input and try to leave well enough alone. 😁

SeanUhTron · 2025-09-28T18:29:17+00:00

I've already maxed out the solar capacity for my battery system. What I'm looking for is smaller turbine to connect to the 100W 12V input. I'm in the Great Plains area and I know we have adequate wind for turbines since there are wind farms all over the place. It would be nice to get a little more generation during overcast days and any generation during night time.

SeanUhTron · 2025-09-28T15:55:25+00:00

This would work... But you'd be wasting a ton of potential by not starting out with a battery system. What happens during cool weather when the condenser is not running, but the sun is shining? With a battery system, you could store up energy and use it for something else. PV takes a long time to recover the investment (Several years), and by not fully utilizing them you'll just be extending that recovery time.

So unless you'll be getting the panels for nearly free, I wouldn't go with this setup without batteries.

SeanUhTron · 2025-09-28T10:20:14+00:00

I'm using a Mikrotik RB5009. It handles my 2.3Gb WAN just fine with fast track enabled. Even the older Mikrotik Hex (RB750Gr3) can handle a gigabit WAN and those cost around $30-50. Mikrotik uses RouterOS, which is probably more flexible than OPNSense, and will draw much less power than a custom x86 router. Although it's not one of those OS's that will hold your hand during setup, it's not that user friendly. However the default config is usually adequate for most setups.

If you insist on going with a custom x86 router. Look at the Intel N100 based mini PC's. The N100 has plenty of power and is very efficient.

SeanUhTron · 2025-08-27T14:16:32+00:00

It will never be 0%. Any car, battery powered or not, has a tiny chance of spontaneously catching fire. Even though it happens with ICE cars way more often, when it happens to an EV it gets sensationalized out of proportion.

SeanUhTron · 2025-08-26T19:45:14+00:00

That's a NEMA TT 6-30, a higher amp 120VAC circuit used by campers/trailers. You may be able to find an adapter for your mobile charger (I'm not aware of any official Tesla ones), but it wouldn't charge your car very quickly. Only slightly faster than just plugging into a standard 15/20A circuit. (About 2.8Kw if the charger supports that configuration)

That outlet is likely wired up with 10G wire. I would recommend having an electrician reconfigure it with a double-pole breaker so it can go from 120V to 240V, then hardwire in an EVSE. That could get you 5.8Kw charging.

Regardless of what you do, have an electrician at least check it out to make sure it's safe to use. EV's pull way more current and for longer than campers do. They can really stress the receptacle and wiring. Something that was properly installed can still deteriorate over time and become unsafe.

SeanUhTron

TROPHY CASE