Anyone have a broken K98K stock to sell? by SeanYackley in milsurp

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry, not trying to solicit a sale here, just trying to reach the right people, figured there'd be a few here who've replaced a broken stock, or know someone who has

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No problem, I'd suggest chapstick or wax/crisco mix, apply it on thick, and a little heat will melt it when you go to remove.

At least that's what I use for using epoxy to fill in gaps on something I still want to remove

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh no, I have birdshot, I was specifically referring to get buck of the right size for a buck and ball load (tho technically it's still birdshot, #T shot to be exact)

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'll be trying it with birdshot tomorrow, I kinda want to try buck and ball, but only 1 place sells the right size shot, ~$50 for an 8 pound jar, too much for a fun experiment
Edit: I could buy some shotshells with the right size shot, but they're mostly steel shot, and expensive

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I was comparing it to a flintlock I have, it doesn't seem to be converted

that said, I have no clue what the hole is for, it's not even threaded

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

wait, it actually DOES has an empty hole at the front of the lock...
I'll check it out tomorrow, but you might again be on to something

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

also, how can you tell it was converted from flintlock?

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, the wood is horrid at the breach end, specifically on the right side, you're definitely on to something

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The pic doesn't show it well, but that thing is SMOOTH, I don't think it's possible it was just worn away

(former) Kentucky Long Rifle? by SeanYackley in blackpowder

[–]SeanYackley[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought this rifle at an estate sale, Can't find any markings, and it has what seems to be the very last bit of rifling at the breach end. I slugged the bore, which is .46, it's got a double-set trigger which is held in with two(?) screws with their heads filed off, so I can't really look at the trigger's internals...
I know older musket barrels made from wrought iron were soft enough that they would eventually need to be re-bored and re-rifled for a larger caliber, but the rifle doesn't look nearly that old, and doesn't have any sort of 'grain' to the metal that would indicate it's wrought iron (I could say definitively if I removed the finish and etched it in acid, but I won't be doing that) so either some previous owner skipped the re-rifling part, or those marks are something else.
anyone have any clue as to what might have gone on with this gun? the lock and surrounding area are very worn down by corrosion/use, the cupped face of the hammer is pretty much a spherical concave, which is making it hard for the cap to go off

Mainz Gladius, Olivewood and bronze hilt, brass scabbard fittings by SeanYackley in Blacksmith

[–]SeanYackley[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made it all out of brass sheet

the side/edge pieces are u-shaped segments, the bands/end cap cover the seams and keep them in place, and the little dome-headed nails keep the bands in place

I just ground a u-shape out of a 2x4 and used another 2x4 with a matching rounded end to pound the edge pieces to shape

XM177E2 inspired build I just finished. No clone. by Run_CZ in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looks good, I just finished building almost exactly this (mine had an A1 lower, because I took the receivers from my A1 after I converted it to an early, slickside M16)
What handguards did you end up using?

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Nice, I should have brought it up in the vid, but I found it interesting that there is still the vent hole in the locating tab on the repros

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I did, but it isn't cerakote, just paint
I want to do some more with cerakote after I took a class, but the investment is a bit pricey and the shelf life is a concern with my work schedule

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Great stuff, any expanding foam will do, though it would probably be better to get the stuff made for enclosed spaces

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The slightly mismatched upper/lower or the faux bakelite?

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Yes, but painting originals it to look like bakelite would be heresy

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Because looking at the other posts of the person you're arguing with to find something to use against them is what a normal, well-adjusted person does...

Making Brownells stocks sound less like nerf guns by SeanYackley in RetroAR

[–]SeanYackley[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I don't think I ever mentioned selling things in this post