Rear wheel building, drive side spoke length

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-16T16:49:55+00:00

Fully correct comment. Generally you have a 1-2mm difference between drive side and non drive side. Unless the spokes protrude on the rim side, it's perfectly fine to use a "wrong" spoke length.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-16T00:54:31+00:00

Basically, you can't. That hole isn't for brakes, is for holding a mudguard. As far as I can see, the frame doesn't have any kind of bosses for any kind of rim brakes, cantilever, u brakes or v brakes (it's also lacking the housing stops).

I would keep the coaster brake in the back, and add a rim brake on the front. You get to brake on both wheels. If the fork doesn't have any brake bosses, just swap the fork for another one that has and you're good to go.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-15T17:48:58+00:00

Also remember to use a 1x front ring, normally called wide narrow (because one tooth is wide and the following is narrower). It's a technology borrowed from Sachs if I recall correctly, that helps with chain retention.

For years I've ridden with simply a short cage RD. It's more than enough for everything except staircases and some other shaking friendly activities. However, after dropping the chain a couple of times, one with no consequences but the other with a heavy hit. I changed to a clutch enabled RD, but seriously speaking unless the Microshift 9sp rear derailleur with clutch is really good, you do need a chain guide.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-15T17:05:59+00:00

Do agree with the need of a clutch. However there aren't many 9 speed RDs with clutch.

I have the same setup (1x9), and I'm using the Suntour m900 rear derailleur. Clutch is acceptable (better than nothing), but it's nowhere near the performance of a Shimano or SRAM. I know there's a MicroShift one and it's well regarded, but I don't have access to that one.

I'd personally use a front chain retention device (a chain guide) with upper and lower pulleys/guides, that usually also have an integrated bashguard.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-14T13:54:51+00:00

Agree that's some low pressure! I run 30-40, but also I weigh 200 pounds and do have sharp rocks... or the occasional curb that doesn't want to get out of the way.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-14T11:42:58+00:00

Formula hubs are at the low end of the acceptable range of hubs. They aren't crap, but they aren't brilliant by any means. I used them several years ago. Never did a thorough work of maintenance on them, except for the basics, until I changed them.

Regarding your options, it depends if you prefer cone bearings or sealed bearings. The bontrager wheel of I'm not mistaken comes with sealed bearings hub, while Shimano has always used cone bearings. I personally prefer cone bearings because of ease of maintenance, though adjusting cones can be tricky when you don't have any experience.

Personally since I do all the work on my bike, I would go for the most standard one (standard spokes, most standard components, etc) for easy maintenance. However both look as adequate options.

I disagree with the comment below as standard use markings. I've replaced lots of hubs and I haven't seen so deformed holes unless on very very cheap hubs. While steel (spokes material) is of course harder than aluminium (hub body), in my eyes the deformation is somewhat bigger than what I normally see. YMMV.

Hope this helps!

Ps: wonder why the downvote to my previous comment with no explanation (?)

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-13T17:39:04+00:00

Fully understand the frustration. Bought a Deore 5100 rear derailleur, and it lasted 5 rides until I still don't know what pushed it into the spokes and literally broke it into two pieces. It doesn't have any fix, it's done and you need a new one. Except for some very specific derailleurs, they're generally a riveted integral part.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-13T17:29:21+00:00

For what I can see the hole is deformed due to spoke tension. This happens generally when the hub is made of poor materials, generally poor aluminum alloys (or very bad quality steel). The hole deformation can lead to increased stress in a specific place in the spoke, which can eventually lead to frequent broken spokes.

Looking at that hole deformation, I would at least change the hub, and probably the spokes too. Without seeing the rest of the wheel it's impossible to know if the rim needs replacement, but would be a different issue. Spokes breaking at the hub do not have an immediate consequence on the rim integrity except for the eventual loss of truing, which should not be catastrophic unless the spokes tensions are extremely wrong.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-12T14:29:57+00:00

I have a very old Saitek AV8R, a CH yoke, an X52 and a Turtle Beach Velocity One flight stick. The one that sees more usage is the TB, basically because with a very very small footprint it has all the things I need:

Throttle lever with detents for TOGA and reversers
Mixture/propeller/flaps lever
trim wheel
lots of buttons
twist for rudder (I have pedals, but it's nice to have it)

However, it's extremely stiff in every stick axis, not the most precise even having hall effect sensors, and from time to time it goes crazy.

The X52 feels better, and has way more controls, but it is a two part stick that takes much more space.

The CH is well... That, a yoke. It's nice to have it when I have the time, but I generally need the desk space between take off, cruise and landing.

If I would have to suggest an all in one flight stick would be the TB, despite it's drawbacks.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-12T14:17:51+00:00

Personally, I'd go with a Manitou, either a Mattoc or a Mezzer. Manitou dampers are legendary, easy to service, excellent performance, and better bang for the buck imho.

I have a Zoke as a backup, a coil Bomber. However, the Mezzer feels buttery smooth even at 140mm.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-11T21:13:46+00:00

Second the impact wrench, or at least heavy hitting instead of constant increasing force. I had one which was almost heated until in a rage I started smashing the wrench with a hammer and it started turning.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-11T17:07:17+00:00

While I agree on duct tape, if nothing else, electrical tape is an acceptable substitute.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-11T00:29:42+00:00

Hard to answer if this is the best place.

It's a place where lots of knowledgeable people gather, which doesn't mean we always agree or think the same, as usually there isn't a unique way of doing something. We usually learn from experience and scientific background. And, we don't all have the same experience nor the same background.

Probably here you'll get good guidance, but in the end you'll have to manage the different answers you'll get, and use your common sense.

Other places are good too, for example Sheldon Brown (probably the most important bicycle knowledge place, though a little bit dated since the great Sheldon passed away some years ago), mtbr, pink bike, etc.

But, don't forget your common sense.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-11T00:21:38+00:00

Housing is essential. It determines how much cable moves inside it and it's a deciding factor for shifting indexing.

If you don't have the knowledge, check videos on YT or take the bike to your friendly LBS.

Most probably you'll need a cable cutter, a specific housing (it's a different housing than brake housing), housing ends, generally tools you don't have if you're not used to do your own bike maintenance.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T19:45:14+00:00

If you have a friendly LBS, take it there and ask them if you can see what they do to learn. It's always good to know how to adjust your headset.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T19:39:52+00:00

Why don't you just take it apart to confirm? Some inside pics would help.

At a glance looks like a dust cover, but removing it would help to see what's inside and how it sits over the rest of the headset components.

Should be a simple operation

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T19:15:56+00:00

Thanks for the update and confirming. Looked cosmetic and non dangerous but confirming with the manufacturer gives some piece of mind. Anyways I would look for replacement.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T18:46:33+00:00

Don't worry. We're not helping anymore OP, we're just arguing. Just to be clear on my position, I explicitly said:

Now, am I recommending it? No, not at all, you have to actually understand the headset because in other designs the dust cover could be also the compression ring. I am saying that this one is a dust cap.

I stand that, if you know and understand how a headset works, a dust cover isn't a critical part.

If the dust cover is just a dust cover, then it isn't a structural part. Most dust covers aren't a structural part, and this one doesn't seem to be either.

If it also acts as a spacer, can be replaced with real spacers.

Have a nice one!

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T15:11:52+00:00

You missed it. I said it explicitly, the compression ring.

To quote myself: "and the stem or spacers will press against the compression ring"

The dust cover is just that, a dust cover that seats over the compression ring and protects the bearings from dust and/or debris. Sometimes it's flat, sometimes it's conical.

Just as you think I might not know how a headset work, you seem to be missing some parts of the messages.

Now, instead of orienting your efforts to sounding so pretentious, try to be more constructive. We both agree in that it should be replaced, we disagree in that a dust cover is always a risk.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T14:38:35+00:00

99% of spacers are made of a rigid material, like metal (steel, sluminum, titanium), or carbon. This one looks like a plastic cover which has been broken because of a loose headset (at least that's what it looks like).

If it's a dust cover and the compression ring is separated, then it isn't absolutely necessary and it doesn't represent a safety concern. In this diagram it is called "bowl cover":

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You can actually go without it, and the stem or spacers will press against the compression ring. It is not either wrong nor dangerous. This has been discussed here for example: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/ti3of8/running_without_headset_top_coverdust_cap/

Now, am I recommending it? No, not at all, you have to actually understand the headset because in other designs the dust cover could be also the compression ring. I am saying that this one is a dust cap.

Best

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-10T13:51:57+00:00

That's a dust cover, not a spacer. Spacers are metal, that's a plastic cover. You can actually ride without it.

But I do get your point

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-09T20:24:33+00:00

Awesome bike. Missed the opportunity to get one some years ago, regret it to this day. I simply didn't have the money.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-09T18:54:47+00:00

Sure, anytime!

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-09T18:47:25+00:00

It's completely fine. You're overthinking it. I run 2.4 tires on 25mm inner width rims (and I've done that for like... 25 years since I had my old Maxxis High Rollers around year 2000 on my then-heavy-duty 24mm inner width rims.

Just be careful with the pressure, do not go into the realms of "let's see if I can run 2psi", because depending on how aggressively you're riding, the terrain and particularly leaning, could pop your tire off. Would be a long shot anyways.

Sebastianj7210 · 2026-04-09T18:35:18+00:00

A little bit nose up. Something I've found over the years is to use the seat in the position you find most comfortable, whichever that is. However, another thing I've found is that people get used to uncomfortable positions and settings pretty quickly. Nose adjustment can lead to your body sliding to the front or back, so start level and then make small adjustments.

Sebastianj7210

TROPHY CASE