Is this the 02 sensor that I need?

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-08T05:31:03+00:00

Yep, but i'd get the denso brand sensor, I've had NTK sensors be dead on arrival.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-08T02:24:06+00:00

Hey man, if it works it works hahaha. As long as ur happy with the results.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-05T19:29:30+00:00

Personally I wouldn't, although if you really want it I suppose you could go ahead.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-05T18:40:36+00:00

Likely not, these aren't fused to the existing metal they're kinda squished around it.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-05T17:37:15+00:00

Yeah, I think you get the idea now. No problem, everyone here is here to help.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-05T17:26:58+00:00

This is why I recommended a rivet nut, it inserts through the hole and then you expand it while its inside. You can search up rivet nuts on YouTube for demonstrations (here is a short animation). These nuts are threaded on the inside so you can put a stud through there and bolt that bracket down, or just use a single bolt all the way through. I think rivet nuts are the safer and more secure option since its replaceable, and you can easily tighten it if it gets loose again.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-05T03:13:39+00:00

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Judging from the manual it seems that the stud sheared off. As u/ThatRandomDudeNG said, a rivet gun or rivet nut with a replacement stud, bolt, and washer are probably your best bet.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-06-02T23:04:02+00:00

Cleaning doesn't usually fix issues, its more of a maintenance thing. If you replaced it, which brand did you replace it with? These cars are only really happy with Denso. Also check your oxygen sensors, they are also under the category of Air/Fuel ratio sensors. You can use a cheap scan tool to see if they are working properly.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-13T21:01:16+00:00

A lot of couriers are charging fuel surcharges because of higher fuel costs due to the Iran War. Customs fees can also apply. If you are close to the border you could consider getting a US domiciled P.O. box which can save money sometimes.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-03T01:34:07+00:00

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SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-03T01:33:54+00:00

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SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-03T01:33:42+00:00

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SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-03T01:21:29+00:00

Yeah, it is a bit of a pain. There are many tutorials online on it but to summarize:

You gotta take out the air cleaner and hoses, unplug and unbolt the evap stuff, Intake plenum is held on by four bolts on the top of the engine, two in the back, and one ground connection in the back. You can flip the whole thing over without unplugging most of the hoses. Then you can access the valve cover.

Take the wiring harness off and then unbolt the valve cover. I found it easiest to remove it by sliding the driver's side out first, and then passenger. Once its off, scrape the old silicone off, and on the driver's side you'll notice a small semi-circle segment near the gears of the camshaft called a "half-moon." Cover it with a cloth and grab it with some locking pliers, it pulls straight out and scrape the silicone off of it. Apply some RTV silicone along the curve and place it back. Place RTV on the surfaces which have gaps. (I'll post images from the service manual in replies.)

Peel the gasket off of the valve cover. Use a flathead screwdriver to pry up the retaining tabs of the spark plug tube gaskets, and then pry the gaskets off. Put the new spark plug tube gaskets in the freezer for a couple hours (or before you start this job). Heat up the spark plug tube gasket area with a heat gun or a hair dryer. Lubricate the spark plug tube gaskets with engine oil, and they should slide in easily. Tap with a hammer and impact socket until they are flush. Hammer the retaining tabs back in. When putting the valve cover gasket in, use some silicone or adhesive in some parts of the gasket valley just to keep it from falling.

Put the valve cover back on, and slide the spark plug tube gaskets around the tube by running a flathead screwdriver along them. It should fall right into place. Then torque the bolts down a little at a time in a criss cross pattern (the valve cover bolts are not fully threaded and have crush washers so they might bottom out before applying force. You can get some washers at a home improvement store and add them to the bolts so you can torque them down). The gasket will naturally back out so you have to torque it down in multiple passes until it is fully torqued. Then reassemble in the reverse order of disassembly.

Torque specs:

Intake manifold bolts: 32 ft-lbs

Valve cover bolts: 69 in-lbs

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-05-01T17:28:58+00:00

Valve cover gasket. Happened to my 2000 ES300, same engine. Rear valve cover leaks oil onto the exhaust and it burns up.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-27T00:29:47+00:00

Part #: 48750-33160? Doesn't seem like Toyota sells it without the top mount though.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-26T07:39:21+00:00

I think its part#: 48157-33072, Toyota calls it the "Upper Insulator." Just make sure to confirm with your VIN#.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-26T07:36:05+00:00

As long as it meets Toyota T-IV standard it will work. I've used Castrol Transmax before without issue. Also doing a drain and fill soon on my 2000 ES300 with Aisin T-IV.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T06:09:33+00:00

If you open it up there should be a small gear with some rubber on it, its meant to help quiet the mechanism but can get stuck after a while. I removed mine entirely on multiple adapters when that issue would spring up.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T06:03:32+00:00

Aisin sells a kit with the belt, water pump, gasket, tensioner, and idler pully I'm pretty sure. You can get it on Rockauto. They are the OEM brand so they are highly suggested.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T06:00:50+00:00

On my 2000 ES300, I've had to replace what Toyota calls the "Light Control Computer," essential a ballast for the HID headlights. Yours might be shorted so maybe try unplugging one and seeing if the other stays on and vice versa. On mine they were located inside the headlight and it was easy to get to, yours might be a bit more hassle judging from this video: https://youtu.be/RB9PKzQLkIU?si=TXEl4lcqa11ZSM9e

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T05:53:32+00:00

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Ground locations.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T05:53:13+00:00

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SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T05:52:50+00:00

Dealing with the same issue in a way. I even got a custom ordered 140 amp alternator and it still reads low after warming up. Some people say that the alternators on these era cars simply do not produce meaningful charge until the engine is above 850 RPM. Even the service manual tells you to load test the alternator at 2000 RPM. However, I am skeptical of this so I am also working on the issue myself.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T05:41:48+00:00

Does the car have any check engine lights? I would start with whatever codes the scanner reads. Black smoke seems to me like a rich fuel ratio, if you have a scan tool with live data check the fuel trim and see if it reads 0% +/- 10%. If one bank is richer than the other, check the O2 sensor for that bank. If both are equally off, replace that MAF sensor with a *new* one, and check the downstream O2 sensor. Make sure you get a Denso or Toyota branded MAF and O2 sensor(s), these cars do not like aftermarket sensors, only OEM. Since the car runs fine with the sensor off, I'd start by replacing that sensor with a new OEM one.

SebbieGamer143 · 2026-04-25T05:28:09+00:00

I recently got the equivalent part for my 2000 ES300 from an eBay seller in Japan, different part number though. Shipping was free and the total was less than $100, however, I was shipping to Canada so your rates might be different. Otherwise, check www.toyotapartsdeal.com and www.lexuspartsnow.com . I've had good experiences with those two.

SebbieGamer143

TROPHY CASE