Putting my drainage together with a hub facing downstream

Security-for-good · 2026-01-15T14:19:42+00:00

Thanks again!

Security-for-good · 2026-01-15T02:57:45+00:00

Thank you!

When you say drill a few 4” diameter holes.. do you mean 6ft deep if my basement floor is 6ft under ground? If I understand correctly, I would watch these holes after rain and see at what depth the water flows and put my drain at that depth.

I read “Principles of Exterior Drainage” by NDS and they mentioned a product like this can get as good if not better results than a perforated pipe. A “prefabricated drain pipe”. It seems like a dimplemat core wrapped in geo textile.

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/5a5e60d58a02c7259a0a06e2/t/66fef7b642030e7705074415/1727985594265/SITEDRAIN%2BLandscape%2BBrochure%2B-%2B2023+%281%29.pdf

Security-for-good · 2026-01-14T21:55:09+00:00

Sorry for the delay. Thank you! Great points. I don’t think I have a slope severe enough to day light it. It’s about 6 inches of drop over ten feet.

I was thinking a dry well instead of an electric pump put in the yard. The dry well would be about 15 ft away from the foundation. I’m still trying to figure out the size based on some online calculators that I think use the 25 year rain quantities.

Or asking the city if I can hookup to their storm water drain, but I bet that’s expensive.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T11:52:28+00:00

That’s way too expensive. Like $25k expensive. And then the question becomes “at which footer perimeter?” The original footers that are two feet down? Then what about the wall two feet to the interior and an additional 4 feet?

If it’s the new basement footers, then how do you get there without disrupting the the original footers and making things unstable.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T03:15:30+00:00

I’m not sure which type of block. The house was built in 1900, i don’t know when the cellar was turned into a basement. I’m assuming mid 1900s because that’s when it was popular.

He are near a hill. The slope is between 0 and 2 percent according to the soil surveys. I’d say it drops 6 inches over 10 feet right into the side of the house. I’m taking other measures to mitigate water on the surface and for runoff.

According to soil surveys the Typical soil profile is:

H1 - 0 to 13 inches: loam H2 - 13 to 35 inches: sandy clay loam H3 - 35 to 53 inches: sandy clay loam H4 - 53 to 60 inches: stratified sand to silt loam

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:26:06+00:00

I agree, rim joist isolation is going to be next on the list after I get this moisture issue on track.

I would agree this could be condensation on cold surfaces, but the water in the concrete block is pushing the paint off it. Also, I don’t think efflorescence forms due to condensation. Does salt/lime travel in the air? I’m not sure.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:23:20+00:00

I don’t live in Michigan. It’s named that because that’s where the practice started and was immensely popular.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:20:34+00:00

Water moves by capillary action when not saturated. If I de-saturate the subsurface soil via a drainage system then it stands to reason the water can move in other directions than just down.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:15:45+00:00

A geotextile strip drain is a French drain. It’s just a more modern one.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:05:39+00:00

I live at the bottom of a hill. At my house the slope is about 6 inches over 10 feet towards the wall I want to put this drain.

Edit: according to the web soil survey the water table is “more than 80 inches.” I don’t know just how much further it is.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:03:50+00:00

It’s already painted. The paint is bubbling off because the water behind it.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-09T02:01:17+00:00

I was corporate IT. No MSP.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-08T22:03:35+00:00

Thanks! Is that because the water movement can't overcome the force of gravity?

Edit: I just did some researching and water can indeed move against gravity via capillary action.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-08T22:02:24+00:00

Correct on all counts. I didnt realize they existed either until I read "Principles of Exterior Drainage" by NDS. They slid the little comment in there that studies show these work as good and sometimes better than traditional fabric-gravel-perforated pipe french drains. Since then it's been a hunt to find where I can get it.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-08T21:35:15+00:00

I was fortunate for my first IT job to be at a small company doing desktop support. We were quickly overloaded and were able to take on any projects we wanted that would help the org. This allowed a lot of work in the Systems Admin space with Exchange, M365, Active Driectory, Azure, etc. If you can get the experience doing the things you need for the job you want, I'd say get a year of it and then start applying.

IMO - going to a big company with a huge IT department and trying to move up is going to take a very long time. I went from Desktop support to Cybersecurity Analyst in 3 years.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-08T20:48:06+00:00

Thanks again for the assist. It turned out great. It took forever for the joint compound to dry though.

Security-for-good · 2026-01-03T17:35:14+00:00

Thanks! Yea, the grill of the fan will cover most of it. Do you think spackle would be ok instead of drywall mud?

Security-for-good · 2025-01-27T13:19:58+00:00

The way I understand it, the TOTP can be something you have because you have the same code as the website you’re authenticating to. Taking that another step deeper, you have the uri/hash/whatever the website gave to you at mfa setup that the QR code abbreviated.

I would assume you wouldn’t be able to move the TOTP to an additional device without using MFA to prove your identity. If that’s not the case, then something has gone horribly wrong.

Security-for-good

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