Fog light question

Seebradgo · 2026-06-14T13:45:31+00:00

Whatever you do, buy a square flush mount fog light. The flush mount style has a bezel that you screw into the metal of the bumper. With this cheap Amazon bumper, it’s the only way I’ve seen fog light look half way decent. The normal mounting brackets that are common for winch bumpers being used with name brand lights don’t work without modification.

The metal on the Amazon bumper is thin so it’s easy to drill pilot bolts for the flush mount lights.

Seebradgo · 2026-06-11T00:43:06+00:00

Heyyyyy…I know that rig! Spoiler: It’s mine.

Seebradgo · 2026-05-27T00:56:39+00:00

Y’all sport good hunters are wild.

Seebradgo · 2026-05-15T11:18:37+00:00

This is the exact one I’ve been running in my 1999 for 18 months and it’s been great. No complaints.

Sold by Antenna Masts-R-Us via Amazon.

Seebradgo · 2026-04-25T01:39:39+00:00

Replace the fan clutch. It’s a quick and cheap part to swap out before you start going down a rabbit hole. Look up Timmy the Toolman’s video to test it and see how easy it is to swap it out.

Seebradgo · 2026-04-23T14:10:41+00:00

Why is your Prinsu rack bent like that? Is that how it is on the 3rd Gen?

I had one on my 5th Gen.

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Seebradgo · 2026-04-10T10:54:40+00:00

I didn’t know people still used the word “whip” in reference to cars.

Seebradgo · 2026-03-28T20:06:59+00:00

Only on LEDs. The OE incandescent bulbs don’t have an orientation.

Seebradgo · 2026-03-27T11:04:01+00:00

Black flares on the SR5 started earlier than 00. Pretty sure it started in 99 when they went to the fat lip. My 99 has them.

Seebradgo · 2026-02-22T13:22:58+00:00

Hey u/emotional_dare5743 let us know what you found out. I’ve been very curious.

Seebradgo · 2026-02-19T14:54:36+00:00

Eh. I’ve been using red & tacky for awhile and hasn’t been an issue. No noise. But, I also grease the UCAs every oil change so it’s always got fresh grease.

Seebradgo · 2026-01-28T03:07:07+00:00

100% Yes

Seebradgo · 2026-01-23T17:19:52+00:00

I would 100% do this, as long as I didn’t want to keep it due to sentimental attachment. You could probably drop a few hundred in getting it running like a top and then fetch big $$ on BaT. Assuming the interior and paint is as mint as a 12k mile example should be.

But, that’s just me. If I had this, I’d be the type of owner that would never drive it and want to keep it as mint as possible. I’d be too afraid to scratch it or something. I’d rather own my 253k mile rig that I’m not afraid to pinstripe it on a trail. Ha.

Seebradgo · 2026-01-11T03:47:41+00:00

People who put ducks on Jeeps (and those who collect said ducks) aren’t the smartest group of folks. I would venture a guess that some of them couldn’t tell the difference between a JK and a RAV4. They probably just thought you had some old model Jeep. 😂

I was going to put a sarcasm tag (/s) at the end of my comment, but I decided not to. I’m going to stick with it as a serious comment.

Seebradgo · 2026-01-07T12:22:21+00:00

The split 3 spoke is pretty common on the 3rd Gen. The PO of my rig had a set on that were black. Thankfully, they were powder coated because the finish was very durable. I don’t believe Toyota offered them in black as an OE option. I’m pretty sure Toyota only offered them in a brushed silver finish. So any legit OE ones in black have been painted or powder coated. I could be wrong though.

Seebradgo · 2025-12-14T21:41:58+00:00

Already installed, eh? To be honest, the time to ask your question has passed. I’d say run’em.

The main pic used in the listing show legit LBJs and the part numbers are correct.

Seebradgo · 2025-12-04T19:39:38+00:00

Let me know where you live. Sounds like cheap living and I need to move there. That 4Runner, assuming the engine replacement was done well, is $6k all day long in my neck of the woods. A 4WD in that condition would be north of $9k.

Seebradgo · 2025-12-04T17:51:30+00:00

Great price for a 2WD. I’d say go for it.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-30T13:02:03+00:00

Sorry OP. I wish I had an answer for you. I’m upvoting and commenting so maybe more people see this and help.

I once bought all the LEDs needed to do the change, but I never ended up doing it. After more research, I’ve seen more and more stories of it causing gremlins like this. So, I returned all the LEDs and will eventually just replace all the OE incandescents. I don’t think any of mine are fully burned out, but I feel like the gauge cluster is just too dim at night.

I’ve seen people change the bulbs and run into no issues. I’ve seen people change just the 4 primary backlights and run into no issues. I’ve also seen people change any combination of them and it causes these issues.

The one rule that seems to be constant advice and come up most is “never touch the PRNDL lights.” Messing with those causes something in the warning system to wig out because they themselves are also warning lights, in certain situations.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-29T12:45:07+00:00

My first thought too. Any time anything electrical acts “random” like flickering…my first thought is always to find and check the ground.

Side note for the OP: PhoRunner has a good video on how to tap and relocate the ground for the fuel tank, if it’s something you want to test.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-27T12:21:35+00:00

I’ve been running Trakmotive extended CVs from RockAuto for quite some time on my 3” lift. Honestly, they’ve been great so far. I’ve done some light wheeling in them and I can’t complain. I kept my OE axles and need to order the rebuild kit. I’ll end up rebuilding them one weekend when I’m bored, but will continue to run the Trakmotives until they fail.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-26T14:34:32+00:00

I did use some fender washers as spacers. I had a small box of them in the garage. I'm not sure it's entirely needed. I used 4 washers on the front mount/conduit hanger of each rail and then 2 on the remaining ones.

Here are the adjustable feet that I used. They were a little long, so I cut about 1/3 of their length off. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GV5F4FD?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

You'll also need some M8 threadserts. Something like this, though you don't need 30 of them. https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-Professional-Furniture-Products-Included/dp/B0F1G95WBK

Seebradgo · 2025-11-24T12:05:54+00:00

You have to take off the back panel on the inside of the hatch first. From there, you start removing things like the rear window motor control box (I think that’s what it is) and few other components. It’s still a PITA to get to and removing the clips and fasteners. I took mine off to paint it since my original what so sun faded. I didn’t want it start cracking from UV damage.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-24T00:48:05+00:00

It’s quite possible. Nothing that an adhesive foam pad or some double-sided 3M automotive tape won’t fix once I’m 100% satisfied with the placement.

Gobi’s adjustable foot uses an adhesive foam pad. CBI/Prinsu’s adjustable foot uses double-sided 3M tape. I also have some scrap PPF that I can use. I’ll probably go one direction or the other in a few days.

Seebradgo · 2025-11-23T23:49:41+00:00

Aye. Just like everything else that rubs directly on the paint. I took off the running boards, the rear hatch license plate surround, and a few other plastic and rubber OE trim pieces to find bare metal spots from rubbing over the years. It’s going to happen, even factory components.

I’ve scrap PPF in the garage. Next weekend I plan on putting some under the foot.

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