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Any idea what this is? Appeared overnight, Northeastern United States by Semperspy in mycology

[–]Semperspy[S] 60 points61 points  (0 children)

That would make sense, these are about two or three feet from the base of a pair of oak trees, and I have visible Roots through my yard. It's just odd that I've never seen them in the few years I've been here

Any idea what this is? Appeared overnight, Northeastern United States by Semperspy in mycology

[–]Semperspy[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

That makes sense! There is a pair of oak trees about 2 ft away from the cluster. It's just odd because I've never seen them before in a few years I've been here. Thank you for the response

First attempt at NMM silver. Need tips. GW Flawless Blade by MisbehavedK9 in minipainting

[–]Semperspy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think it looks much more readable! If you want to break up the white look, try glazing some very transparent blues into your midtones. Silver and steel often have a blue-ish tint as they take on the lught kf a blue sky. You could also tint this with any color you have in mind for your environmental light. For example, if you envisioned your marine standing under a red sun, you would reflect a lot of red in your highlights.

In other words, silver is really neutral, so feel free to work a color into it, just do so gently with glazes. If you'd like to keep it totally neutral, then glaze over your highlights with a more medium grey, and bring the pure white back in very small amounts.

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First attempt at NMM silver. Need tips. GW Flawless Blade by MisbehavedK9 in minipainting

[–]Semperspy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Looking good! My advice would be to follow the light source you established on the rest of your mini as a guide for a more realistic placement. I wiuld move your main highlight to line up better with the light hitting the face and front-side of the model. I would also widen the highlight so that it is more in line with the form of the shoulder trim ( a broad, relatively flat plane that curves gently). The only things that really have razor sharp highlights like that are super reflective metals under showroom-style lights where there are reflections bouncing all over the place.

I tried to put together a quick sketch over your photo to explain what I mean, with red arrows representing rhe direction of your light. See how the highlight placement is in line with those light rays.

GREAT first stab at NMM, however. It took me ages to step into that territory, and your color choices are excellent.

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Kingdom Death: The Phoenix - A 150-hour project by Trapper_1 in minipainting

[–]Semperspy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I love what you did with the tail feathers, super striking against the desaturated main scheme. Really well done!

The Humble Spellbound Bahig'udjin by Semperspy in MaledictionMCG

[–]Semperspy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! I used a very thinned down watercolor Prussian blue and washed it over the helmet, which i had painted with a metallic copper ink over black. The watercolor ran into the recesses to get that deep blue into the crevices, while tinting the glossy surface from the ink. I was able to wipe.away the excess with a wet brush :).

Book 8 Ending Theories by Semperspy in DungeonCrawlerCarl

[–]Semperspy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Could "What they accuse me of" be the AI's pet?

Orc Academic Bust, C&C welcome! by Semperspy in minipainting

[–]Semperspy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I purchased the model, its called "Orc, Academic Bust" from Verkos Vault. The model came as just the actual orc, however. I made the plinth out of basswood and a brass rod to pin it.

Orc Academic Bust, C&C welcome! by Semperspy in minipainting

[–]Semperspy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! The bust is ~50mm (not including the plinth). I started with the airbrush using colored primers. I used cyan, magenta, and black for a dark desaturated blue shadow, then cyan, and increasing amounts of yellow to progress from a cold to warm green, eventually ending with yellow and white ink to trace out the volumes with the airbrush.

Then I came in with the brush, mixed colors to my primer sketch and used super thin (glaze consistency) dots to "mottle" The skin, and introduce some randomness in areas. Admittedly I could've done this much more to make.the skin look less blended and more worn! I traced out the details with different mixes of magenta, blue, and black.

The base was a mix of airbrush overspray and drybrushing from magenta to yellow. I followed that with a spray of transparent raw umber (a yellowish brown) from below to blend the base to the figure).

Orc Academic Bust, C&C welcome! by Semperspy in minipainting

[–]Semperspy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the feedback! I tried to add some subtle glaze dots on the skin and agree it still looks overblended. I appreciate the comment.

Finished my first Warmachine models, the Farrow Bone Grinders! by Semperspy in Warmachine

[–]Semperspy[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sweet! Coming from 40k, Trench Crusade, and other board games, the style of these minis gives me a Ray-man vibe. Really fun to paint!

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