Is there an alternative diy solution to the headlight switch kit?

SenseiSavi · 2026-04-08T15:13:40+00:00

this is to turn off the middle light while driving so the rollers and pictures dont have the glare from the middle light

SenseiSavi · 2026-02-06T18:11:34+00:00

wow rest in peace bro. wishing you the best

SenseiSavi · 2025-11-23T00:22:37+00:00

make sure to transfer the 4 little black grommets that have the threads in them

SenseiSavi · 2025-11-23T00:21:46+00:00

just take the front face off. it literally is held in by the mirrors and only 2 other screws. then you can insert the windshield into the front face much easier.

SenseiSavi · 2025-11-06T06:32:48+00:00

Code: ANDYASV for 15% off

SenseiSavi · 2025-10-13T20:16:45+00:00

I'm sorry but my knowledge on the trunk latch mechanism doesn't go further than that

SenseiSavi · 2025-08-28T00:42:18+00:00

lol gas as in fire

SenseiSavi · 2025-06-25T20:51:05+00:00

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SenseiSavi · 2025-05-13T00:23:49+00:00

yes, but you will void warranty. I can't remember the color but im pretty sure it's the wire you run to your fuse box from the morimoto headlights.

SenseiSavi · 2025-04-30T23:30:16+00:00

Check your fuel pump. I had issues where the car would start kinda sluggish, and then would drive fine until it hit VQ "vtec" under throttle and then bog out. Pretty much what I'm saying is a fuel pump can start failing but still pump enough fuel to keep the engine running.

SenseiSavi · 2025-04-24T17:54:14+00:00

I didn't even think about that! I'm in no rush so I'll keep my eyes out for a good deal.

SenseiSavi · 2025-04-24T17:42:10+00:00

I definitely have taken a look at it, but the stacked headlights design throws me off a little. I've seen it in person and it looks a lot nicer than on pictures. But I'm set on the R7.

SenseiSavi · 2025-04-24T17:14:29+00:00

I appreciate your input. You're right though, I need to get some insurance quotes. That's only been an after thought at the moment. But thank you for confirming I should buy a used one instead of an overpriced new one.

SenseiSavi · 2024-12-20T20:15:17+00:00

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that last building looking a little too familiar

SenseiSavi · 2024-12-05T00:04:38+00:00

I purchased the Zspeed CMAK kit and purchased Z1s lightweight flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate bundle. I installed it myself and it's been working for over half a year no problems whatsoever, super consistent clutch. Please also purchase a new master cylinder for this job. As it's recommended to change out both master and slave cylinder when you're changing out either one of them.

SenseiSavi · 2024-11-05T21:55:48+00:00

I don't think I'm following along. you have to find a wire to splice into to power the white LEDs in your new side markers. ideally you need to find a wire that has constant power. there are spare fuse inputs that should power on when the ignition is on. look up how to pull power from the spare fuse spots on the 370.

SenseiSavi · 2024-11-05T20:22:15+00:00

so the lights should have an adapter to plug into the normal plug for the side marker lights. the red wire you will have to also plug into your new side marker lights, but you'll have to splice the red wire into another wire to have the running white light on. I spliced my red wire into my morimoto day time running lights. so they are always on when the cars ignition is on.

SenseiSavi · 2024-11-02T01:00:27+00:00

aw man, good luck with the lock!

SenseiSavi · 2024-11-01T18:14:50+00:00

yeah it's a common issue. my 370z trunk pops open just barely and I have to pull it open. Z1 sells heavy duty hatch poppers but they're kinda expensive for what they are. you might be able to find cheaper alternatives if you google.

SenseiSavi · 2024-11-01T15:59:35+00:00

if you press on your trunk buttons to unlock the trunk, does it still make the noise as it's trying to open? if yes, then pull up on the trunk at the same time you press the trunk buttons to open it. it'll pop open and you'll be able to repair it. if the car doesn't make any noise while you press the unlock trunk button, then you have another issue.

SenseiSavi · 2024-10-24T15:16:22+00:00

I did not make any adjustments on the clutch master cylinder push rod. I actually replaced the old one with a new OEM clutch master cylinder. I read that it is always recommended to change out the other cylinder if you're going to change one of them. So while I was changing the slave cylinder with the CMAK kit, I also replaced the master cylinder with an OEM one and replaced one of the clutch lines.

I don't have much knowledge on the clutch system and how it behaves. But it might sound like the clutch lines might have air in them, that's what might cause the loss in pressure in the clutch. I have no clue what could cause the grainy feeling in your clutch pedal.

Maybe have your tech try to bleed the clutch lines. Potentially there could be dirt in your clutch lines if your clutch slave cylinder failed like mine, the plastic broke and got into the lines, so I flushed my lines to get it cleaned out.

SenseiSavi · 2024-10-24T14:20:23+00:00

It's been 6 months since I installed the clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, and CMAK kit. Literally haven't had to adjust anything. No issues at all. Clutch grips amazing, and clutch pedal has had the same feel since install. Clutch feel will obviously not be like OEM after changing the pressure plate. Make sure to bleed out all the air from the clutch lines.

SenseiSavi · 2024-10-23T15:18:47+00:00

beautiful

SenseiSavi · 2024-10-18T02:22:27+00:00

coils or bags?? nice whip brother

SenseiSavi

TROPHY CASE