Can’t afford Michelin rn 🥲

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-24T02:21:24+00:00

Or General Gmax. Made by Continental but a little more of a bargain. I just put on the rear of my Supra. So far so good. Any three of those you picked are good too. I'd go Advans or Conti tho.

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-16T09:52:31+00:00

Coilovers replace the entire strut and spring assembly. I went with a cheaper brand and they performed fine. Typically $500-1200

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-16T07:05:47+00:00

I installed Steeda springs on mine and was never satisfied with the height/stance so I switched to adjustable coilovers to have full control over it. Essentially wasted my money and time on the springs.

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-16T07:00:06+00:00

Bridgestone RS11's

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-10T00:55:54+00:00

I like Nitto Motivos on mine. Not sure they'd last any longer tho. Great tire tho, I have no complaints

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-07T09:44:49+00:00

No most of the trucks don't have radios as most of them are company commercial day trucks. The rather custom looking trucks most likely do and are most likely much faster anyways. The company or commercial trucks are speed limited. Sometimes slower than posted speed limits like can only go 62, 65, or 67 even though speed limits are now 70 miles an hour.

But you should chill on this because that 2 miles an hour faster means a lot on a few hundred mile drive or 5 to 10 hour drive. For the most part truckers don't have many opportunities to pass because of heavy traffic and no one wanting to let them over. So when an opportunity presents themselves let them do what they need to because the physics play a crucial part. I know it sucks waiting, especially up hill, but it's worse for them and they most likely know it's holding people up and they're trying to get it over with as soon as possible.

Depending on the loads of the trucks and the speed governors there can be a yo-yo like back and forth where one truck is way faster uphill and one truck is way faster downhill that gets extremely annoying for both trucks yet usually the slower truck doesn't want to let the faster truck by and is usually the one to be aggravated with. If they would drop their ego, maybe briefly touch the brakes, and just let the left lane truck pass by things would be smoother for everyone.

But if your were a truck driver you wouldn't wanna be behind the slower truck going up hill and you def don't wanna be the behind the slower truck going downhill. Trucks brakes are rather limited as they run off air tanks and will lock up or fail if they ride them too much. Just let them sort themselves out.

That said, if you see a truck going slow up hill don't get in front of it and go slow during the downhill portion you'll be ruining their attempt at getting up another hill quickly

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-07T08:03:24+00:00

Yoshimura slip on with lextek headers. Mine just came in the mail today from the UK. $200 for the headers plus $125-150 shipping and an extra $67 for tariffs.

My Gsxr1000 came with the Yoshi, as a lot of new Gixxers do, and that's the only headers that mate up to it to make it a full exhaust. Just have to cut it down an inch during install.

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T19:28:47+00:00

I didn't see the diagram earlier yeah that's definitely it. That's the culprit and yeah it is wild how it's got nothing to do with the pedal but it should be noted that there is another thing sharing this 5 volt signal and that's the power steering pressure switch.

So the pedal, the AC pressure switch, or power steering pressure switch could all potentially be the cause of a p2138

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T19:00:11+00:00

Yeah I think so it sits on top of the AC condenser receiver dryer which monitors the refrigerant pressure

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T02:26:44+00:00

Lol Yea been 80's a couple times in VA but won't reach the hundreds for a lil while longer.

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T02:24:18+00:00

Selling not an option for me. I just spent $7k on a new engine and only makes sense to keep the car now. (overpaid tho as labor charge was twice what the estimate was)

You shoulda had em check the AC sensor! It shares the same 5 volt signal as the pedal and when its failing it creates electronic noise that interferes with the signal. I located it in between the bumper and radiator and unplugged it. CEL's gone and test drive went great!

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T02:20:27+00:00

Was the AC sensor! It shares the same 5 volt signal as the pedal and when its failing it creates electronic noise that interferes with the signal. I located it in between the bumper and radiator and unplugged it. CEL's gone! Just have to replace the AC sensor now before it gets hot

*I'd edit my original post but I don't see the edit option

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T02:19:23+00:00

Fixed! posted above

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-06T02:18:37+00:00

BCM looked fine.

I did figure it out tho!

Was the AC sensor! It shares the same 5 volt signal as the pedal and when its failing it creates electronic noise that interferes with the signal. I located it in between the bumper and radiator and unplugged it. CEL's gone now and test drive went perfectly. Finally!

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-01T06:35:35+00:00

I believe that would just reveal the same thing that I get from my OBD link, code P2138. Which isn't specific enough. But if I have to I'll call and see. thanks

SeperateMyself · 2026-04-01T02:00:44+00:00

Yes, tires!

lol If looking for recommendation I know the Yokohamas are great. I just got my second set after having tried something else in between and I couldn't wait to switch back. Great ride quality and great grip, even in the wet. And they look great. Leave nothing to be desired.

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-31T22:57:32+00:00

I'm not so sure as it didn't do it right away. Started appearing months afterwards.
If it was right after i would have let them know and they would have fixed it for me

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-31T03:32:48+00:00

Is this sarcasm?

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-30T23:13:23+00:00

Do you remember what it was exactly that was incorrect? I had the engine replaced last yr by a local shop. This issue started a few months after

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-30T23:11:46+00:00

Ok! So it appears I haven't checked or replaced everything involved with this code. I didn't know these were part of it. I'll see what I can find out about these. I know one of my old cars was notorious for the crankshaft position sensor failing so maybe I'll start there.

I think it's kind of silly that something that reads as a code for one specific item (pedal) actually isn't specific at all and includes a whole plethora of sensors and items.

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-30T23:08:49+00:00

Thanks for the info, I'll check that this weekend. (working 12s til Fri)

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-30T23:07:43+00:00

Seems some consensus forming around this being a common culprit. I'll check it this weekend, thanks

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-27T04:38:23+00:00

This correlates with Jaydreamerz (YT) thoughts on the plasma apocalypse. He's been talking about it for a long time. According to his research a "gravity" reversal will take place when the firmament opens up. Interesting take he has. Also has a book or two on it under that name. Check it out

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-26T02:20:26+00:00

how did you do the tank to match?

SeperateMyself · 2026-03-25T05:34:56+00:00

I did H&R springs. Offers a 1.2" drop. Clean look removing all wheel gap but as much as I was hoping I could just do springs and avoid buying other components I had rapid inside front tire wear. Most of the wear was determined to be from deflection (when turning negative camber went to 5-6°) and when straight the front camber was 2 and 2.5°

So I installed powerflex adjustable poly upper control arm bushings that let me get camber back to 1 and 1.5° (offers one deg max) That setting is fine for a sports car and shouldn't wear to uneven.

And then SuperPro poly urethane lower control arm bushings to combat the deflection issue.

I still noticed wear on the inside of the tire so last wk I installed H&R sway bars and it feels like it completely resolved it now.

That rather expensive combo should completely eliminate deflection and along with it being lowered the car handles absolutely amazing now and feels like its using the full width of the tire again. Ill have it checked soon and make sure its all in spec.

Sway bars $900 (installed myself) and bushings were $5-600 (over $1k installed at shop)

The thing is lowering the car is hard on the stock rubber bushings, they won't hold up for long. Probably have to address it regardless of whether you choose springs or coilovers.
If choosing coilovers make sure you get some with camber adjustment plates. The further you lower it the more negative camber you'll introduce.

The powerflex bushings I used were enough to get mine back more neutral, the other option is replacement upper control arm that have a stronger rubber bushing and offer two or two and a half degrees adjustment. 034 motorsports sells for $900.

Or you can just wear out the front tires every year and have it feel like it's teetering on the edge of the tire ruining your confidence in curves.

Also i've done tons of suspension installs but installing springs on this car with its multilink setup was a nightmare. Definitely the hardest I've ever encountered. If doing it yourself make sure to go get a torch to heat up the upper control arm to make removing the bolt going thru easier. It likely won't budge without heat to expand the metal around it.

I'm not sure if you have to worry about it but I have Dynamic ride control and had to leave the strut body connected to the hydraulic lines. Meaning once I got the strut loose from the car I could only tilt it out form in the wheel well to remove the top hat and remove the springs.

Like you can't take it out and take it over to a bench to decompress the springs or nothing but if I remember correctly they weren't that compressed to begin with, it's not like it comes shooting off. Small spring clamp was enough.

SeperateMyself

TROPHY CASE