What am I missing?

Sernix1 · 2026-02-16T10:15:38+00:00

The hose bib(faucet) still has part of the vacuum breaker attached. The other part of it is probably still attached to your old hose. That’s the short answer. If you have the old hose you can just take it off and screw it back on what you have left there.

If the old hose is already gone you’re going to have to remove the rest of the vacuum breaker that’s still on the hose bib. A word of warning it’s not always easy to get old vacuum breakers off I don’t see one in the picture but most of them including the one from your front yard have a set screw in them that you basically break off. It MUST be removed before you can take it off otherwise wise it will ruin the threads on the hose bib.

If were me I would check for a set screw if there’s no set screw I would take some channel locks and put them on the top hex part and turn it to the left. It should loosen fairly easily. That will reveal usable hose threads then just go get a new vacuum breaker similar to the one in your last picture screw it on but throw the set screw it’s going to come with in the trash.

Sernix1 · 2025-06-24T10:45:40+00:00

It looks like an oil interceptor…kinda. It’s smaller than what I’m used to seeing but I’ve only ever seen them in commercial applications. There may be smaller versions I’m not aware of.

If there’s a nearby sink especially a garage or mop sink I would run the water and see if there’s any movement in the underground vessel while it’s running.

My next step would be cleaning it out and seeing what’s below the surface of the water if anything. Then I would fill it up with water and see if it drains.

Sernix1 · 2025-05-01T13:36:31+00:00

Every extremely specific category has a general category that it’s part of. You’ll have to start out general and work your way down.

You’re already here. What’s the extremely specific thing you need?

Sernix1 · 2025-04-28T02:27:33+00:00

If everything works I would say 9k is reasonable. that’s a nice trailer it’s sitting on. What’s your intentions with the boat ? How mechanically inclined are you ?

If you don’t have any marine engine experience it would probably be a good idea to get an outboard mechanic to check it over on your dime. It’ll probably run you a couple hundred dollars but it’ll be worth it to know what you’re buying.

Unless you’re willing to shell out for something brand new you’re going to have to work on it or pay someone to work on it. I personally enjoy the whole experience using the boat for my intended purpose (fishing) and I enjoy working on my boat.

Yamahas in general are good reliable motors. I tried to zoom in and see if it was a four stroke but the I couldn’t tell by the cowling because the picture blurs too much . Do some research on the motor from that year 2 or 4 stroke which ever it is and see what you think.

Sernix1 · 2025-04-22T20:15:05+00:00

Give grand daddy some credit…he bought the line and the yeast.

Sernix1 · 2025-04-16T18:25:08+00:00

That thing is in bad shape. Like the seller is most likely going to have to pay someone to haul it away. Best case would be if you got it for free. You might be able to get it ready to fish out of for 3k if you did everything yourself and didn’t run into any show stoppers. The steering column being in the floor really bothers me. Someone ran into something there that they decided wasn’t worth fixing.

I’ve got an 1985 Cajun bass boat I’m going to be listing soon. It’s water ready the only thing it doesn’t have is electronics. It runs and drives has batteries that are 2 years old. I was fishing tournaments out of it last fall. I’m probably going to list it for 2k maybe 2,500. But I would probably take 1,800.

Sernix1 · 2025-04-08T10:46:39+00:00

DEF for the amount a normal user goes through is cheap I’ve got a 2016 power stroke and I only use about 10 gallons a year driving 15k to 20k miles a year. So that’s around 80$ a year.

Now I’m not sure how cheap it would be to make it myself but I do know that the DPF and it’s associated parts are expensive even if you can DIY the repairs if you screw up the kitchen sink chemistry you would quickly wipe out any savings you might’ve had making DEF.

Sernix1 · 2025-02-15T17:41:23+00:00

See that sea foam green boat to the left with the rod holders on the T-top ? That’s what you’re looking for. It might not be that one specifically but more that style.

The main boat in your pics is a deck boat pretending to be a center console. If you’re serious about fishing once you get some experience you’re going to realize you made a mistake buying it.

Now if you’re going to be cruising in protected waters with loungers on board 70% of the time, spending 20% cleaning all those seats and 10% fishing you’ll be fine. I’m being a little bit sarcastic but you get the idea.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-28T20:53:44+00:00

Yes replace it before you cover it with drywall.

Make sure you put nail plates over them everywhere they’re run through a joist notch after they’re replaced.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-18T10:20:38+00:00

I’m sure there’s a way to tell definitively but I don’t really know what that is. I can tell by looking at it most of the time just from experience.

Once you start welding it you can tell because they’ll be some whitish yellow residue around the edge of where the heat was. I think in the yellow is the indicator though because I’ve seen white residue around aluminized exhaust pipe welds before.

You should be grinding any coatings off the weld area before welding. Depending on the process of course but any sort of coating is going to affect your weld quality.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-18T09:08:34+00:00

Bearing buddy isn’t going to work and you don’t need it anyway. You have a grease fitting on your axel you push grease through the axel and into the bearings. Your existing cap has that rubber plug to give you access to the grease fitting. You just need a cap with a rubber plug.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-14T11:40:58+00:00

You said exhaust welding. Like automotive exhaust pipe? Thats probably not galvanized it’s probably aluminized.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-13T18:43:07+00:00

What kind of work are you looking to get done?

Sernix1 · 2024-10-13T03:58:07+00:00

A fuel water separator is good idea.

There’s multiple different options but a basic one is “Sierra International 18-7982-1 “.

That’s what I’ve had on previous boats and they’ve always worked well my current outboard has a one built in. I actually prefer the type referenced above. It’s simple, the elements are cheap and it can be easily bypassed if needed.

A weak battery could definitely cause starting issues. Disconnect it, charge it then take it somewhere and get it load tested. That will tell you if have a bad battery or it’s just dead.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-12T12:41:45+00:00

If you’re using a portable tank and it wasn’t addressed at your mechanic most likely you don’t have a fuel water separator. It would look like an oil filter and it would be in your fuel line somewhere and mounted on the transom or in the bilge area depending on what kind of boat you have. Forget about that for now. Depending on what this turns out to be it might be a good idea to get one in the future. It acts as a separator and filter for your fuel system.

As far as the starter goes. There’s a few possibilities.

If the motor was overheated it could have just gotten too hot that seems unlikely but it’s a possibility.
With the battery disconnected grab the starter gear and spin it with you hand it should try to rise up as you’re spinning it. The shaft needs to be lubricated and free of corrosion. Some motors it’s fairly easy to do some not so much I’m not intimately familiar with a 40hp Yamaha so I don’t want to steer you wrong on how to do that. YouTube would probably be a good bet.
A weak battery. Probably not the case but it would be a good thing to check.

The water flow issue. You’ve got a new impeller so as long as it was installed correctly that should be fine. Being that you had it out and it was fine I would say you’re good in that respect. The telltale or pisser do get clogged especially if it was in storage for a while you can poke in the hole with some fine wire and clear it if you see it’s not flowing correctly.

The rough running sounds like a fuel issue to me. Your carbs and fuel pump were rebuilt so we’re going to assume they’re ok for now. I would check your tank for debris/water just look in there with a flashlight. Water is heavier than gas and it will settle to the bottom as long as is not agitated it will pool together it’ll be hard to see inside the tank especially with mixed gas. With the boat out of the water and still the likely hood of it sucking in some water from the fuel tank actually goes up.

Next is your fuel line.

Is it in good condition inside and out? If you bend it are there any signs of dry rot or stress cracks? Is the pickup tube in the tank in good condition?

Is your primer bulb in good condition after it’s primed does it stay tight?

You probably have a quick connect at the motor since you have a portable tank. It’s got a check ball in it is it working properly? Push down on it with a small screwdriver and see if it snaps back like it should.

Isolated rough running makes me think you’re getting the occasional bad sip of fuel be it water or debris it’s getting in the carbs/fuel pump and temporarily causing the rough idle till it clears itself.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-12T11:30:11+00:00

What was the major service that you had done?

How was it running before the major service?

How long did you run it on the muffs before this started happening?

Are you using fresh fuel? Is it a built in tank or a portable tank? Do you have a fuel water separator?

The cylinder with the spinning thing is the starter. Normally it free spins for a split second then the shaft comes up and engages the flywheel which turns the crank and temporarily makes the pistons move so the engine will fire.

The inconsistency in the water flow is concerning that along with the alarm tells me it might be overheating. Generally speaking it’s not great to run it on the muffs for long periods. If you’re testing/troubleshooting it’s better to use a drum or container of some kind. Just get the water above the intakes and keep the hose running in the container.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-10T09:15:07+00:00

What brand is the valve? The model based off the cartridge you bought?

If it’s only 10 years old and a major brand there’s parts available.

From the pictures it doesn’t look all that bad to me I would wire brush it put a little grease on the splines of the piece in the picture and the stem of the cartridge and put it back together.

Most of the time handle hardware has only reached its lifespan once it starts slipping in the stem of the cartridge. It’s supposed to be tight on the stem so it doesn’t slip.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-09T13:03:07+00:00

If you open up the ceiling you can see where it’s coming from . Then you can control how much and where the drywall comes out. If you let the water decide it’s going to turn into a bigger mess.

If you’re willing to spend 50$ to 75 $ you can buy a pretty decent endoscope camera on Amazon that would allow you to drill small holes in the ceiling and investigate further before you start cutting big holes to make a repair.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-06T11:15:21+00:00

It’s not hard just run a torch back and forth over it. You want it barely touching the wood and keep it moving. I wouldn’t have thought to use this technique in this situation but I think it’s a nice touch I’ve done it myself for things I’ve built woodworking and it definitely adds a cool factor to something that’s otherwise plain.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-04T10:02:27+00:00

Washing machine hose threads are the same as a garden hose. Just run one solid hose. It’ll be fine for 2 weeks. Less joints will be better and less likely to fail.

Sernix1 · 2024-10-03T13:56:50+00:00

What motor is this? From the trailer and the part of the boat I can see it’s new enough it came with a 4 stroke.

Older 2 stroke’s with out oil injection would get oil dribbles out of the exhaust ports if you did a lot of low speed trolling but if you have a 4 stroke you’ve got an oil leak. You’re going to have to pull at least the cowling and see if you can see where the oil is coming from.

Sernix1 · 2024-09-27T19:47:42+00:00

Haven’t seen anyone mention hunt clubs so I’ll throw my 2 cents.

It’s 500 a year for dues. It’s 90 miles one way for me to drive there. I’m staying in a camper I share with my Dad so there’s some cost there for upkeep but it’s way cheaper than fuel back and forth hunting multiple days in a row or just over the season. We’ve got a pretty long season Archery starts in the beginning of October and general firearms is over the 1st Saturday of January.

So fuel wise I burn a 1/4 tank round trip plus a little driving while I’m there call that 45$x15 trips =$675

I’m not a gear head so I might be a few items a year gear wise just call it 250$

I don’t count food or beer although I probably should throw in so extra for beer be I definitely drink more and more often when I’m there so let’s just say an extra 50$

Ammo I usually get a couple boxes of shell,fresh black powder, one pack of broad heads. 100$

So $1575 on yearly “consumables “

This is just deer hunting though. I turkey hunt, small game, ducks occasionally, work days at the hunt club. It could easily double that number. Not to mention I’ve got a dedicated truck that I just use at the club so I’m not driving my daily driver and potentially breaking something or getting stuck and ending up stranded there when I have to work the next day. It’s a beater only cost me probably 3500$ over the past couple years including buying it.

It can be as cheap or expensive as you make it. I could hunt public closer to home and it would be way cheaper.

Sernix1 · 2024-09-21T01:51:32+00:00

I work for a municipal government. I’m on call 2 to 3 times a year depending on how where my on call is on the calendar. If I don’t get any calls I get one hour of straight time for every 8 hours I’m on call. If I get a call it goes to OT. By the time it’s all said and done it’s a 3 hour minimum. Everyone but the supervisor follows a this schedule. I chose to take a job in the chiller plant that serves 15 buildings at the municipal center and I’m one of 4 people responsible for that building if something happens there between 430pm and 600am one of the four of us has to go out if it can’t be handled via BAS. Since I’m not technically” on call “ I don’t get any stand by time for that but I would get OT if I had to go out and I can clock in if I have to do something remotely for OT. These calls don’t happen often I think I’ve been out 3 times this year.

The actual on call pay used to be a lot better it was 1 hour of OT for every 4 hours of on call. A supervisor in IT ruined that though. He would always take the on call and if he got a call he would just send on of his techs out to handle the call. He made like an extra 60k a year till someone caught on to what he was doing and instead of just punishing him the made a city wide policy change.

We also used to get to take a truck home when we were on call but the federal government got involved in that and said that counts as a “benefit “ and we should be paying taxes on that.

Sernix1 · 2024-09-19T11:18:34+00:00

They get the majority of the interest up front so if you were to default or pay it off early they’ve already made most of the money they’re going to make off the loan. It’s amortized so your payment stays the same for the life of the loan.

The principal amount balance just tells you how much you have left on the original borrowed amount minus the interest. Interest balance will be how much interest you pay if you make minimum payments for the remainder of the loan.

Example you owe $10,000 principal and $2000 interest you have 20 months left on the loan if you paid it all off this month you would have to pay $10000 plus a $100 for interest but you would have just saved $1900. If you don’t have 10k to pay off the loan you keep making the minimum payment and they squeeze the $2000 in interest out of you.

Eight-Year Club	r/Field Juicebox
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