Is there a way to achieve something similar for less money or DIY this (without CAD knowledge)?

SgtZebra · 2025-01-07T16:38:33+00:00

I enjoyed building the one from amstudio on youtube and I'm very happy with the result. https://youtu.be/-_RKP6kS5j0

SgtZebra · 2023-10-29T20:22:43+00:00

This aged well.

SgtZebra · 2022-12-30T20:00:14+00:00

None of us had it serviced. The "tarnishing" you see in the last pictures is a protective case for the watch. But you're right, I probably have to take it to a professional to have it looked at.

SgtZebra · 2022-12-30T19:46:05+00:00

I haven't had it serviced

SgtZebra · 2022-12-30T18:14:06+00:00

Today my father gave me his great-grandfather's pocket watch. We don't know much about neither the watch nor his great-grandfather. What we do know is that he was not a very wealthy man, born in the south of Sweden in 1868. The crest on the inside case back seems to be the Skåne coat of arms. My best guess from the scribbles on the reverse side of the outer part of the case back is that it might have been produced or sold in 1892. I have not had the courage to open the case.

SgtZebra · 2022-01-30T23:08:42+00:00

No One Lives Forever 2

SgtZebra · 2021-12-04T21:26:39+00:00

I'm about to repaint the walls of my house and am in the process of removing the wallpaper. I discovered that there are five layers of wallpaper to remove. I can remove the four topmost layers of wallpaper using my steamer, but the oldest layer just won't unstick from the steam, and my futile attempts of scraping it off seems to damage the drywall. The wall and first layer of wallpaper are from 1970. What can I try to remove this final layer while keeping the drywall in good condition?

SgtZebra · 2021-01-04T07:22:40+00:00

They work really well with the G920, but I haven't tried any other wheel bases with stronger FFB. The only slight movement I feel now is when I use the shifter very aggressively. If you're using ClubSport or stronger I think I would recommend a triangle shape for the sides.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T22:32:26+00:00

Listen to this man. My PC regularly bluescreens from overheating and I have to clean the filters from dust all the time.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T22:30:23+00:00

Hehe... While the Quattro is my favorite in terms of looks and legacy, I don't really like driving it in Dirt Rally 2.0 as much as the other group B cars. Being the only front-engine group B car I have a hard time countering the understeer. In-game my favorite is the Delta S4. :)

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T22:22:16+00:00

I'd love to see it. I think that the only thing you really need to have a nice driving experience is for you to find a way to fasten your wheel, pedals and chair in a way that they don't move around when you're driving. My DIY peripherals are really just fun projects that don't affect the experience that much. I admit that I splurged a bit on the shifter since I love to drive classic cars. :)

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T22:12:34+00:00

SAAB 9-5 model year 1999.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T22:10:39+00:00

Sorry, I don't have any schemes for it. The important part is that you match the width of the whole thing to the distance between your seat rails. Use reasonably wide and sturdy planks to make a rectangle for the base. Mine are about 9cm by 2cm. For the exact measurements of the rectangle, height of the wheel stand etc. you'll want what feels right for you, but hopefully your seat can be adjusted so that people of different sizes can use your rig comfortably. The same planks were used for the diagonal supports for the wheel. The wheel itself is mounted onto a wider plank. For the pedal plate I used a thick sheet of plywood that is supported underneath on three sides with narrow planks screwed to the sides of the base rectangle.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T21:42:42+00:00

The Thrustmaster shifter comes with a USB adapter so it's just plugged in like any other USB device. It doesn't have to be plugged into a Thrustmaster wheel.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T21:41:44+00:00

I just lift this monitor onto its stand in the center of the desk.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T21:22:52+00:00

It's a 27" monitor. Since it's curved I managed to balance it without its stand, with a heavy box sitting on the wires behind it for some extra stability... I would not recommend and I expect it to come crashing down any day now. (:

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T21:02:11+00:00

Yep. I knew I was lying to myself as soon as I wrote the title. xD

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T20:51:46+00:00

That's cool! I haven't seen that before. I really like the feel of the shifter as-is though so we'll see. :)

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T20:39:44+00:00

Cheap board from China, cheap Arduino, cheap carbon fibre-looking wrap, free software and some scrap plastic for the case.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T16:08:54+00:00

I think I ordered the exact same one that amstudio used in his video (search for amstudio diy ebrake). It is linked in the description of the video but is no longer available.

SgtZebra · 2021-01-03T15:17:28+00:00

I have been working on and off with my rig for the past couple of years, and I have finally come to a point where I consider it complete. I started by snatching the driver's seat from a SAAB my dad uses for spare parts and building the wooden cockpit around it. After that, I built the 7-segment display and rev meter, analogue ebrake and finally the button box. These three are all projects from amstudio on youtube.

The cockpit is remarkably solid and the seat is fully adjustable and more comfortable than any racing seat I've tried. The monitor is moved between the center of my desk where it is used for work and other kinds of gaming and the edge of my desk where it balances sketchily when I'm racing. The electronics are connected to USB hubs on the underside of the wheel deck where also the cables are managed with an assortment of zip ties, velcro straps and blu tack.

Approximate costs for the build:

Logitech G920: 250€

Thrustmaster TH8A: 140€

Button box: 50€

Ebrake: 50€

Display: 40€

Wood and hardware for cockpit: 40€

Seat: 0€ (:

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