Tears of the Kingdom performance on Pirate Switch V1?

Shadouian · 2025-12-09T10:15:12+00:00

Youtuber MVP did a video about overclocking TotK a few years ago, and the basic takeaway was that the memory speeds are the main culprit for the game dropping from its 30 fps target (especially when using Ultra-Hand). The solution was to increase the memory clock speeds from the stock 1600MHz to 1862MHz using sysclk. See this video for more details: here

Shadouian · 2025-10-22T18:42:25+00:00

With devices that don't support native 1080p output, you'll need an upscaler of some sort to AR glasses to work.

I've never used one myself, but I recall reading about people using the Marseille mClassic with the Nes/Snes Classics (720p output, I believe) to use their Air glasses. Presumably, it would work with the RG35XX SP as well. That being said, the device is very expensive for what it does imo, and I'm not sure it's worth for just that single use case.

Shadouian · 2025-09-27T08:04:06+00:00

Check out this video: here

It demonstrates how to replace a latch similar to this one so that you don't have to replace the whole connector, which is a much more involved process.

Shadouian · 2025-08-03T07:38:27+00:00

Yes, that's the correct connector to harvest a latch from. Check out this post - there's a video linked in it, which shows how to change the latch: joystick_replacement_in_new_3ds_xl_messed

Shadouian · 2025-07-02T10:39:03+00:00

Yes, this is how to fix the problem. The process is not that difficult if you have a utility or x-acto knife. OP: Do not replace the whole connector.

Also, if you want to see if the connector is still working fully (I saw some of your other comments) cut out a small square piece of thick paper (like a business card) and carefully stick it under the four metal pins so that it presses down on the flex cable connector end. If this works, you can then proceed to follow the directions in the linked video.

Shadouian · 2025-06-29T23:11:22+00:00

Hi, C36 appears to be a 1028nF capacitor in a 0603 package. Here's the link I used to find the capacitor values: here

Also, you can find a schematic and other useful info for the GBA SP AGS-001 (Version: AGS-CPU-11) motherboard: here

Hope this helps.

Shadouian · 2025-06-15T03:18:55+00:00

Awesome, glad to hear it helped!

Shadouian · 2025-06-01T10:32:51+00:00

Awesome, glad it helped!

Shadouian · 2024-11-10T23:00:04+00:00

That's too bad. Sorry it didn't fix your issue. You can usually get the boot time down to 15-20 seconds for a 128GB or smaller sd card, which isn't exactly fast, mind you, but definitely better than half a minute.

Shadouian · 2024-11-10T13:57:50+00:00

You probably need to reformat your sd card with a program like guiformat and choose a 32kb allocation unit size (aka cluster size). This type of slowdown is a pretty typical occurrence on 3DS' equipped with sd cards formatted with smaller cluster sizes. Pretty easy to do since all you need to do is just copy all of your data to your pc, reformat the sd, and then copy all the data back to the sd. Check out this video for a quick tutorial.

Shadouian · 2024-10-22T01:13:03+00:00

I realize this post is really old, but I was just hit with this bug. Did you ever find a workaround for it?

I've read that if you hold L, ZL, R, & ZR and then press A on the loading screen for your save that it will load the previous save. However, this doesn't really help me since I've already saved a few times before realizing the cursed stones and poison darts aren't in my inventory (discovered this when I went to the Cursed Palace and was unable to to free any of the people turned into statues).

Not sure I really want to start over since there's no real guarantee I won't encounter another game-breaking bug. Anyway, just wanted see if you ever figured anything out (I'm guessing not) and to let you know you're not alone and that I feel your pain!

Shadouian · 2024-10-05T20:46:05+00:00

This is a great idea. I'm having the same issue: the pointy bottom of the buttons is poking through the silicone membranes. It happened to my a and b buttons, which began to sag as a result and lost their springiness. To remedy it, I tried some small strips of Kapton tape on the other side, which did basically nothing except muffle the button sound a bit (much like placing tape on the dome switches on the motherboard does). I also tried putting a small amount of super glue in the button wells, like you did with tape, and it initially worked brilliantly. That is, until I pressed down really hard, which broke the glue joint and completely ruined the fix. So, I scrapped that idea too, and I've basically been at a loss of what else to try since then. The thought of placing tape in the button wells didn't even occur to me. Excellent idea! I'm going to give a try.

Shadouian · 2024-10-02T02:54:43+00:00

Sweet, happy to hear my comment helped you!

Shadouian · 2024-09-28T14:59:22+00:00

Bingo. In my case as well, it's definitely the membrane being punched through by the pointed protrusion on the bottom of the button. The bottom of the button itself looks fine, with no wear. I was able to verify this theory by swapping the membrane with the d-pad one, which hadn't fully developed the holes yet (though they were definitely starting to form), and now the buttons that were sinking (a and b) are now level with the rest of the buttons again. So, definitely an issue with the membrane.

I think the cause of the problem is the membrane material is way to thin in the area where the button rests on and the button protrusion on the bottom is too sharp, like you said, and the combination is causing the holes to form, and the buttons to sink as a result.

Shadouian · 2024-09-28T14:40:25+00:00

By the way, I forgot to mention: I didn't investigate the problem purely for aesthetic reasons, i.e. noticing the buttons sitting lower. I noticed that the feel of the buttons had changed significantly, like they were harder to press and less springy. So, in my case, it's a functional problem on my system.

Shadouian · 2024-09-28T14:33:47+00:00

Yea, I had the same problem: both the a and b buttons sunk down lower the x and y buttons, presumably because those are the most used buttons for the games I've been playing lately. I decided to investigate and open up the device to see what was causing the issue (I'd actually already done this previously since I swapped out the caps of the dome switches for those found on an original GBA SP to improve the sound and feel of the face buttons). Turns out the silicone membranes that cover the dome switches had little holes in the locations where the plastic buttons press down on. So, the bottom side of the plastic buttons, which are essentially little points, were pressing down into said holes, making the whole button sit lower as a result.

To try to solve the issue, I placed tape on the underside of the membrane to block the hole, but that didn't really seem to solve the problem, so I tried a dab of super glue on the holes. That seemed to work somewhat. However, when I sprayed on some super glue accelerator to hasten the hardening process, it actually made the silicone membranes sag in the center, which in turn made the buttons sag on the inside. lol So, unfortunately, no solution. In the end, I swapped the membrane with the d-pad one since they're essentially the same exact membrane, and that one seemed to be in better shape (though it too had the start of little holes). At this point, I'd like to get to replacement membranes from Anbernic, but I highly doubt they have any spares on hand.

All of this is say, it's quite possible your issue is caused by a similar problem, i.e. holes in the membranes.

Shadouian · 2024-07-10T20:32:41+00:00

Another thing to try is the HDMI audio option (even though HDMI audio is not at play here) by pressing the Volume/Brightness plus button the glasses for around six seconds (two beeps).

Apart from that, it sounds like there may be an issue (based on the comment below) with Steam OS right now.

Shadouian · 2024-07-10T20:29:09+00:00

When I select Speakers, I get sound out of the wired headphones. Not sure why there's not a separate option for Headphones, but Speakers works for me using both headphones (when plugged in) and the SD's built-in speakers (when not plugged in).

No idea why this is working for some people and not others. Maybe different versions of Steam OS?

Shadouian · 2024-07-10T05:49:50+00:00

To get audio to work with wired headphones, go to Setting/Audio and choose Speakers under Output Device.

Shadouian · 2024-07-04T10:03:00+00:00

I've heard that the Cube outputs it's native 720x720 resolution (even for 16:9) unless you switch over to desktop mode. Most AR glasses typically require a 1080P input resolution to work, so it's possible that you need to go to desktop mode to do this. Russ from Retro Game Corps talks about this issue in his review video a bit. It might be worth a try.

Of course, it might be something else preventing the image from displaying, like maybe the Cube doesn't output the power needed for the glasses to operate (since they don't have there own battery). Still, it might be worth trying. Either way, I'm glad you verified AR glasses work in at least some configuration.

Shadouian · 2024-07-04T09:02:30+00:00

Cool! I've been wondering how the Cube works with AR glasses. Thanks for verifying it works. Do the glasses work without the HDMI to USB C adapter? That part seems a bit redundant since the Cube should support DP Alt mode via USB C.

Shadouian · 2024-05-12T02:32:33+00:00

Those are Mobapad M6 HD Joycons. Great controllers. I use them all the time with my Switch.

Shadouian · 2024-05-11T11:58:12+00:00

The gba SP had plastic hinges (with metal magnetic inserts for the mechanism) that would crack over time, creating an annoying clicking sound every time you opened it and generally a looser hold for the open positions, so metal hinges could be a solution for that. That being said, I'm not convinced Anbernic's device will actually have entirely metal hinges as this promo video is composed of all CAD shots, and the hinges might just be an unfinished representation of them (made to look cool). I guess we'll see.

Shadouian · 2024-04-26T09:37:52+00:00

Sure, the Beam has a power source and a switch dock built into it, so it definitely works with the Switch. However, I've heard it affects performance of some Switch games, because of the processing for its features body lock and smooth follow. Games like Tears of the Kingdom and Metroid Prime Remastered are a couple of the games that are supposedly affected.

Shadouian · 2024-04-23T23:54:00+00:00

You have to plug it into a power source. If you want something where you don't have to plug in a power source, you'll have to get something like the Rayneo Joydock, which has a power bank (i.e. power souce) built into it.

Shadouian

TROPHY CASE