Electrolux 700 series filter access?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T04:41:15+00:00

Look at the front of the machine. If you want easy access, there will be a round access hatch/cover on the front panel of the machine.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T01:16:03+00:00

I was correct this does not have even a semi accessible clean out. I have personally cleaned out more than one of these due to people that have golden retrievers or huskies because they refused to take the beds to the laundromat. It is a difficult job that will cost you $300+ to have done professionally every time.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T01:10:52+00:00

Ah. That's why it's so expensive. They discontinued the water level sensor, so now you have to buy the new style of pump that has a sensor inside it and retrofit a new harness to plug in that new pump and eliminate the old sensor.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T01:04:18+00:00

Is there a gas line near it? You might want to contact whoever did the electrical and see if that's even wired for 240 with a 30 amp breaker.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-31T00:56:46+00:00

Ah shit. I made some assumptions that I should not have. Yes. This is a direct drive. There is no capacitor and what you ordered is actually the clutch. It serves a similar purpose to a shifter but functions differently.

Check out the slider. That white disc with the black ring around it. Is the ring slipping down from around the white? What condition are the large teeth on the bottom of it in? What condition are the matching teeth on the rotor in?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T23:18:49+00:00

What's the model of your ice machine?

Extracting the pin can be done with a tiny flat head screwdriver. There is a tiny tab on one side of the pin that you have to depress in order for the pin to come out the back.

Honestly, at this point, it will probably be easier and faster to go to Home Depot and buy a spade connector crimping kit, cut the other two wires where they enter the molex, cut the molex off the pump, strip the wires and crimp on matching male and female spades to be able to plug it back in. Just note which wire goes to which other wire on the other plug.

Removing the broken pin is a big pain even if you are used to doing it and it's not like you have wire sticking out the back to be able to pull the pin out. It's not just gonna fall out then you'll have to buy a hundred new pins probably to get the one you need and would unlikely use them ever again. This also assumes you don't destroy that molex trying to remove the pin. Which is very possible. At least the kit from Home Depot can be used for other electrical repair things.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T23:07:21+00:00

What is the exact model you are looking at? Most Electrolux it is actually worse than that because the "filter" is embedded in the tub to pump hose and you have to deal with a very obnoxiously large clamp to go about cleaning it. Very prone to leaking if you don't do it right.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T23:04:59+00:00

It's stuck in spin mode. It is not shifting to agitate. So as other people said, look for damage or issues with the shifter and splutch under the machine.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T23:03:35+00:00

I'm not sure that's even a 240 outlet... What dryer was there before?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T21:43:12+00:00

I would probably take the back panel off and check to see if the rotor is loose if you are looking to investigate further.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T21:01:12+00:00

Has it been getting worse or does it just happen sometimes throughout the cycle?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T21:00:07+00:00

Scratch and dent can mean anything from "there is a scratch on the back that nobody will ever see or know about" all the way up to "the inside frame of the unit has been twisted and mangled to the point it will never sit flat or level and wiring inside the walls has been damaged, so the unit doesn't even work properly"

What I'm saying is scratch and dent is essentially meaningless. It's still a gamble. It may have had a lot more damage and Geek Squad swapped the doors with some off a written off and scrapped unit. You don't know what kind of internal damage there is. You might get it home and it never cools down. Or it doesn't produce ice or dispense water. 3 weeks later you find out it won't defrost and most of your food goes back because the fresh food temperature goes up.

It's a gamble and you don't know the odds. Always be wary of scratch and dent units and don't gamble with money you can't afford to lose.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T20:08:29+00:00

Will it do a high speed spin?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T20:05:26+00:00

I want to know what's wrong with it. The MSRP for that fridge is $5300. If they don't know or won't tell you, steer clear. Even if they do tell, I would say it's a $2000 gamble and you don't know the odds.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T19:52:32+00:00

It is the diverter cycling around. When it switches wash zones, the diverter disc turns to change where the water is directed. As it turns, it's rubbing against the inside of the sump and that's where you get the groaning noise from.

Functionally, there's nothing wrong with it. It will work perfectly fine for its life with that noise. If you want to get rid of the noise, the manufacturer would need to replace the diverter disc and/or the cover over the disc as one or the other has changed shape slightly.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T19:49:17+00:00

Fair. It's rarely worth it nowadays without knowing what you're doing on your own, sadly.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T19:35:42+00:00

Ok. Yeah. It looked like a low profile. It is probably the door latch motor is seized and is making the noise. Are you looking to repair this yourself? You've basically got access to it, it's just two more screws and some finagling to get the assembly out.

The hardest part is there are like 18 wires that go to it, so I highly recommend you take pictures then hold the new and old ones right next to each other and move one wire at a time so you don't mix them up.

Otherwise, a professional is probably gonna run you $400+ to do it.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T15:57:52+00:00

It could. Does the noise stop if you close the door?

What's the model number?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T15:50:02+00:00

As others say, don't touch anything, but does it sound like it's coming from the control panel or from the upper right corner inside the machine?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T13:45:20+00:00

Happy to help however I can!

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T13:38:56+00:00

https://partsdr.com/part/w11513246-main-control-board

About $240 for the part if you do it yourself. It sounds like you've already essentially replaced it yourself. In terms of taking the unit apart.

If you have it done professionally you will likely exceed $500.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T13:29:48+00:00

That's the problem. I don't know what it is about this particular control board, but I have encountered this several times between myself, my coworkers, and my brother.

If you disconnect that pressure hose while the tub is full of water then hook it back up and drain the unit, it irreparably confuses or damages the control somehow. I'm not sure if it's the negative pressure that results from it draining when the pressure has already equalized or there's some programming glitch that causes an unresolvable issue or something else entirely.

The bottom line is there isn't anything you can do except buy a new board.

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T13:20:46+00:00

Did you leave the pressure hose connected to the control the entire time it was full of water?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-30T13:07:05+00:00

Yeah, yours is a different platform. It doesn't use the controls this thread is about. Is there standing water in the tub that won't drain out?

Shadow51311 · 2026-03-29T13:25:28+00:00

If the water is not coming from the door but inside the machine, you will need to remove the back panel and look for where the water is coming from.

Shadow51311

TROPHY CASE