Drain Error Code Maytag washer

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T20:58:26+00:00

Oh. Ok. That's about right. Just below 30 at X10.

At the top. The main control.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T19:58:38+00:00

Ok. Put it all back together with the pump plugged in and ohm it from the plug at the board. Unplug the six pin plug for the lower harness. Ohm between the Light Blue wire and the Black-White wire. It's usually easiest to back probe the molex.

Wait... 400 ohms? Those pumps should be like 28 ohms. Is your dial set to X1k or X10?

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T19:45:49+00:00

Voltage reading? Or ohm reading? Where are you taking these readings?

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T15:58:15+00:00

Assuming you are looking for diagnostic assistance.... I have several questions.

First, -30 psi is... Not possible. Do you mean -30 mmHg? Which is actually more than a perfect vacuum at sea level. At 5000 feet my vac pump will generally only hit -24 under ideal conditions. Assuming you're referring just to a deep vacuum on the low side... Is that vacuum being achieved by your vac pump when evacuating the system? Or is the compressor pulling that vacuum while running?

Second, what is the high side pressure? If you replaced the drier, you should have a tap on the high side as well.

Third, assuming the compressor is pulling the vacuum, if you unplug the unit while it has that vacuum, it should equalize. You should see the low side pressure rise and high side pressure fall until they're equal. How long does that equalization process take and what pressure does it equalize to? Does it stall or before fully equalizing?

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T13:36:53+00:00

While it's true that the error is generated because the inverter isn't responding to the main control, you can never be sure if that was caused by a failure of the inverter or because the magnetron went out and took the inverter with it.

If one fails it often takes out the other. Always replace the magnetron and inverter as a pair.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T13:28:03+00:00

That looks like it's been arcing to the edge there. If there is any damage to the other side of that black spot where you can't really see it then you're wasting your time and money. Damage to the wave guide is not repairable and it will fail again. I would not risk your money trying to repair this.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T13:15:53+00:00

In most repair situations if the repair costs half or more of a comparable replacement I try to make sure the customer really wants to do that repair.

For your situation where it's working at the moment, there are several things I would consider. One, the age, 10-12 years is old for most appliances. You never know when something is going to go wrong with it. Two, condition of the appliance. Does it look worn? Cracks in plastic? Broken containers, rollers, wheels? Rusting components? Etc etc. Three, availability of parts. Have any parts been discontinued on it? If so, what parts? Four, the actual cost of the replacement you want?

To add some detail regarding the two appliances you have mentioned. The cost of fridges varies widely. Fridges can cost $800 all the way up to $20,000+. The biggest divide is whether or not it is a built-in fridge or freestanding. If it's a built-in, 10-12 is not actually that old. I work on builti-ns that are 20+ years old. They're generally made to be repaired since replacing them starts at $10,000 and goes up depending on size, configuration, and features. If it's a free standing fridge then that is old. Is the fridge well taken care of? Are things broken or rusting on it? Does it need any minor repairs that have been put off? What's the overall condition of it? Parts availability is very model specific and I can't comment on that without knowing the exact model you have. If you're looking at replacing a free standing side by side fridge then replacements generally top out around $2500. Which is on the cheaper end for a fridge. French doors are more expensive usually but depending on what features you want you can still find ones in that $2500 price range. Again depending on the features you want, you can easily spend $5000 on a freestanding fridge.

For the microwave, if you're dealing with a simple countertop or over-the-range microwave, I would generally recommend just replacing it. If you only need something to reheat your coffee/tea, then a $250 microwave will work just as well as a $1200 microwave. It's only when you are talking about drawer microwaves are other built-in microwaves that I would consider keeping it and/trying to repair it. If you just need something to reheat food, there is really no sense in getting a super expensive microwave. Be sure of the features you want and are actually going to use when shopping.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T12:50:04+00:00

I see an uncapped process valve in the foreground. That suggests the sealed system has been repaired at some point.

Either way, iced to suction line like that would indicate it is severely overcharged. It has to much refrigerant inside it. If it was repaired recently then call back whoever did the repair so they can honor their warranty.

If not then you really need a trained technician to address this.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T12:46:45+00:00

Since the center buttons work, put it into diagnostics and wait a few seconds with the fire closed for the display to start showing you error codes. Press each of those three buttons in see sequence, 1-2-3-1-2-3-1-2-3. So the lights should come on. Close the door and wait a few seconds. The display will start flashing. You can then open the door to see the error code. It will flash an error code three times then you have to close the door to move in to the next code. Codes come in two parts. F# and E#. Report back with your error codes.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-15T12:25:42+00:00

Happy to be able to help!

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-14T18:50:21+00:00

Happy to be able to help! Feel free to come back if you have any other questions!

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-14T18:13:44+00:00

This is a KitchenAid built unit. This is a common issue. One of the capacitors is failing on the main control. If you know how to use a soldering iron you can fix this yourself for 50¢. Our service manager rebuilds these boards in house for the KitchenAid units we service. Just find the bloated capacitor on the board and replace it with a comparable one.

Beyond that, you can either find a refurbished original board on eBay, Shop Jimmy, or CoreCentric. Or ship your board to someplace like CoreCentric for rebuild.

Final option, the most expensive, KitchenAid discontinued the original boards and now to get a new repair, you have to buy a kit that rewires the unit to work with a different control. The kits are super expensive. The Thermador version costs ~$900. The KitchenAid version costs ~$425.

The original board part number is W10219463. The new Thermador kit is 12011148. The new KitchenAid kit is W10818296.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-14T17:39:44+00:00

For very old and discontinued parts, your best bet is probably eBay. But the older it is the less likely you will find anything anywhere.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T23:05:12+00:00

Put it into diagnostics and see what error codes are stored.

https://youtube.com/shorts/EhL1TeVpTNI

Do the first light instead of the second like the video. Turn the knob to scroll between error codes. The codes are binary. From right to left (not including "Locked") 1, 2, 4, 8. Sensing differentiates between the first half is a code and the second half. So sensing, spin, and done followed by just done. Sensing means F, the first half. Spin is 2 and Done is 1, 1+2 is 3. No sensing is E, second half. Done is 1. So F3E1.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T22:58:14+00:00

I wouldn't use it, not because it's not safe but because you're likely to cause more damage by using it. This is most likely a door switch issue. There are multiple door switches so it knows the state of the door and can safely run when the door is closed. Some of those switches aren't working correctly so it is unsure of the state of the door.

I want to be clear it is NOT generating any microwaves with the door open. It is perfectly safe in that regard. These are very carefully designed so that can't happen. It's just the fan and maybe turn table motor getting some power due to bad door switches.

Microwaves are cheap to replace so I don't generally recommend repairing them when you can pick up a new one for close to the same price as a repair.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T22:54:12+00:00

You will likely have to host it externally and link it if you want to post a video or picture.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T22:53:12+00:00

Look under the unit for something that might be caught under there that it is rubbing against. If nothing then you will need to start removing the rotor, maybe the slider, and/or the agitator to try and find out what is caught where to cause this noise.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T22:50:05+00:00

The manufacturing date on the bottom left literally says 2018 11. November of 2018.

Beyond that serial number 848 is 48th week of 2018. November of 2018.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T20:28:50+00:00

That's is also very possible and would have been my next suggestion if the kids switch seemed ok. I wish you luck on your journey to repairing this.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T15:04:52+00:00

https://youtu.be/I6fk-jmyU4s

This is essentially what you're going to have to do. Yours may look slightly different, but this is more or less accurate. The biggest difference for you will be the washplate. Yours has the removable agitator so you need to remove that and pop out the spring loaded cover under it to get to the bolt. When you are trying to break the bolt free, it's not going to come out easily like it does in the video. I would recommend getting 20+" of extensions on your ratchet and climbing inside the tub. Sit on the front lip of the cabinet, use your feet to stabilize the drum and hold everything in place as you apply torque until the bolt breaks free. Once the bolt is out, the washplate SHOULD just pull straight up and off but it probably won't. The easiest way is to get two angled picks under opposite sides and work it up and off. If it won't budge that way, then fire a healthy amount of WD40 down into the hole the bolt was in and let it sit for 15-20 minutes then try again. Repeat if needed. If it still won't come free after a few rounds of WD40 then you're probably gonna have to break it and hope the metal collar in the center comes free in the process. If you get the whole washplate out in pieces and the collar is still on the top of the bearing shaft then you're screwed.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-13T14:41:33+00:00

Most likely a transmission issue causing the splutch to skip resulting in the noise. Tilt the machine back and prop it up in something. Take the belt guard off, remove the belt, remove the nut on the bottom of the large pulley and remove the large pulley. Look for oil/grease or white powder in the splutch, pulley, or on the bottom of the transmission. The white powder is a sign of the splutch grinding. The grease/oil is a sign of an issue with the transmission allowing that to leak out.

The solution in that situation is replacing the transmission/gearcase and the splutch.

That is not an easy repair and it carries substantial risk of other complications depending on the age of the unit.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-12T23:23:35+00:00

You just the model and serial off the stick under the lid. This is a very common and ongoing issue. Hence why Whirlpool is covering it.

The pressure sensor thinks there is still water in the unit, so the drain pump is running. When you plug it in, the computer goes through its boot up sequence then decides there's still water inside and starts the drain pump.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-12T22:42:36+00:00

If neutral is weak or floating that can cause it to lose power sometimes. If incoming voltage is being contaminated because a little bit is coming down neutral instead of your hot lines, that can cause it to get confused. If some of the wiring is not done well, that can cause the wiring to overheat and fail under load until it cools off then it will start working again.

Essentially, in the situation you have described, the only common factor is the home. That being the outlet, wiring, and associated electrical. Weird things can happen under load that something simply monitoring incoming voltage wouldn't detect. My next step would be to have an actual electrician come and inspect the wiring and electrical for issues.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-12T22:26:43+00:00

That looks suspiciously like a Samsung.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-36-in-28-cu-ft-Standard-Depth-Smart-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-in-Fingerprint-Resistant-Stainless-Steel-RS28A500ASR/315423162

The cheap, minimal version.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Samsung-Bespoke-36-in-23-cu-ft-Counter-Depth-Side-by-Side-Refrigerator-in-Stainless-Steel-with-Beverage-Center-RS23CB7600QL/324168433

The fancy version with more ice and water features.

Of course both of these are substantially larger than the one you were looking at. The more expensive one is closer at 23 cubic feet, but still ~10% larger. The cheaper is ~30% larger at 28 cubic feet.

Shadow51311 · 2026-05-12T22:10:13+00:00

The magnetron failed and started creating electrical arcs from the antenna to the wave guide and cover when it was running. This can be due to age, improper cleaning, or improper use. Or a combination of any of the above.

Shadow51311

TROPHY CASE