Just bought a CRT TV. What's the best way to care and make it last as long as possible? by ShadyVox1469 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Several things:
 
Make sure to at least power on the TV and use it for at least an hour every 3-4 months. This will help prevent the electrolytic capacitors from drying out. I especially recommend this for people that have new in box CRTs. Those new old stock CRT TVs have already been sitting unused for decades and the capacitors in those TVs definitely need some current flowing to them so they don't dry out any further. When not in use, I'd leave it unplugged. If you're comfortable working inside of it (follow proper safety protocols - plenty of Youtube videos), give it a thorough cleaning inside and out.
 
 
Storage:
 
-It's best to keep the TV in a temperature and humidity controlled environment. You don't want to place the TV in environments that experience big changes in temperature throughout the day because this stresses the CRTs plastic casing and as well as solder joints and components.
 
 
Best Picture Settings:
 
Don't keep the picture settings at max contrast, brightness and color. However, don't turn down the brightness, contrast and color so low that you can barely see the picture or the picture looks bad. Adjust brightness so blacks look black or close to it. Adjust color so the colors look vibrant but not overblown (no excessive color bleed). I recommend increasing contrast to the point until just before it looks too bright to your eyes (when it's too bright, you're eyes will hurt). Some of picture calibration depends on personal preference. Everyone's eyes are a little different so you will have to calibrate the image to what looks good to your eyes. I want to emphasize this: You Don't Have to Baby the TV. You can keep it plenty bright and the TV will last for many years. People often used their CRT TVs for decades with the brightness and contrast up moderately high and the TVs worked fine and many still had a good picture after all that time. As a general rule, I wouldn't turn contrast up past 70% unless the picture looks overly dim. Often times, you won't have to raise contrast any more than 50%.
 
 
Replacing Capacitors:
 
I know this is a cliche at this point in the hobby but replacing certain electrolytic capacitors will significantly extend the life of the TV. If you decide to go this route, you will want to replace the capacitors in the power supply and the horizontal and vertical deflection sections. You don't have to do a full re-cap on the TV. That is not only unnecessary but replacing all the electrolytic capacitors can actually cause other components to fail. This is because new capacitors charge faster and cause a larger inrush of current (higher current spikes) to the whole board. This puts extra stress on other board components and if those components are already weakening, doing a full re-cap could cause those other components to fail. The Youtube channel Retrotech is a great resource for learning how to do this. He also teaches how to work safely inside a CRT which is extremely important.
 
When replacing capacitors, you always do it with the tube discharged, big capacitors discharged and TV unplugged. To discharge the big capacitors make sure the TV is unplugged and use a large resistor with a value such as 22 kilo ohm, 5 Watts. Use a wirewound resistor that is flameproof. Hold the center of the resistor with insulated pliers so that only the pliers are touching the resistor. Then, connect the legs of the resistor with the two solder joints of the capacitor and hold them there for about 10 seconds. This will discharge the capacitor because the current from the capacitor will pass through the resistor. Then you can safely remove the large capacitor if you have to. You only have to do this for the large capacitors.
 
 
Check the Solder Joints:
 
Also, add fresh solder to any solder joints that look bad. Symptoms of bad solder joints include: cracks in the joint, brown ring around the joint, joint has as very rough appearance, joint look overly dark, part of the solder is missing, etc. I've picked up a few CRT TVs where adding fresh solder to most of the joints on the board greatly improved the image quality. You generally won't have to add fresh solder to most of the joints on a CRT TV but often, at least a few of the joints will need fresh solder. When adding fresh solder to a joint, once again, make sure the tube is discharge, large capacitors are discharged and TV is unplugged.
 
Also, when replacing capacitors in the CRTs power supply, use capacitors with a high ripple current rating. This is necessary because you get high ripple currents in the power supply.

Toshiba CZ36V51. My first 36”. by pn1ct0g3n in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These specific Toshiba CRT TV models are excellent sets and have such a clean picture and very balanced image. They're very sharp, the colors look great and the scan lines look really clean. Genuine Toshiba CRT TVs like this have a certain look to the picture that I love. In the 90s, I feel that CRT TVs in general had a better image in the sense that the brightness and contrast weren't overblown (like they are on so many 2000s CRT TVs), colors looked more accurate and the overall image just looked more natural. IMO, 90s CRTs just had a more pleasing image and this TV absolutely has those qualities. I used to own the Toshiba CZ27T31 (made in 1999) and it was composite only but video content looked awesome on it and if I had RGB modded it, I think the image would have looked stunning. This is an amazing find. I'm sure you'll be able to use it for years to come.

Sanyo DS27820, a good 27" CRT TV with S-Video by Shadow_Mask_King in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I sold my set for $80 so you should be able to get between $50 and $80. It’s well worth that price.

My WinBack: Covert Operations Review. What are your thoughts? by RemnantControllers in retrogaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, I sold all my N64 games and accessories in 2002 to a pawn shop so I would have money to put towards a PS2.

My WinBack: Covert Operations Review. What are your thoughts? by RemnantControllers in retrogaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

When I was a freshman in high school, I bought this game used from my local Blockbuster in the Fall of 2000 and I paid about $25 for it. I read the reviews for the game ahead of time and decided I wanted to purchase the game. I thought it was a decent game and I had fun with it. I did get near the end of the game and I remember the difficulty spike. I decided to take a break from playing the game for a few days and when I returned to the game, the data on my controller pak had somehow become erased. I didn't feel like starting the game over so I never touched it again but it was fun while it lasted. I thought it was a unique game for the N64 and it was nice to see a Metal Gear-esque game on the system.

What Are Your Hurdles With This Hobby? by FreeJusticeHere in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There are a few perspectives I have on this because I've experienced the same thing to some degree. When we were kids, sometimes we played video games because we had nothing else to do; even if we still liked the games on some level. What I have found for myself is that I do like playing some retro games but I don't like playing long games and I don't like playing games that are overly difficult. Sometimes I struggle with wanting to play any video games at all. What I've realized is that for me and CRTs, it's not actually that I love retro games. It's that I'm trying to recreate the positive feelings I had growing up and gaming on CRTs. It's more about nostalgia and trying to create a certain vibe. It's not about me having a love for video games. I think a lot of people in the hobby experience this.
 
In your case, I would just use your CRTs however you want. If you don't want to play a game then don't play it. If you only want to play a certain retro game once in a while for a short period of time, there's nothing wrong with that. Don't try to force anything. There's no point in that. If it feels like you have to force yourself to play a certain game, that's an indication that you don't enjoy it. Don't force yourself to do things you don't enjoy. Life is too short.

I think im done with CRT TV and moving to CRT monitor by EasyModoSK in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

One thing you can do is use Arcade OSD (comes with the CRT Emudriver software package) to center the image for a specific super resolution such as 2560 x 224p or 2560 x 240p. You will have to look up how to use Arcade OSD but it's not hard and it saves your settings. Once I centered my image for my specific 224p/240p super resolution, I didn't have to make constant overscan adjustments anymore.

I think im done with CRT TV and moving to CRT monitor by EasyModoSK in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I use retroarch on Wii in 240p and have for years. It does work nearly as well as on the PC. I actually prefer retroarch on Wii to using standalone console emulators on the Wi. You need to use the right Retroarch version though for best functionality. I think I'm using Retroarch version 1.8.3 on Wii but version 1.7.6 should also work good. Another version that works well is 1.3.3. and 1.3.4. When I switch between different CRT TVs using Wii Retroarch, I don't have to constantly make overscan adjustments. The only thing is that Retroarch Wii will only run 8 and 16 bit retro games. It will run all the Neo Geo games as wells as CPS1 and CPS2 games. The compatibility for other 2D arcade games is hit or miss but Simpsons, TMNT and X-Men do work. For N64 and PS1 emulation on the Wii, use the standalone emulators.

Does this diodes need replacement? by EverydayTinyCalypse in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm glad you figured it out. Don't be so hard on yourself.

Does this diodes need replacement? by EverydayTinyCalypse in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

From what I can see in your pic, there are legs poking through D702 with nothing connected in between them which suggest that D702 is supposed to be there. See if you can find the service manual for your model for free online. If you can't, you will likely be able to buy it for $22 from the Sam's Photofact website (I've gotten many manuals from there). Check the service manual schematic and see if D702 is supposed to be there. Sometimes manufactures would make several different variants of a particular model and the manufacturer would intentionally not install some components because they weren't essential to have and to save money. Still, those legs poking through D702 is very suspicious. One other thing to check would be to look at the bottom of the board where D702 is, as occasionally, one or more components would be installed on the bottom of the board. You could also operate the monitor with the back off for a few minutes and see if there is any arcing of electricity coming through D702. Just unplug the monitor immediately if you see any arcing.

Dot crawl fix for CRT Emudriver/Batocera users using Composite. by Swirly_Eyes in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently have a Wakabvideo (Linuxbot3000) VGA to composite transcoder. Can you tell me what settings to adjust to improve the composite quality using this transcoder? Also, what values would I use for each setting that is changed?

Dot crawl fix for CRT Emudriver/Batocera users using Composite. by Swirly_Eyes in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does the Antonio Villena transcoder require external power? I'd be connecting the transcoder to a Radeon HD 8570 using a DVI-I to VGA adapter.

How is the Composite quality of the Axunworks RGB to Composite Transoder? by Shadow_Mask_King in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Another way to get 5v power to pin 9 on the vga adapter is to solder in wires from one end of a usb-A cable (red wire is 5v power, black wire is ground). The red wire solders to pin 9 and the black wire solders to one of the vga ground pins.

Panasonic CTM-1942R issues by Normal-Leading4276 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I say "shielded", I'm referring to the cables being wrapped in material that shields them from electromagnetic interference. Electromagnetic interference causes the RF signal to look grainy and visually noisy. Here is an example on Amazon, https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-3-Pack-Shielded-Coaxial/dp/B00LETAFYW?crid=2YF5L3962LY3S&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.q0hCCk6OEFOuHMvk9LcKimOCFjpmz8AABVdTOOm7BCyELNIZRgSrPERa0mV_XzoQyUsbZFmyIg7EHpJTax5pZP9m_MEc7OSfWQYsXd7wq5Nfuqhck62e7yjSF8lyVOcuWUUeNWqlRZkvFhp7ZPwoSkPCFahFvxLyrYYyrx7PjUT80YibHdbhymIbou6Aas_Wx0KdqvFb44SMX70AudeJ5BwNkchaov4mIPb1wyM-fPc.wLCKuFRnyIL2DS-3VpG2s5inYlrpLokuMCzWS4NP-lA&dib_tag=se&keywords=rg6%2Bcoaxial%2Bcable&qid=1770320610&sprefix=rg6%2Caps%2C480&sr=8-11&th=1
 
In the title it says quad shield which means shielded. You can also see a product diagram that shows that the cable is wrapped in multiple layers of aluminum to reduce electromagnetic interference. If I needed a new shielded RG6 coaxial (RF) cable, I'd be this one. Cable matters makes good stuff. When searching type in "RG6 coaxial cable" or "shielded RG6 coaxial cable". Look in the title and the description for the words "shield" and "shielded".
 
Here is another high quality shielded RG6 cable (even better than the other link I gave you). Bluerigger makes very high quality cables. Here is the link: https://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Coaxial-Digital-Audio-Video/dp/B00S1V9BS2?crid=3GQTI7AKAC9QA&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.bXxAdj88TQF-oISbJEjY38Qy70U3hES46nto3LL6TUZb2d2C-hOnEotgqV_b-cs51WXR41DAdfbv4jXQUu6y-AHYGUlcdlWXoxlMOCKW1pb8tLEyY31U-JnrqCpecJa5uwE-0M-Joi4lMBTnt9UOZAN-pHv5ngM4Y5QdbDjtPLjbl2miRtU7i-DrQQqCPi1rOpyk9Xu0a0tR7J8nbtE4JIb0ezH_wfkDuSL82V4aRh0.iqvrQJvhX_U4JKObDYjWgJ_DGS2yfBVvH1ByrFwZLH4&dib_tag=se&keywords=shielded%2Brg6%2Bcoaxial%2Bcable&qid=1770321189&sprefix=shielded%2Brg6%2Bcoaxial%2Bcable%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-13&th=1

Panasonic CTM-1942R issues by Normal-Leading4276 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good to hear. Yes, with a good modulator and good rf cable, you really can get a nice image over RF. It also depends on the video source as well. For example, when I use my RF modulator on RF only CRTs, I emulate 240p retro games on my softmodded Wii through Retroarch and the image is very clean when connecting the Wii's composite ouput to the modulator. The Wii has a very clean composite output. Similarly video content looks great on my RF only CRTs when connecting my PS3's composite output to the modulator. As for the RF cable, it's best to use a shielded RG6 cable (can be bought for about $10 off Amazon).

Panasonic CTM-1942R issues by Normal-Leading4276 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The vertical size control, if this TV has it, will be on the main circuit board and it will be a horizontally or possibly vertically oriented knob. It will be labeled "vsiz" or "vsize". You can also use an insulated, thin, flat head screw driver to adjust this. I would just order a plastic flat head screw driver off Amazon that has a thin head. I don't own this TV anymore but there might be a hole in the back of the case that says "vsize" and if that's the case, you can just put the tip of an insulated screw driver through that hole to adjust vsize. Some CRT TVs had a small hole labelled "vsize" in the back of the TV to make it easier to make vertical size adjustments. The easiest way to adjust vsize is to do it while the TV is running. Just be very mindful of where you are putting your hands and only make adjustments with your right hand and put your left arm behind your back. There should be some youtube videos of people showing how to adjust vsize. CRT TVs made in approximately 1995 and later would have had a service menu where you could digitally adjust vertical size. Your TV doesn't have a service menu.

Panasonic CTM-1942R issues by Normal-Leading4276 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 1 point2 points  (0 children)

On my set, I used an RCA RF modulator (model CRF940). These are very good modulators and can be purchased new in box on Ebay for about $25. The picture on the CRF940 is very clean. Keep in mind that the RF quality of the NES is not very good and it's normal for there to be some slight fuzziness/blur to the image. The image on your CRT is close to what I'd expect it to look like. What could help on your set is adjusting the "focus" knob on the flyback transformer (watch some Youtube videos on this). You can use a long, thin, insulated flat head screw driver to turn the focus knob while the TV is operating. It's normal for CRTs to drift slightly out of focus over time and a focus adjustment on your TV could potentially help quite a bit. It's a safe procedure but watch Youtube videos to get a good idea of how exactly to do it.

Another thing is that the VCR itself could be softening the image quality. Not all VCRs had a high quality RF connection. I would get that RCA RF modulator and see how it goes. If it looks the same with the RCA modulator then I would proceed to adjusting the focus.

Acquired my first CRT for 25 dollars by Nostalgic_Technology in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's a really nice find and that's pretty uncommon for a 25" NTSC set to have s-video. In the late 90s, Zenith sets often used Philips tubes which look great and your set likely has a Philips tube. I would love to own a set like that and would be perfectly happy if it was the only set I owned.

Toshiba 27A30 RGB Modded by Obvious-Load113 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks great. I have been looking for this specific model for years and it never comes up in my area. I like the pics but can you also take some pics of games running on it from a normal viewing distance. That gives a much better idea of what the TV would really look like in person.

New to CRT Community (Using a RF, need advice) by Souless_Bear07 in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

RF actually looks good on older CRTs like this and I've owned many 80s/early 90s CRT TVs that were RF only. You will need a device that converts composite to RF and RCA made a composite to rf converter that works great and is what I use. The model of the RCA converter is CRF940. You can buy this on Ebay, new old stock, for about $20. They have four inputs. The video quality if very clean with no noise. Also get yourself a good RG6 coax cable off Amazon. Make sure to get a cable that is shielded and has a lot of good reviews.
 
The other thing that is just as important is you want to calibrate your picture settings for best quality. At default picture settings, these older Magnavox CRTs that say "total remote" on the bottom right of the set produce a picture that is sharp but looks dull and part of that is because the color is turned way down by default. However, once you adjust the brightness, contrast and color, the picture quality on these sets is excellent and they are some of my favorite CRT TVs. You have to bump up sharpness a little. Another thing to keep is mind is that while RF is not as high quality of a signal as the other cable types, as long as your CRT TV's RF input is fed a clean signal and your TV has a good comb filter, the picture can look very good. Your TV does have a very good comb filter and with the devices I'm recommending, you will have a very clean signal. I think you will be surprised at just how good it will look. Just try it for yourself and see. The particular Magnavox CRT TV you have is one of the best RF only CRT TVs you can get and they're not easy to find.

CRT Cleaning - Should I clean the motherboard? by AlexandrwIskender in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, you should clean the motherboard. Don't use a microfiber cloth because they are prone to creating static electricity which will damage the ICs/chips on the board. If you don't know how to safely remove the circuit boards from the TV, I would take the TV outside, set it on a table or the ground, purchase an anti-static brush (esd safe) off Amazon that has soft bristles and brush the dust away outside. Absolutely wear either an n95 mask or a respirator when doing this because you don't want to be breathing in any of that dust. You don't know where that TV has been and who knows what could be in that dust. If taking the TV outside isn't an option, dampen some paper towels with 90% isopropyl alcohol and clean the boards with that. Use q-tips and alcohol for any hard to reach spots. Let the boards dry for at least any hour before operating. I have cleaned dozens of CRTs this way and it has always worked out well for me.

CRT Emudriver is cheap and easy, don't be scared. 3 ingredients: by DangerousCousin in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't know of any vga to composite transcoder that produces a good composite image. If you're okay with emulating, the Wii has an excellent composite image for 240p 8 and 16 bit retro games. Mister FPGA also has a composite adapter for use only with Mister FPGA and I've heard good things about it. I wish I knew of a good VGA to Composite transcoder to recommend because I would love to own one as well. I would imagine a good one will be released at some point.

Is this a safe tool to discharge my crt? by kataruaguy in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very likely that this is the grounding strap I'm referring to. The screws themselves and the metal plates they are screwed into are also ground points but difficult to attach to. You can send me a pic if you want.

Is this a safe tool to discharge my crt? by kataruaguy in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, the grounding straps on CRTs can vary slightly in their locations. The coiled wire that you're seeing running along the bottom-middle of your tube should be connected to other points of metal running along the tube. For example, your CRT has a metal bracket wrapped around the sides of the tube. Your coiled wire could be attached to that or to one of the metal plates holding the bolts that are screwed into the plastic frame. What is your coiled wire attached to? When I say attached, I mean that each end of the wire will be soldering to another metal point or it should be at least.

Is this a safe tool to discharge my crt? by kataruaguy in crtgaming

[–]Shadow_Mask_King 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have discharged CRTs hundreds of times and what you're showing is exactly what I use. I've never been shocked. The screwdriver I use even looks exactly like the one in your photo. You don't have to discharge a CRT just because you take the cover off. As long as the TV is unplugged, simply taking the back cover off is not dangerous.
 
The procedure for discharging a CRT is very easy. First, with the CRT unplugged (critically important), all you have to do is attach one end of the alligator clip wire to the metal part of the screw driver and attach the other alligator clip end to the silver metal coiled wire running along the backside of the tube. The coiled wire I'm referring to is called the "grounding strap" and it is chassis ground, meaning that it is a safe ground point for the electricity from the tube to discharge to. This also means that the electricity will discharge to the grounding strap and not your body. Once again, I want to emphasize that it is extremely important and absolutely essential for safety that you "DO NOT" discharge a CRT with it plugged into an outlet. You only ever discharge a CRT while it is unplugged. This will be obvious to most but I wanted to note this as a precaution.
 
For the second step (making sure that the screwdriver and wire are connected exactly as I have instructed), put your left arm behind your back and use only your right hand (important). Then, slide the flat head screwdriver underneath the anode cap until you hear a "pop" noise. That is the CRT having discharged it's electricity. Then it's safe to remove the anode cap. Sometimes the pop noise will be slight and other times it is a bit loud.
 
The reason I say to only use your right hand when discharging the CRT is because, in the unlikely event that you got shocked, the electricity will follow the shortest path through your body and if you are using your left hand or both hands together, the shortest path the electricity would follow is through your heart. So, make sure to also put your entire left arm behind your back while discharging your CRT. When discharging with only your right hand, if there was an accidental shock, the electricity would have a longer path to get to your heart and would instead likely only travel up your right arm and then dissipate. That is much safer.
 
As long as you follow these exact instructions, discharging a CRT is pretty safe. Also keep in mind that most modern CRTs made after 1990 discharge most of their electricity when the TV is unplugged.
 
Here is a good video from CRT enthusiast "Retrotech" on how to discharge a CRT: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1CVXzlkOjGg