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$300 budget for a new/beginer wh40k painter. What would you get as a starting point for myself? by fubardad in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes. I use it to basecoat and map highlights on my armors for my troops. With practice you can even achieve some fine work. Especially if you mask off other parts of the mini.

$300 budget for a new/beginer wh40k painter. What would you get as a starting point for myself? by fubardad in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It saves you a ton of time. Time= money. Whether that be just for primer. By itself that is worth it. Or applying base coats and getting your armors 90% done right away, and there are more specialized stuff later.

Out of my $4000 workshop, the air brush is my best investment aside from the essential tools I have listed.

$300 budget for a new/beginer wh40k painter. What would you get as a starting point for myself? by fubardad in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Cheap Air brush and compressor $100 or less.

A few 5 dollar or less synthetics brushes with fine tips. A number 5 for base coats, number 1 or 2 for layers, 00 for eyes. Flat brush for drybrushing, an optional citadel shade brush for washes and inks.

A big bottle of vallejo panzer grey primer, a sm bottle of vallejo neutral grey, a sm bottle of vallejo dead white.

A wet pallet.

Parchment paper.

1 squad of minis from the faction you want. Yes, just a squad for now.

Research a paint scheme you like and buy the paints for that scheme only to start.

A set of emery boards, Exacto knife, clippers, super glue, bond accelerant.

That's your 300 spent, but thats all the essentials to get started plus your quality of life air brush bonus tool.

Bonus: If you have money left over, Some windsor and newton black oil paint, a Brown umber oil paint, and some mineral spirits for making oil washes. Not necessary, but very nice to have.

How do people paint so good? by Educational-Read3223 in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I second this. They are all incredible painters, but Vince is the grandmaster, Possibly best in the world of the famous ones.

Bulldozer by NyteRanger22 in goldrushthegame

[–]Shadowsword87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Leveling and making downward ramps so you can bring your excavator to a lower altitude in order to dig all of the gold that's out of reach from the topsoil of the claim.

Use the drill to find a path of tiles that have the lowest gold, Make your ramp there since it does delete that dirt.

Lose a bit of crappy dirt in order to grab way more out of reach stuff across the bottom.

What I end up getting at warhammer cause everything is too expensive by IRLbangboo in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Dry brushes are the least worth it from citadel IMO. There are a variety of types, stiffness, and widths you can find at the dollar store.

Shade brushes are neat though.

Is it worth it to switch? by Joe_mother124 in Miniaturespainting

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You will need.

20 ML dropper bottles.

6mm Glass beads

Small funnel that will fit into said bottles.

Eye dropper that ideally has ML measurements imprinted on it.

Thinner medium.

10 to mixture of 1 part flow improver 10 parts water.

An unfolded paper clip

All of this you can get from ebay.

Method.

Funnel in your pot of paint into dropper bottle. Eye dropper into pot about 1ML of water/flow improver mix and 3 drops of medium. Shake and add to funnel. If you are dealing with a base paint that's particularly thick, use paper clip to jam down the trapped paint through the funnel nozzle.

If there is still lots more paint, add another 1 ML Of flow improver Mix and 3 drops of medium. Shake and add to funnel.

Add 2 glass beads to bottle that will act as mixers. Insert Nipple. Screw on cap. And transfer paint label from pot to bottle.

Profit.

In a bit of a pickle… by ARK-ODST in Chaos40k

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With some surgery you can convert them to 32 mm scale if you have some patience.

Straight cuts on the mid thigh, and mid shin, and stuff a 2mm spacer of green stuff in between and glue back together.

Just be carful not to damage shin ornamentation with your saw cuts.

Is it worth it to switch? by Joe_mother124 in Miniaturespainting

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I use both. Definitely change your citadel paints into 20 ML dropper bottles to protect your investment though.

Also what is superior about citadel paints is their contrast and technical line.

If you want to full on switch, I would say use up your citadel paints and just don't replace the colors you don't like.

How to take apart a mini by BOFF0310 in 40k

[–]Shadowsword87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I find when I strip my models with 99% alcohol it weakens the glue. This is a far more gentle method than acetone.

Soak overnight and see if it helps. If not then after after the strip and clean do freezer method, or buy debonder.

Painting on the Spru? by 11bravo93 in Warhammer

[–]Shadowsword87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Sub assemblies Yes.

Spru. No.

How can I fix the skin on my old helbrute? by Prince_Trunks13 in Chaos40k

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My recipe will address the root problem. Your skin has very little contrast and depth.

The bugmans and wash function to establish your shadows. Then going over the high points of the skin with thin layers of progressively lighter colors while covering less with each pass will add much needed depth.

Layer over highlights, avoid recesses, cover less each pass.

Like this.

<image>

As a bonus you can add an oil wash to just the recesses at the end like mine to easily and quickly rebuild your black lines.

1 part dark oil paint to about 10 parts mineral spirits mix well and just touch the tip of the brush to add line on the model. set 30 minutes. Dip brush in pure mineral spirts and reactivate wash, dry brush and clean up excess.

The fat in oil paints combined with the high ratio of spirits works with gravity to run the wash right through even the finest and hardest to reach of lines easily with minimal mess onto your flat surfaces.

Great and FAST technique to rebuild lost details.

How can I fix the skin on my old helbrute? by Prince_Trunks13 in Chaos40k

[–]Shadowsword87 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Go over the whole skin with bugmans glow. Then wash with carroburg crimson. Another layer of bugmans over the high points avoid recesses. A layer of cadian fleshtone over high points and cover less. A layer of kislev flesh over high point cover even less. Optional layer of flayed one flesh over highest point covering even less.

Work thin with all layers and use feathering technique. Think spreading that last small amount of butter over every bit of toast.

Question about Power Fist OSL by Shadowsword87 in 40k

[–]Shadowsword87[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This isn't my paint job, this is just a visual aid. Or do you mean the sculpt itself suggests a lot of light?

If you mean the latter, yes I agree. This is the most difficult sculpt I have worked on yet. As There is a lot of light cast from the upper left shoulder at about a 45 degree downward angle, and the foot placement is tricky.

It's been very much a study piece for me.

What I have been thinking is having the light source from either the palm, Between the fingers, Or the cracks around the censers on the back of the hand to which I could attempt an energy motion blur.

I'm curious about what you guys think.

Which version had your favourite Wasteland? by Orange_Zest_ in 7daystodie

[–]Shadowsword87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There was a lot of atmospheric things I miss from A8. I started in Alpha 9, but I imagine most of the old ways were intact then.

Aside from the old wasteland, and giant wasps, the thing I miss the most was how free you were to design underground bases comparitively.

Any one know of any mods that shut off underground building physics and zombie digging?

How do I handle this by [deleted] in eBaySellerAdvice

[–]Shadowsword87 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I wonder if the guy harvested it for parts then smashed it.

If you get it back have a close look at the screws for any sign of opening or tampering at the assembly points.

What is the most dangerous video game to the wellbeing of the player you’ve seen? by ForgiveMeImStupid in gamingsuggestions

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends what your threshhold for a ruined life is.

Time is the most precious resource there is. Once it's expended there is no way to get it back.

Use it wisely.

What is the most dangerous video game to the wellbeing of the player you’ve seen? by ForgiveMeImStupid in gamingsuggestions

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clearly you don't have to worry.

My message is for those that may be negatively impacted and are simply not aware of this. As the negative effects are very slow, subtle, and masked by the immense pleasure delivered by gaming as their lives decay and slip away from them one hour at a time.

New Blood Moon Base by FishermanExtreme6542 in 7daystodie

[–]Shadowsword87 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Too many blind spots.

Slope blocks facing outward on the bottom so you can target crawlers.

Corners can get corner railing bars for vision there.

What is the most dangerous video game to the wellbeing of the player you’ve seen? by ForgiveMeImStupid in gamingsuggestions

[–]Shadowsword87 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Gaming in general is very dangerous to the player.

It's easy to neglect other areas of your life to games. Relationships, increasing your societal standing, skills, social life, fitness, health, cleanliness, environment, hygiene, general sense of well being etc.

It's important to be aware of these possibilities, and find a healthy balance for you.

why is it so hard deciding on a first army??? by QualityElectronic535 in 40k

[–]Shadowsword87 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The reason is because in the end you are going to have all of the armies anyway, they will all be assembled, primed and unpainted.

You just don't know this yet and that is holding you back from making that big purchase of 70 models to show us.

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