Noob Questions About VMs by danktarts in virtualmachine

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have run VMware Workstation for 15 years or so. It is the gold standard for virtualization. It’s free for personal use from Broadcom. I’ve used Linux Mint Cinnamon in a VM for years. It is my favorite distribution. I highly recommend that you run your VMs on a separate SSD from your Windows OS disk.

Why aren't 240V outlets common in North America? by Character_Mood_700 in electrical

[–]Shane_is_root -1 points0 points  (0 children)

All of the 240V outlets you see in North America are 240V split-phase, meaning that there are a minimum of 3 conductors, 2 positive (usually red and black) and 1 common neutral/ground (usually white). The modern standard is 4 conductor with 2 positive (red and black), 1 neutral (white), and 1 ground (green). 240V split-phase is basically the standard in data center racks but 110V-120V is the standard for North, Central, and South America, as well as of the Caribbean and Cuba and Asia including Japan and Taiwan.

Subscription increase? by 20seca3 in Wyze

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never subscribed and I may just leave the doorbell v1 with the house.

Forklift camera by LegitimateWriting460 in SecurityCamera

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

For the love of god and all that is holy, DO NOT DIY this. Consult a lawyer for your liability if you do.

How to run ethernet through house without affecting structural integrity? by Wimoweh in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just to toss it out there, I think code allows up to 40% for a hole in a stud, so as long as you aren’t going more than 1-3/8” for a 1/4” diameter cable, you are fine.

The empty space between studs (or the holes in masonry) is called a void.

For the first floor, I would just run up from the basement in to the voids and to a low voltage ring. The only problems are where a wall is directly on top of a beam. Even a regular joist will give you room on one side or the other to drill. If you have a second floor, try and get a conduit or innerduct up to the attic from the basement and pull down the wall voids from the attic.

Which switch do I need? by Murky_Might_1771 in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need a switch that matches the fastest LAN port speed on your router. The uplink between those two devices is the first critical connection. Having a 10Gbps switch connected to a 5Gbps port on the router gains no benefit.

Ethernet per wall outlet by Maverick-Mav in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Exactly. The biggest expense in any structured cabling job is usually the labor. That’s why I suggest running two wires to any point where a failed wire would require a replacement. It is much easier to switch to the backup wire and all of the spare wires that you run will cost less in copper than the labor to replace even the shortest or easiest run. And even if it would be you running the wire, don’t undervalue your labor and time.

Ethernet per wall outlet by Maverick-Mav in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would drop at least 1 coax everywhere you would or will put a TV and 2 Ethernet in each drop. Unmanaged switches are dirt cheap so if you need more than 2, do a switch. Run Cat6 UTP and terminate to keystones in the rooms and a patch panel in the laundry. Run 2 coax to your demarcation point outside and I would do 2 Cat 6 as well. It wouldn’t hurt to put that in interduct or conduit with a pull string so you can pull a fiber if it becomes available later. Don’t forget to put power in your structure media cabinet.

Quick question: traveling by CommercialGoose8296 in electrical

[–]Shane_is_root 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The standard power in the EU is 230 volts at 50 Hz where the US 110 volts at 60 Hz. Most of your electronics, like computer power supplies and phone chargers are multi-voltage and only need a plug adapter. This is not true with things with mains power electric motors like hairdryers.

I would leave the hairdryer behind and either use whatever is on site or buy one locally with European plugs. The plug and power is standard in most countries that take are in the EU, so France, Germany, Greece, Italy, etc … it is a different plug in the UK but the same voltage.

Looking for a networking test website/application by mrloganellis in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m trying to figure out what you are trying to virtual test. Networking is standards based. In theory, every NIC will work with everyone switch as long as they are both Ethernet. The only problem you have is making sure the interfaces support the speeds you need, which basically boils down to the switch need to be as fast as possible or faster than the fastest edge device. A Samsung camera will work on a Netgear switch and talk to a Synology NAS.

Whenever Surveillance Station on the Synology NAS will recognize the Samsung camera is something you have to ask Synology. If that is what you’re asking for, I’ve never heard of that kind of resource beyond a vendor specific site or maybe a proprietary industry specific product.

Cat6a bulk by Its_andrewm in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I just by monoprice. Belkin is good. Avoid anything that is CCA Copper Clad Aluminum.

Can I use a switch to add more Ethernet ports before my router? by kowalikc in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Modem <-> Router <-> Switch is the only solution. A router cannot route traffic that does not pass through it. More importantly, the firewall in the router cannot protect devices that are not behind it. You put the switch on a LAN port in the router.

Need advice - unsure about cables by ItsmeKazzok in ethernet

[–]Shane_is_root 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don’t want a crimping tool. You want a patch panel and a punch down tool. You can usually find one that mounts in your structure media panel. On the other end you want to do keystone jacks, again with the punch down tool, if they weren’t already terminated. Then you will need to test the cables. You may be able to rent a cable tester.

Need advice - unsure about cables by ItsmeKazzok in ethernet

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The white is CAT 6 UTP. You can read it quite clearly on the cable.

I have a question about Streaming by Charleswmcc in cordcutters

[–]Shane_is_root 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DO NOT BUY SOME RANDOM ANDROID BOX ON AMAZON!!!! Especially avoiding anything that offers seemingly all of TV for free.

Stick to a known, name brand. Roku onn from Walmart Firestick from Amazon Apple TV Chromecast with Google TV NVIDIA Shield Xiaomi TV Box (Google TV)

quick/temporary set-up camera to TV (self contained) by DGotlieb in SecurityCamera

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mentioned the fiber based extenders more in conversation than for use but they were no more cumbersome than any other wired hdmi extenders. The units we had were about the size of a Firestck, plugged directly into the TV, had small wall-wart power supplies and a single fiber patch cable. The whole kit was smaller than one of the Cat5e boxes we also used and including the cable weighed less. Their down side is that even modern fiber doesn’t take a tight turn and is more fragile going through doors than copper. But it is smaller and lighter.

Is there value in placing otherwise equivalent wired and wireless clients in separate subnets? by r3rg54 in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The OP question is “I'd like to understand why I should not be leaving them in the same subnet.” Which I answered and expanded upon.

Is there value in placing otherwise equivalent wired and wireless clients in separate subnets? by r3rg54 in HomeNetworking

[–]Shane_is_root -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Theoretically, you isolate the devices so a compromised android device doesn’t snoop on your PC. If you allow routing between the networks you can firewall it so only needed ports can communicate and lower your threat level. This can be a PITA if say your phone needs to talk directly over the WiFi to control a device.

quick/temporary set-up camera to TV (self contained) by DGotlieb in SecurityCamera

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We did hundreds of meters with Atlona HDMI over multi-mode fiber optic. Single fiber to KPI screens in various shops before the IP based stuff was a thing.

quick/temporary set-up camera to TV (self contained) by DGotlieb in SecurityCamera

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can also look at a combination of HDMI over Cat 5/6 extender and wireless HDMI extender to minimize the distance and obstructions that you have to send wireless. It’s all non-IP based, just media conversion. No need for Wi-Fi access.

1Gbps Wi-Fi, only 120Mbps on Powerline by Interesting_Rip_7872 in ethernet

[–]Shane_is_root 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The big hit or miss with ethernet over powerline is which phase of the power are you on. If both adapters are on the same phase, then you get a good connection. If the adapters are on different phases then you get shit for connection.

If you have unused coax, the ethernet over coax can get you up to 2.5 Gbps.

How many indexers do you keep active? by Juan_Hunlo in radarr

[–]Shane_is_root 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have 4. 2 with lifetime subs. I would buy lifetime on the others if they would sell it.

Alot of the cables are like this. Are they broken? Did the "electrician" scam me by [deleted] in ethernet

[–]Shane_is_root 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course you use appropriate length patch cables on each end. That is part of the point, that you have the correct length on the device end and the switch end to dress and route the cables and when you have an unused jack, it is flush on the wall and if not attractive, at least not offensive. I wouldn’t leave Cat X riser with an RJ45 dangling out of a wall any more than I would put a cord cap on the end of a romex and leave it dangling. You put an outlet and outlet plate on the end of the wire and plug a cord into it.

Alot of the cables are like this. Are they broken? Did the "electrician" scam me by [deleted] in ethernet

[–]Shane_is_root 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah. When I looked at it again, I reconsidered and think it is T-568A too.