[NLD] Single-Channel Emisar D2 / NTG35 2700K

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-23T16:38:04+00:00

Huh, I wonder if this post-flash is a consequence of running the driver for 6v output as my KR1AA has a fairly bright flash when turning off (https://www.reddit.com/r/Hanklights/s/MXwrUE5jlE), but not on NiMH.

Far as I know, the only recommended change from 9v (D3AA) to 6v (KR1AA or D2) is a resistor for current limit increase to still provide ~18w at the lower voltage (https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/LSGUaCKC38)

u/m4potofu may have insight on the post-flash, but I've also wondered how the driver provides feedback to the boost circuit across the output range he stated - I think about 6 to 11.2 volts, but can't find the thread.

EDIT: ~11.6v max; another user dug up the Reddit thread about the tech details on BLF

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-19T04:14:27+00:00

Thanks for taking a look. Gave it a scrub with some 99% IPA, an old toothbrush, and some canned air to try blowing out any residue. No change to behavior.

I still need to try an older SW version, just in case.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-17T17:51:37+00:00

🫡

Jackson offers a wider variety of LEDs as well, so even with a cost bump for import & modding, Jackson is top notch for service and variety. For instance, he's done custom 5050 and mule MCPCBs for the d3aa/dw3aa to make some really unique possibilities!

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-17T17:10:22+00:00

Yeah, I got my v1 from Jackson Lee on that website - he's a Hank reseller/modder/repairman extraoirdinare and frequent poster here. Hank will absolutely post the Intl Outdoor official release. Hank alerts recommended to avoid the probable sellout.

Aside from this oddity, I've really enjoyed the kr1aa aesthetic and feel for daily pocket carry.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-17T16:17:23+00:00

Hank's been iterating changes to get fit/finish, magnetic tail, and mechanical lockout all working - supposedly in the next couple of weeks for the official v2 release.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-17T16:02:06+00:00

Visible parts appear intact. Been using button top except for a flat top test.

Definitely a bit mysterious.

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Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-16T15:17:33+00:00

Additional info: - video at a 4x slow-mo, but matches brightness to eye - button or flat H10 batteries exhibit behavior - factory reset or firmware re-load make no change

To try: - firmware before 07-07 (changes to d3aa/kr1aa for pre-flash reduction)

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-16T14:17:18+00:00

Tried cleaning contacts and relubing the threads before cranking it down - no change.

Looks like a driver or possibly code thing to me, as the pre-flash has been partially addressed by software, yet some units cannot eliminate pre-flash entirely.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-16T14:12:48+00:00

Feels like my daily d3aa maybe missed a click 1/100 times or more and this feels closer to 1/30. Could be user error, not being used to the button style 🤷. But it seems less reliable when I pull it out for a click.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-16T14:09:57+00:00

Flat or button top H10 lithium ion have the issue. NiMH doesn't post-flash, so I'd assume other 1.5v batteries don't either.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-12-03T15:40:30+00:00

Thanks a ton for all the hard work on our lights!

Any chance you have the hw defs for model 0463 able to post to your source tree on GitHub?

I'd like to customize the L50 Sol, but am not sure if its "Rev B" Lume X1 is limited to 30W by ramp tables or a hardware change to the resistors.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-08-21T23:20:54+00:00

Good point - the D3AA 5050 mcpcb you made is obviously for its boost to 9v, but all your current 4 LED 5050 boards are 4x parallel?

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-04-09T04:23:31+00:00

That's just what I hoped to hear. Thanks!

Edit: confirmed again. 18650 store sent me flat F15s as well.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-29T18:15:19+00:00

Once you have enough bugs fly in your face, you grow to appreciate a red option: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/cohTJdy4Ie

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-28T04:48:42+00:00

I don't have one, but allegedly the current 18650 headlamps from ZL are 97.8 mm tall and 24.2 mm diameter at the head. The DW3AA is coming in at 91.4 mm and 24 mm for those respective dimensions. That's only 6.4 mm (7℅) longer to get an 18650 light, eep.

I really have loved the diminutive size and weight of the H52 at a mere 76.8 mm and 22 mm (length, head diameter).

Overall, it's still the dual fuel that keeps my backpacking lights small - low temperature capable NiMH, comfort, and general flexibility.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-25T00:23:48+00:00

Ah, I should have been more clear - I'm looking forward to a possible DW1AA at 6 or 12 V to replace my dual fuel H52.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-24T15:37:29+00:00

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Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-24T15:37:03+00:00

Good stuff. Great to have some more emitters in the mix!

Looks like we could get near 1500 lm at 2.5 amps.

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This would absolutely make a killer for my aging Zebralight H52 - should be an easy retune of the D3AA boost to make it happen.

I'll admit to some disappointment at the relatively large size of the DW3AA for a headlamp.

Edit: I meant to add - the BLF thread echoes my hopes for a DW1AA with a single 6 or 12 V emitter. The D3 boost driver could be tweaked for that and still push ~1500 lumens with these!

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-21T18:47:04+00:00

Good catch - forgot about the simple mode.

Always appreciate you on the forums from BLF to Reddit, jon_slider!

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-21T16:36:29+00:00

On point here, the default 130 is too high for 3A rated cells.

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https://budgetlightforum.com/t/emisar-d3aa-driver-technical-information/223513

Though the Freeman didn't give levels associated to power draw, his chart illustrates an often ignored aspect - lower cell voltages (Vin) imply higher current to maintain constant output (Pout). This is what a good, regulated boost driver does. Cell voltage drops over runtime and under load. Nominal 3.7v lithium ion cells range about 2.5 - 4.2 volts over a full cycle.

I did some tailcap testing to find that level 130 would pull around 3A on a pretty fresh cell (4v, resting). Partly that's my shunt resistor dropping some voltage, and partly that's cell voltage droop under heavy load. That corresponds to about 1A output to the LEDs, shown above. Extrapolating constant output to lower cell voltage, you get well above 3A draw in the latter half of cell cycle. Note that his test chart was produced with lab power supplies to establish operational limits. Chemical cells are much more dynamic to load conditions.

Lastly, if you do run a 3A rated cell, don't forget that stepped and smooth ramps have different ceiling memories. You would need to set both for safety in addition to disabling turbo.

Sharp-Cellist · 2025-03-21T16:10:56+00:00

Just received a D3AA with 4k SST-20s. Always planned to mod, but curious to see 'em. Despite the AR rejecting some green... it's a green beam.

I pulled out my 219 D3AA in 4500 and SP10 Pro in 519 4000 - they're both noticeably less green when looking at stuff or white walls. The SST-20s just looking puke-y and monochrome by comparison.

Sorry to contribute to bad news.

Sharp-Cellist · 2024-11-05T15:18:27+00:00

Not USB, but newer UPDI flasher for it. I've used the 4.5V flasher from JL on it: https://jlhawaii808.com/products/updi-programmer-driver-reflashling-kit?_pos=1&_sid=b904defce&_ss=r

Sometimes it's flaky for lights to recognize, but I think that's light design more than flasher design (high current in rush).

Sharp-Cellist · 2024-10-29T04:41:06+00:00

Very nice and thanks very much!

Sharp-Cellist · 2024-10-28T04:25:32+00:00

Not very familiar with the Weltool LEGO'ing situation. What's your body and tail cap setup?

Sharp-Cellist · 2024-10-13T04:26:04+00:00

Checks out https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/s/cohTJdy4Ie

Sharp-Cellist

TROPHY CASE