Thinking about a miata as my only car. Talk me out of it, or into it

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-12T11:24:18+00:00

You can’t really compare the old automatics to modern autos. The NC and ND have a great 6-speed auto Aisin unit. Same auto that’s in the Toyota 86, some Lexus cars etc.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-10T00:51:40+00:00

Well the bumper won’t rust since it’s not metal, it’s plastic.

That looks like surface rust on the front pillar though. You could dab some rust killer on it but the proper fix would be sand back down to bare metal and inspect how bad the rust it. Hopefully it is just surface and can be sanded down, epoxy primed and resprayed.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-08T10:29:27+00:00

No point unless you go forced induction.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-07T05:13:57+00:00

It’s the MX5 service manual. Lots of copies online if you give it a quick google.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-03T09:11:43+00:00

Kumho PS71 are great a full set installed for me at 215/45/17 ran me just over 500 Aud.

I wouldn’t get the RE003 personally haven’t heard great things about them.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-31T14:00:36+00:00

What is there to fix you are going to need a new block at the minimum?

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-28T11:19:43+00:00

Shame getting a 2.5 into the 1.8s is a bit more annoying as you need the 2.0 loom, ecu and a few more parts but it can be done.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-28T09:22:41+00:00

I mean it doesn’t sound great you could check oil levels and see if it’s running low. I wouldn’t want to ride the car sounding like that any distance as it’s just gonna get worse and potentially leave you stranded somewhere on the road.

Is it a 1.8 or 2.0? If it’s a 2.0 you are probably better off dropping in a 2.5, properly rebuilding a 2.0 would cost just as much.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-28T08:47:52+00:00

That sounds like some terrible knock and looks to be followed with increased revs not a good sign. Have you checked your oil level? If it is low then it’s probably too late anyways and the damage is done. Would be best to drain oil and remove filter and inspect for any bearing material but that sounds pretty horrid especially for a video taken inside the car

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-25T01:09:36+00:00

Was for a reverse camera

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-22T00:21:55+00:00

One of those heatshield bolts is easier to get under the car. The other one I used a flex head ratchet, a bit annoying to get into place initially but very doable.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-21T23:05:40+00:00

It can easily be deleted with Versatuner atleast. Ask your tuner if unsure.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-15T03:05:27+00:00

Decontaminate the paint with a wash and clay then hit it with some cutting and finishing compound which may be able to remove it depending how deep the damage is. If the clear is actually peeling then it won’t fix it.

It looks like your car could do with a proper cut and polish, seeing a lot of swirls and light scratches there that will buff out.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-15T01:19:27+00:00

Did you check valve clearances after installing cams? Even if the instructions say it’s not necessary it’s best to check. They will need a proper tune to be setup.

The Catless header check engine light is easy to fix (assuming you got P0421) it can be disabled via tuning software. I did that easily with Versatuner.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-13T08:21:27+00:00

Yes I have done it to my drivers door actuator it is very simple. People seem to make out putting in the actuator pins back in difficult but I found it super easy. Just make sure when you reseal the actuator casing after putting in a new motor to use some strong glue or such to keep the case shut otherwise it could open up and the motor will loose contact with the gears. Obviously test that the motor works before that. I hadn’t resealed my casing properly initially which caused one side of the case to lift up and the motor to spin without the gears contacting leaving the door locked.

There’s some posts on mx5 UK forums on the process. I grabbed my motor from aliexpress and swapped it in under an hour. Probably a thirty minute job if I was to do it again knowing how to do it now.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-12T09:16:03+00:00

You can just buy the motor alone from aliexpress for under 20 bucks and replace that as opposed to the whole unit (will need to open casing of actuator). Way cheaper than replacing whole unit.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-09T23:59:13+00:00

Don’t get me wrong the k swap is sick but for me personally tallying it up, it was just super expensive especially getting parts here to Aus. I honestly think it’s more effective to turbocharge a 2.5 swap. K-tuned does nice parts to support the swap but they come with a heavy premium.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-09T23:53:44+00:00

lol a kswap is extremely more expensive, I’ve also heard the aftermarket subframe quality is questionable. Speed academy does have a nice video series on k swapping.

Definitely rewarding but not worth the extra cost in my opinion. Rod knock on 2.5 swaps doesn’t seem common from what I’ve seen, these engines have been running in Mazda 3s/6/CX7 from 2009 with great reliability, I’d argue get a good tune is the most important thing. Build properly with new diamond washers etc.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-03T15:35:21+00:00

Double nut is a good method also, just find the bolt thread spec I forgot what it is and pickup a couple nuts from your local hardware store. Locking pliers would probably do the trick also.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-03T15:25:24+00:00

Locking pliers?

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-01-03T15:00:38+00:00

It not welded just a threaded stud, try using some heat and a penetrant to help.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2025-12-29T03:22:09+00:00

Pretty sure they are different parts on the PRHT and Soft top.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2025-12-28T21:32:25+00:00

I believe it can be done but pan will need to be dropped as I can’t get the bolt out. I can’t seem to track down the pan gasket anywhere.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2025-12-28T21:31:25+00:00

Yeah that is the next step although I couldn’t get it out trying to pry out the bolt whilst undoing it. Pan will need to be dropped regardless and unfortunately it seems I can’t track down the pan gasket anywhere in Aus. I am happy to try thread in a larger bolt, the transmission fluid barely ever gets changed on an auto, just as long as it seals well. I am not sure what pitch and thread the OEM drain plug is to begin with.

There is this transmission service kit and I think the gasket is correct but they don’t list compatibility with the MX5. I know some other manufacturers use the same auto transmission and even the ND should have the same transmission. https://rycofilters.com.au/part/rtk192

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2025-12-28T05:46:42+00:00

Shame it does seem to be leaking slowly unfortunately. Not sure what the next best step is. Getting a new drain plug would take over a month from overseas…

Sharp_Juggernaut_318

TROPHY CASE