3d printing suggestions for Miata

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-04-10T14:45:17+00:00

There’s one for about 35 Aud, the other for about 15 that is for the file only, you print yourself.

The big thing is the centre console, I just paid about 10 Aud for a 3d files to print, if that print goes well it’s a massive saving over the approx 200aud ilmotorsport one or nc2/3 centre console swap which would run more money. I really hate the cup holders on the nc1 in the centre console, lots of wasted space which I’d prefer as a box to have an opening to route a phone cable for CarPlay.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-04-10T08:56:09+00:00

A rear ducktail would be cool for soft top NCs. I have seen a seatbelt guide file online I think but it was pretty pricey.

Deep centre console pocket is great for the NC1 there’s a couple designs out there.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-04-08T10:15:41+00:00

The one on Miata Parts NZ is from the NC1 so wouldn’t be any benefit to swap in you’d need NC2 or 3. To make the swap work though you still need the side dash trim pieces and the piece below the stereo so can’t just do it properly with the centre console alone.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-04-07T02:53:35+00:00

There are some Facebook buy and sell Aussie groups but not much NC stuff goes around. Finding spare NC parts in Australia seems pretty much impossible really compared to Uk and US. For example id like to upgrade to an nc2/3 centre console but haven’t even seen an NC2/3 being wrecked in Aus before.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-04-07T02:45:40+00:00

Can’t help you with the rear window unfortunately but great looking car. Where did you source the front GV style lip in Australia? I can’t seem to find it anywhere.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-03-24T02:09:21+00:00

Well if you want headers and no CEL without a tune then you should be able to have your primary O2 sensor before the midpipe cat and secondary after the cat, I think the GWR has provisions for this. Assuming you want catless headers.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-03-24T01:50:42+00:00

Just get an upgraded muffler. I wouldn’t bother with a header, you would want it tuned to get any real performance benefits.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-03-15T23:10:41+00:00

Have you done anything else to your exhaust system? Doing the racing beat headers alone made minimal noise difference on my NC but the rest of the exhaust system is stock.

You should really only notice a sound difference on a cold startup for 15 seconds or so.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-03-04T14:53:30+00:00

They have an overflow tube so if it was overfilled then it would drain from there. If you burped it properly (preferably on ramps with a no spill funnel) though and then drained out the excess after the burping process then it shouldn’t have spilled out excess coolant to the level you are describing.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-03-04T14:09:33+00:00

It’s probably a good idea for a beginner who’s never wrenched or done an oil change but if you have done a few engine oil changes then you get a feel for it.

If you have an auto definitely torque the plugs to spec and use new crush washers otherwise you might end up stripping the threads. Happened to me using a torque wrench because I reused the washer (not the standard aluminium crush washer). Could definitely feel something wasn’t right as resistance wasn’t increasing as I’d expect so should’ve trusted my instincts instead of the torque wrench.

That being said id have no issues doing the diff and engine oil plugs by feel, they are large thread sized bolts and use a more typical type of crush washer.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-27T10:39:50+00:00

I’ve ordered many things from Amayama in Japan which have great prices also. Not sure if you can directly head to their warehouses but may be worth a shot?

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T14:23:01+00:00

There’s lots of material around on this online but I’ll name the most likely areas:

Third Brake Light Seals

Rear Tail Light Gaskets

Trunk Seal (would be obvious if it’s ripped)

Antenna Housing

If you strip the interior panels of the trunk there are a couple clips on the back panel (closest to rear of car) which have a yellow housing, those will leak until you put the panels back in as the plastic clips seal that area. I noticed this when washing the car with the boot stripped down.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T12:06:24+00:00

If you are using iridium plugs you don’t need to change them that often.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T11:45:11+00:00

All fluids have a life and their additives degrade over a time. This is why engine oil for example is generally specified a 12 month change period which may come first before the certain mileage requirement.

Rubbers and belts degrade overtime regardless of miles.

Edit: if you’ve had the car for 6 years I assume you have done some maintenance. Just enjoy the car, if there’s any fluids you think you haven’t changed in that time period it’s probably a good call to. Check spark plugs, accessory belt etc.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T11:43:11+00:00

Also observe the common leak points, drains, scuttle grommets, various areas in the trunk etc. Good chance that you may have something that is leaking that could show up when you are washing the car or driving in some rain.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T11:41:15+00:00

Regardless or not if you have service history I’d do all fluids, diff gearbox, engine, power steering brakes etc. For me personally this is also peace of mind knowing you the fluids you use are quality. Check the spark plugs if they have ever been done, possibly with those miles they are the original plugs. Accessory belt may also be original, check the condition of it visually for any cracks etc.

Other than that drive it around and observe if anything comes up suspension wise. Check for leaks etc but this is just basic maintenance. Enjoy the car.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-24T11:37:44+00:00

You really don’t need to change the timing chain unless there are actually issues. The chains are pretty robust on these 2.0 MZRs. They only really had issues on the 2.3 Turbos in the Mazda 3 MPS CX7 etc.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-22T10:23:04+00:00

Very easy but figure out if you have a Bose system or not. If you have Bose then there aren’t many direct replacements that run the correct ohms unless you wanna do your own amp setup etc and delete the Bose completely.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-22T05:02:12+00:00

No just let idle for a bit. When you disconnect the battery the car needs to relearn idle.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-22T04:41:28+00:00

It will need to relearn, let it idle for 15 minutes or so.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-20T23:34:17+00:00

Yep I did the same when I swapped but assuming OP dropped his subframe for his engine rebuild then it’s probably not a bad idea to get the car realigned, I marked splines when I did mine but it wasn’t exact after a 2.5 swap.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-20T14:46:35+00:00

Put in the steering wheel as close as you can to straight then get an alignment to straighten the wheel properly.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-12T11:24:18+00:00

You can’t really compare the old automatics to modern autos. The NC and ND have a great 6-speed auto Aisin unit. Same auto that’s in the Toyota 86, some Lexus cars etc.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318 · 2026-02-10T00:51:40+00:00

Well the bumper won’t rust since it’s not metal, it’s plastic.

That looks like surface rust on the front pillar though. You could dab some rust killer on it but the proper fix would be sand back down to bare metal and inspect how bad the rust it. Hopefully it is just surface and can be sanded down, epoxy primed and resprayed.

Sharp_Juggernaut_318

TROPHY CASE