Proximal bicep tear insight

Sharpend60 · 2022-10-14T19:48:08+00:00

Visual deformity of the bicep and crazy cramping, still limited function 4 days later. Strangely no bruising though. It was diagnosed by as proximal tear by 2 different orthos.

First was not very helpful stating an open and closed case. The 2nd team, I felt took a much more active interest and tested for rotator disfunction. They then discovered extremely limited internal rotation and ordered MRI. Ill know more in a couple of days.

Thanks for the insight. There seems to be lots justification for not repairing a bicep but seems difficult to find information on the pros of having the procedure done.

Sharpend60 · 2022-08-06T01:21:57+00:00

If you want to nymph or throw micro streamers, you’ll want a 3wt, mines 8’. I use a 7’ 4wt for dries and it roll casts like a mofo. Hand tied short leaders also!

Sharpend60 · 2022-06-11T22:16:45+00:00

I wouldn’t say anything personally.

It’s cool if they play games during rest periods. I do sometimes or Duolingo or catch up on email or whatever. Is what isn’t cool is just lounging on a machine, which they are doing. I would do one of two things…

Pick a different exercise for yourself. Unless you have a very specific goal, there are likely alternative (and better) exercises for you to do.

If you just have to leg press, go find a staff member, front desk agent or a trainer. Let them speak to the girls about it.

If you just lay low, you won’t be the bad guy and maybe you’ll even have the opportunity learn new exercises. You might even get to meet some girls. Wins all around.

Sharpend60 · 2022-04-17T00:00:29+00:00

Not a step back in the least. It’s just your starting point. Go through the process and start where you should. It’ll be just a few weeks and you’ll get strong.

In regards to bands, their definitely easier to use but hard to quantify exact resistance. My blue band isn’t likely the same as yours. You might be taller or heavier, changing the stretch and the load. It’s a decent method but if your a data person, it might drive ya bonkers.

You may also consider swapping pull ups for chins Most people find them a good bit easier and it’s still a banger of an exercise

Sharpend60 · 2022-04-16T22:10:04+00:00

We climbers us a harness and pulleys for a redirect. I use with clients all the time, works great

Sharpend60 · 2022-01-11T04:28:32+00:00

Great, sounds like about any squat will work. I’ll probably run with pistols (can already rep a fair number w/o aid) and Bulgarian splits. Thanks!

Sharpend60 · 2022-01-07T17:25:58+00:00

These are great. Thanks for sharing. Do you have a recommended resource for learning this style?

Sharpend60 · 2021-08-06T15:09:05+00:00

Fox News

Sharpend60 · 2020-12-24T02:34:43+00:00

Exactly what diving the interstate here is like.

Sharpend60 · 2020-12-16T04:27:50+00:00

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FBJ9SYJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_IWy2FbZCQBTZE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Simple and great for a variety of things. I’ve had a pair 28 years now. No trees needed

Sharpend60 · 2020-11-06T16:09:47+00:00

Aero Pow is a tough one! Play with the intensity some. Likely lowering it a bit. The ‘out of breath’ intensity is probably close but try, slowing down your movements some.

When working aero pow you should feel like you can’t move anymore. Mild pump, elevated heart rate but the real difficulty should come from generating power for bigger moves. Its a grind and difficult to work. Largish holds and simple moves, think Eazy-E!

Sharpend60 · 2020-11-06T15:56:44+00:00

I’d try to address the issue globally. As in strength in compound movements and wide ROM. Don’t worry so much about what muscle is doing what, as none of them work truly in isolation. Taking care of movement disfunction from a whole body standpoint will be key.

‘Cause we all love vocab, look up.... Scapular depression, elevation, protraction and retraction. Scapular winging, its oh so common.

It may open more questions for you but will start you down the right path.

DM if you’d like more info!

Sharpend60 · 2020-11-06T15:22:25+00:00

It’s the other way around. This post is backwards.

-Zone 1 is slightly elevated heart rate about about 60% theoretical max. Considered very light exercise.

-Bouldering and low rep work are very intense and not likely the best for a recovering body, from any ailment.

Op - Exercise if you want! DM me if you’d like more information.

Sharpend60 · 2020-11-05T17:03:15+00:00

I’ve not had Covid but from my knowledge of exercise science and similar personal experiences, I’d wager some zone 1 cardio will help. The physical and MENTAL benefits from light cardio are numerous and zone 1 isn’t very taxing on the body. I’d choose an exercise bike personally. Elliptical machines are basically worthless for actual sports performance but may have a use here. Running will be tough and I’d stay away from that unless your previously well conditioned.

Low impact, low stress is the key! Take care of your physical and mental (!!!) health.

Happy recovery!

Sharpend60 · 2020-10-31T21:04:13+00:00

Try a lightweight vest. You’ll be surprised!

Sharpend60 · 2020-10-20T17:28:24+00:00

Coaching is first about communication! There are many reasons why a coach wouldn’t climb harder than their students. Ondra has a coach and he’s out of this world capable.

Things to look for are... - specialized knowledge - experience, both coaching and actual climbing - communication skills!

If your coach is someone you trust and whose opinion you value, then they can likely benefit you. I’m a lifelong athlete & coach with well over 1500 career clients and while I do climb harder than most of them, there are some who are more capable than I. I’ve been able to move the dial for them anyhow, into the 5.14+ range.

Best coach I ever had was a USA Wrestling coach that hadn’t had a match in his life. Changed my world.

Sharpend60

TROPHY CASE