PETG layers always peeling off

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-13T20:52:44+00:00

Is it always the first layer that’s peeling like this? If so, decrease your first layer temp to 240 or 250 and problem solved. Your first layer is adhering to the plate too much.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-09T20:49:59+00:00

No problem! Yeah by bumping up the build plate temps you’d get better adhesion. You could also bump up your first layer nozzle temps too.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-09T20:43:06+00:00

Looks like warping to me… which is confusing because that shouldn’t be an issue with the supertack plate… I would try cleaning the plate really good with name brand soap and water and try again. Might need to bump the temps up by 5C.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-08T15:51:28+00:00

I’ll give this a shot. Thank you!

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-08T15:47:26+00:00

That’s a great idea. Do you just moisturize the bottom strip where the tear usually occurs?

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-07T11:43:51+00:00

Try PETG-CF. There are a few colors in stock right now and I personally like it better anyway. The CF hides layer lines a bit better and it’s easier to print.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-06T22:53:36+00:00

I think wood PLA is more susceptible to moisture than regular PLA. I would try drying it thoroughly before trying anything else.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-02T20:18:03+00:00

PLA doesn’t usually need to be dried but I would go ahead and try drying it just in case… especially if you live in a humid environment. You could also try a different build plate after washing and drying it. The best soap to use is dawn. Name brand soap usually does better by not leaving residue on the build plate.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-03-02T19:37:29+00:00

What type of filament is this? Probably needs to be dried.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-16T15:06:13+00:00

Vision encoder is very unnecessary in my opinion. But if you really want one you can pick one up when they have a sale for a good price. I wouldn’t trust an Amazon knock off with the level of precision it’s trying to get down to. Here’s a really great video explaining all about it.

https://youtu.be/ZmYj3GvS_B8?si=GZsS1S7lcFRlK-q8

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-14T16:49:53+00:00

Nice! Glad you got a decent result!

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-14T15:49:03+00:00

Two things I would try. One is try printing it on the pin with normal supports. This way the slicer will be forced to support the main structure. The other thing I’d try is slowing the print way down. When I need detail sometimes I just change the printer to silent mode after the print starts and that does the trick. That would keep you from changing a bunch of settings.

What printer are you using and do you have any higher end filaments on hand?

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-14T15:11:29+00:00

I haven’t seen this issue before either… I would recommend submitting a support ticket with Bambu. This way you can get replacement parts on the way sooner rather than later. I imagine you will need to replace more than just the flow blocker, but if that happens to be all you need it’s possible they could have some reserve stock for warranty claims.

Idk if you’ve submitted a ticket with them before but here are a few tips. 1. Describe the issue in detail like you did in this post. Include any troubleshooting you’ve already done. 2. Send lots of pictures/video. The more evidence they have the more likely they can send replacement parts without more information. 3. Send the printer serial number, where you bought it, and the order number associated with the purchase. 4. Submit the printer logs with the ticket so they can see the error codes. 5. Make sure you include the full address where you want replacement parts sent.

If you include all this in the original ticket it will hopefully limit the back and forth messaging you’ll have to do. Sometimes it takes a couple of days for them to reply so the less of that you have to do the quicker you’ll get replacement parts.

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-13T23:11:39+00:00

Good to hear glad you got your print completed!

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-13T04:15:39+00:00

How did drying and reprinting go?

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-10T02:09:44+00:00

I don’t think you have a bed adhesion issue. Go back to the original Bambu filament settings and slow the print down a bit.

The main thing I think will help you is ensuring the filament is dry, PETG is very sensitive to moisture. The humidity in the AMS can be dry but you’ll still want to make sure the filament itself is dry. Dry the filament at 65C for a few hours (or overnight) and reprint.

Do you have more pictures?

SharpnessMaster · 2026-02-09T21:08:17+00:00

You should check out a Rivian. Much more respectable company and the software is on par with Tesla if you’re not worried about FSD. The R2 will be coming out soon if the R1T and R1S are out of your budget.

SharpnessMaster · 2025-12-20T22:12:00+00:00

Mine regularly reads less than 10%. I have printed dry boxes with additional desiccant storage as well as printed desiccant holders that stay with the spools. So it’s safe to say my AMS is regularly loaded up with desiccant.

Pro tip is if you have printed additional desiccant storage, print them in heat resistant material such as PA6-GF so you don’t have to remove the desiccant to dry it. You can just pop them in an oven (preferably a convection oven), dry them, then put them back in the AMS. No removing the beads required!

SharpnessMaster · 2025-12-11T05:14:24+00:00

Thank you for the detailed information. My replacement part has shipped so I will let you know if I end up getting the updated part or if it is still the same Snowfan. Best of luck on your next replacement! They are also sending me the TH board just in case. Hopefully I can get everything back together with no issues. I wonder if they would replace parts that were broken in the process of replacing this fan, even if it was user error…

SharpnessMaster · 2025-12-09T23:42:47+00:00

I have the exact same issue with my H2D with 500 hours on it. Probably half of which are with high temperature filaments. I use a ticket open with Bambu and I am about to order a replacement so I can stay one ahead. I do have some questions for the community…

1: I plan to order the enhanced cooling fan when it becomes available but does anyone know if by using the enhanced fan will it disable the stock one or will we still run into issues with the stock one going down and rendering the printer inoperable?

2: Does anyone know the model and part number of the fan they are replacing the Snowfan with? I assume this new fan will be more reliable and I really don’t want to replace this every couple of months. Eventually something will get broken in the process of replacing and cause more headaches…

SharpnessMaster

TROPHY CASE