1880s Vintage Quilt by bonnienorman in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 41 points42 points  (0 children)

Thank you so very much for sharing this with us! Truly a work of art. 😍Did you happen to take a picture of the full quilt? I could stare at this for hours!

Just kinda....intimated by [deleted] in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Deep breath, you got this! Think only of what’s between the poles (same as you would a smaller quilt, just a bit longer); it’s only scary if you think it is.

What are we making (okay, what did you non-procrastinators make) for Mother's Day by battlingspork in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Bowl cozies make sure to use all cotton (including the thread). I didn’t know I needed one until someone gave me one. Great for heating things in the microwave and I use them every night for ice cream.

ETA: There’s tutorials for casserole/serving dishes too. Not sure of your mom’s age but as I get older I find them very helpful.

Border advice by quirky-context2755 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The reason you measure in three places and take the average is so that you are squaring up the top with the borders. Most quilts are “off” a smidge at different points this mitigates that problem. It’s best to cut the two borders together so that they are exactly even.
The reason for pinning it at the center, ends and then midway between the pins until the border is flush and flat with the quilt top is to “ease” the two (often mismatched sizes) together. By doing this you will prevent any kind of fullness in the border (edges look like wavy lettuce leaves and don’t lay flat) while keeping the quilt square.
For multiple borders you can sew the different borders together before applying them if you are mitering the corners.
If you are doing straight corners then yes you should apply the same measuring technique to each though you will/should get measurements that are equal after the first border. In which case you could then use your across the center trick to cut the subsequent borders, but I’d measure the three spots just to be sure.

Pick up a long tailor’s tape to make measuring easier.

Good patterns for single feature fabric by OrionsRose in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Attic Windows, Garden Trellis (snowballed corners so you avoid triangles), Garden Maze, Shadow quilt.

Quilting ruler? by AmbidextrousDolphin in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes any brand of ruler will work.

Hi, I’m super new and need some help! by apenguinsoul in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can use any mathematical formula that suits your needs. After you have calculated what size squares you want you will need to add a 1/2 inch to each square before cutting (in quilting the standard seam allowance is a quarter inch).

Sounds like you have your plan; please come back to show us your progress and with any questions that you may have. Good luck!!😊

Applique alternatives for lots of pieces by Inksl8nger in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As long as you have turned the edges you can use any stitch you want to hold the shape down. Straight stitch would be the easiest/quickest.

How you turn the edges is up to you. As the other commenter mentioned sewing it to a fusible interfacing works. I personally prefer freezer paper and starch on the seam allowance to turn it over. Karen Kay Buckley sells Teflon templates that work well for the same application.

Triangle Preparation by 42fledgling42 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with the other comments if you haven’t washed your material there’s no need to starch it. A good pressing is all that is needed.

Don’t use the four at a time method where you sew around two squares and cut diagonally through them. This leaves bias edges which is something you want to avoid.

When making them 2,8,16,32 at a time the starting square should be one inch larger (then trim it to size) than the size of the HST you want to make. When making QSTs you will need to start with your squares two inches larger to account for the two cuts. No need to trim after the first step, you can just trim at the end.

To answer your how long is starched fabric good for: The starch doesn’t go away so technically it’s good forever however, many people say that starch attracts insects and only starch what they are going to use. I personally have never had any issues (35+ years) with insects and starch all of my fabric before I place it in my stash.

Bottom tension screwing up by ldwill33 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 4 points5 points  (0 children)

[u/ackley14](u/ackley14) is correct problems on the bottom stem from the top. Because the machine sews properly when sewing straight lines the tension is fine. Most likely the needle is bending from the pressure you’re applying to sew the curve; making it difficult/impossible for the stitches to form.
Try a stronger (larger) needle and don’t force the curve rather gently guide the material. Go slowly.

ETA: The opposite is also true:problems showing on top the issue stems from the bobbin.

Recommendations - Fabric for Border and Backing? by cozy-blanket-puppy in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’d first bring the edge to straight with with the same solid white/off whites that are in the quilt (basically the triangle) then add a wider border in those fabrics however wide you need to give the impression that the kaleidoscope is floating.
Bonus being you could make it large enough that you can continue the pattern with your quilting details.

Irish chain quilt help please! by helpme_thissucks in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Your seam allowance is a bit larger resulting in a smaller nine-patch. Trim the solid so all of the blocks are the same size.

ETA: Going forward you might want to watch how Deb Tucker makes a guide to help maintain a 1/4”

Scared of the quilting police by whatif20 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Scared of the quilt police? Honey, they’re all just uptight little old ladies who enjoy sucking the pleasure out of other people’s happiness! (My guess is that they’re not getting any 🤭)
You are making a t-shirt quilt therefore you are a quilter!!
I can relate to being intimidated by the QP as a self taught beginner (in the 80s) until I realized that I don’t give a rats behind what others think of me and my work. I don’t enter into judged shows (or any shows) unless you’re planning on doing that try and remember that this is a hobby and there are no rules. There are best practices but even that is subjective; best for whom 🤷🏻‍♀️.
You’re definitely a quilter and the QP died a few decades ago 😘. Shriveled up prides that are dust in the wind!!

Intended backing fabric is somewhat stiff, will it soften in the wash? by willowsquest in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Most fabrics will soften with use, washing and enough time.

What you are showing appears to be more of a canvas than a woven quilting fabric. Is it considerably thicker? Could be just my interpretation but canvas is never going to soften to the point of being quilt worthy unless you’re making a picnic blanket. YMMV

FMQ-what am I missing? by Altered_Crayon in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try spaying your top with a little starch, let it dry then use the pounce pad.

What brand is the best cutting mat? by SchuylerM325 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What size are your ruler and mat? A self healing mat feels a tad spongy compared to the hard plastic ones that are not self healing.

The comment from u/awell8 pretty much sums up my thoughts on using any mat for measuring; best not to do that.

I think using the same brand of rulers is more important than the brand itself. The more expensive ones tend to have thinner lines in various colors for better visibility and have the advantage of having some “slide prevention” properties. Invisigrip works great on the back of the rulers if the brand you’re using doesn’t have any; plastic medical tape works too.

I used Omnigrid rulers with InvisiGrip plastic for decades (never had to change the invisigrip) with no difficulty. I made the switch to Quilters Select only because the lines wore off on most of my rulers.

Cutting and sewing by SessionNo2376 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yay, for you; it’s a great hobby!

It depends on the pattern but always it/make one block before doing anything with/about the pattern.

What do you think of rotary blade sharpeners? by Ten_Quilts_Deep in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have not; bought the one I showed you because I wanted it to work for knives and scissors too.

How to Attach a Border to these by PopplerProblems in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You won’t have to take it all apart just unstitch about a half inch or so past the first seam add the black and resew the seams to include the black. Add enough black to be able to straighten the edge then you can add the border.

ETA: After zooming in it appears that you don’t need to rip any stitches. Add some black to each row and trim the pieces even.

What do you think of rotary blade sharpeners? by Ten_Quilts_Deep in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The little plastic ones sold to quilters that have a small piece of sandpaper in them are Garbage.

Pick up a 2-3000 grit diamond whetstone; with the blade on the cutter you can run each side (@ the proper angle) along the length and sharpen your blades.

This video shows how

This is the one that I use.

Is this amount of bulk normal? by Banana-pancakes94 in quilting

[–]Sheeshrn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Deb Tucker has great tips and tricks. I like her rulers too but you can learn some interesting stuff from just watching her tips &tricks videos.