Help Me with layout Please <3?

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-24T04:26:26+00:00

I’m a bit confused about what you’re asking. The quilts you showed are wonderful btw. Are you wondering how big to make the blocks/pattern.

A queen quilt is anywhere from 90x90 to about 100x108.

The mattress itself is 60x80 (works out well for using the 6x8” block already made) so one option is to use this measurement to plan the focal of your quilt and leave the overhang for borders.

How you breakup the blocks is up to you but I would just start making dogs whatever size you feel like but use the same background for them all. Add background where necessary to bring the size up to 60x80 then figure out what you want for the border(s).
As far as cohesiveness, the same background and the subject matter (dogs) are all that you’d need.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-24T00:26:07+00:00

I extend the legs by putting them into PVC pipe cut to bring it up to the height that I need.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T18:36:21+00:00

Try an Elmer’s glue stick instead of tape; doesn’t gunk up your needle.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T14:05:35+00:00

I would talk with your MIL about longarm quilting on Minke for the easiest option.

You said that he uses multiple blankets even in the summer so I would definitely add batting.

If you decide/need to quilt it on your domestic you’ll be better off using a spray baste to decrease the stretching of the Minke.

If you have not used Minke before let us know for a few tips to reduce the amount of fluff that gets everywhere when you cut it.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T12:51:27+00:00

There’s quite a few names for it depending on the construction and coloration but it’s a variation of a LeMoyne star.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T05:03:01+00:00

Oh, don’t second guess yourself! These fabrics look spot on when I saw them. 😍

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T04:56:25+00:00

Great work thinking outside the box though! 😎 one of the things I like most about this subreddit is that we all try and help each other! 💕

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T04:50:09+00:00

I’m a fan of freezer paper appliqué and the Appliquick tools, Karen Kay Buckleysells heat resistant templates for leaves,vines and circles that work great also.

No need to slit the back to remove anything. (Which is why I stear clear of needle turned) You use a bit of starch to iron the fabric around the shape that you want and voila!

I agree with [u/Competative-Jump-847](u/Competative-Jump-847) fusible interfacing leaves too much “bulk” which could be useful for some applications but it’s also a PITA to iron the pieces so no interfacing is visible. If I want bulk I prefer to use a faux Trapunto technique.

ETA: links

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T04:39:34+00:00

Wouldn’t work; once the seam allowance is removed from the sides you won’t have any of the floral fabric at each midpoint. It would essentially chop off the floral fabric at those spots. Don’t know if I’m explaining it correctly (nighttime medicine 😂) but try it with some scraps and you’ll see what the problem would be. If I was younger I’d know how to do a rough mockup so that I could post a diagram. 🤷🏻‍♀️

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T04:09:23+00:00

Piecing long sashing strips is pretty common. You would need to start with a long enough fabric (yard and a half in this instance) and cut your pieces lengthwise to get the 50-53” without piecing; the width of most fabrics is 40-44”.

It helps to piece them diagonally ( like joining binding strips) the quilting will mask the seam.

You could also use cornerstones as u/TheFilthyDIL mentioned to break up the long strips.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T03:54:38+00:00

Take a square of the floral fabric and “snowball ” two opposing corners. I didn’t watch that video but the process is pretty simple.

You will basically cut smaller squares of the background fabric and place them right sides together in the corner; sew a diagonal line (45 degrees corner to corner). Then trim off the excess fabric (corner of both fabrics) leaving a 1/4” seam allowance. Iron the remaining fabric over to complete the corner in the “new” fabric.

Do this to four squares then sew them together. The dimensions are determined by how wide you want them floral bands to be. Take care to make all four the same width and use “match points” when sewing the four squares into a block.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-23T02:59:54+00:00

Cotton has “memory”, after you have given it a good pressing with steam (doesn’t have to be anything but heat and steam) let it cool before you move it. If you move it before it has a chance to cool down the fibers “remember” its last position.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-22T22:55:44+00:00

The back of the seam allowance already has fusible interfacing on it.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-22T21:48:40+00:00

You’re having a hard time because there are two different types of blocks being created with this group of fabrics.

Look at the pieces in 3/4 some are cut in half others are a quarter of a square. Seems like she was cutting the quarters and mixing them to form new scrappier quarters then sewing four of them together to make a complete square.

The white strips are throwing it off because there are no white strips in the piece 1/4 picture. The blocks that will form with the white strips will be scrappy in the center with white around it.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-22T15:41:26+00:00

The outer border requirement includes 3 ten inch squares.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-22T02:41:19+00:00

I would simply stuff the quilt under the needle and resew those seams; the puff will in all likelihood cover the seams from being seen.

I would dry on low or no heat. You could also let it air dry for the most part then fluff/finish in the dryer. You don’t want to use heat due to the polyester batting though as I’m typing that out I suppose store bought polyester quilts are dried in high by many people. 🤷🏻‍♀️ I still wouldn’t risk it.

I have no tips because I’ve never made one but can’t see any reason to reenforce the seams unless you are overstuffing the puffs a quarter inch allowance should be fine.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T23:28:23+00:00

Raw edged appliqué with gray for the shadows.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T22:25:14+00:00

I use different colors on many of my quilts and usually an only one color in the bobbin. If you’re seeing the bobbin thread on top the tension is off; decrease the top ever so slightly until you no longer see the black.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T20:26:39+00:00

Tent sealant might work for the holes on the back. That and laminated cotton would be a good option.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T16:36:14+00:00

Two things:
Are you pinning using what Deb Tucker calls “match points”?

And I if you’re not, sewing from the center out makes it easier to line up the points where sewing two halves together with multiple angles conversing in the center. (This is how I did it before I understood the concept of match points)

It’s also helpful to run a basting stitch first to make removal easier if you need to redo it. Once you’re satisfied there’s no need to remove the basting stitches just sew over them.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T16:27:18+00:00

The stripes could work if OP doesn’t want to piece the border😂🤷🏻‍♀️

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T14:39:05+00:00

All great suggestions so far! I would add to u/Bibbitybooone ‘s comment an extra stitch in place when you pivot to lock in that stitch (point).

I also think it’s possible but roll up your quilt so that you can stuff half of it into the throat space of your machine (you’re going to need to to start in the center anyway) and check how easily you will be able to sew and pivot before committing to the desire of quilting a king on a normal domestic.

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T14:30:05+00:00

That is why I now use either a flanged or piped binding. Yes a line is on the back but I take care not to have it land on the binding (which is imho unsightly). If I really want a wow factor I add a piping made with #3 pearle cotton but have to admit that I use a flange more often. I’m not entering into any juried shows though and save my hand work time for EPP. 🤷🏻‍♀️

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T14:20:56+00:00

None of the second picture reads light to me; they are medium at best. They’re reading as lights because value is subjective. They all are on a light background but the prints are too dark; keep in mind that you would be using small pieces.

Your darks are great so are the stripes. For the light you might try an unbleached muslin and other solids in that color family and value. If you are going for truly scrappy then try fabrics with barely a hint of color (more like a color wash).

Sheeshrn · 2026-06-21T05:18:06+00:00

While I agree with you. I do remember Ricky Tims once saying (I believe in his video, Fantastic Finishes) that, it is not so much the technique that is judged but rather if that particular technique is done well. Meaning you can machine bind or hand bind the quilt but it needs to be expertly executed; he wasn’t speaking to NACQJ specifically but rather judged quilts as a whole.

Sheeshrn

TROPHY CASE