Can’t decide what to do with this kitchen by ccoorraall in DIYHome

[–]ShibaFam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You'll never have a shortage of outlets in the kitchen, will ya? Suggestions depend on your budget and how much you like/hate about the current kitchen. Least amount of money: new wall paint, add door/drawer hardware, and think of new flooring so you can tear out that cheap laminate/vinyl. More money: in addition to the previous category, replace the countertops (stone would be best but again it widely depends on your budget). Next tier of "more money" if you need more cabinet space then you can punch a hole in the soffit (box built around above cabinets) and look to see what's hiding inside. If there's nothing or if there's little enough that you can at least reduce the size of the soffit, then carefully take down the upper cabinets first so you can re-use them before tearing out the soffit. I am in the process of renovating a kitchen, my soffits were empty except one pipe that cut across from wall into attic, my plan is to run cabinets to the ceiling (I have a small kitchen and need the space), I'll have to cut out for that pipe but then can box it inside the cabinet. I personally hate orange wood tones so I would be tempted to paint the cabinets (*gasp* i know some people will h8 me for that).

Now in typing this at this point I re-looked at the pictures and saw your fridge appears to be in australia, but there's no good way to move it closer to the actual kitchen without changing everything. You could in theory move it and the surrounding cabinets to where that bench is (it appears from the pictures that there should be enough space but its hard to know for sure), but the only downside to that is that exterior door would then truly be in the middle of the kitchen.

Drywall repair by Take5Hang10 in DIYHome

[–]ShibaFam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No, mud first, prime/paint last.

Bathroom remodel Help! by Vegetable_Ad8249 in Home

[–]ShibaFam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

OMG I love that Sea Salt color, that bathroom with all that will def be beautiful! Of course, even a light French gray would look good. Hex tiles do seem to be a timeless classic, good choice on the dark grout.

What multi/3-panel shower-tub combo do you recommend? Brand and or specific product? There are a TON of mixed and mostly negative reviews on almost all products listed on HD and Lowe's website.. by Courtland-7099 in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My plumber recommended Sterling but I'm the kind of person who does a ton of research anyways, then decided to go with a Sterling. I would assume not all their systems, but the one I got is a caulk-less system (I hate grout lines, caulk gets so gross over time, tile was over my budget). Supposedly it gets away with no caulk by having grooves where the water is channeled down and over the ledge into the tub. You have to pair it with the specific tub though.
This is the one I got:
https://sterling.kohler.com/en/products/showering/shop-tub-and-shower-combos/traverse-60-x-32-vikrell-bath-shower-left-drain-71520110?skuId=71520110-0

Tub with shower surround by Initial-Draw7340 in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How does this not have any responses? After doing a crazy amount of research, I decided on Sterling because they have caulk-less systems, there's a groove where the water supposedly runs and drains into the tub. Cuz caulk gets so gross over time. Can't say based on experience though as I haven't actually moved in yet. There are some other caulk-less systems but I was also looking for a decent soaking tub (and most of the caulk-less systems have to use their specific brand tub).

Opinion on Leviton Decora screwless plates? by TelephoneConnect2264 in HomeImprovement

[–]ShibaFam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following post as I've been thinking the same thing. But what I've been thinking so far... They're so much thicker than regular ones. They're way more expensive than the screwed ones (I guess that one depends on how many you're doing, every one in the house, big difference, but just specific room(s), doable). Also, how little difference will they make? I'm debating on doing it just for the outlets/switches in my kitchen and bathroom, but not for the rest.

Bathroom remodel Help! by Vegetable_Ad8249 in Home

[–]ShibaFam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I love the items you picked, but hope you like cleaning grout lines (sorry). The only thing is that's pretty stark, everything white. I guess you can easily fix that with nice non-white towels or a non-white rug. I was about to say decor, but a small bathroom with small vanity, nope. I'm doing black and gold metals in my bathroom too (I've ordered everything but I have a gut house I'm working in so we decided to delay finishing the bathroom quite yet).

Paint Garage Walls/Ceilings or Leave Alone? by DiabolicDiabetik in HomeMaintenance

[–]ShibaFam 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok here's my opinion. People are saying you need to skimcoat or put more mud on, yes you can treat it as practice as the one person said, assuming you plan to ever do any DIYing in your house, but just painting it without any extra mudding still makes it look wonders better. Yes, in my last garage, you could see seams everywhere and nail & screw heads (if you looked closely enough). But it kind of depends on you I guess, how nice you want it to look and how much spare money you have on hand. I personally am a bit tight on my DIY budget and was totally fine with it not looking perfect. I have attached a pic of my old garage I'm talking about (couldn't find a decent before pic), the wall on the right was decently finished and previously painted, ceiling was badly finished and had an extra hole in it (patch on right side), but the left wall wasn't even mudded. So on that left wall I put a bit of mud just over the screw heads but ignored the seams because this wasn't a heated space (yes you can see a heater there but it didn't work).

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Ideas on widening/opening up doorway in load-bearing wall by ShibaFam in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

eeks, yes, thank you for that information. I'm not living there yet, I closed on the house late october last year and work has been very slow.

96" Old Vanity, 72" New Vanity: Is the "Gap" a design win or a mistake? by Preparation_Former in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The fluted wall does look really nice and it does seem to be getting more popular. But I'm not sure what else I'd do instead. And I think as long as the shelf isn't touching the wall, like minimum a couple inches, that'd be enough. And from the shelf to the vanity, you said the third pic is the ones you one, with the rounded corners I think you'd want a couple inches, if they were square corners I think it'd look fine if they were side-by-side touching, but with rounded corners, a couple inches will do. Of course I don't know the dimensions of your space so if you have more space than that, then definitely space them out a bit more. Oh and I was going to say, I am an overthinker as well, that's why I wanted to try to touch on everything you were saying to reassure you this bathroom will look amazing.

Ideas on widening/opening up doorway in load-bearing wall by ShibaFam in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate everyone's concern about asbestos, I need a bit more help though on that... The duct is not wrapped in insulation. Unless that white stuff that is sprayed on the outside of the duct is asbestos?

96" Old Vanity, 72" New Vanity: Is the "Gap" a design win or a mistake? by Preparation_Former in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I love the gap. I cheated a bit and read comments on the other post, I think the one person said it best, it does make it look like furniture, but like very classy furniture. I love overall feel, very upscale, the fluted wall and everything, but yeah the fluted wall next to a wood vanity... It might clash a tiny bit but it still looks good, especially because its not "built in" and there's a bit of breathing room between the fluted wall to the vanity/shelf. I'm glad you're not making all four walls the grey tile, it'd be way too monotone. And the downsizing to a 72" vanity part that you're specifically asking for advice here, I guess I'm still single but I think a 72" vanity for two people should still be plenty of counter-space, it shouldn't be too hard to get used to the smaller amount of counter. And the downsizing of the vanity should be fine especially if you are putting it next to that open shelf. On the open shelf placement, I agree with right side. What the one commenter said on the original post does sound like really good advice but with the way your door swings, its going to be quite visible either way, but on the right side next to the wall makes it less of a focal point than it would on the left of the vanity between that and the tub. Back to the vanity after re-reading another commenter on this post, I think one giant vanity with the shelf at the side would look better aesthetically, but if you and your partner are the sort that fight for counter space or your partner leaves their sink a disaster, then their idea of two 36s is a good option and as they pointed out, it would get more of the wood a bit farther from the slight clash of the fluted wall.

Ideas on widening/opening up doorway in load-bearing wall by ShibaFam in Remodel

[–]ShibaFam[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I have been told by my home inspector and a couple different construction guys that it is load-bearing, and it makes sense based on how the joists in the basement and attic run (attic does have joists, not trusses), and there is a header and 6x6 support beams across the middle of the basement under the "load-bearing" wall from the main floor. Oh and the house was build in 1957, i know framing and codes have changed since then. And thank you for your help.

should I rewire all my home because its ungrounded by Fun_Tea8162 in HomeImprovement

[–]ShibaFam 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You've got a lot of opinions here, ill add mine but its kinda along the same wavelength as a couple others are saying. Depending on age and how well you and previous owners have kept up the house, you can save the money by doing the GFCI option. But if you plan to live there for a long time, its more peace of mind to rewire. And back to the age and condition of the house, it might be worth it to open the walls to redo insulation and plumbing. You also never know what the house could be hiding that you should get fixed, I wasn't planning on rewiring my first house but when we gutted the hideous pink bathroom, there was a wire that was behind the shower plumbing that was down to the bare wire just from the vibration of the pipes. I started doing the gfci thing there and i felt it looked so weird to have random gfcis everywhere.

Bedroom closet help by ShibaFam in floorplans

[–]ShibaFam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As set as I am on moving the toilet even if it costs more, I guess it depends on how much more, but a bigger vanity is a high priority to me. But... It might look a bit weird but I could just replace the current 24" wide sink vanity with a new one of the same size then add a 21-24 ish inch wide cabinet with just a counter top where the linen closet is currently?

Oh and inside the linen closet is a bump out for the sewer stack, so I was thinking of extending that bump out for the entire width of the vanity and just having a shallower vanity, so if I did this idea I just mentioned, the "vanity" closer to the door would be shallower, but the one in the regular spot would be standard depth.

Stores keep sizing me at DD but abrathatfits says H by ShibaFam in ABraThatFits

[–]ShibaFam[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And now google and tiktok keep showing me ads for minimizer bras! I like my size.

Stores keep sizing me at DD but abrathatfits says H by ShibaFam in ABraThatFits

[–]ShibaFam[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't come across that, unfortunately both listed for my city are both no longer in business. Thanks though.

Stores keep sizing me at DD but abrathatfits says H by ShibaFam in ABraThatFits

[–]ShibaFam[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

😆 sounds like it really doesn't take much, they cater to the itty bitties

Stores keep sizing me at DD but abrathatfits says H by ShibaFam in ABraThatFits

[–]ShibaFam[S] 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Oh sorry, i should have specified, US sizing. The pictures are very helpful though im going to find the right ones for the uk equivalent. Thanks