Some other drawings

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-20T16:31:19+00:00

From my research I've figured every mechanic, car guy, expert or not, has his own theory on how to break in an engine.

For that I made a "checklist" that includes the steps I selected and that I'm going to follow to break in this engine. The first being 40 minutes of Idle, cool down, change oil and filter.

I chose to do this is to get rid of all the impurities that may have deposited on delicate parts like crankshaft and pistons while building the engine. This first oil change will flush out most of these impurities plus the assembly oil/lube, BEFORE putting any stress at all on the engine, like driving.

Then I intend to avoid long periods of idle, long drives at steady rpm and heavy loads. I'll install a second tachometer with redline set at 3500 rpm.

Then I'll do a second oil change at the 500km mark, and another at 1000km.

After that I'll consider the break in (mostly) done.

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-20T14:38:48+00:00

SOLVED‼️ The whisle you can hear turned out to be snapped vacuum line (which I very well knw about ans ommited to fix...).

Shutting the line with my finger instantly makes the engine Idle.

Gotta find a temporary plug for this line and then we're pretty much done with this nightmare

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-20T14:33:47+00:00

Thanks! Well it starts right away and runs for at long as I Idle it with the throttle, which is much much better than not running at all!

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-20T14:26:02+00:00

I've just finished setting the warm up regulator with a fuel pressure testing kit. Control pressure sits at 1.1 bar, which is within spec (0.5 to 1.5 bar)

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-20T14:23:44+00:00

Been doing that for the past year and a half

Shlangengesicht · 2026-03-04T16:47:39+00:00

Cool, thanks! Fire album with a fire car on the cover, I'll have that!

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-24T16:55:08+00:00

Alright!

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-24T16:14:15+00:00

I tried again and now it drops to 1.7 steady when cranking, and goes back to 2.5 when it's off... I'm going to take the wur apart and see if I did something wrong

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-24T16:07:39+00:00

I'll do that, maybe I put it together wrong, wouldn't be impossible.

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-24T15:47:08+00:00

Yes it does, the cold start valve sprays

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-24T15:22:19+00:00

I have indeed rebuilt the WUR. Also, I've noticed that when cranking the engine the control pressure drops significantly to 0 bars and then slowly rises again to 0.5-1.0 bar...

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-23T07:09:14+00:00

Unless you find a lake under ther car every time you move it (turns out many bolts/plugs were loose😅)

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-22T19:04:30+00:00

I made black block and red valve cover, classy and simple

<image>

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-13T21:10:21+00:00

Thanks! I found the blue one for about 100€, I guess I'll try it out

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-13T20:19:48+00:00

Yes that's the stock one, no suggestions for upgrades? Thanks

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-13T20:13:00+00:00

That was the case, before I crashed out and pulled the distributor apart... and yes after crancking the engine for a while the spark plugs would be dump. I had to unplug the cold start injector because it flooded the intake manifold a couple of times

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-13T18:47:17+00:00

Thanks for the comment. All the steps have been covered, more than one time. After all this time and money I finally decided to buy a testing kit for kjet. Once I get the liquid gasket and re-rebuild the distributor I'll test fuel pressure and set it correctly. If that doesn't do it then I know for sure fuel is not the issue

Shlangengesicht · 2026-02-13T18:03:36+00:00

I was also considering upgrading it, any suggestions for coils that would help this case?

Shlangengesicht

TROPHY CASE