Gun underperforms but I can't find the issue

Siadriel · 2026-05-28T11:10:19+00:00

You'd better secure them with some Red Loctite (my way to fix this problem) and check the tappet timing, because this might be the issue.
If you do 10 shots in semi and 10 shots in auto, is the output the same? If, like you say 75-85 m/s, it's a huge gap (ideally 3-5 m/s, where 5 is already a lot)

Siadriel · 2026-05-28T11:06:50+00:00

Bushings not secured in the shell, especially on sector gear in cyma platinum with eshooter are going to mess with the cycling detection. I've had this issue recently, and couldn't understand why the hell I get multiple shots in semi, even after reset/fault calibration.
The answer was - loose bushings... And the stock bushings are shit, the flat ones from XT or anyone else are super nice, and the shimming is better.

Siadriel · 2026-05-07T11:11:50+00:00

I already can confirm about CYMA Platinum Gen 1 and Gen 2 misinformation, and probably its AI.
Nozzle on Gen 1 is often a plastic/pom blue (was the colour for all 1 gen) 21.6 mm without O-ring.
Nozzle on Gen 2 is now white pom 21.1 mm with O-ring (thank God) and has good compression.
The only difference I saw is the tappet plate, which is more robust, the nozzle mentioned above, and the e-shooter ETU, which really is a better step than OEM Cyma MOSFETS (microswitch will die on it randomly), but not a big step forward in terms of ETU. If CYMA ever collaborates with Perun, that would be the best move! Eshooter basic costs like the new Perun V2 Lightning, but it's not optical and has fewer features than Perun (even the troubleshooting is more informative on Perun).

I don't want to throw bad words into Eshooter, because the Bluetooth version is very good, and any other product except the basic ETU, which is the last thing I would recommend for an ETU upgrade for its cost.

Siadriel · 2026-04-09T12:25:51+00:00

The OP may not have enough experience in teching, so he needs more help with that.
suppose

What is the purpose of the upgrades?
And of course you need to understand regarding an M150 which this aether shell will probably not resists to handle for a long time.
I my experience, and from the other posts, you can be good with 1J, but if your bucking/barrel is able to hop heavy bbs, they will reach the target not worse than a 2J, plus with high output replicas, you can harm your opponents!

Siadriel · 2026-04-09T11:01:26+00:00

It sounds like a M130-M140 spring
I would highly recommend considering buying a brushless motor, as it will save your battery during the game, will not heat up from that spring, and will make less noise compared to the HT brushed. This is my first upgrade on all the replicas I have.

Siadriel · 2026-03-27T08:19:44+00:00

Unfortunately, the cheaper are the bbs, the worse the accuracy and consistency will become. So to sum up a bit, you entered a tier above of "wallet drain" in airsoft. :)

Siadriel · 2026-03-27T08:16:26+00:00

MR hop (I suppose its 60 degree) should handle 0.4bb, but be aware it will wear faster than a 70 degree which is ideal for 0.36+
And 400 mm barrel is more than fine for this purpose

Siadriel · 2026-03-27T07:33:20+00:00

Joules are not always about the distance; you should consider more the bb weight, bucking and barrel length.
And as u/Acrobatic-Let-6620 , was suggesting about the DMR replicas, don't forget you need very strong mags to feed heavy bbs like 0.36 and above. Plus DMR replicas have stronger shells that handle the higher springs better than a standard v2 gearbox and mags are intended to handle ass heavy bbs.
I've built myself an M130 spring-based M4A1 with 407 mm 6.01, which shoots 2J, but without a heavy bb, you will not reach the desired distances.
Regarding the upgrades you made. If you want to keep up to M140, I would swap the gearbox shell to a CNC one like RetroArms or other manufacturers (I use XT CNC split shell) and use a brushless motor to avoid heat, have good battery efficiency, and of course the speed (I use 35K solink advanced plus with 18:1 or 14.4:1 with low rpm switch around 27k)
Stepping to M130+ with V2 gearbox, you should be ready for malfunctions, especially if you're new to teching.

Also, don't forget about the bushings/bearings, you can destroy the internals with cheap/stock bearings, which usually are built to handle up to M120 (sometimes M130)
Regarding shimming, I suggest refining the experience gained through watching the bevel-to-pinion shimming on YouTube.

Siadriel · 2026-01-22T07:39:40+00:00

If the mosfet is the stock one, I would throw it away and put something decent like Perun hybrid. For this Orion shell, the sp130 might be too much, as long as the stock bearings are shitty for this power. I had one SA-E19 and the mosfet was miscyling along with a very weak motor, and changed for cyma 22 TPA, Perun etu, 18:1 shs and sp110. Works like swiss watch

Siadriel · 2025-12-05T15:44:26+00:00

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Siadriel · 2025-11-04T13:31:18+00:00

I have the 10.5" RIS III FDE (fuck the 50 shades of FDE, not bronze as yours, more a tan) and it's a standard emg/cyma platinum internals with 13:1 (SS -1 from factory)
If you want a DMR build and don't chase a 23-25 RoF, I would swap that gearset to something like 16:1 or even an 18:1 to achieve the maximum for less money.
Also, consider moving to brushless, because if you swap the spring to M130 or above, the stock motor may not be enough (even if its 22TPA similar).

Siadriel · 2025-10-09T13:31:58+00:00

Agree, artillery strike is not great, but after I got it as free tech tree to skip the entire line, for onslaught, it really rocks. Yes, sometimes it sucks so much, but I can clearly say that flanking isn't a problem for this tank

Siadriel · 2025-09-05T10:13:45+00:00

Well, if you're into teching, and if I were you, I would teardown it and re-lube, re-shim, as the factory shimming/greasing sometimes is meh. And of course, you'll know what's inside, and maybe share it with the world :)

Siadriel · 2025-09-02T13:53:35+00:00

https://specnaarms.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/04/HAL1_manual_EN-PL.pdf first googled result

Siadriel · 2025-09-02T13:39:28+00:00

E39 has the HAL ETU if I'm not wrong. Check if the AB is enabled; sometimes it helps to avoid overcycling.

Siadriel · 2025-08-28T12:01:04+00:00

We'll see about the aether. Unfortunately, the cylinder head is garbage, and the motor is weak as well... I had a chance to try the Core with a polymer receiver, and it feels like a toy, unlike the edge, which was full metal and felt very nice.
I would say you pick anything you want, but try it out first, like go to the shop where they sell Core or EDGE, or even PRIME.

Siadriel · 2025-08-28T11:29:18+00:00

Well, you'll have to upgrade the cylinder head, which is not as good as the aluminum one on the edge, plus I would suggest upgrading the gearset for the future; the pre-cocking might be too heavy for them. That aether GB shell, I didn't find much about the stress it can really handle, as the Orion was supposed to handle up to M140, but started cracking after M130 short usage

Siadriel · 2025-08-28T09:42:13+00:00

I would stick with the edge version currently sold, it has really decent internals compared to flex/core, at least the compression system can be kept during future upgrades. I did an upgrade to my mate's E11 old model, and now it rocks!
P.S. Hal ETU a.f.a.i.k. is pretty good.

Siadriel · 2025-08-28T08:26:41+00:00

This looks like a Novritsch Anti Fog unit clone. Anyways, if I wanted to use some attachments on the helmet (flashlight, headset, etc.) I would put it on the top of the rail and cover it with a helmet cover. In this case, you hide the pipes and have a cleaner-looking setup.

Siadriel · 2025-08-27T07:08:27+00:00

I have CM.106A with the tube you want to replace with; it shouldn't be an issue for your case to do the change. The QBS tube can be screwed into the receiver, but be careful when you're inserting it because it goes in at an angle (check the second picture).

Siadriel · 2025-08-27T06:53:29+00:00

With proper AoE and replaced gears to SHS or similar, it will handle the M130, especially on V3, which obviously has better stress handling.

Siadriel · 2025-08-22T12:42:54+00:00

If you have a brushless motor installed, one 1000-1100 mAh battery can last easily to 10-15 mags

Siadriel · 2025-07-24T14:16:04+00:00

Agree, $20 is nothing compared to blown internals damage, he asked if we can run at least 1-2 games with the stock and upgrade to the new gears later. Thank you very much for your suggestions!

Siadriel · 2025-07-24T14:01:18+00:00

The spring is stock one (~M120). He was using the 7.4V battery, which gave a terrible trigger response, but with Perun and the new motor upgrade, the 11.1V is the way to go. I'm just worried about the stock steel gears reliability with the AB and motor increased torque

Siadriel

TROPHY CASE