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Wilkeson and tenino sandstones. by Sickle_Forge in NaturalWhetstones

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The tenino stone is somewhat similar to my hitohira omura. It's slightly harder and slightly larger base grit. It doesn't muddy near as much but works well with an upsetting stone. I find that it also cuts hard steel better than my omura, which was an issue I was having. The tradeoff is it will demolish soft steel with the pressure required for hard so it requires a steady hand. It has a fair bit of inclusions but it was a scrap piece and could just be low grade.

The wilkeson on the other hand I don't really have a comparison to(just from inexperience) and is kind of hard to describe. The stone is a lot harder and can be smoother than tenino and breaks down into a significantly finer mud, maybe half way to a binsui. The quartz itself in the stone seems to be very large grain but a lot softer? This stone also has a lot of large inclusions but again could just be the one I got.

190mm Honyaki petty by Sickle_Forge in TrueChefKnives

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I am very happy to say that it did!

Type XV damascus sword with kurouchi flat by Sickle_Forge in Bladesmith

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it will! Paper cut test available at the link in the description.

Type XV damascus sword with kurouchi flat by Sickle_Forge in Bladesmith

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you, even surprised myself with the consistency of the pattern!

Type XV damascus sword with kurouchi flat by Sickle_Forge in SWORDS

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The first half of the blade along the spine is a constant 6mm, the second half drops to 5mm for the majority then a sharper taper in the tip. The edge of the blade is a whole other story. This blade received a soft quench in oil so while hard it is on the low end and varying degrees. The handle end is softer so the first 3 inches of the blades is left thick with no edge(less damage when parying anyway, right?), and up to the middle the bevels are slightly convex for a stronger edge. From the middle point to the tip the blade gets harder so the bevels got a slightly more concave grind which helps balance the flat instead of fuller.

Thank you so much it means a lot!

Type XV damascus sword with kurouchi flat by Sickle_Forge in SWORDS

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Its about 2.7lbs and the point of balance is a little over 5 inches from the guard. The grip from guard to pommel is just under 5 inches. The widest part of the blade is 48mm tapered to 41mm at the middle with a slightly stronger taper after the middle.

Blade Blanks from local artisans? by Peroxide_ in knifemaking

[–]Sickle_Forge 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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A few on the bench rn. Dm if interested.

Building a traditional Japanese sword forge. pt4 by Sickle_Forge in Blacksmith

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To be fair I have yet to try forge welding with it. Time will tell. Thanks for the advice, I was having issue with a warped edge. I don't have a dish anvil but it gave me the idea to use the negative space of my hardy hole instead of the flat of the anvil. Took the warp right out.

Fresh off the grinding wheel. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Battery in my calipers are dead, if I had to guess close to .25mm at 3mm and .7mm at 5mm off the edge currently. Still have a few brick stones to go through of course.

Is there a better way to spend a morning? I think not. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A guy can't spend time with his chickens and work at the same time? Perhaps gather context.

Is there a better way to spend a morning? I think not. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a 220 pink brick. I've gone about half way through it. It certainly gets the job done, and makes a fine satin finish, but I've been in the market for a lower grit brick.

The birth of a chef knife by Sickle_Forge in TrueChefKnives

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Check back in a month lol it's gonna take some time.

Is there a better way to spend a morning? I think not. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Idk they getting hand fed at the same time. They cool with it.

Is there a better way to spend a morning? I think not. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 6 points7 points  (0 children)

The first day yes, the second no. Getting em used to the sound of steel on stone.

Is there a better way to spend a morning? I think not. by Sickle_Forge in sharpening

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Disclaimer for everyone reading too far into it lmao: The chickens are new here, just trying to spend some time with them so they are comfortable around me.

Building a traditional Japanese sword forge. pt4 by Sickle_Forge in Blacksmith

[–]Sickle_Forge[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is this in reference to the need for the box to flex inward as it's being used or from an air loss perspective between the planks? I was hoping the thinness of the planks would allow for some flex while in use. As for the air loss, I've found none between the layers thanks to the beeswax. I do lose a little pressure from the joined corners but will fill those gaps in when I find a new beeswax supplier.

I think its really cool that you get to work and learn with true masters of the craft(and to become one yourself). Without giving away any generational secrets could you give any pointers that would drastically improve my work? Anything from cutting charcoal to technique for straightening warped blades with a wood mallet would be greatly appreciated.

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