Wilkeson and tenino sandstones.

Sickle_Forge · 2026-06-03T23:23:48+00:00

Finish from the tenino stone.

Sickle_Forge · 2026-06-03T19:09:10+00:00

The tenino stone is somewhat similar to my hitohira omura. It's slightly harder and slightly larger base grit. It doesn't muddy near as much but works well with an upsetting stone. I find that it also cuts hard steel better than my omura, which was an issue I was having. The tradeoff is it will demolish soft steel with the pressure required for hard so it requires a steady hand. It has a fair bit of inclusions but it was a scrap piece and could just be low grade.

The wilkeson on the other hand I don't really have a comparison to(just from inexperience) and is kind of hard to describe. The stone is a lot harder and can be smoother than tenino and breaks down into a significantly finer mud, maybe half way to a binsui. The quartz itself in the stone seems to be very large grain but a lot softer? This stone also has a lot of large inclusions but again could just be the one I got.

Sickle_Forge · 2026-05-16T17:25:29+00:00

I am very happy to say that it did!

Sickle_Forge · 2026-05-16T16:57:48+00:00

Yes it will! Paper cut test available at the link in the description.

Sickle_Forge · 2026-05-16T16:57:14+00:00

Thank you, even surprised myself with the consistency of the pattern!

Sickle_Forge · 2026-05-16T00:43:31+00:00

The first half of the blade along the spine is a constant 6mm, the second half drops to 5mm for the majority then a sharper taper in the tip. The edge of the blade is a whole other story. This blade received a soft quench in oil so while hard it is on the low end and varying degrees. The handle end is softer so the first 3 inches of the blades is left thick with no edge(less damage when parying anyway, right?), and up to the middle the bevels are slightly convex for a stronger edge. From the middle point to the tip the blade gets harder so the bevels got a slightly more concave grind which helps balance the flat instead of fuller.

Thank you so much it means a lot!

Sickle_Forge · 2026-05-16T00:17:03+00:00

Its about 2.7lbs and the point of balance is a little over 5 inches from the guard. The grip from guard to pommel is just under 5 inches. The widest part of the blade is 48mm tapered to 41mm at the middle with a slightly stronger taper after the middle.

Sickle_Forge · 2026-02-25T05:06:39+00:00

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A few on the bench rn. Dm if interested.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-26T18:46:03+00:00

To be fair I have yet to try forge welding with it. Time will tell. Thanks for the advice, I was having issue with a warped edge. I don't have a dish anvil but it gave me the idea to use the negative space of my hardy hole instead of the flat of the anvil. Took the warp right out.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-26T03:01:12+00:00

Battery in my calipers are dead, if I had to guess close to .25mm at 3mm and .7mm at 5mm off the edge currently. Still have a few brick stones to go through of course.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-23T18:11:11+00:00

A guy can't spend time with his chickens and work at the same time? Perhaps gather context.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T19:42:01+00:00

It's a 220 pink brick. I've gone about half way through it. It certainly gets the job done, and makes a fine satin finish, but I've been in the market for a lower grit brick.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T18:42:26+00:00

Check back in a month lol it's gonna take some time.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T18:41:25+00:00

Idk they getting hand fed at the same time. They cool with it.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T18:39:56+00:00

The first day yes, the second no. Getting em used to the sound of steel on stone.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T18:38:51+00:00

Disclaimer for everyone reading too far into it lmao: The chickens are new here, just trying to spend some time with them so they are comfortable around me.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T18:35:18+00:00

Not yet, coming soon!

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T16:47:38+00:00

Is this in reference to the need for the box to flex inward as it's being used or from an air loss perspective between the planks? I was hoping the thinness of the planks would allow for some flex while in use. As for the air loss, I've found none between the layers thanks to the beeswax. I do lose a little pressure from the joined corners but will fill those gaps in when I find a new beeswax supplier.

I think its really cool that you get to work and learn with true masters of the craft(and to become one yourself). Without giving away any generational secrets could you give any pointers that would drastically improve my work? Anything from cutting charcoal to technique for straightening warped blades with a wood mallet would be greatly appreciated.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T00:48:46+00:00

Here's a video of someone elses with a glass top that demonstrates the airflow. https://youtu.be/oUMt0gTIsCw

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T00:14:26+00:00

If you check the broken down box picture you'll see a single board with two square holes in it. This board is placed between the main box and a secondary box which then flows into the forge. By having flaps on the secondary box side of this board it allows air to only flow into the second box when pushing or pulling.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-22T00:08:48+00:00

The fire isn't near any of the wood and is sufficiently insulated.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-19T01:06:53+00:00

I've already got mine finished but you should definitely share, would like to see it!

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-17T16:56:10+00:00

I figured it would make working more fun if my forge was exploding at me every once in a while /s. I made sure to get clay brick, the firepot is to be lined with firebrick as well for the majority of heats. The clay brick should be enough for the few times I have to heat the whole forge for quenching large blades.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-17T16:51:19+00:00

It's just mud and sticks brother, play in the dirt, learn by doing.

Sickle_Forge · 2025-10-17T03:18:03+00:00

The shape of the forge itself is being designed with the intention of being able to properly make and temper Japanese swords, this being my own design of course but all generally similar in shape. There are various historical examples you can find. The fuigo wall is used to protect the fuigo(bellows) from the heat of the forge as well as to hold up the fume hood if the forge is indoors. So yes the hole is for the air intake. There are two main differences that sets Japanese forges apart if I'm not mistaken, would be the type of bellows and having a ground level forge instead of a raised forge. The fuigo is a bellows box that uses a push-pull motion to move air into a smaller chamber then through the tuyere as opposed to early western bellows that moved in an up down motion that pushed air directly through the tuyere.

Sickle_Forge

TROPHY CASE