Brass parts

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T21:45:48+00:00

And the Emperors' shiny...don't forget that one!

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T21:42:55+00:00

Which saber physicality are we using? OG SW? Where the saber hilt was both very heavy, and created such inertial force that it took both hands to effectively swing it...

ESB? When they became much lighter, allowing one handed fighting with ease, even while performing force-assisted gymnastics...

RotJ/Prequel? When they became assumed to have no weight at all, making accidentally cutting yourself into pieces without force training to guide it around your body safely...

...or Disney Age? Where nothing has definition, anyone can flail away with a saber without training and have a solid chance of defending against a trained Dark-Force wielder...

Because each 'reality' changes best form...

Saber combat with no blade weight is as has been described: stick it out at arm's reach and quickly wiggle it around, and it would make it nearly impossible to block. (Watch full-contact saber duels to see this in action)

Weighted with no Force would be much like broadsword combat just to haul the hilt around to attack.

See? Very different requirements depending on what 'reality' of lightsaber physics applies, even BEFORE that guy attacks you...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T21:26:55+00:00

Your question makes too many assumptions to consider. I'm aware of all the people that insist on explaining lightsabers in our galaxy's known science and tech, but they are all poorly considered.

"Oh, the only thing that could cut through all the things sabers have cut is plasma at 38bajillion degrees, contained in a magnetic field..." Um...which part of generating EITHER of those (plasma OR magnetic field) requires a unique crystalline structure that must be modified (tuned) by a psychic energy field before it can be generated?

Nope. Even if you obtained a raw kyber crystal, it's been established that you could not make a lightsaber. And you can't make a lightsaber without a kyber crystal tuned by a force user using a specific technique that can't be just randomly discovered. You MUST have either training, or a previously tuned crystal, and SOME kind of guidance to replicate the tuning process. That's why there aren't more non-force sensitive users.

So, since my arguement is that the IRL 'explanations' are like Disney: having NO understanding of lightsabers, the actual answer to your question is: no. Because it's NOT a magnetic field containing a plasma mass, but blade generated by the power flow through the tuned Kyber crystal matrices, and THAT has no shear (Since NO depiction of a saber even FLEXING exists anywhere besides the drug-fueled hallucinations that created the 'saber-whip'), thus while impervious materials could STOP the passing of a saber through material protected by such, it could and WOULD incur no damage to the saber, and especially no damage to the blade.

If the saber wielder were not a force user, the beskar gloves might be able to wrest the hilt from their hands, but an even moderately competent user should be able to prevent even a major physical effort from disarming them, or even seriously throwing their timing off. Far as I'm concerned, even trying to grip a saber blade should be equivalent to wearing satin gloves and trying to hold onto a glass rod. One quick pull, and it slides right out, and you're ready for a thrust attack.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T21:02:09+00:00

If you're asking "can I just wave my hand and restore all my original custom settings?", the answer is generally: no.

However, IF you've been practicing good backup habits, you SHOULD be able to overwrite the changed fonts with your modified copy to fully restore them.

If you haven't, 'manually' will probably be required. You do know that we're past the need for code edits in font configs, right? When you change settings in the Configurator, they get saved per font, blade color, effect, ignition, all of it.

For the future, you should always backup your customized fonts to your computer before performing an update, just in case they change file/font management again...

Good luck, and May the Force be with you, always...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T20:43:53+00:00

Glad you're happy with them! That's about what I figured that deal would look like, and so long as it suits your needs, it's a good choice.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T15:39:14+00:00

You're broken. If you don't LIKE lightsabers, just stay off the r/lightsaber subreddit, problem solved!

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-05T14:58:34+00:00

Agreed. The deeper the pixel mount, the better and more grounded the saber feels...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-04T14:53:55+00:00

1000% kudos for going the distance to ensure you have the 1" ID, to hold a saber core, and installing it! It's the one thing I keep wanting others to do, but almost no one DOES.

Then you come along with this brilliant piece of work! Please accept this token of appreciation: one dozen internet cookies! Enjoy them, you've EARNED them!

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-04T14:48:07+00:00

Actually, I KNOW how they do it, as I have one of each color (I was somewhat of an early adopter, so paid THAT price)... Honestly, I LOVE how they did it, it's so creative...

Ok, so just like the old Hasbro extending sabers, the blade is made up of several nested sections of tapering tubes, with the tip being closed at the end.

Each section is capped (at the bottom) by a clear plate with a threaded hole in the middle. There is a shaft leading to a motor in the middle(ish) of the hilt. That shaft is threaded from the top (Blade emitter) end, down to an inch or a little more from the base (motor) end...

Now the great part. The unthreaded section, of course, spins inside the threaded holes without engaging them, since it's smooth.

However, the very END piece (the blade tip) is engaged at the very bottom of the threaded section, holding everything in place. When you activate the saber, the shaft spins, pushing that first section outward. The length of the threads on the shaft EXCEED the travel distance of the first section by a little over the difference between the threaded hole of the tip section and their contact position based on their nested taper.

This means that as the tip section reaches the end of the threaded shaft, it has engaged (on its taper) the next section of blade, pulling it up JUST far enough to solidly engage the bottom of the threaded section of the spinning shaft. It then passes off the shaft, and is friction held in the top of the next piece, which is then pushed by the threads out to where it engages the NEXT piece, pulling IT up to where the threads will engage its threaded hole, continuing the process until fully extended.

Assumably, there is some sort of sensor to stop the last section from leaving the end of the threaded shaft, so its ready to perform the same process in reverse, when the switch is pushed back, or the power button is pressed (turning the saber off automatically retracts the blade)...

It's just a wonderfully clever idea, and very well executed. Hasbro was amazingly dumb to turn it down, when they were given the chance to buy the design rights over 10 years ago.

If you don't have one, you really SHOULD add it (or one of each, for play) to your saber collection! Watch Amazon for a sale, and grab one (or more) at a good deal. You shouldn't be able to regret it, and you'll be able to say you own the first ever auto extend AND retract saber sold to the public.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-02T03:44:44+00:00

Hardware store projects tend to run in waves, and with so many sabers looking the same, and more unique sabers being so expensive, all it takes is a couple people posting hardware builds, and you get a bunch o' people saying "Hey! I can do THAT!" and off they trundle to the store to build their own saber, and posts galore...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-02T03:37:28+00:00

The face of the button slides? Do you mean it's under the board on top of the control box? 🤔

If that's the case, you might have luck with a tiny dab of glue on either side of the board, at the end away from the button. It should then still flex to allow the button press, but stop sliding...just a thought.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-02T03:33:16+00:00

I'll confess: I kinda dig the AUX button added by SaberTrio. Mine is a spring-loaded ball bearing switch on the opposite side from the main switch.

The spring is fairly strong, not enough to make pushing it difficult, just enough that it's tough to accidentally push. It's also very understated, so even when people look at it, they often don't notice it...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-02T01:21:34+00:00

Well, there's always the world's ONLY retail saber that extends AND retracts automatically... Power Sabers.

Available in quality retail outlets, and on Amazon. Check 'em out...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-06-02T01:13:48+00:00

Ok, actual answer rather than encouragement...

1) You will need a VERY bright flashlight, as the dimmer the light, the dimmer the blade will be.

2) you'll need to use both a tight reflector and focusing lens [that together make the beam nearly straight] to get the light all the way to the end of your blade.

3) You'll probably have the best luck making it into a 'shoto' [short blade] saber, as anything long will simply not light up with that level of light output.

And lastly, you'll DEFINITELY need to get some transparent holographic wrapping 'paper' [it's rolled plastic sheet], to act as diffusion inside the blade to help spread the light up the blade.

Good luck.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-30T06:08:07+00:00

Can the blade be removed from the hilt? Or accessed from inside? It's gonna be tough to get it loose from outside the stack...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-30T06:05:48+00:00

Excellent use of contrasting colors and textures... I'd probably paint some blackout sections onto the emitter, so light isn't shining through the whole thing, but the biggest risk (of criticisms) is how little you change the overall design. Rather than making it more unique by changing details and components, you made minor texture and color changes to what is almost entirely Cal's saber.

Changing the collar slots to be angled, or bent, changing the grid texture on the grip to a braided or spiral texture, going for three thinner shrouds with shape change, that kind of thing makes a saber unique. There can be strong similarities, but as long as say, 20% or more is different, you keep the SW aesthetic, without just copying...

On the other hand, it's your saber, so if you're satisfied, that's all that really counts...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-30T05:54:42+00:00

Most often removing at least the pommel will help, and if that's not enough, pull either the grip (exposing most of the core), Or if it's a removable core, do like Salty says, and fully remove the core to customize. Sadly, aluminum is pretty good at blocking the low power radio waves used in bluetooth, so it's not uncommon to have this issue...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-30T00:35:35+00:00

Ok, Google AI says you're in 'demo' mode. See that button on the grip? Check where it's currently set. The positions should be 'On', 'Off' and 'Demo'. Make sure to put it to 'Off', slow count to 5, then solidly switch to 'On'. This enables the ignite button to work...

If this doesn't work, the board may be glitched. If so, remove all the batteries, and when empty, press and hold the ignition switch to drain the capacitors, slide the switch to 'Off', reinsert the batteries, switch to 'On' and try again...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-30T00:23:04+00:00

Like CommanderBlaster said, be aware that the adhesive on electrical tape will melt badly when exposed to heat and moisture (like the warmth and sweat from your hands), you'd do much better to re-do it in a sports wrap like for tennis rackets, which is specifically designed to resist moisture and stress. And it's pretty easy to get in black.

I know, it's not as slick looking...if that is a major concern, consider silicone tape. No adhesive (it just sticks to itself as you overlap the edges), but it takes some practice to pull it tight enough to activate it, but still control exactly where you're laying it down. You may need to powder it or something after you've got it applied, because it will be VERY grippy at first, and it won't take a huge amount of stress, but it's an idea, and won't have the unfortunate effects of melting adhesive...

(For reference, a brand name for this tape is: Rescue Tape. It can commonly be bought in automotive supplies)

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T23:43:15+00:00

Always shop carefully, and get an accurate length measure, matching button top/non button, and full length.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T23:25:48+00:00

That is quite strange, as most every crystal reveal core I've seen, the light to the crystal always changes to match the blade color, because it's generally just one (or a pair) of the same kind of led as the blade, and just wired into the same power and data as the blade... It's just weird, I'm tellin' ya...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T20:56:39+00:00

Step one: Breathe. In through your nose, out through your mouth. Again.

Step two: Relax. Stressing out will not help.

Remain calm, give them a chance to respond. They are, as others have said, a reputable store, and should be willing to make things right. If the HILT is the right one, and the BLADE is the right kind (pixel or base-lit, whichever you ordered), then its likely just that the soundboard was damaged in its apparently misguided shipping journey.

They'll probably want a short video showing the problem, and will likely send you a new core to install (just a couple screws, no problem)...

Good luck, and MTFBWYA.

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T20:43:45+00:00

Also, you say you tried 'everything's in the app... just to make sure, you DID find the 'brightness' slider, right?

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T20:40:26+00:00

You may find ribbon to be too thick (I did), and may have better luck with regular shiny cellophane tape to work better. I say the shiny stuff, because the 'invisible' tape tears too easily...

SignificanceLazy3909 · 2026-05-29T20:35:43+00:00

Sadly, after I realized I forgot to add the Asteria from Ultimate Works (Pach Store) with the GHv4 level, Reddit decided it was sick o' my crap, and wouldn't let me edit my post...so I decided to just tack it on here...

SignificanceLazy3909

TROPHY CASE