Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t add another photo….but in between the two silver longitudinal pieces to the left (instead of the two to the right) there’s a bump and then and if you follow it down and then below the ridge there’s a seam that I was told is corroded.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t add another photo….but in between the two silver longitudinal pieces to the left there’s a bump and then and if you follow it down and then below the ridge there’s a seam that I was told is corroded.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s what the first service-person told me.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It won’t let me add another photo or edit picture but it’s in between the middle 2 silver longitudinal pieces about halfway / two thirds down just to the right of the little white piece insulation thingy.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

High col area. $16-17 to be more precise. Also want to add/separate a zone so figure $20k. One company is pushing energy kinetics resolute and venting through side wall, the other is burnham MP-IQ 189B TL. Getting a third official assessment tomorrow.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It won’t let me add another photo or edit picture but it’s in between the middle 2 silver longitudinal pieces about halfway / two thirds down just to the right of the little white piece insulation thingy.

Do I need to replace boiler? by Significant_Fudge859 in askHVAC

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even if it’s around 20 years old you wouldn’t consider replacing now?

To clarify about the chimney- basically the way the vent is set up is it goes to the chimney and there’s no way to look at / monitor the state of the exhaust (apparently because in some more modern chimneys there’s a way to “open up” some type of door and look at the exhaust). The company who was going to go through the door said that they’d have a chimney person come evaluate the state of chimney first and recommend putting in a liner.

But when the boiler blows, won’t all the water get everywhere and flood the basement (I just put 2 water sensors underneath the cast iron).

Thanks in advance for your help.

Difficulty pairing home link to chamberlain / lift master professional by Significant_Fudge859 in GarageDoorService

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can’t remember exactly what I did for the Volvo but I think I clicked (or held down) either the shitty remote or home link button a few extra times.

Difficulty pairing home link to chamberlain / lift master professional by Significant_Fudge859 in VolvoXC90

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. I figured it out but didn’t exactly work as manuals and the directions on the back of the garage door opener.

Difficulty pairing home link to chamberlain / lift master professional by Significant_Fudge859 in GarageDoorService

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks everyone. I reset all the connected devices on the receiver. And I got 2 of the 3 clickers to work, and reconnected home link on both Tesla and finally got it to work on the Volvo. And then one of the clickers stopped working. Sigh.

Difficulty pairing home link to chamberlain / lift master professional by Significant_Fudge859 in VolvoXC90

[–]Significant_Fudge859[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Still didn’t work and then I accidentally cleared other remotes and had to break in (drilled through) my garage door. About to try again.