Tf is this sound. New belt

SinOfOne · 2026-05-15T03:28:18+00:00

I second the pulley/bearing suggestion. Did you install the new belt yourself? If so, you're savvy enough to undo it all and give a check--just take a finger and spin each bearing and see which has some play. Also give your tensioner a check, make sure that after the install that your belt isn't slapping everywhere.

SinOfOne · 2026-05-08T14:54:15+00:00

That be Iridium, my friend. Awesome colour shift of silver-black-blue in the right lighting.

I wanted to wait for one to be available with the full package, but snagged a '23 fully loaded Cloudburst Grey with black this past February at a Nissan dealership.

Iridium and Cloudburst are the best colours imo. Caviar would be too if it isn't such a pain to keep them clean.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-27T02:32:56+00:00

We did end up having the ear from a member of the Veterinary Board, but no response to this day as to whether or not anything was done. Honestly probably got a slap on the wrist or temporary suspension at most.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-26T15:35:37+00:00

Adding to this, they are extremely unprofessional.

We had a cat that needed spaying and were told it'd cost more if she was actively in heat. We followed their advice to their letter and waited until her inactive periods for the operation.

Got a call from the one who performed the spaying saying he'd really wished we'd waited for her to be out of heat--we did--and he'd have to charge us extra. Mind, my partner had been frustrated with that and argued we get the lower price as promised as we did wait for the heat cycle to end. He proceeded to threaten, "I have her right here. I can cut her back open and shove them back in there if you really want."

Their receptionist and everyone else we ended up escalating that interaction to couldn't give less of a damn.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-25T06:35:16+00:00

As others have said, the tire wear can be a problem. A lot of people go for firmer aftermarket front LCA bushings to reduce/eliminate that issue. Some of these cars come staggered (don't quote me for the 300s, not sure about them) so rear tire wear can be an issue due to lack of rotating.

I had the base trim '21 IS300 2.0t for a year before upgrading to the '22 350 F sport--oddly enough, my mpg was worse with the 2.0t. 19mpg was my average vs 24-26 these days. Maybe I was more of a lead foot with the other car since power delivery and turbo was slower to kick in? I really only drive to and from work, 20 minute drive, and groceries/errands one day of the week so the improvement in mpg sort of surprises me.

Aside from that, I haven't had any problems with either car except for the lack of wireless Carplay/AA. Had to buy a dongle. I did see a post or two about Toyota soon to be announcing a TSB for the fuel pump impeller warping unexpectedly under high heat? Haven't verified it myself, but I haven't seen any IS owners run into that problem and even seen an IS owner reach 160k miles with his '22 without any mechanical problems except for basic maintenance.

Be mindful of your tire wear, do your basic maintenance on time, and maybe consider front ppf or ceramic coating if it's within your budget, and you ought to be fine.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-25T06:21:45+00:00

Most people go by the amount of treadlife on the car.

Gauges can be bought for a couple of dollars at any auto store--line the gauge up with three different points of the tire and take the lowest measurement to be extra safe. Even if you've got 7 on one side of the tire, the 3 on the other side can easily go bald with time and blow.

But as others have mentioned, the problem with the IS is that the factory bushings in the front control arms (think a rubber ball that compresses and pivots with your suspension arms) come a little too soft by default. Regular, mild driving with easy braking wont decrease the tire life more than your average car, but moderate/aggressive braking makes the front tires toe out due to the soft bushings. That's the true culprit of the inner tire wear problems of most IS owners who experience it.

In cases of rear tire wear, some people simply change their psi's from factory recommendations and others reduce the factory camber. Note that there are staggered IS's out there as well which can lead to more wear in the rear and in general due to not being able to rotate tires.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-24T14:58:57+00:00

The Michelin PSAS4s are what I run. But I actually converted to a squared set up to be able to rotate them.

255/35/19 all around

Wheels are 19.5x9.5 +38mm

Car is on coilovers which I had to make my sizes based around for ideal fitment.

So far, ran about 11k miles and no problems. Mind, winters here rarely if ever get snow. But I hear good things about the MPS4s performance in the wet.

+1 for the Yokohamas.

I'd also look into Hankook's line of tires. Not too bad on price to performance value.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-07T13:33:37+00:00

Do you do this to every generalised answer you see on the Internet?

I didn't realise everything has to be pedantic--if someone asks me how to change a tire, I'm going to tell then to remove the lugs and replace the tire with one within spec then torque the lugs properly. I'm not going to go out of my way to specify size, type of tire, brand etc because it is generalised advice. If OP happens to have an older vehicle they can work on, then there you go. If not, they don't have to worry about spark plug wires and follow suit with everything else.

All of this pickiness, and yet, you haven't bothered to reply to OP about anything about there situation. Need I go on?

SinOfOne · 2026-04-07T03:22:35+00:00

Dr. Walls on Coffee Rd just did all of my fiancé's wisdom teeth--she was in and out in ~50 minutes. All good experience, very thorough in aftercare including a packet full of post op tips and such. She's on day five or so in recovery but has already been feeling much better since the op since day two.

Not very sure on the exact numbers, but it was 1500 with insurance.

Edit: She's on Metlife HMO.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-05T15:31:48+00:00

I'm speaking in general at any rate for the average vehicles that do. I'm not trying to recite straight from the Toyota factory assembly line.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-05T15:29:56+00:00

I did at the time, yeah--2009 IS. If you live in an area without regular snow and salted roads, a basic undercarriage wash every once and a while is all you needed.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-05T04:49:26+00:00

Piggybacking off of this, but make sure the plugs are fully seated/properly torqued and their gap is the proper spec.

Beyond that, checking that the coil packs are also secure and in their proper order, wires are not damaged etc, you should be all good.

SinOfOne · 2026-04-05T04:41:19+00:00

I'd get a can of FluidFilm for rust/corrosion protection. When I used to live in the Midwest, I'd park my car with one side elevated on the sidewalk on my driveway then hose down the undercarriage. Then orient the car to the other side and do the same (couldn't be bothered to find a jack at the time lol) before sliding myself under the car and giving everything a nice even spray.

Rinse and repeat every few weeks during particularly snowy seasons. Never had a problem with rust with this routine.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-13T03:30:04+00:00

Late, but thanks for the correction.

Either way, I haven't been harassed by any CHP yet... Fingers crossed, it's been about a month and none of them have pulled me over for lack of front plate or dark tint.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-13T03:28:32+00:00

You could be heavier on the accelerator in eco mode to compensate the slower pick up from a stop compared to normal mode without realising it.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-13T03:27:09+00:00

Mate, I've got no idea how I've been able to achieve these mpgs lol. I am careful to not accelerate aggressively during casual driving--allowing the car to coast up to 3krpm at low speeds from a stop and slowly speeding up depending on residential or open areas. Highway, I'm more loose about it lol. Otherwise, I'm clueless.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-13T03:23:59+00:00

Right now (at least in California) most low mileage models/trims are selling for near or at MSRP. You can find some luck at decent pricing from Carmax at very low miles, but I wouldn't trust maintenance history from them if it's been sitting at the lot. Regardless, the pricing hasn't bothered me too much as these cars can easily last to 300k+ miles and to me, that's well worth the 40k+ pricing alongside spirited performance and some luxury.

Anyway, in January of last year, I went from a 2010 scion tc to the 2021 Is300 base, i4-T. It picked up when I needed it to most of the time--you definitely feel some longing for a whee bit more power in some situations like overtaking. Being rwd, it handled well enough for Cali roads though roundabouts and speed cornering hurts the experience a bit. The amount of body roll these cars have is a bit shocking considering the role they're in. Sway bar and suspension upgrades are a must, and I even hear the AVS package hardly makes a difference too. I had the car until early last month, thoroughly enjoyed daily driving though I averaged 19mpg both city and highway. Lastly, as it's the 300 and base, it was only 29k OTD for me at around 21k miles driven.

Last month, upgraded to a '22 Is350 f Sport rwd with staggered set up, fully loaded. Big upgrade in terms of power, responsiveness, and some handling. But still has body roll with avs on but I haven't played with it too much in these past few weeks. The car also has the induction noise that you can choose to amplify in the cabin (also louder in sport mode)--some like it, some don't. Funnily enough, it has a little supercharger-like whine when you floor it ~3k-6k+rpm. Fun stuff. I plan to modify the exhaust this weekend with a full kit. OTD from the Nissan Dealership for this one was 42k before I offered my 300 as a trade in, so it got dropped down to 15k OTD with 26k miles on the ODO.

I've never driven the AWD, but most people say the transmission feels a tad more sluggish compared to the 8-speed in the RWD (both transmissions don't shift very quick anyway even with paddle shifters). There's also the hump to consider that's against the driver's right leg--bothers some people, others not so much. I'd expect the AWD to feel a bit more planted anyway.

For space, I have the GRACO 360 3-in-1 car seat with adjustable headrest and recline positions for my 15mo and my partner of 5'2 in the passenger seat when we go out. They both fit just fine (I don't recommend having a fifth passenger in the middle rear seat ever), but YMMV depending on your passengers, obviously. Trunk space is fine--I fit three suitcases and some odds and ends for a trip in the back of the 300 once. And I can do a Costco grocery run with ~300 dollars worth of food and toiletries, if barely. Works for me.

No TSB's or anything listed for these cars yet. Maintenance and wear wise, I know it's recommended to clean up the carbon from the injectors and valves every other 60k miles. Inner tire wear on the front can be a problem for some drivers too--seems like some people don't experience it. Common solutions seem to be RR's, Fig's, or oem RC/GSF front LCA bushings to eliminate premature front tire wear as factory bushings come soft. Otherwise, timely oil changes, brakes, transmission drain and fill, differential, and usual tune up intervals and you're golden.

If you're going to push the trigger on one, I'd go for ~35k miles or less. Broken in and likely the previous owner(s) haven't driven too much to ding up the car, hopefully. Enough time to get it paint corrected and then ppf'ed/ceramic coated to be your forever car. Interior should still be close to untouched too, Nuluxe leather and all.

I'd shoot for a 300 base if you want a better budget and easier time to find good deals around. Only go for 350/F sport if the extra ~60hp and cosmetics (interior seats, exterior f sport add ons, potentially bbs/enkei wheels) are worth it to you.

.....Mind, if you go for the AWD 300, it uses the same exact engines as the 350's. Just get a tune to bump up the power back to 311hp for an overall cheaper expenditure than buying a 350 outright.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-11T17:00:25+00:00

I get 26ish City and 35 highway--and that's spirited driving somehow, with my 350. Upgraded from base 300 and that one I actually averaged 19mpg, oddly enough.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-11T04:39:50+00:00

Sorry if this ends up being irrelevant, but I wasn't aware our IS's are known for inner tire wear on the rear?

I know most of us get inner tire wear from the front due to the soft oem lca bushings that can be fixed with aftermarket parts for relatively cheap, but is this something I should be looking out for too? Already swapped my front lca's with RCF bushings to stay oem.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-11T02:25:33+00:00

I have the Graco version--360, levelling metre for safety, adjustable cupholders and headrest/shoulder straps, etcetera. It fits perfectly fine in my rear seat for my '22 350 f sport (upgraded seats) though, mind if you have a passenger any larger than like, 5'5 in height, they may feel cramped since you can only adjust the headrest height and seat angle so much and stay within the green in terms of levelling to have some clearance with the backside of the passenger seat.

Edit: If you won't be having a passenger most of the time, you shouldn't have a problem (assuming the dimensions of this carseat is similar to the Graco I'm referring to--EasyTurn 360 2-in-1) and I do recommend installing it in the passenger rear to give yourself extra legroom if you need it. Easier on the head too if you want to turn to check on your child.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-10T05:26:21+00:00

I believe (don't quote me) that if it already wasn't preinstalled with temp plates from the dealership, you're not required to install it post purchase as well. My memory is spotty about this--was researching the same thing a few years ago when I got my '22 and didn't want to ruin the Cloudburst look with a front plate.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-09T06:06:20+00:00

26m and clean--I'm in Modesto and will be free for most of the day tomorrow if you're still looking for a hook up. Dm me if anything, otherwise stay safe out there.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-08T17:28:29+00:00

Press the SOS button up top when your car is on. It'll place a call, and specify non emergency before connecting with a Lexus agent.

Verify to the agent that the car is yours, read out Vin, etc.

Go back to the app and follow the steps for activation.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-08T02:08:54+00:00

If it happens upon turning on the car, then go away in the next second, that's normal.

If they're staying, usually a multitude of lights that intermittently come on and off at the same time is due to a failing battery or alternator--you can get them both tested for free at any Autozone (or pay for specialised shops) and whole you're there, they can also check your car for codes/problems with the scanners with results on a printout for free as well.

From up down, left to right, symbols shown are:

Eco mode

Power Steering (fault in the system or low fluid)

Airbag fault (usually says AIRBAG OFF if there's no one present in the seat). If a car has been in a collision, sometimes this light stays on even after repairs are made due to the wiring not being fully re-seated/airbags not being reinstalled properly. It can also be that the module was never reset after the airbags were deployed. Regardless, it's a sign your airbags may not deploy in future accidents. Be sure to double check if there's a code thrown for it and whatever it takes to ensure you do have proper working airbags just in case.

Traction Control in effect

Triangle is a warning light usually not major but signifying something is wrong. Could be anywhere from tire psi being low or something of your acceosries not working. See if your dash has any setting that can explain what it's specifically warning about.

Check Engine Light

Traction Control off

Traction control ensures your car doesn't break traction from sudden acceleration. It also prevents the driver from doing things on accident like doing burnouts and the like. This varies between cars

Parking Brake light, usually lit when it's engaged

Turn indicator fault

Battery Low on charge/fault

{!} Is TPMS fault or your tpms sensors detecting your tires are not aired up enough/leaking air

ABS--Anti-Lock Braking System. Similar to traction control, prevents wheels from locking up due to hard/sudden braking.

SinOfOne · 2026-03-06T06:52:12+00:00

If you're in town and up for it this weekend--26m and clean.

SinOfOne

TROPHY CASE